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b_fost
Jul 30, 2003, 4:03 PM
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you know how there are 6 classes of climbing? 1-flat sidewalk 2-hiking trails 3-scramble 4 free- nontechnical 5 free-technical 6 aid or something like that? well, you know how there is a 5.15? could there be a 1.15? like, a sketchy sidewalk, with a bad landing? I was just wondering. Now, I'm going to go push the boundaries of sidewalk walking, with my FA of Flat, Featureless Pavement, a 3 pitch, very sketchy .15d. A 1.15d, that is.
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maculated
Jul 30, 2003, 4:06 PM
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Thank you. I have always rated my sidewalk strolls and I'm glad I'm not alone.
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bluelip
Jul 30, 2003, 4:09 PM
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Gets my vote for 'funniest post of the week' Mike Coles 'bluelip'
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timstich
Jul 30, 2003, 4:12 PM
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In reply to: Thank you. I have always rated my sidewalk strolls and I'm glad I'm not alone. The courtroom is brought to order. Judge Filching presiding. "The plaintiff will now describe for the court the slipping accident that is the basis of this lawsuit." "Yeah, well judge dude, I totally thought that sidewalk in front of Garbluck's was 1.3, but the greasy ooze from the cappuccino machine leaking out of that pipe made it 1.9 easy, maybe 2.0!!! Dude, I didn't have a chance."
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b_fost
Jul 30, 2003, 4:28 PM
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Whew....... I just got back from my FA, and boy was that tough. Here's how it goes: it's a 'stand up' start, then the first pitch is mainly walking on a flat sidewalk, then you get to the rebelay, then the second pitch is mainly walking on a flat sidewalk, then you hit the 2nd anchors, and finally the third pitch. The crux is about 13m out from the anchors, and the key to unlocking it is just to keep walking on a flat sidewalk. Once you conquer the crux, you just walk on a flat sidewalk till you hit the final anchors. Then you walk back down.
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ambler
Jul 30, 2003, 4:33 PM
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In reply to: you know how there are 6 classes of climbing? 1-flat sidewalk 2-hiking trails 3-scramble 4 free- nontechnical 5 free-technical 6 aid or something like that? well, you know how there is a 5.15? could there be a 1.15? like, a sketchy sidewalk, with a bad landing? I was just wondering. Now, I'm going to go push the boundaries of sidewalk walking, with my FA of Flat, Featureless Pavement, a 3 pitch, very sketchy .15d. A 1.15d, that is. Great idea, needs a little more work. Class I includes hiking trails too (Class 2 is like, scree and talus). So there definitely could be lots of room for 1.x ratings. For example, I think that many New England trails, which were established back in the traditional era before switchbacks were invented, and have since eroded deeply to expose snot-slick roots amid ball-bearing gravel, would rate much higher on the 1.x scale than those western sport trails that yuppies can jog down. But we need standards, comparison, consensus to set up the grades. You can't claim 1.15d except by statiing that it's clearly a grade harder than a consensus 1.15c that you've done, etc. As with the YDS, early development of the scale should focus on figuring out what 1.0 to 1.9 mean. A number scale for walking could make this a new arena for competition, prestige, general posing, and "Am I Any Good" posts to rc. Beginners, obsessed with the numbers, will trip and fall. Whose fault will that be? I don't think even the sketchiest sidewalk should get higher than 1.4, however. You probably learned to walk in a gym.
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b_fost
Jul 30, 2003, 4:45 PM
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ambler-- :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: I thought you were serious until that last sentence. :lol: good one
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data118
Jul 30, 2003, 4:45 PM
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Walking in NYC is at least a 3.15d
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sillymnkee
Jul 30, 2003, 5:11 PM
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I think this might just open a whole new world of problems. For example, I was walking with my friend the other day and we hit this stretch that was sketchy at best. My friend claimed it was 1.10b. I said, "are you crazy? Look at the stick right near the crux. The gum right where you need to backstep." I still think it was at least a 1.11c/d. Anyway we got in a huge fight about it and I don't think he wants to partner with me to conquer this 2.8 in the forest behind my house next weekend. And the worst part was when I stopped at his house yesterday and he was trimming the edges of his lawn with a weed whacker! I had to give him a ten minute lecture about how unethical that was. I know someone owned the house before he did so he obviously didn't have the FA. And I really think it altered the route because that overgrowth probably raised the route one or two grades. Savage!
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ninjaslut
Jul 30, 2003, 5:27 PM
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I love this entire thread. :wink: Congratualations, b_fost. P.S. No, I have nothing meaningful to contribute.
