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skinner
Dec 28, 2004, 5:51 AM
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I realize this is a "Gear" question, but wanted to specifically direct it at the Aid/Big Waller's. I value the opinions/experiences of climbers more so then the endless spec's that I have read through until cross-eyed.
I will be needing to replace\add some ropes soon and would be very interested in hearing what some of you are using.
I currently have:
(2) 9.5mm Edelrid Dynamic - 60m
(1) 10.5mm Mammut Dynamic Super Dry- 60m
(1) 11.0mm Blue Water Static - 60m
The 9.5 Edelrid's still have some life left in them.
The Mammut had a front point go through it 20' from the end.
The Blue Water has had it's day, jugging had taken it's toll. It has a bad case of the "Fuzzies".. looks more like 15.0 mm now.
Opinions/experiences; both good or bad would be greatly appreciated.
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epic_ed
Dec 28, 2004, 5:58 AM
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I love my fatty 11mm Yates Big Wall rope. It's basically a Blue Water Enduro with a thicker sheath, and so far it's serverd me two years. My buddy has a Mammut super safe and as you're aware, that's a hell of a rope, too. That was our wall rope before I got the Yates.
Ed
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ricardol
Dec 28, 2004, 5:58 AM
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My big wall rope is a Blue-Water enduro (11mm) (Yates re-branded) ..
.. makes jugging the line over a sharp edge less edgy..
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holdplease2
Dec 28, 2004, 6:03 AM
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Well, I have a rope I love.
11 mill ropes are fat, but nice for jugging.
I have a lighter-weight solution which I think handles better.
The mammut supersafe (edge rated, though this is being called into question).
It is a 10.2 with a nice enough 'hand' and reasonable weight so that it can double as your trad rope...and it achieves its smaller diameter by having a super-tough sheath.
The Mammut supersafe triodess is even better. The center has a very obvious center mark (pattern change) and the last 20 feet of each end are also marked with pattern change. When both climbers are into the anchor, with backups, and the rope is fixed for jugging, that can be five knots. The color changes on the ends help you know which knot is a "climber's" knot.
Also, the color change makes it obvious when you are coming to the end of the rope on a rappel and when you are coming to the end of the rope if you are feeding line to yourself or your partner out of a rope bag.
And it isn't a pain to find the ends of the line when the rope is in a pile.
Love my rope. Five walls and it still looks new.
My 2 cents.
-Kate.
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karlbaba
Dec 28, 2004, 7:08 AM
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The long time gold standard in big wall ropes has been the Edelwiess Stratos. More recent introductions of other edgeproof ropes might be as good or better, but I don't have experience wth them.
The Stratos is a bit stiff, but lasts forever
Peace
karl
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lazide
Dec 28, 2004, 7:19 AM
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I just go with a general 10mm dynamic - I mainly solo so my lead line doesn't get much abuse.
Static line however, Sterling HTP static all the way baby! Damn near zero stretch, and wears like cast iron (but still has a decent hand), and not much more expensive. Awesome for hauling and jugging, just don't ever use it where it might get fallen on (would be like falling on a steel cable).
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onelung
Dec 28, 2004, 7:42 AM
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Agreed here with Kate,
My supersafe has been the goods, Yosemite WFLT, and Elcap, France, Spain, Italy, and my homecourt of Hawaii and it is still in superior shape. I would buy another one if needed.
I mean its a great handling rope. I have jugged with 11m Yates big Wall, but when its the middle of the night, youre half drunk, its raining and you have have to take a 50 swing till plum and start jugging, Who cares what size rope youre on, you are so sure youre gonna die anyway!
Alooooha,
bill
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holdplease2
Dec 28, 2004, 7:46 AM
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Hey Lazide:
Why does your line get less wear because you solo?
-Kate.
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bringmedeath
Dec 28, 2004, 7:53 AM
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my super safe is worn through
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holdplease2
Dec 28, 2004, 7:55 AM
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Wooooo Hoooooooooooo! Takin' that swing with you bill!!!!
