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enjoimx
Nov 24, 2004, 7:41 AM
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Im doing a small report on Lynn Hill. I cant find out definitevely (spell?) if the nose has been repeated free. Does anyone know if someone has repeated the all free ascent of the nose? (Scott Burke?) Thanx for any info. Also, does anyone know of a video that contains a section on Lynn Hill?
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alpnclmbr1
Nov 24, 2004, 7:55 AM
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It hasn't been repeated. Burke top roped one pitch.
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enjoimx
Nov 24, 2004, 7:58 AM
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Thank you for that info. Now does anyone know of a Lynn Hill video Part? Thanks again.
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shock
Nov 24, 2004, 11:30 AM
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theres a video on petzl.com with Lynn Hill in it. Its the ultimate route 04 one.
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overlord
Nov 24, 2004, 11:39 AM
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i second the "not yet repeated". belive me, if someone repeated it, all climbing wourld wouldve know. it would be bigger than realization, mandala and dreamtime combined.
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tisar
Nov 24, 2004, 12:33 PM
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What about Steph Davis? She did free El Cap but I'm not sure if it was the nose. Just read an article on that a couple of months ago and forgot about the details :oops: . - Daniel
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tradnomad
Nov 24, 2004, 1:24 PM
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In reply to: Also, does anyone know of a video that contains a section on Lynn Hill? They made a video of Lynn's climb of the Nose, called "Free the Nose" surprisingly enough. :)
In reply to: What about Steph Davis? She did free El Cap but I'm not sure if it was the nose. Just read an article on that a couple of months ago and forgot about the details Nope. She climbed FreeRider (variation on the Salathe wall). http://www.climbing.com/news/stephfreelcap/ TN edited to fix quote
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roambb1
Nov 24, 2004, 2:28 PM
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There is another video by The North Face that includes Hill along with other women for FA in Madagascar. I forgot the name, but it shouldn't be too hard to find. BB
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gunksgoer
Nov 24, 2004, 2:34 PM
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steph davis freed Freerider i believe. Although this is a great accomplushment, its definately not the nose. If she (or anyone else) had freed the nose leading all the pitches, it would have been in every single climbing related magazine for months. Maybe even the news...
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irockclimbtoo
Nov 24, 2004, 7:08 PM
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ab
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mtengaio
Nov 24, 2004, 7:18 PM
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Steph Davis FREED freerider, not free-soloed it. It's on the cover of the latest edition of Climbing.
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jdouble
Nov 24, 2004, 7:18 PM
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In reply to: Also, does anyone know of a video that contains a section on Lynn Hill? Range of Light has a great interview with Lynn Hill in one of their vid's. Forget which one......should not be hard to find. Also, pick up her book if you have not, great read IMHO.
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gnarled_hands
Nov 24, 2004, 7:52 PM
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I have had this discussion before with some people. It seems there are so many people out there that climb hard you'd think it would have been repeated. I think it all comes down to finger size (and burl factor).
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phile
Nov 24, 2004, 7:57 PM
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Someone told me they thought that a hold had broken since Hill's ascent, making it harder now. Is this true? He wasn't sure. phile
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jdouble
Nov 24, 2004, 8:14 PM
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In reply to: I have had this discussion before with some people. It seems there are so many people out there that climb hard you'd think it would have been repeated. I think it all comes down to finger size (and burl factor). And ego?
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runitout20
Nov 24, 2004, 8:19 PM
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The Range of Light video is called Big Stone. It has some footage of Lynn on the route and some commentary about the route, what she brought in terms of gear, etc.
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climbhoser
Nov 24, 2004, 9:02 PM
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You spanks...Burke DID free it, it WAS a big deal. It was the most seminal moment of his life, and it only took him 285 days! Why it isn't all that big of deal is because it took him 285 days to Lynn Hill's 1. Look it up!
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iamthewallress
Nov 24, 2004, 9:31 PM
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In reply to: Someone told me they thought that a hold had broken since Hill's ascent, making it harder now. Is this true? He wasn't sure. phile I doubt a hold broke on one of the crux pitches. The cruxes don't really have 'holds' in the first place. Even if one broke, they'd still be desperate.
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melekzek
Nov 24, 2004, 9:43 PM
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In reply to: Someone told me they thought that a hold had broken since Hill's ascent, making it harder now. one single hold in 3000 feet of climbing? and that prevented anybody repeating it? lol i think people (tommy, steph, alex, yuri, et al.) prefer to make a new free accent on the big stone, instead of repeating what is already done. nose is done in the best style possible, until somebody onsights it of course.
In reply to: because it took him 285 days to Lynn Hill's 1 burke worked the route for 285 days, but i am not sure how long his (almost) free ascent took. Lynn also worked the route, and not climbed it her first day on the route.
