|
holmeslovesguinness
Jul 28, 2003, 10:28 PM
Post #26 of 45
(5367 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2002
Posts: 548
|
mmmm... cams.... i've got:
#4 Forged Friend
#3, 2, 1 BD Camalots
#4, 3 Trango TCU's
orange, yellow, and green Aliens
people rag on 'cheap' foreign made cams - my trangos are about 10 years old, Korean made, and have held up just as well as my #1 Camalot and #4 Friend (bought at the same time). that being said, i sure do like my camalots - i'll definitely pick up a .75 and will probably double up on the #1 and 2.
|
|
|
|
|
paganmonkeyboy
Jul 28, 2003, 10:37 PM
Post #27 of 45
(5367 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 30, 2003
Posts: 663
|
another vote for aliens up to the red or orange, metolius tcus 0 and 00, and DMM cams. forged friends seem pretty cool too - very light, cheaper than many, and they have that killer old school feel when you place one...
i like the aliens for the flexible stems, the metolius tcus go in tiny places and hold bomber, and the DMMs are lighter than almost anything else out there. some say they might walk a bit - i use long runners or clip a quickdraw to the sling and minimize the rope action, and they seem to work pretty well.
find a few people with different styles at the crags and ask them what they like and don't, maybe try a few out before you buy any....
|
|
|
|
|
joegoesup
Aug 6, 2003, 7:09 PM
Post #28 of 45
(5367 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 26, 2003
Posts: 197
|
I can't believe what you said can be correct, rock empire robots have worked well for me and they are uiaa certified.
|
|
|
|
|
fredo
Aug 28, 2003, 4:54 PM
Post #29 of 45
(5367 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2002
Posts: 501
|
Blue and Yellow Metolius, Aliens- Blue to Red, Camalots #0.5-#3. For doubles I have #1-#2 Camalots, #1.5-#1.74 WC Friends. Trango TCU #3-#4
|
|
|
|
|
jay_climbingchick
Aug 28, 2003, 7:36 PM
Post #30 of 45
(5367 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 64
|
My boyfriend and I like to use Black Diamond cams.
|
|
|
|
|
gyngve
Aug 28, 2003, 8:44 PM
Post #31 of 45
(5367 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 28, 2002
Posts: 155
|
In reply to: For the big stuff, #4 camalot, 4.5 camalot and #6 tech friend. The 6 friend is head and shoulders above the 5 camalot, for useful range, doesn't walk, and looks bad ass.
My biggest complaint about the #6 Friend is that you have to operate the trigger with just two fingers, which can be a little taxing. If you try to use more fingers, then the cams hit your fingers while retracting.
|
|
|
|
|
tenn_dawg
Aug 28, 2003, 8:45 PM
Post #32 of 45
(5367 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 14, 2002
Posts: 3045
|
What is this nonsence about rock empire cams?
For god's sake, there are more BS rumors, and speculation out there floating around.
In reply to: Wow, you climb on Rock Empire cams. Do you have a death wish? I'm Friends with somebody at Black Diamond who is in charge of pull testing gear. I had heard that those things fly apart when you fall on them and he didn't belive me. When he tested one it exploded at around 1200 lbs. Thats not very strong.
So, you're friends with someone who works at Black Diamond, and heard about them pull testing a Rock Empire cam? I'm sorry, but until I hear some more details, I'm calling BS. Get the person in charge of the testing to come in here, and tell up what really happened. I'm not interested in heresay.
To me, this just sounds like a case of misinformation, and speculation being spoken as truth.
I have lead thousands of feet using Rock Empire, and Trango cams for protection. I completely stand behind their saftey. They are not quite as nice as the Metolious or BD cams, but they cost a significant ammount less, and as far as I know, there has NEVER been an accident where a Rock Empire, or Trango cam failed, as a result structural failure.
In reply to: P.S. Now that you have been warned, I advise all owners of Czech cams to discontinue use of these cams before more deaths occur.
Care to back up this spray with a single example?
Oh, wait, you work in a gear shop. That explains your attitude.
Travis
|
|
|
|
|
andypro
Aug 28, 2003, 9:04 PM
Post #33 of 45
(5367 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 23, 2003
Posts: 1077
|
In reply to: people rag on 'cheap' foreign made cams - my trangos are about 10 years old, Korean made, and have held up just as well as my #1 Camalot and #4 Friend (bought at the same time). that being said, i sure do like my camalots - i'll definitely pick up a .75 and will probably double up on the #1 and 2.
I totally agree here. I love my Trango 3CU's. They're 8 or 9 years old and still as smooth as the day I got them (I keep then nice and clean and lubed etc.) My biggest gripe with them is the open part of the plastic on the bottom of the frame cables. When your hands are already sore from climbing hot sharp rock, and you go to shove one in with the base against your palm, it irritates the heck out of it, to say the least. Other than that, 5 thumbs up! Iv'e even taken a 20 footer on the red one (#2 I think) and the plastic didn't even deform, let alone break, and everyhting lived through rather well save a SMALL deformation on the center cam.
|
|
|
|
|
phugganut
Aug 28, 2003, 9:27 PM
Post #34 of 45
(5367 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 17, 2003
Posts: 648
|
In reply to: ...Any cam made in the czech republic should not be bought, they are all made in the same factory. This includes, Rock Empire Robots, Ocun Metal Jacks and Clog. I work at a climbing shop and can tell you all the beta on every cam...
