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Double fatality on El Cap?
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couchwarrior


Oct 21, 2004, 1:03 PM
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Re: Double fatality on El Cap? [In reply to]
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You know what, climbers are a group of people who come together when stuff like this happens. We talk about it, we argue about it, and we usually learn from it. This sh_t is important to us because we all know that we are lucky to not be in the same boat as those we are discussing.

What have you contributed with your post?

ZERO.

Get a life.

My original post was borne of my frustration of the corpse-kicking I see in here from time to time. I certainly welcome thoughtful discussion in the aftermath of such incidents but often see arrogance. This has been a largely useful and constructive thread and I apologize for generalizing based on a few previous experiences with runaway aholes who treat this forum like the late local lurid news.


brad84


Oct 21, 2004, 1:06 PM
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Re: japanese team die on el cap [In reply to]
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In reply to:
couchwarrior wrote:
I can see where this thread is going. Ghoulish voyeurism, followed by insulting deconstruction of the event (they were idiots in cotton t-shirts, etc) that eventually winds down when something even more ghoulish and titilating happens.

If I were to die climbing, I would prefer for other climbers to disect the situation evaluating every choice that was made. It is imperative to learn not only from your mistakes but from other's mistakes as well. That way the learning curce isnt as brutal, and hopefully wouldnt claim as many victims (possibly?).

On the same token I'm not proposing to be cold and harsh to those who have died; have respect, but learn from their mistakes as well.

Climb safe, see some of you one the rock this weekend.


hugepedro


Oct 21, 2004, 1:13 PM
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Re: Double fatality on El Cap? [In reply to]
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I apologize

Peace.


couchwarrior


Oct 21, 2004, 1:15 PM
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Re: japanese team die on el cap [In reply to]
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If I were to die climbing, I would prefer for other climbers to disect the situation evaluating every choice that was made. It is imperative to learn not only from your mistakes but from other's mistakes as well. That way the learning curce isnt as brutal, and hopefully wouldnt claim as many victims (possibly?).

On the same token I'm not proposing to be cold and harsh to those who have died; have respect, but learn from their mistakes as well.

Climb safe, see some of you one the rock this weekend.

As I said in my ealier post, I don't disagree with this. It just seems that often, after the causes of the event are revealed, the careful dissection of the event ends and something less useful begins. That was the issue I was trying to raise but I agree we can learn from their mistakes and each other without being harsh and mean-spirited towards the dead.


eastvillage


Oct 21, 2004, 2:15 PM
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Re: Double fatality on El Cap? [In reply to]
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In the Clint Eastwood film, "Unforgiven" the Schofield Kid, remarking to Eastwood's Bill Munney after killing two men, "I guess those two had it coming."
To which Eastwood replies: "We all got it coming, kid."


dingus


Oct 21, 2004, 2:37 PM
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Re: Double fatality on El Cap? [In reply to]
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The storm was well forecasted over a week out.

http://www.supertopo.com/...tml?m=44882#msg44882

DMT


dingus


Oct 21, 2004, 2:38 PM
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The storm was well forecasted over a week out.

http://www.supertopo.com/...tml?m=44882#msg44882

DMT


pheenixx


Oct 21, 2004, 5:06 PM
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In reply to:
The storm was well forecasted over a week out.

http://www.supertopo.com/...tml?m=44882#msg44882

ok dingus -- you musta known this was coming...

WHO THE HE*L GOES TO A CHAT FORUM TO CHECK THE WEATHER..!
Do you think the the visiting Japanese in Yosemite have access to this.?

Regarding the mentioned URL:
In reply to:
The weather is coming in next week with showers also..so that is a big consideration. Not sure which route would be safer in that respect.
Yea, and weather ALWAYS is coming...and going away before it gets to you sometimes. These people are also in Oregon. As mentioned farther down in the discussion (as I cannot check the URL for the weather forcasted from Oct. 14) the original poster of the forum (after checking the URL offered) says:
In reply to:
thanks, yeah all forcasts show a storm rolling through mid next week, but so far it doesn't look too serious....
enough said :robert:


dingus


Oct 21, 2004, 5:20 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
The storm was well forecasted over a week out.

http://www.supertopo.com/...tml?m=44882#msg44882

ok dingus -- you musta known this was coming...

