You know... I am surprised by GMburns. I thought he would be in here spraying about his sicky mcgnarfuck bad ass aid climbs in the Moab area. I mean holy shit! The man led (most of) the first pitch of RIVER TOWER FFS!
My most serious aid climb was in an old quarry in Wisconsin. It was mid-winter and I was freezing and I had all the wrong gear and I finally had to rap off of a single piton wedged end-wise in a wide crack.
Aug 16, 2011, 4:53 AM
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Re: [potreroed] Most serious aid climb that you've done?
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potreroed wrote:
My most serious aid climb was in an old quarry in Wisconsin. It was mid-winter and I was freezing and I had all the wrong gear and I finally had to rap off of a single piton wedged end-wise in a wide crack.
Aug 20, 2011, 4:37 AM
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Re: [potreroed] Most serious aid climb that you've done?
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potreroed wrote:
My most serious aid climb was in an old quarry in Wisconsin. It was mid-winter and I was freezing and I had all the wrong gear and I finally had to rap off of a single piton wedged end-wise in a wide crack.
HA! Thats nothing. Awhile back I was doing a solo FA on El Cap when I got off route. I had to build an anchor from a single copperhead as I dropped my bolt kit and all my other heads. All I could find in the area was a narrow bottoming, flaring seam. I had to leap frog two sawed off RURPs up the crack for 130 feet with no other pro. Finally the crack ended and I had to do another 45 feet of runout hooking with only a single RURP between be and a 400 foot factor two fall on a single copperhead. Finally the hook options ended and I had to free climb to the next belay. The move off the hook involved a dyno from my aiders to a bottoming mono pocket covered in moss on the underside of a roof an a V12+ mantle over the roof with .13d slab climbing after that. I was runout a solid 250 feet before I hit the next belay. My 80m was just barely long enough. Good times.
(This post was edited by thenose on Aug 20, 2011, 4:41 AM)
Nov 6, 2011, 6:54 PM
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Re: [summerprophet] Most serious aid climb that you've done?
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tie between Lost in America and New Dawn. I think new dawn is A3 in the taco and Lost in America is A4, but they both felt spooky at spots. I put up a line in joshua tree that is totally stupid and futile but would probably be A4. I do hope to venture in to some of the more solid A4 on the cap my next trip (think sheep ranch or sea of dreams) but would have to agree with the dude who says the desert stuff looks harder.... f that. also some SAWEEET lines up here in montucky, but im not telling where.
Jan 2, 2012, 4:16 PM
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Re: [socalclimber] Most serious aid climb that you've done?
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Tons Of Junk in Josh. I probably got the second ascent. I doubt anyone would be stupid enough to attempt it again. Then a copperhead route out here that required replacing bad heads. Both routes were ground fall the whole way.
LOL, I solo'd that over Thanksgiving this year. Ripped out my first two placements when the C1 placement on the face apparently stood for crumbly.
(This post was edited by cobbledik on Jan 2, 2012, 4:20 PM)
Jan 2, 2012, 5:12 PM
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Re: [cobbledik] Most serious aid climb that you've done?
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cobbledik wrote:
socalclimber wrote:
Tons Of Junk in Josh. I probably got the second ascent. I doubt anyone would be stupid enough to attempt it again. Then a copperhead route out here that required replacing bad heads. Both routes were ground fall the whole way.
LOL, I solo'd that over Thanksgiving this year. Ripped out my first two placements when the C1 placement on the face apparently stood for crumbly.
That's too funny!!!! That route see's almost no traffic what so ever, and for good reasons. It's heads up for sure. How was the head up high? Still there? Any good?
Jan 2, 2012, 7:06 PM
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Re: [socalclimber] Most serious aid climb that you've done?
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The heads all seemed solid (haha punny!) but I was not pleased the entire time I was on the route. If I remember right (and based on my pics) the circle head up high has seen better days but the one above that looked fine.
Def the most Type 2 fun aid climb i've been on at J-Tree.
Although the next day I was almost able to get Rurp Romp clean save for one head placement to start everything out (I didn't have my Hawk modded hooks which may have allowed a bypass of the first head as well.) Requires groundfall hooking and handplaced beaks to get to the C1 corner. I included my visual notes in this post.
If anyone wants to have a go at Rurp Romp, I cleaned all the heads and deadheads with my butterknife so you can actually climb it now.
Jan 3, 2012, 12:40 AM
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Re: [socalclimber] Most serious aid climb that you've done?
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The cam hooks work surprisingly well on the rock in josh, as do hooks in general, the trick is to #1 be 130lbs and #2 not let the passing tourists hear you whimpering to yourself.
(This post was edited by cobbledik on Jan 3, 2012, 12:49 AM)
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