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climbsomething
Aug 19, 2004, 10:35 AM
Post #51 of 67
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In reply to: Just so you know, Akira was first climbed by Fred Rouhling. He did drill the holds, but he also happens to be 5'9" and has an ape index of +1.5. Funny, that's the same as me, height and ape, but I certainly don't climb the stuff he does, drilled or not. Just thought you'd like to know |
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davep
Aug 19, 2004, 1:34 PM
Post #52 of 67
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In reply to: Just so you know, Akira was first climbed by Fred Rouhling. He did drill the holds, but he also happens to be 5'9" and has an ape index of +1.5. Funny, that's the same as me, height and ape, but I certainly don't climb the stuff he does, drilled or not. Just thought you'd like to know
akira isn't chipped:
http://climbing.com/...rouhling/index3.html
P.S. there is now a 9b+, Chilam Balam by Bernabé Fernández.
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climbinjunkie
Aug 21, 2004, 7:24 PM
Post #53 of 67
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Rouhling said that he chipped Akira. Read the article in Climbing. When asked if Akira was natural he said, "Sure. Naturally drilled."
And as for Bernabe's Chilam Balam, that's pretty much up for debate. He's also known for drilling holds onto his routes, he's never climbed anything hard outside of his own routes, and as soon as he finished the route, he announced his retirement from hard sport climbing. I don't think he has the credentials for a believable claim of .15b
The Hubers both think he's full of crap, and I give them a lot more credit than Fernandez.
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c-money
Deleted
Aug 21, 2004, 7:54 PM
Post #54 of 67
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In reply to: Rouhling said that he chipped Akira. Read the article in Climbing. When asked if Akira was natural he said, "Sure. Naturally drilled."
From Climbing:
"He gave Akira 9b (5.15b); that grade would still make it the hardest section of rock climbing ever done by anyone, anywhere. And he claims that none of the holds was manufactured."
maybe you need to read the article in climbing again...
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superfox
Aug 21, 2004, 7:58 PM
Post #55 of 67
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In reply to: Rouhling said that he chipped Akira. Read the article in Climbing. When asked if Akira was natural he said, "Sure. Naturally drilled."
No, he was talking about his 14d, L’autre Côté du Ciel.
In reply to: Rouhling climbed L’autre Côté du Ciel in 1996 and feels that route, at hard 9a, is his second hardest. “Of course it is natural.” The glint in Rouhling’s eye gives away the punch line before he says it. “Naturally drilled.”
When Pete Ward saw one hold that looked chipped, he pointed it out to Rouhling, who then climbed the section, not using that hold. He said that he didn't remember it being there before.
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p_grandbois
Aug 21, 2004, 8:47 PM
Post #56 of 67
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Back to the original Q, it is simple, it is harder! It can be either the hardest route the best climber has climbed or one of the high 14's that have been put up with a Broken hold.
Simple, see
lets just get over it, who cares.
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ron_burgandy
Dec 8, 2004, 1:07 AM
Post #57 of 67
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To be perfectaly honest i am getting tired of all of the fred bashing- he is obviously a ridiculously good climber 9a, 9a+, or 9b it is still really hard. We should just leave it at he has set up some of the hardest routes in the world, proposed a grade for them and some have been confirmed some are still waiting, some are chipped some arent.
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petsfed
Dec 8, 2004, 1:44 AM
Post #58 of 67
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Seriously, when Fred was chipping (on his first two 9a routes) everybody else was too. It was only when he put up Akira and claimed 9b that he got castigated for chipping. Chipping was accepted, climbing harder than everybody else (when you chipped in the past) was not. He was the scapegoat for the entire European climbing community's indiscretions.
Chipped or not, the crux of L'Autre Cote du Ciel looks sick!
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alpinerock
Dec 20, 2004, 2:39 AM
Post #59 of 67
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In reply to: With the Font grade I would think that it would be pretty cool if the V scale considered those factors like how scary it is, but on rating a boulder problem everyone's got different oppinions on it like how scary it is.
everyones got lots of different opinions about every aspect of bouldering, whats your point?