WHO THE HE*L GOES TO A CHAT FORUM TO CHECK THE WEATHER..!
Do you think the the visiting Japanese in Yosemite have access to this.?

Do you think they give a tinkers damn now? The weather reports are readily available, on line directly from the NWS, in the park itself, directly from the NPS. They even write it on the chalk boards at the guard shacks at each enterance.

In reply to:
Regarding the mentioned URL:
In reply to:
The weather is coming in next week with showers also..so that is a big consideration. Not sure which route would be safer in that respect.
Yea, and weather ALWAYS is coming...and going away before it gets to you sometimes. These people are also in Oregon. As mentioned farther down in the discussion (as I cannot check the URL for the weather forcasted from Oct. 14) the original poster of the forum (after checking the URL offered) says:
In reply to:
thanks, yeah all forcasts show a storm rolling through mid next week, but so far it doesn't look too serious....
enough said :robert:

Well it looks a tad more serious from this perspective, wouldn't you say?

That original poster you quoted is believed to be one of the people on El Cap right now, or is among the ones pulled off. he's a good climber who felt his ability to deal with the weater up to the task. More power to him, certainly out of my league.

The point is this... the weather in this part of California is VERY PREDICTABLE. At least one of the climbers up there knew it was coming and decided to persist. Anyone who calls this a 'surprise storm' just wan't paying attention.

Anyone who gets on a wall without checking the extended weather report seems to be missing a critical part of the planning process. Language seems irrelevant, but what do I know?

DMT


iamthewallress


Oct 21, 2004, 5:26 PM
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Re: Double fatality on El Cap? [In reply to]
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Dingus...Consider Dave, the soloist who was rescued.

He was one (or 2?) pitch(es) from the top, overdue, and had been on the wall far longer than a weather report on the ground would be worth a damn. Probably 90%+ of his route was well protected, but just the top pitches usually aren't. I'd say that he was more unlucky than foolish, and that he weathered a storm that bad for that long says to me that he was decently prepared.

Yes, check the weather report, but sometimes, it's just grimmer and not that eaily within our ability to control these things.

Camp 6 gets extreme run off. Major waterfall. Even with bivy sacks the Japanese might have been in trouble in that kind of a watercourse. If they were on Camp 6 (the last bivy on the route) on Saturday when the storms hit, then it's possible that they intended to be off Saturday night, but did not go quite fast enough for that to happen. The weather reports that I saw earlier that week were not calling for rain until Sunday and sometimes when I looked, not till Monday, so yes they were shaving it close, but they weren't necessarily taking bigger risks that others of us have taken and gotten lucky taking.


dingus


Oct 21, 2004, 5:49 PM
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Re: Double fatality on El Cap? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I'd say that he was more unlucky than foolish, and that he weathered a storm that bad for that long says to me that he was decently prepared.

Yes, check the weather report, but sometimes, it's just grimmer and not that eaily within our ability to control these things.

I am not saying ANY of them are or were foolish. I'm not even commented on their desire to climb in the face of a storm.

I am simply stating that this storm was well forecasted and was by no means a surprise, thanks in part to your post over a week ago. And you and I know too, a climber gets on a wall this time of year, that climber takes her chances. Simple as that.

But you wall climbers tend to minimize when reporting the real objective hazards associated with your craft with a modest 'it wasn't really that big a deal.' And yet, as we tend to see each year, despite the free climbs and record zings up fixed routes, climbing El Cap IS a big deal and it can kill. There are many climbers on this site and others who would do well to remind themselves of this from time to time. People a lot harder than you or I have been freaking killed on El Cap due to weather.

