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enjoimx


Nov 24, 2004, 7:41 AM
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Nose free repeat?
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Im doing a small report on Lynn Hill. I cant find out definitevely (spell?) if the nose has been repeated free. Does anyone know if someone has repeated the all free ascent of the nose? (Scott Burke?)

Thanx for any info.

Also, does anyone know of a video that contains a section on Lynn Hill?


alpnclmbr1


Nov 24, 2004, 7:55 AM
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It hasn't been repeated.

Burke top roped one pitch.


enjoimx


Nov 24, 2004, 7:58 AM
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Thank you for that info.

Now does anyone know of a Lynn Hill video Part?

Thanks again.


shock


Nov 24, 2004, 11:30 AM
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theres a video on petzl.com with Lynn Hill in it. Its the ultimate route 04 one.


overlord


Nov 24, 2004, 11:39 AM
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i second the "not yet repeated".

belive me, if someone repeated it, all climbing wourld wouldve know. it would be bigger than realization, mandala and dreamtime combined.


Partner tisar


Nov 24, 2004, 12:33 PM
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What about Steph Davis? She did free El Cap but I'm not sure if it was the nose. Just read an article on that a couple of months ago and forgot about the details :oops: .

- Daniel


tradnomad


Nov 24, 2004, 1:24 PM
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In reply to:
Also, does anyone know of a video that contains a section on Lynn Hill?

They made a video of Lynn's climb of the Nose, called "Free the Nose" surprisingly enough. :)

In reply to:
What about Steph Davis? She did free El Cap but I'm not sure if it was the nose. Just read an article on that a couple of months ago and forgot about the details

Nope. She climbed FreeRider (variation on the Salathe wall). http://www.climbing.com/news/stephfreelcap/

TN

edited to fix quote


roambb1


Nov 24, 2004, 2:28 PM
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There is another video by The North Face that includes Hill along with other women for FA in Madagascar. I forgot the name, but it shouldn't be too hard to find.
BB


Partner gunksgoer


Nov 24, 2004, 2:34 PM
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steph davis freed Freerider i believe. Although this is a great accomplushment, its definately not the nose. If she (or anyone else) had freed the nose leading all the pitches, it would have been in every single climbing related magazine for months. Maybe even the news...


irockclimbtoo


Nov 24, 2004, 7:08 PM
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ab


mtengaio


Nov 24, 2004, 7:18 PM
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Steph Davis FREED freerider, not free-soloed it. It's on the cover of the latest edition of Climbing.


jdouble


Nov 24, 2004, 7:18 PM
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In reply to:
Also, does anyone know of a video that contains a section on Lynn Hill?

Range of Light has a great interview with Lynn Hill in one of their vid's. Forget which one......should not be hard to find. Also, pick up her book if you have not, great read IMHO.


gnarled_hands


Nov 24, 2004, 7:52 PM
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I have had this discussion before with some people. It seems there are so many people out there that climb hard you'd think it would have been repeated. I think it all comes down to finger size (and burl factor).


phile


Nov 24, 2004, 7:57 PM
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Someone told me they thought that a hold had broken since Hill's ascent, making it harder now. Is this true? He wasn't sure.

phile


jdouble


Nov 24, 2004, 8:14 PM
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In reply to:
I have had this discussion before with some people. It seems there are so many people out there that climb hard you'd think it would have been repeated. I think it all comes down to finger size (and burl factor).

And ego?


runitout20


Nov 24, 2004, 8:19 PM
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The Range of Light video is called Big Stone. It has some footage of Lynn on the route and some commentary about the route, what she brought in terms of gear, etc.


climbhoser


Nov 24, 2004, 9:02 PM
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You spanks...Burke DID free it, it WAS a big deal. It was the most seminal moment of his life, and it only took him 285 days!

Why it isn't all that big of deal is because it took him 285 days to Lynn Hill's 1. Look it up!


iamthewallress


Nov 24, 2004, 9:31 PM
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In reply to:
Someone told me they thought that a hold had broken since Hill's ascent, making it harder now. Is this true? He wasn't sure.

phile

I doubt a hold broke on one of the crux pitches. The cruxes don't really have 'holds' in the first place. Even if one broke, they'd still be desperate.


melekzek


Nov 24, 2004, 9:43 PM
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In reply to:
Someone told me they thought that a hold had broken since Hill's ascent, making it harder now.

one single hold in 3000 feet of climbing? and that prevented anybody repeating it? lol

i think people (tommy, steph, alex, yuri, et al.) prefer to make a new free accent on the big stone, instead of repeating what is already done. nose is done in the best style possible, until somebody onsights it of course.

In reply to:
because it took him 285 days to Lynn Hill's 1

burke worked the route for 285 days, but i am not sure how long his (almost) free ascent took. Lynn also worked the route, and not climbed it her first day on the route.


iamthewallress


Nov 24, 2004, 9:49 PM
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In reply to:
i think people (tommy, steph, alex, yuri, et al.) prefer to make a new free accent on the big stone, instead of repeating what is already done. nose is done in the best style possible, until somebody onsights it of course.