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igcuesta
Jan 3, 2005, 4:05 PM
Post #60 of 67
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In reply to: Rouhling said that he chipped Akira. Read the article in Climbing. When asked if Akira was natural he said, "Sure. Naturally drilled." And as for Bernabe's Chilam Balam, that's pretty much up for debate. He's also known for drilling holds onto his routes, he's never climbed anything hard outside of his own routes, and as soon as he finished the route, he announced his retirement from hard sport climbing. I don't think he has the credentials for a believable claim of .15b The Hubers both think he's full of crap, and I give them a lot more credit than Fernandez.
Akira is worse than chipped. It actually has some original holds filled.
Has the Hubers tried the route? Why do they have more credit talking about a route they don't know? They should have gone better to the route and give it a try. Dani Andrada did it, and so I think he has ENOUGH CREDIT to give an opinion about Chilam Balam. By the way, when he was asked about his opinion on the grade of Chilam Balam he said that HE BELIVES that the route is hardly less than 9b.
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jcshaggy
Jan 17, 2005, 1:45 PM
Post #61 of 67
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I think Fred Rouhling is one cool climber. The whole ape-index thing is usually inaccurate and getting old.
Glad to hear he is climbing while everybody else wastes time talking about him.
I agree that some people should read the Climbing article again.
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frenchguy
Feb 6, 2005, 9:30 PM
Post #62 of 67
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Sorry for that, but I'm oblideg to tell you that "french"grade has been created in the middle of XIX for alpinism. So we were first!! and you speak in feet for cliff's high... remember me: what is the international unit of length? (indication: m). Have a good climb!
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lucas_timmer
Feb 14, 2005, 6:46 PM
Post #63 of 67
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In reply to: hehe, i agree with 512.. ..damn french, they wanna do everything different. |
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iamchristoph
Feb 14, 2005, 8:19 PM
Post #64 of 67
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In reply to: congo wrote: hehe, i agree with 512.. ..damn french, they wanna do everything different. No, those are the English with there Pounds,miles and driving left..
Don't forget the aussies and the japanese with thier driving left too. And us with our miles and pounds.
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r1skate
Jun 7, 2005, 4:40 PM
Post #65 of 67
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Ok let's take the current hardest grade 5.15. The hardest climbrs, Sharma, Graham, others were climbing hadr routes such as 5.14a. Then they got really good at the 5.14 routes and did harder routes and they said ok this is 5.14b because it is harder than the 5.14 route we hve been doing. Them some other climbers get good and come to the 5.14b and they can't quit do it, but they can do the 5.14. So they in effect verify that it is 5.14b because they can't climb it, but are able to climb 5.14, but just barely. Then climbers like Sharma and Graham get even better and climb routes that re harder than the hardest they did previously, so they push they grade up, but not by much. So they rate the new hard route, 5.14c . the other climbers get better and do they 5.14b, and then do the hardest routes, the 5.14c . This goes on until the gradegets to a point where just few climbers in the world, maybe less than a half dozen can do the routes on the leading edge of the difficutly scale. If you watch Autoroute and how Graham sends Dreamtime, you will see some really superb climbing. This problem is rated V15, but he makes it look so easy. So maybe he is able to climber harder than V15. The rating system are not absolutes they are only the best guide out there. I can on sight 5.10b on good day yet other times a 5.9 will give me fits. Then other days I will send 5.12 like nothing. It can be such relative sport.
So cimb on and don't worry about the grade so mush as how fun it is for you. Keep trying to roputes that are hrader than the last one you did. You will improve.
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ingrowing_whale
Jun 9, 2005, 7:00 PM
Post #66 of 67
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In reply to: In reply to: congo wrote: hehe, i agree with 512.. ..damn french, they wanna do everything different. No, those are the English with there Pounds,miles and driving left.. Don't forget the aussies and the japanese with thier driving left too. And us with our miles and pounds.
And don't forget the american with their unique climbing grades :D :D :D !!!
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azrockclimber
Jun 9, 2005, 7:48 PM
Post #67 of 67
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In reply to: I can on sight 5.10b on good day yet other times a 5.9 will give me fits. Then other days I will send 5.12 like nothing. It can be such relative sport. So cimb on and don't worry about the grade so mush as how fun it is for you. Keep trying to roputes that are hrader than the last one you did. You will improve.
hmm...interesting..you can onsight .10b on a good day....sometimes 5.9 kicks your ass....but other days you can send 5.12 with ease...I guess the "5.12's are easy days are really, really, really, good days..
hahahaha. what the F does that mean.
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