In the Rockies or even the high Sierra to a lesser extent, unexpected weather really isn't that 'unexpected.' But on the front range of the Sierra, big Pacific pumpers are usually forecasted a week out. They just are.

DMT


ricardol


Oct 21, 2004, 6:12 PM
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dingus:

.. i think its the nature of the beast (big wall climbing) .. every down plays the risks while on the ground ..

-- ricardo


dingus


Oct 21, 2004, 6:13 PM
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dingus:

.. i think its the nature of the beast (big wall climbing) .. every down plays the risks while on the ground ..

-- ricardo

I'm sure its true Bro. I only add this... it is more the nature of the Beast in October than it is in August, at least for sure in the Sierra.

Cheers
DMT


iamthewallress


Oct 21, 2004, 6:18 PM
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And you and I know too, a climber gets on a wall this time of year, that climber takes her chances. Simple as that.

...And yet, as we tend to see each year, despite the free climbs and record zings up fixed routes, climbing El Cap IS a big deal and it can kill. There are many climbers on this site and others who would do well to remind themselves of this from time to time. People a lot harder than you or I have been freaking killed on El Cap due to weather.

10 years ago this month my bf and his gf at the time were on the Salathe. No bad weather was predicted when they headed up. When they arrived at the Block bivy, what they would soon learn was one of the worst watercourses on El Cap, they saw big clouds building. They also saw lots of people bring loads up the Heart lines, starting up the Freeblast, coming up the trail...so they assumed that the weather report must be clear. So, they fixed their lines. The rain started that night and didn't stop for 3 days. We talked about this a lot yesterday and this morning...What they might have done differently, and whether or not they'd have survived this storm. They were OK after 2 nights and a day w/ only bivy sacks (and sleeping bags and rain suits...but no tarp or fly), but he told me this morning that if it had been 4 nights like this storm, they would likely have died. Nothing makes my own heart stop like hearing the person that I love say in effect and in all honesty, "If luck had only been slightly less in our favor, you wouldn't have ever known me."

Why did I sit in my office crying yesterday? Because it might have been him 10 years ago. Because it might have been me this week. Because it might be my partner in a few weeks. Because it was the nice guy that I met on the Royal Arches last spring, and I didn't know if he was alive or dead. Because the Japanese people were just up there trying to live out a dream, same as any of us when we either decide to take the risk or forget how big of a risk we take.

I think, at least I hope, that most of us know that the risk involved with climbing El Cap, especially in October, is always substantial. But to the extent that we all agree as big wall climbers, that trying to climb during a window of good weather is a risk worth taking, I hate to call someone negligent who perhaps took a bit longer than expect and missed their window. I guess I think that too many of us aim for that window and are sucessful (or lucky) with it to get too down on the folks who didn't quite pull it off. I'm not saying that we should be casual when we go up there...I think that we should be prepared as we can be, and respectful when it doesn't work out for someone else.

The easy lesson is to only climb in July and August when not only are storms not predicted, but unpredicted storms are unlikely...or at a minimum only get on walls when no rain is predicted anywhere in the extended forcast. This isn't a useful lesson for a lot of us though, because a lot of us would rather risk possible rain over likely desiccation.

It can happen any time...Not just October-May. In my profile I have pics of us spending a day waiting out the rain on Camp 5 in August 2003. That rain was totally unpredicted, but luckily didn't last too long and wastn't very cold. I did get to see Camp 6 with my own eyes though. Horrendous. Really. It would have been seriously unpleasant to be up there in that relatively warm summer rain last August. Being up there in just bivy sacks (or less) in the storm that we just had, is something too rough for me to imagine.


mtnrsq


Oct 21, 2004, 6:21 PM
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Maybe Link or John can comment when things slow down.

From the park.

http://www.nps.gov/yose/news/2004/sard1020.htm

Hot off the press - all the missing folks have been located and are being brought out. It appears that everyone is O.K.


pheenixx


Oct 21, 2004, 6:34 PM
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I'm not going to banter with you dingus -- too much typing and I have other things to do today. :D I will leave it now as "I agree to disagree" and let others here bring up the slack.