What new route has steph done on El Cap? I actually don't know of any of her FFA's or FA's in Yosemite (not to say that there aren't any, of course. I just haven't heard about them.) I always see her name associated with hard repeats.

Yuji hasn't done new routes either, although he has improved upon the style of several.

Both Alex and Tommy have repeated other's routes plenty.

I'm always surprised at how rare it is that someone actually suggests that the reason that the Nose doesn't see the repeat ascents of other El Cap routes is that it's wicked hard and that Lynn Hill is in a league of her own. People have scoped it, including Yuji (and probably tommy, steph, alex, and lots of et al. too...)


noell


Nov 24, 2004, 9:53 PM
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I was curious about this Scott Burke. I didn't know anyone else had come close to doing The Great Roof or the Changing Corners pitch. Techically, he didn't lead all the pitches, so he didn't repeat Lynn's feat. Still, amazing. If you look Scott up on Google, you can find this article:

To the grindstone, Scott Burk makes second
free ascent of The Nose

"I mutated my body for this route," says
Scott Burk of El Cap's The Nose, the most
compelling line in Yosemite. Burk, 35, from
Berkeley, California, has not ventured onto
another route since January 1996.
But he has put in his time on The Nose:
261 days to be precise. Almost
certainly the longest time any person has
ever spent on one route. If Burk didn't
have the ability to make all the moves the
day he began, he sure does now.

His ascent came after a lot more work than
Lynn Hill's of September 1993 (Hill took
about eight days in all). But, says Burk,
who had great praise for Hill, "This is not
about comparing myself. The Nose is one of
the ultimate challenges in American free
climbing, one of the most beautiful routes
in the world." Even after all his
preparation, not everything went right for
Burk, who, supported by Eric Holm, Boulos
Ayad, and Nick Ginn, began his successful
attempt last November on the inauspicious
date of Friday
the 13th.

Over the 12 days it took for the
ground-to-summit free ascent, conditions
were terrible. About a fifth of the route
(700 feet of climbing) was dripping wet. At
The Great Roof, one of the wettest pitches,
Burk, exhausted, but with no time for an
overnight rest, made do with a toprope
ascent after his father (watching from the
meadow below) alerted him by cell phone to
a large impending storm.

Much talk has surrounded The Nose since
Hill's historic first free ascent, and her
subsequent one-day free ascent. Many strong
climbers have been shut down by the two
hardest pitches. Some people have even
suggested that it was only because of
Hill's small fingers that she and no others
had succeeded on the Great Roof pitch, an
arching pin-scarred crack under a huge
overhang. But Burk had little trouble with
the Great Roof when he climbed it in dry
conditions during an earlier
recconnaisance. "It's balance is what it
is," he said, describing the five or six
hard moves requiring double-hand pressure
above his head on the ceiling.

It was the original 29th pitch, often known
as the Changing Corners or the Houdini
pitch, about 2500 feet up, that was the
killer. Burk is the only climber other than
Hill to have succeeded on this pitch, too,
and he swears the section to be 5.14b,
explaining excitedly: "There are no holds!"

"5.14b? No way!" said Hill, when asked to
comment. But Burk says other climbers can
vouch for the difficulty, citing Leo
Houlding, who reportedly tried the pitch
and agreed with the rating around the same
time that he flashed several hard pitches
on El Cap's El Niqo (see Hot Flashes No.
182 and 183). Burk, who is about 5-foot-9,
climbed the Changing Corners using
friction, extreme body tension, and
technique honed through a hundred days of
effort: "On one of the knee-bars you can
rip your stomach muscles out," he said.

While others pursued their own goals in and
around the Valley, Burk has remained
single-minded about his. "Even as a young
kid I wanted to spider-man up that line,"
recalls Burk referring to The Nose, and his
desire, without knowing anything about
climbing style, to free climb up.

Burk admits that toproping one pitch gave
the ascent an unfortunate blemish: "It was
not in the style in which I can sit in my
rocking chair later and look back on it,
totally happy," he stated. He then added:
"When it's dry, I'm going to go back and do
it in a day. I can't settle for anything
less."


slobmonster


Nov 24, 2004, 9:55 PM
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There's always room for a FFDTA, or
"First Free Dry Tool Ascent"


phile


Nov 24, 2004, 10:27 PM
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Cool article about Scott. His dad, Leo, rapped down from the top with supplies on at least one occasion during the months he was up there--talk about a cool father-son activity! Seems like such a neat bonding thing to do.

Very interesting about the hand-size issue. I'd always heard that that was why only Lynn had made it go, but it sounds like that's a myth.

phile


tradmanclimbs


Nov 24, 2004, 11:10 PM
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Scott burke did in fact TOP ROPE the roof pitch. that is not an FA and everybody knows it. he called it a small blemish but the climbing world does not accept a top rope as an FA. (with the exception of the fly :roll) I guess if you stick clip the first 2 bolts on a 20 ft. rout you can still pretend you didn't top rope it.


phatcat


Nov 24, 2004, 11:43 PM
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In reply to:
There's always room for a FFDTA, or
"First Free Dry Tool Ascent"

would stray bullet holes that were meant for the dry-tooler also be considered chipping?? :lol:

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