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scottface
Nov 4, 2004, 4:13 PM
Post #26 of 36
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Stover: Like it cause it's local
Gunks: Luv it!
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mingus
Nov 4, 2004, 4:56 PM
Post #27 of 36
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In reply to: In reply to: is there any ice there pete I was wondering the same thing. Under the right conditions, I think there might be, but I am not certain.
I always thought the Long Chimney would make a good mixed or possibly fully iced route on very rare occasions.
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roclimb
Nov 4, 2004, 5:33 PM
Post #28 of 36
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Reigle/kintnersvelle I think is the best spot for ice near stover.
If you live near Philly Stover is certainly worth a visit. I prefer the nearby clif called "the Edge". I lthink the ribbed overhanging sandstone there much better than a few miles away at Stover.
Just my opinion though, I'm sure some would disagree.
~rob :D
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cjsimpso
Sep 13, 2006, 3:45 PM
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I know this is an old thread, but I thought'd Id add my $0.02. First, the rock is actually Argolyte, which I don't know much about other than that it is rare. It is definitely the slickest rock I've ever been on, but that doens't mean it isn't good for climbing. And some of the bolted rotues (Welcome to Stover, Tales from the Crypt, Deans list, to name a few) are very solid, albeit not amusement-park bolted like some of the premier places (Rumney?) Of course, my experience in general is very limited, especially on the sharp end, but I'd definitely agree that Stover is at least worth a first trip.
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wiggum
Sep 13, 2006, 5:12 PM
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That is a good way to put it cjsimpso. However, I have a little different way of looking at Stover....You either hate it because of the amount of posion ivy covering great routes, or because the rock is so slick that shoes are almost useless, etc. Or you love Stover because it makes you be so percise with your foot placement, and really works your upper body. That is just my $0.02.
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wiggum
Sep 13, 2006, 5:14 PM
Post #31 of 36
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That is a good way to put it cjsimpso. However, I have a little different way of looking at Stover....You either hate it because of the amount of posion ivy covering great routes, or because the rock is so slick that shoes are almost useless, etc. Or you love Stover because it makes you be so percise with your foot placement, and really works your upper body. That is just my $0.02.
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timh
Sep 13, 2006, 5:40 PM
Post #32 of 36
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Stover also has the distinction of being one of the few places were some of the routes have actually gotten longer, due to erosion.
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tomcat
Sep 15, 2006, 6:34 PM
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Tomcat here.Mingus and I are old buddies,we cut our teeth there at Stover,and along with some other buds developed a lot of routes there. I find it comical that people would not lead there at Stover,there are many good,challenging routes there,with decent protection.It's true,it's not the Gunks,not many places are,and if you plan on only climbing gunk quality rock you won't get very far.
Stover has some great leads for moderate leaders.Airy route to Hummingbird is safe and goes over a pretty big overhang for a 5.4.
Neaderthal was the cliff classic back in the day,both pitches of that are totally safe.
Route Two is another good 5.4 lead.
Tango,better yet Tango Superdirect has great climbing.
Tales From the Crypt,I'm biased,the middle pitch is admittedly choss,but the last part on the arete with nice exposure is primo 5.6. We put that line up sans any bolts,now there are two.
Friable Alternative coupled with Rattlesnake's second pitch is pretty decent.
Hawk's Neck,the route just left of Hawk's Nest,is nice.5.9
Riff-Raff eliminate is good too.5.9
At the edge, the initial nice dihedral is Fruition,5.8,and takes good gear.
Around behind that buttress is Shattered,on the left in the corner,5.9+,and on the right is Flattered,also good.All led on FA.
Behind the Great Wall,yeah we led that on nuts,is a great route that traverses out over space,the Rotwand. The rock on that is as good as English Grit. We left some pins in that.5.9.
Leading at the Edge isn't for everyone,it takes stamina to place pro often enough to stay off the deck. But if you learn to lead at these cliffs,you are all set for all but the stoutest places.
I have climbed throughout the East,the West at many places,and abroad. The rock is as good as much of the desert Southwest,not the creek of course. Point is though,I learned more about alpine climbing there than anywhere I ever climbed,including Cannon. Yep,there is some loose rock,you have to climb with your on board computer working all the time,distributing your weight,you can't just yard on stuff. It's not all 'G' rated.
But it's all good....
Ice sometimes forms on the weeping wall between CRC and New Generation.Modern day climbers might fire that,tough to get any pro in it though. The ice climbing at Kintnersville,now they call it the Narrows is primo and stood me in good stead when I moved to N.H.
And Mingus is right,in winter it can be very sweet in the Gorge.Polished rock,you bet,but Stoney Middleton is worse.
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NJ_Climber
Nov 10, 2008, 3:07 PM
Post #34 of 36
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Registered: Oct 10, 2008
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I live in NJ and it takes me about 1 1/2 hours to get to Stover. With that in mind, I drive to Stover at least once a week. The rock is fun, challenging and top ropes are easy to set. (Most popular routes are bolted with chains.)
I would be disappointed if I had to drive over 3 hours to get here especially if you are in the Northeast since the Gunks are so close plus if you are further south just hit up New River Gorge or Seneca.
But if you are close and within 2 hours driving, Go. You'll have a great time.
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coolcat83
Nov 10, 2008, 4:00 PM
Post #35 of 36
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Registered: Jan 27, 2007
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i've top roped at stover a couple times. it's slick and challenging with overhangs. as for leading, i haven't done it there, but most of the placements I've seen were slick and often flaring so just keep it in mind. other than that it's a great place to go if it's not far from you, especially when it's a little cooler out because the cliff heats up like an oven reflecting the sun.
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lunchbag
Nov 10, 2008, 5:13 PM
Post #36 of 36
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Registered: Dec 19, 2007
Posts: 11
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Ditto regarding Tomcat's post. There are plenty of worthwhile leads as noted with fair to good protection. Neanderthal is a perfect example of a decent route with good gear, although the crux is no give me. I believe that many leaders are intimidated by the slickness of the rock, thus the negative responses. If you are solid at placing gear and a strong climber most of the mentioned routes are not a problem.
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