If you work in a climbing shop and can give beta on any cam, then you should know that Clog Cams are made in England. Clog is a subsidiary of Wild Country, and WC makes high quality gear. They are just like the older tech friends that didn't have machined cam stops.
As for me, I love my WC tech friends. I have a full set from 00 thru 5 and they are awesome!!! They're cheaper than camalots, too.
|
|
|
|
|
deafclimber
Aug 28, 2003, 11:01 PM
Post #35 of 45
(5367 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 4, 2002
Posts: 653
|
i cant believe what u said, nunyoboy.
personally i have 2 sets of Rock Empire cams. they work just fine. my next cam set will be aliens.
|
|
|
|
|
crimsontime
Sep 16, 2003, 7:36 PM
Post #36 of 45
(5367 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 18, 2003
Posts: 18
|
Metolius TCU's for smallest sizes.
Aliens.
DMM\BD cams for larger sizes.
I'd avoid BD and get DMM as much as possible. BD's are too heavy, and DMM's are better than BD for aid climbing, if you ever get into that.
-That's my ideal, but actually I have a motley rack of Clogs, TCU's, BD's, Aliens, and DMM cams.
|
|
|
|
|
phugganut
Sep 19, 2003, 7:42 PM
Post #37 of 45
(5367 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 17, 2003
Posts: 648
|
Tech Friends. Definitely. 8)
|
|
|
|
|
soccer_fan
Sep 19, 2003, 8:11 PM
Post #38 of 45
(5367 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2003
Posts: 156
|
Camalots 1, 2, 3, 3.5, 4.5
WC Tech Friends 1.75, 2.5, 3.5, 4
Hex's for backups and for places that stuff that just takes a hex
Metolius curve nuts full set.
1 red tri-cam
Looking at getting either Aliens or Metolius TCU's for the smaller stuff, not sure which one yet.
|
|
|
|
|
jacobs
Sep 20, 2003, 2:52 PM
Post #39 of 45
(5367 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 26, 2003
Posts: 56
|
black alien,purple and blue tcu .5 friends to #4 friend.
|
|
|
|
|
dlintz
Sep 23, 2003, 12:51 AM
Post #40 of 45
(5367 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 9, 2002
Posts: 1982
|
I'm a big fan of Tech Friends in any size and Metolius in the smaller sizes.
Aliens.....(sigh) someday.
|
|
|
|
|
orangekyak
Sep 23, 2003, 1:04 AM
Post #41 of 45
(5367 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 1832
|
oh goody, a chance to spray about my rack ...
DMM 4cus #.5 to #4
Clog cam #2
WC Friends #2.5 and #3
BD Camalot #3
I typically carry
DMM .5
DMM.75
DMM 1
DMM 2 or Clog 2 (sometimes both)
WC 2.5
WC 3
BD 3
It's nice to have doubles. I made a conscious decision to go with the DMMs and WCs over the BDs because I'd rather carry more units than have more range per unit. Personal preference, I'd say.
My wish list includes the bottom two Metolius TCUs.
|
|
|
|
|
one900johnnyk
Sep 23, 2003, 10:37 AM
Post #42 of 45
(5367 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 23, 2002
Posts: 2381
|
trango flex... i don't know why....
|
|
|
|
|
kyhangdog
Sep 23, 2003, 12:10 PM
Post #43 of 45
(5367 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2001
Posts: 480
|
BD all the way... except for small sizes, then Metolius Power and TCUS. I also carry my old standard, Wired Bliss. Been placing the Bliss for ten years and they still rock.
|
|
|
|
|
kirkbrode
Sep 24, 2003, 5:30 AM
Post #44 of 45
(5367 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 22, 2003
Posts: 26
|
camalots are a dream to place. get all the sizes from 0.3 to 4.0. eventually get doubles in size 0.5 to 3. supplement with 00 through #2 TCU. consider doubles on #1 tcu. dont waist your time on small 4 cam units, get tcu in this range. dont get TCU bigger than #2; 0.5 camalot is best here. tied off medium-sized ridged-stem freinds are great for horizonals, especially if you fall on them a lot.
buy stoppers before you buy your first cam, no matter how cool the fancy cam gadgets seem. You are a tool bag if you spend $80 and end up with only two peices of pro.
|
|
|
|
|
skiorclimb
Sep 29, 2003, 5:41 AM
Post #45 of 45
(5367 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 16, 2003
Posts: 169
|
I have Trango flex cams(#s'1-8,2x#3), red + yellow Aliens, #1 camalot, red, gold, purple WC tech-friend.
The Trango flex cams work just fine up to #7(7+ 8 are to narrow for their size). However one draw back of these is that the cams aren't anodized. Picking out the right one from a crowded rack requires looking for the numbers on the stem. The color coding of the slings doesn't have enough contrast.
Aliens are expensive and look pretty fragile, however for small stuff they work like a charm. I am definitely picking up the green, blue, and another yellow when I can.
Camalots are heavy and expensive. They are smooth, have increased rang.
WC Tech-friends are the best value in my opinion. They are affordable, flexible, it is easy to pick out the right size with a quick glance. If I had it to do over I would get these instead of the Trango.
DMM makes a nice cam. I don't like the trigger set-up though. They are hard to retract when placed deep.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