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iamthewallress
Nov 24, 2004, 9:49 PM
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In reply to: i think people (tommy, steph, alex, yuri, et al.) prefer to make a new free accent on the big stone, instead of repeating what is already done. nose is done in the best style possible, until somebody onsights it of course. What new route has steph done on El Cap? I actually don't know of any of her FFA's or FA's in Yosemite (not to say that there aren't any, of course. I just haven't heard about them.) I always see her name associated with hard repeats. Yuji hasn't done new routes either, although he has improved upon the style of several. Both Alex and Tommy have repeated other's routes plenty. I'm always surprised at how rare it is that someone actually suggests that the reason that the Nose doesn't see the repeat ascents of other El Cap routes is that it's wicked hard and that Lynn Hill is in a league of her own. People have scoped it, including Yuji (and probably tommy, steph, alex, and lots of et al. too...)
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noell
Nov 24, 2004, 9:53 PM
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I was curious about this Scott Burke. I didn't know anyone else had come close to doing The Great Roof or the Changing Corners pitch. Techically, he didn't lead all the pitches, so he didn't repeat Lynn's feat. Still, amazing. If you look Scott up on Google, you can find this article: To the grindstone, Scott Burk makes second free ascent of The Nose "I mutated my body for this route," says Scott Burk of El Cap's The Nose, the most compelling line in Yosemite. Burk, 35, from Berkeley, California, has not ventured onto another route since January 1996. But he has put in his time on The Nose: 261 days to be precise. Almost certainly the longest time any person has ever spent on one route. If Burk didn't have the ability to make all the moves the day he began, he sure does now. His ascent came after a lot more work than Lynn Hill's of September 1993 (Hill took about eight days in all). But, says Burk, who had great praise for Hill, "This is not about comparing myself. The Nose is one of the ultimate challenges in American free climbing, one of the most beautiful routes in the world." Even after all his preparation, not everything went right for Burk, who, supported by Eric Holm, Boulos Ayad, and Nick Ginn, began his successful attempt last November on the inauspicious date of Friday the 13th. Over the 12 days it took for the ground-to-summit free ascent, conditions were terrible. About a fifth of the route (700 feet of climbing) was dripping wet. At The Great Roof, one of the wettest pitches, Burk, exhausted, but with no time for an overnight rest, made do with a toprope ascent after his father (watching from the meadow below) alerted him by cell phone to a large impending storm. Much talk has surrounded The Nose since Hill's historic first free ascent, and her subsequent one-day free ascent. Many strong climbers have been shut down by the two hardest pitches. Some people have even suggested that it was only because of Hill's small fingers that she and no others had succeeded on the Great Roof pitch, an arching pin-scarred crack under a huge overhang. But Burk had little trouble with the Great Roof when he climbed it in dry conditions during an earlier recconnaisance. "It's balance is what it is," he said, describing the five or six hard moves requiring double-hand pressure above his head on the ceiling. It was the original 29th pitch, often known as the Changing Corners or the Houdini pitch, about 2500 feet up, that was the killer. Burk is the only climber other than Hill to have succeeded on this pitch, too, and he swears the section to be 5.14b, explaining excitedly: "There are no holds!" "5.14b? No way!" said Hill, when asked to comment. But Burk says other climbers can vouch for the difficulty, citing Leo Houlding, who reportedly tried the pitch and agreed with the rating around the same time that he flashed several hard pitches on El Cap's El Niqo (see Hot Flashes No. 182 and 183). Burk, who is about 5-foot-9, climbed the Changing Corners using friction, extreme body tension, and technique honed through a hundred days of effort: "On one of the knee-bars you can rip your stomach muscles out," he said. While others pursued their own goals in and around the Valley, Burk has remained single-minded about his. "Even as a young kid I wanted to spider-man up that line," recalls Burk referring to The Nose, and his desire, without knowing anything about climbing style, to free climb up. Burk admits that toproping one pitch gave the ascent an unfortunate blemish: "It was not in the style in which I can sit in my rocking chair later and look back on it, totally happy," he stated. He then added: "When it's dry, I'm going to go back and do it in a day. I can't settle for anything less."
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slobmonster
Nov 24, 2004, 9:55 PM
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There's always room for a FFDTA, or "First Free Dry Tool Ascent"
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phile
Nov 24, 2004, 10:27 PM
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Cool article about Scott. His dad, Leo, rapped down from the top with supplies on at least one occasion during the months he was up there--talk about a cool father-son activity! Seems like such a neat bonding thing to do. Very interesting about the hand-size issue. I'd always heard that that was why only Lynn had made it go, but it sounds like that's a myth. phile
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tradmanclimbs
Nov 24, 2004, 11:10 PM
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Scott burke did in fact TOP ROPE the roof pitch. that is not an FA and everybody knows it. he called it a small blemish but the climbing world does not accept a top rope as an FA. (with the exception of the fly :roll) I guess if you stick clip the first 2 bolts on a 20 ft. rout you can still pretend you didn't top rope it.
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phatcat
Nov 24, 2004, 11:43 PM
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In reply to: There's always room for a FFDTA, or "First Free Dry Tool Ascent" would stray bullet holes that were meant for the dry-tooler also be considered chipping?? :lol:
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