|
callie104
Jul 19, 2011, 8:05 AM
Post #1 of 108
(13579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 20, 2011
Posts: 7
|
Hi, I started climbing in January, and I've kind of become obsessed. I'm working v4's and 5's in the gym, leading 5.10's, and projecting 5.11's on top-rope. I'm incredibly impressed with myself because I couldn't do a single pull-up until a couple of months ago and never thought I would be able to climb. I realize this is a pretty broad question, but what can I do to get better and maybe even be sponsored one day? Is it easier for women to become sponsored? Are there any training techniques up for recommendation? Is there generally a time frame at which someone reaches their "peak," or is climbing something that one can continually improve at? Thanks for any and all friendly input. :)
|
|
|
|
|
gosharks
Jul 19, 2011, 8:10 AM
Post #2 of 108
(13575 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 7, 2004
Posts: 268
|
I've seen V8-10/5.13 women be "sponsored" climbers.
|
|
|
|
|
qwert
Jul 19, 2011, 12:08 PM
Post #3 of 108
(13519 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2004
Posts: 2394
|
In order to be sponsored you have to do/be one of the following, or better a combination thereof: a) climb really hard (Though it might feel different to you 5.10 is not hard. 5.10 and 5.11 is not even climbing, from a pro perspective …) b) climb dangerous (If the route is so gnarly that everyone had heard about it, but noone even tries it, and then a girls doing it, thats going to get you known (or dead)) c) climb sexy. Do you look good? do you look good while getting photographed on hard climbs? If so, that might lower the required grades a bit. also i heard climbing pron is the next big thing, so that might be your way to stardom So to sum it up: if you are not going to climb something like equilibrium clothed in nothing more than a thong, you are not going to get sponsored. You might be able to get some free shoes or some stuff from small regional competitions though. qwert
(This post was edited by qwert on Jul 19, 2011, 12:08 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
superchuffer
Jul 19, 2011, 12:18 PM
Post #4 of 108
(13508 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 9, 2011
Posts: 294
|
go to hueco rock ranch and sleep with everyone you can.
|
|
|
|
|
guangzhou
Jul 19, 2011, 12:37 PM
Post #5 of 108
(13494 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389
|
While climbing hard is one way to get sponsored in climbing, it's not the only way. What you need to answer to yourself and those you hope will sponsor you is what can you give the company that they will benefit from. yes, climbing hard is a good start, but not a pre-requisite. As the distributor of a few companies, I sponsor two athletes now, neither of which climb hard or dangerous, they are able to help me get the lines I represent noticed, so I threat them well. The third athlete I help support does climb hard and competes intentionally. To be honest, I am not getting much out of him and will most likely stop supporting him in the near future. A few companies have kept me in great gear for about a decade now. I don't climb hard, I avoid dangerous, and I am not what anyone would consider sexy or handsome.
|
|
|
|
|
rangerrob
Jul 19, 2011, 12:46 PM
Post #6 of 108
(13486 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 8, 2003
Posts: 641
|
Go climb outside first, before you have Walter Mitty visions of stardom and popularity. Chances are you'll hate real rock and move on to something else
|
|
|
|
|
ceebo
Jul 19, 2011, 12:48 PM
Post #7 of 108
(13486 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 9, 2009
Posts: 862
|
Even if you do get sponsored it is barely worth while. Back in the day ''soccer'' players use to get pay'd buttons.. but now, at least the British footballers are on shocking wages. Back then they done it purely for the love of the sport, much like us climbers now. Until climbing elevates to such a level of popularity the only real thing climbing will amount to is recognition and a few free items. Some luckier ones like the very elite may make a ''ok'' living so that they can just climb. But in comparison to what other elite sportsmen are making.. those elite climbers like sharma etc might as well be on welfare.