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sharpie
Jul 30, 2003, 5:32 PM
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Lot a sandbaggers in my neighborhood, most of the walks are "officially" rated around 1.9+, but anywhere else they would easily be 1.10d if not 1.11. But seriously, my grandpa's pretty hardcore, he has a walker and aids around 1.14...
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meataxe
Jul 30, 2003, 5:35 PM
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How do staircases fit into the Sierra scale? Would they be a 2 or a 3? Note, I'm talking about serious multi-pitch staircases... I'm on the 5th floor!!!!!
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mreardon
Jul 30, 2003, 5:41 PM
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My daughter pulled the ole' "step on a crack, break your mother's back" trick on me, making our normal 1.8 a whopping 1.12c!!! Luckily all these years of practicing the "I'm too drunk to handle my beer" waddle helped me out and I just missed the onsight by two moves! Little brat then tossed in a cartwheel in the middle of the second pitch of a horrendous 1.10c runout at the mall that prompted me to wipe out most of the window dressing at the Gap. All's well though, I did score big props by leading the overhanging "glass elevator" pitch while on only one foot, without a spot! Granted it was a bit contrived, but she's a gym rat afterall and still doesn't understand the nuances of real rock.
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rockpossum
Jul 30, 2003, 5:51 PM
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Finally the pioneering efforts of the ill fated yet historic expedition to climb the North face of Uxbridge Road might get some recognition on this site.
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xanx
Jul 30, 2003, 5:54 PM
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what about icy walks? We have a 1.4 or so that goes at around 1.14a/b in winter, depending on the ice and snow. In that ice storm a few years back (before the blizzard of '96 i think) it must have been about 1.14c!! or would these get ice grades?? lol i like the aid walking!
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sillymnkee
Jul 30, 2003, 5:58 PM
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In reply to: what about icy walks? We have a 1.4 or so that goes at around 1.14a/b in winter, depending on the ice and snow. In that ice storm a few years back (before the blizzard of '96 i think) it must have been about 1.14c!! or would these get ice grades?? Pfft. You're an ice walker. You're trying to compare apples and oranges. Why don't you just go put on your crampons and play. Let me know when it thaws and I'll get back to my "pure" walking.
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phitty
Jul 30, 2003, 6:09 PM
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What about all the cobblestone walkways of the east! Total sandbags! Be warned!
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adeptus
Jul 30, 2003, 6:32 PM
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It seems crazy to talk about gradings like 1.14 and even 1.15, I mean how many people has actually done that. When I'm drunk I'll usually French Free anything above 1.9 anyway and I don't care about stile: Street lights, fences, cars, other people whatever. Last New Year I soloed an amazing FA thou. About 10 pitches of 1.10 X,A0 in terrible verglas conditions (and I I was in even worse condition). I had forgotten to bring my ice tools and crampons to the party, so the way home turned into a fight for survival.
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b_fost
Jul 30, 2003, 6:55 PM
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Get this-- I was walking home, and I saw people pouring pavement for a new sidewalk!!!!111 talk about a breach of ethics. the new sidewalk will, however, give a good spot for future FAs, and possible bolting.
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christopherjay
Jul 30, 2003, 7:02 PM
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Ok, so whats better for FAing a 1.10c/d Mad Rocks, or 5.10's?
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sillymnkee
Jul 30, 2003, 7:04 PM
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In reply to: the new sidewalk will, however, give a good spot for future FAs, and possible bolting. Actually I believe proper procedure to claim a FA on a 1st class route is to actually write your name or initials or clever name like "Cubs rule!" into the route itself upon formation. Apparently one guy named Parks Commission claimed most of the FAs in my neighborhood.
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cthcrockclimber
Jul 30, 2003, 7:21 PM
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Does anybody know where I can get cams small enough for the cracks in my driveway?
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maculated
Jul 30, 2003, 7:24 PM
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I love you all. I love you.
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suzanica
Jul 30, 2003, 7:26 PM
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i've been working on a local sidewalk near my house for months. It's got a decent grade and the route is well-protected. I woke up one day and decided 'today is the day' to conquer the beast. I was leading my way confidentally up the walk when i got to the 1.12d crux i noticed that some thief has stolen all the gear i left on my project. I mean, I know a lot of people go there, but who would steal other people's things? And another question is, would you guys trust stuff you found on the sidewalk?
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christopherjay
Jul 30, 2003, 7:32 PM
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What's proper decent technique off the summit? do you Rap off, or downclimb? Or just search out a decent trail?
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