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badphish
Jul 1, 2003, 1:44 AM
Post #51 of 55
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Registered: Apr 2, 2003
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that also all depends on where your leadin'
i wouldn't try climbing a route a grade higher
if it was more than one pitch, but I would if it
were 40'ft. I suppose in the end it all depends
on the persons ability and confidence level.
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dirtineye
Jul 2, 2003, 7:29 PM
Post #52 of 55
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Registered: Mar 29, 2003
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I know at least one good sport climber that has gotten seriously hurt tradding, but I don't know any trad climbers that have gotten seriously hurt sport climbing.
Bouldering staically is the best strength training for trad for me. That and climbing harder trad routes, and a little weight work on the side.
Many people sport about 2 grades higher than they trad. I wonder why that is?
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alpnclmbr1
Jul 2, 2003, 9:05 PM
Post #53 of 55
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Registered: Dec 10, 2002
Posts: 3060
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This advice is geared towards climbing in California and granite.(and downclimbs that can be 5.6 or harder)
Don’t fall on trad until you have logged a lot of mileage. Why do you need to unless you are chasing numbers or in a hurry?
Routefinding is huge.
I am big on the pyramid scheme. Bunch of 5.7’s, then a bunch of 5.8, then a 5.9, then a bunch more 5.8’s. Do this for each climbing area you go to.
Avoid top roping, it encourages bad habits. I was always more scared on top rope, probably because I learned on lead. (didn’t have a choice)
I would avoid sport climbing at first because it encourages you to fall. (ditto toproping). Later on the opposite is true.
Placing good gear can make it alright to fall, but only if there is a place to place it.
Get good at knowing when it is safe to fall and when it isn’t.(good gear is a secondary issue here)
I wouldn’t start falling until your on 5.10 routes
Learn to rely on your climbing ability much more then your gear. (trusting your gear is besides the point)
Pink pointing on gear is a waste of time, placing gear on tr might be useful.
Be proficient at downclimbing, if you don’t see where your next gear is don’t do something you can’t reverse. (at some point you can bend this rule)
Don’t place psychological gear.
The aid climbing beta is a very good idea.
Don’t run it out at Indian Creek. Btw it is more sport than trad there
In Calif. harder is safer.
Ps dirtineye, I know of several trad climbers that got hurt because their partner didn’t know how to belay on a steep sport climb. Otherwise I would agree.
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dirtineye
Jul 2, 2003, 10:29 PM
Post #54 of 55
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Registered: Mar 29, 2003
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I'll second that notion that one should stay away from top roping when learning to lead. I never got a fair impression of what the lead woudl be like by top roping, but I did get a lot of worng impressions, so I quit doing it altogether.
Briefly, on Toprope, you have the use of both hands al lthe time. Not true in trad. Because you have the use of bothe hands almost all the time on TR, the climb wil lseem much easier that it will actually be on lead.
On Top Rope, gear placments tent to look better, probably cause you are not seriously looking them over. after all, you're on TP, breeezing by. Then, when you come back on lead, you find that hey, that one is rotten, this one is hollow, the other one is too flared. On lead, with my life at risk, I look at placements a lot more carefully.
LOL, I STINK at TR! I thought I was the world's worst TR artist! Learned on boulders, read everything I could find, avoided TR as much as possible, did three sport climbs, followed 8 trad routes, placed and hung on my own gear at ground level ad nauseum, started leading trad. If I ever get a tattoo, it will say, "Born to TRAD! " LOL.
Agree that pink pointing is a waste of time for learning trad. Might as well be sport climbing, it's safer than pink pointing too.
Yes yes, learn to downclimb, forget psychological pro. DOn't climb over bad gear.
APC!'s advice will work on sandstone in the south too for the most part.
I'd just add that, PLEASE stay off the blocky low angle beginner climbs if possible, and take the more vertical 5.6 and up with big holds and loads of pro. Falling on a beginner low angle choss pile hurts, falling on air doesn't hurt. It's easy to find mid-grade near verticalclimbs on southern sandstone.
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mewalrus
Jul 4, 2003, 12:49 AM
Post #55 of 55
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Registered: Jun 11, 2003
Posts: 132
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In reply to: Simply because you didn't onsite doesn't mean you didn't climb it. My style of working a route clearly falls within the rules of redpointing. I work a route, and when I'm ready: I climb up it on lead, with no falls, placing pro as I go and using no assistance from my gear. I would actually go as far as calling it a higher standard than most, because the route is always worked on lead, ground up. To flame someone for their climbing technique is immature, especially when their ethics are in line with the "standards." I'm sorry you're not open minded enough to accept alternative techniques, but for the love of God, keep your ignorance to yourself!
Ok sorry, you climbed it. To each their own. I could care less how you want to climb. Hell I might even do the same thing sometime, I practically have when climbing routes I have lead numerous times before.
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