Your obviously missing my points made and your comparing apples to oranges which we will never agree upon. Cheers ~ :lol: 8^)


pheenixx


Oct 21, 2004, 6:42 PM
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I'm sure its true Bro. I only add this... it is more the nature of the Beast in October than it is in August, at least for sure in the Sierra.

Yeah, I think I mentioned this in my prior post that you appeared to slam in it's entire-tee. Pick your words (and battles) more accurately and maybe YOU TOO can pre-di*k the weather...

aHAHAHAHAHAH ~ :lol: :lol: :lol:


dingus


Oct 21, 2004, 6:46 PM
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In reply to:
The easy lesson is to only climb in July and August when not only are storms not predicted, but unpredicted storms are unlikely...or at a minimum only get on walls when no rain is predicted anywhere in the extended forcast. This isn't a useful lesson for a lot of us though, because a lot of us would rather risk possible rain over likely desiccation.

See, you're doing it too, first acknowledging the risk, and in the very next paragraph minimizing it, calling it the 'easy lesson and the risk itself is chacterized merely as 'rain.'

October in the Sierra usually sees at least one big snow storm. Many visiting people don't seem to understand this is one of the snowiest ranges on the planet, with sow dumps that dwarf anything back east except perhaps Buffalo and environs.

Ask that last question with the risk clearly delineated...

Would you rather risk death through exposure by trying to climb through a 2 foot snow storm to get one more wall in this season? The main point, and really the only point I'm trying to make, is for folks to have some respect for California winter weather.

To those capable of dealing, I salute you.

DMT


ricardol


Oct 21, 2004, 6:47 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
I'm sure its true Bro. I only add this... it is more the nature of the Beast in October than it is in August, at least for sure in the Sierra.

Yeah, I think I mentioned this in my prior post that you appeared to slam in it's entire-tee. Pick your words (and battles) more accurately and maybe YOU TOO can pre-di*k the weather...

aHAHAHAHAHAH ~ :lol: :lol: :lol:

dude .. forget about what anyone says .. or doesn't say -- its a pretty fucked up thing that people died in a storm .. and thats all thats important right now --

not who posted what .. and who was right or wrong ..

like melissa .. this event has shocked me .. not only because i know one of the people who got rescued .. but because i've wondered if this had occurred 1 1/2 weeks ago what epic i would have been stuck in.

-- ricardo


clymber


Oct 21, 2004, 6:47 PM
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i have a friend that bailed off the nose...the 2 Japanese guys that died where the team ahead of them....


dingus


Oct 21, 2004, 6:50 PM
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[quote"pheenix"]Yeah, I think I mentioned this in my prior post that you appeared to slam in it's entire-tee. Pick your words (and battles) more accurately and maybe YOU TOO can pre-di*k the weather...

aHAHAHAHAHAH ~ :lol: :lol: :lol:
Actually, what you said in your prior post was:
In reply to:
I'm not going to banter with you dingus -- too much typing and I have other things to do today.

Too bad you can't keep your word. Predickshun... you will post again.

DMT


pheenixx


Oct 21, 2004, 6:53 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
I'm sure its true Bro. I only add this... it is more the nature of the Beast in October than it is in August, at least for sure in the Sierra.

Yeah, I think I mentioned this in my prior post that you appeared to slam in it's entire-tee. Pick your words (and battles) more accurately and maybe YOU TOO can pre-di*k the weather...

aHAHAHAHAHAH ~ :lol: :lol: :lol:

dude .. forget about what anyone says .. or doesn't say -- its a pretty f--- up thing that people died in a storm .. and thats all thats important right now --

not who posted what .. and who was right or wrong ..

like melissa .. this event has shocked me .. not only because i know one of the people who got rescued .. but because i've wondered if this had occurred 1 1/2 weeks ago what epic i would have been stuck in.

