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rrrADAM
Jul 7, 2003, 5:36 PM
Post #51 of 55
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Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553
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I disagree with "the leader must not fall" mentality unless it is X-Rated, as you will not push yourself. It should be instinct to push away from the rock when falling, if not, you are not falling safely.
X-Rated=Leader must not fall, or they will die.
R-Rated=Leader must not fall, or they will be seriously injured.
PG-Rated=Leader should not fall, as there is a potential for injury.
G-Rated=Fall if properly protected. (This includes landings like ledges and/or protusions.)
This however, is only my opinion.
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brutusofwyde
Jul 8, 2003, 12:40 AM
Post #52 of 55
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Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473
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In reply to: Uh, Chuck Pratt did the 5.10d Twilight Zone before they even had tube chocks, let alone cams. He flashed the crux basically free solo because he didn't have big enough pitons.
Well, actually he hung out on jams while someone ran down to the car to get a pin big enough to fit the crack. But then again, the cars could park a lot closer to the cliff, so the story is not as impressive as at first glance. I mean, most of us would feel perfectly comfortable hanging out in the middle of a 5.10d offwidth crux while someone ran to the car to get a piece, eh? :wink:
Brutus
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jon_dittman
Jul 10, 2003, 1:47 PM
Post #53 of 55
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Registered: Feb 3, 2003
Posts: 16
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Back in the old days when I were a nipper, we didn't have friends or cams. We used wooden wedges and stones with slings around them in cracks, before someone came up with the idea of using drilled out machine nuts tied with pieces of chord.
Still managed to climb up to 5.10c and never did me any harm! :wink:
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rhu
Jul 13, 2003, 10:47 PM
Post #54 of 55
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Registered: Apr 15, 2003
Posts: 242
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I would follow John Long's advice and learn how to place passive pro first and when you become solid doing that then you will understand how to place anything. It does not work the other way around. If someone as respected as he is says this is the case then I will accept it as truth.
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tradmanclimbs
Jul 13, 2003, 11:04 PM
Post #55 of 55
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Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599
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It is totaly possible to climb a whole bunch of stuff without cams but it is definatly easier and in many cases safer to have the cams. If you do buy cams , buy good ones as they will last at least 10 years. It's worth the extra dough to get the best.
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