(This post was edited by ceebo on Jul 19, 2011, 12:48 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
kappydane
Jul 19, 2011, 2:11 PM
Post #8 of 108
(13420 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 22, 2004
Posts: 119
|
I know a few sponsored climbers and one of them told me something about sponsorship that I hadn't thought of. He said plenty of people climb better but they have big egos and attitude. Most sponsored climbers I know are really friendly and are ambassadors for their sport and products. They are friendly to everyone, regardless of ability and are, in general, nice to hang out with. This is a generality with some obvious exceptions but seems to apply to the ones I have met.
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Jul 19, 2011, 2:12 PM
Post #9 of 108
(13418 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
I can't believe nobody has mentioned sleeping with a climbing photographer yet. That seems to be one of the quickest paths to fame for average climbing women.
|
|
|
|
|
JoeHamilton
Jul 19, 2011, 2:23 PM
Post #10 of 108
(13410 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 16, 2011
Posts: 815
|
Great point brought up here ,. Friendly attitude ,and pushing product will go a long way . COMPETE ,have friends video and photogragh you .Make sure you are wearing the gear of the sponser you want . Dont send pics to say 5.10 shoes asking to be sponsered wearing something else .. YOU must first BELIEVE in THEIR PRODUCT ..Also another piont brought up is get outside more ,make sure you love climbing to a point of eating chalk for breakfast ,thinking of routes and moves in your head on lunch break at work , sleeping in campgrounds and your car to climb ....
|
|
|
|
|
edge
Jul 19, 2011, 2:49 PM
Post #11 of 108
(13382 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9120
|
camhead wrote: I can't believe nobody has mentioned sleeping with a climbing photographer yet. That seems to be one of the quickest paths to fame for average climbing women. Unfortunately, this is sad but true. You will have to begin by presenting him with your body of work, your "assets," if you will. Keep him abreast of your development, and don't be afraid to bare your soul for the camera. He might ask you penetrating questions, and want to pump you for detailed information, to which you must acquiesce. Beware of photogs from the following mags: Alpinist- This guy probably has a thick beard and hasn't showered for days. Climbing- This is a hard nut to crack, as they tend to run in groups of 5 or 6, all taking turns photographing and writing about each other. Urban Climber- This guy will just want to see your tits.
|
|
|
|
|
callie104
Jul 19, 2011, 3:23 PM
Post #12 of 108
(13350 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 20, 2011
Posts: 7
|
I've been on 20 or so sport climbing trips since I started 6 moths ago, including the RED. I also frequently boulder outside (I'm unsure of the "real" difficulty of the problems, however, because at Horse Pens and Moss Rock they are extremely sandbagged). In addition, I live in fucking Alabama and am STILL climbing outside, even when it's "too hot" for everyone else. Just because I'm a beginner doesn't mean I'm not outside. |
|
|
|
|
spikeddem
Jul 19, 2011, 3:35 PM
Post #13 of 108
(13334 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2007
Posts: 6319
|
guangzhou wrote: A few companies have kept me in great gear for about a decade now. I don't climb hard, I avoid dangerous, and I am not what anyone would consider sexy or handsome. Liar. We've seen your "my new climbing gym is being build" dance.
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Jul 19, 2011, 4:52 PM
Post #14 of 108
(13261 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
Be friendly and outgoing (but not obnoxiously so). There's this little kid in my gym who climbs pretty hard. Not like winning comps hard, but like "wow, did you see that little kid send that? Sweet!" hard. Well the other day the rep from MadRock was in the gym trying to get people to check out/buy his shoes. I happened to get in a conversation with the kid, and I thought - this is a good kid, he deserves a break. See he doesn't seem to have a lot of climbing buddies - his dad is always his belayer, and his dad doesn't climb. So I don't he's well connected. So I go over to the rep, and point out the kid, and tell the rep that the kid is the strongest kid in the gym, and he should totally give him a pair of free shoes. So for whatever reason he did, and it clearly made the kid feel good. Of course, now he has to wear crappy MadRock shoes, but whatever, that's the price of being a nice little kid. Wait, what was my point? Ah forget it. GO
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Jul 19, 2011, 5:42 PM
Post #15 of 108
(13212 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
You are a star. We will all see your name in lights, the sponsors will appear and give you that pair of shoes and the coveted tshirt that says 'team' and you will place 4th in a local comp that no one cares about. Now get back out there and send that .11 top rope project!
|
|
|
|
|
superchuffer
Jul 19, 2011, 6:23 PM
Post #16 of 108
(13163 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 9, 2011
Posts: 294
|
In reply to: Until climbing elevates to such a level of popularity the only real thing climbing will amount to is recognition and a few free items. wow! i agree with ceebo! but, if you really want to spray for gear, get off of here where people project 5.11, and go to mountainproject, where people do 5.12 or better yet, 8a.nu, which, as the name implies, people do 13s, even the women, most unsponsored.