Dude -- I think you missed my ORIGINAL post. -- And like my prior post states, I'm not going to continue to banter anything on this forum...
:deadhorse:

Peace ~ :D


pheenixx


Oct 21, 2004, 6:59 PM
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[quote"pheenix"]Yeah, I think I mentioned this in my prior post that you appeared to slam in it's entire-tee. Pick your words (and battles) more accurately and maybe YOU TOO can pre-di*k the weather...

aHAHAHAHAHAH ~ :lol: :lol: :lol:

Actually, what you said in your prior post was:
In reply to:
I'm not going to banter with you dingus -- too much typing and I have other things to do today.

Too bad you can't keep your word. Predickshun... you will post again
Didn;t want to dissapoint you din-gee... :lol:

[spray] You just left yourself too WIDE open on that one line and I couldn't resist to help you put your foot into your own mouth... :P

aHAHAHAHAHA ~ Prediction -- you may or MAY NOT post again.

Whatever :deadhorse: Later ~


iamthewallress


Oct 21, 2004, 7:26 PM
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Dingus, I was using "easy" in a tongue and cheek way. I certainly hope that you don't interpret my post as saying that we all should climb in October...more just a recognition of the fact that many of us will. I agree with many of your points, but just feel less cut-and-dry about some of it.

If it give any more perspective to the whole "unpredicted October storms can be viscious" lesson, here's a copy of the incident report from the rescues on October 4, 1994.

In reply to:
94-598 - Yosemite (California) - Multiple Rescues


In the early morning hours of October 4th, the park was hit by an unpredicted wet storm in which Yosemite Valley received approximately two inches of rain over a 24 hour period. Since fall is the peak of the big wall climbing season in Yosemite, there were many parties on El Capitan, and several were signalling for rescue by early afternoon. Because of the bad weather, helicopters were unable to fly. A ground approach to the top of El Capitan was accordingly begun that afternoon. Approximately 40 people and a string of mules were used to haul equipment over the eight miles of trail to the summit of El Cap in a continuous downpour. When it got dark, the rain turned to snow above the 7,000-foot level. It snowed most of the night, and the entire team spent an extremely unpleasant wet and cold night. About half a foot of snow fell in the area. The precipitation stopped by morning, permitting team members to set up a lowering operation at the top of the Nose. Rescuers were lowered 600 feet to Camp Six on the Nose route. Nine stranded climbers from four countries, who spoke three different languages, were squeezed on a ledge which is considered crowded with three people on it. Four of them were in early stages of hypothermia. With the assistance of rescuers, all nine ascended the ropes to the top. While the group from the Nose was ascending, a party of two Americans on the Salathé Wall route signaled that they also needed to be rescued. As a rescuer was being lowered the 700 feet to them, a third party, comprised of a Norwegian and an Englishman, yelled from their position on the Sunkist route that they could not make it through another night. They were hanging in a porta-ledge which was in a small waterfall and their gear was completely soaked. After NPS rescuers reached them and the weather improved, all 13 victims ascended the fixed ropes to the top under their own power and were eventually flown off by helicopter. Several were transferred to the Yosemite clinic for treatment of cold injuries to their hands and feet. All gear and personnel were flown off the following day. [YOSE, 10/11]


dingus


Oct 21, 2004, 7:55 PM
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I certainly hope that you don't interpret my post as saying that we all should climb in October...more just a recognition of the fact that many of us will. I agree with many of your points, but just feel less cut-and-dry about some of it.

Yup I did understand. I don't disagree with you either. But the fact that there are surprise storms doesn't mean its a waste of time checking the weather reports for the predicted ones. Clearly you feel the same.

Personally, I don't ever want to know what it's like to ride out a snow storm like this high on El Cap. Period. I don't want to know if I am tough enough and good enough to survive. I DO NOT WANT TO *KNOW.*

I suggest a good many prospective wall climbers would feel the same way... if they actually gave it its due consideration.

I haven't said one ill word about the hard asses that are suffering though this storm, other than to suggest that I do not want to be among them, ever.

Cheers
DMT

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