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pedro_sandchez
Aug 19, 2012, 8:57 PM
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Registered: Oct 30, 2007
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So this year I sat down and dedicated myself to following a periodized schedule to try to improve my climbing. It has been great and really helped me stay committed and psyched. Now I'm on the down swing of the peak/sending cycle. It feels good because I accomplished a lot in my peak phase, sent all of the projects I wanted to and even some others I didn't expect to. I'm now consistently sending V6 which is two whole grades up from where was in March.
So now I'm moving to the rest phase. I felt like my peak phase lasted a little longer than I expected because I was continuously ticking off a new letter grade every weekend for six weeks. however, this weekend I started feeling a significant drop off in power and endurance, signifying that it's time to start a rest cycle.
My question is this, for those of you who do periodized training, what exactly do you do during the rest phase? I do have a trip planned this coming weekend that will be four days at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. Sadly this trip wasn't time very well (in the midst of a rest phase) but it is when my friends could go so that's when we planned it. I'm thinking that I will rest all this week. Just have a fund weekend with at HCR, mostly doing easier routes. Then rest for another two weeks before starting a new HYP phase.
Aside from this trip during the rest phase, should I continue to climb/boulder easier grades less frequently or should I take this as an opportunity to cut out climbing for a couple of weeks and focus on cross training such as yoga and running?
Thanks for your help. Hoping my next periodized cycle yields similar gains as this one did! I have a long climbing trip to the RRG over Thanksgiving, so I'm going to time this cycle so I peak on that trip.
Adam
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climb4free
Aug 20, 2012, 2:36 PM
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Not sure if this will be right on track, but here is my experience:
First note: I have utilized the RockProdigy article in combination with SCC. I have also tweaked it considerably to fit my life.
I only do one dedicated cycle in the winter. Then during the remaining 3 quarters, I do modified cycles that balance out the ability to have decent performance days throughout the spring, summer, and fall. Because of my family schedule, I'd rather have a more gradual growth than steep peaks and valleys.
Therefore, the major rest cycles are positioned at the end of the fall season for 10-14 days and at the end of my winter training cycle for 14 days. In them I do zero climbing. A little work on the antagonist muscle groups and a little cardio, but mainly REST & RECUPERATION. I let my body heal as completely as possible.
When I ease into my winter cycle, I start with a couple weeks of just ARC and Technique workouts.
My "in season" workouts are a rotation similar to below(replace HYP with POW or 4x4, etc.):
Week 1 = OFF - HYP - OFF - Technique - OFF - HYP - OFF
Week 2 = Technique - OFF - HYP - ARC - OFF - OFF - "Send"
I then have a mid summer One WEEK Rest.
Results(may or may not be impressive): Onsight increased by 1 full # grade & Redpoint increased by 3 letter grades. My 3 hardest redpoints have only taken one working burn and then send, so I think I could redpoint harder if I tried.
Edited to add: Also, I have not had a single finger injury. My only injury was a rib head displaced from playing pick-up football.
Hope this helps, otherwise ignore 
(This post was edited by climb4free on Aug 20, 2012, 2:48 PM)
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shotwell
Aug 20, 2012, 2:44 PM
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Registered: Jan 6, 2009
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You might ask in the training forum on Mountain Project. The man himself posts there, and could likely best answer your question.
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pedro_sandchez
Aug 20, 2012, 6:42 PM
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Registered: Oct 30, 2007
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Thanks for the help.
This is exactly what I was looking for.
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