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Jul 19, 2011, 6:32 PM
Post #17 of 108
(13156 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
callie104 wrote: Are there any training techniques up for recommendation? Is there generally a time frame at which someone reaches their "peak," or is climbing something that one can continually improve at? As for training, get yourself a copy of "The Self Coached Climber". There are a couple of interesting articles on this site, as well. The best is probably "Rockprodigy's guide to becoming a rockprodigy" (here).
|
|
|
|
|
Toast_in_the_Machine
Jul 19, 2011, 7:58 PM
Post #18 of 108
(13080 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 12, 2008
Posts: 5208
|
There was a thread here a while back from a Gabe Walker where he documented his progress from I'm a n00b to sponsored climber
|
|
|
|
|
jcd82
Jul 19, 2011, 8:14 PM
Post #19 of 108
(13065 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 20, 2010
Posts: 29
|
Props to you on your climbing. I'm at about the same spot (though no real sponsorship aspirations). In terms of training, for us girls it's really important to work the bigger muscles (which is more beneficial than working the fingers). I'm not sure why, that's just what I've heard. Obviously still work the fingers too :) Also, running is more important for girls. Once again...not sure why. Good luck! Hope you make it someday. Just keep loving the rock and I'm sure it'll come
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Jul 19, 2011, 8:43 PM
Post #20 of 108
(13031 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
superchuffer wrote: In reply to: Until climbing elevates to such a level of popularity the only real thing climbing will amount to is recognition and a few free items. wow! i agree with ceebo! but, if you really want to spray for gear, get off of here where people project 5.11, and go to mountainproject, where people do 5.12 or better yet, 8a.nu, which, as the name implies, people do 13s, even the women, most unsponsored. Citation needed.
|
|
|
|
|
wmfork
Jul 19, 2011, 9:05 PM
Post #21 of 108
(13004 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 4, 2006
Posts: 348
|
cracklover wrote: Of course, now he has to wear crappy MadRock shoes, but whatever, that's the price of being a nice little kid. Well Sasha wears MadRock and climbs circles around all of us... Anyway, here in Boulder, I see tons of strong climbers: some clearly aren't the cream of the crop but are sponsored, others easily have 2nd tier pro capability but just don't seem to give a shit about sponsorship.
|
|
|
|
|
kevthegerman
Jul 19, 2011, 9:13 PM
Post #22 of 108
(12994 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 25, 2008
Posts: 54
|
one word, bahahahahahahahaha! followed by, bahahahahahahaha!
|
|
|
|
|
ceebo
Jul 19, 2011, 10:42 PM
Post #24 of 108
(12906 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 9, 2009
Posts: 862
|
superchuffer wrote: In reply to: Until climbing elevates to such a level of popularity the only real thing climbing will amount to is recognition and a few free items. wow! i agree with ceebo! but, if you really want to spray for gear, get off of here where people project 5.11, and go to mountainproject, where people do 5.12 or better yet, 8a.nu, which, as the name implies, people do 13s, even the women, most unsponsored. Ok, double or squits. Do you look at the toilet roll after you've wiped your arse?.
|
|
|
|
|
Speed4TheNeed
Jul 19, 2011, 11:54 PM
Post #25 of 108
(12862 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 6, 2011
Posts: 51
|
To everyone making posts seriously asking about sponsorship opportunities: read more than you post. 3 posts means you should have read at least 3 things by now. That should have already been enough to know better.
|
|
|
|
|
|