I think you should wall climb with my friend, Melissa...she uses a 9.7 sport line on walls, and you're EXTRA sure you're gonna diiiieeee!
-Kate.
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onelung
Dec 28, 2004, 8:01 AM
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Whoops I misspelled it.
When youre swinging, Its " Diiiieeeee!!!!!"
Damn tough to beat that kind of fun!
bill
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epic_ed
Dec 28, 2004, 4:01 PM
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Melissa uses a 9.7!! :shock: That thing has to look like a shoe lace when yer gripped. I'm sure it's plenty safe, but I'm a frail little man, mentally.
BTW -- Yates also make a 10.2mm "Speed Wall" rope that is also a Blue Water Ropes collaboration. Same as the big wall rope with the extra thick sheath and sharp edge rating.
Ed
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lazide
Dec 28, 2004, 4:09 PM
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In reply to: Hey Lazide: Why does your line get less wear because you solo? -Kate.
Since it stays 'fixed' relative to the rock and isn't drug over every sharp edge and protrusion, and I rebelay around the really sharp stuff as well - it makes a real difference. I got way more wear during a weekend at jtree (being extra tripple careful!) than on mescalito. (and there are a couple of really sharp and grainy pitches up there)
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fritzl
Dec 28, 2004, 4:15 PM
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My longtime favorite rope has been the Sterling 10.6, I think the model is called the "Marathon". Mine is 4 walls and many, many jugs old and only now is it getting to be stiff and incorrigable. I'm planning to replace it with one of the same and keep this one as a fixing/TR rope.
F
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the_alpine
Dec 28, 2004, 5:08 PM
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SKinny ropes are actually sweet on walls............until they run over an edge or you're the one jugging it. Ever tried to jug a 9.7? No fun.
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crotch
Dec 28, 2004, 5:38 PM
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Love my Stratos', but when they get fuzzy, they are a bitch to pull through a grigri, and they become just thick enough not to engage a ProTraxion very well.
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holdplease2
Dec 28, 2004, 5:49 PM
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Huh, right on Lazide, never realized how different it really is.
Thanks,
-Kate.
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lambone
Dec 28, 2004, 6:32 PM
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my vote is for the Mamut "Supersafe" for a lead line.
and for hauling I like the Sterling 10.5 polyesther ropes, great ropes I wish they made a 9mil.
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climb9876
Dec 28, 2004, 9:20 PM
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I take all the "edge safe" rope claims with a grain of salt. In the test the ropes only have to “survive” one drop over a specific edge, and the device doesn’t allow any slicing motion.
http://www.uiaa.ch/web.test/visual/Safety/UIAA-108%20Sharp%20Edge%20Resistent%20Ropes%20suspended%2007-2004.pdf
If the link doesn’t work go www.uiaa.ch and look for safety standards, the page includes an update on the status of the edge certification.
However, if I were going to buy an edge safe rope I would get the Stratos. If you ever get the chance to examine the core of an old Stratos do so. Once you cut the rope open you'll notice it has what I would call a secondary inner sheath surrounding the core bundles. These are stiff fibers, they feel almost like fishing line, braided around the entire core, or depending on how old the rope is most of the individual core bundles. It sounds strange to describe, but once you see it you'll understand. Anyway, it's my understanding these are what make the Stratos “edge safe”, and to me the whole set up looks pretty burly. I’ve been told the Stratos is currently the only “edge safe” rope with this extra layer of fiber, but who knows if that's still true.
Like I said I don’t think any of the "edge safe" ropes are really edge safe, but if I was concerned about it, I would get a Stratos, only use it wall climbing, and put up with its stiff handling. People who have lots of miles on one, does the hand soften up and if so how long did that take?
In case you’re wondering, I use a Sterling Marathon. It’s not rated edge safe but it has a great hand, it’s easy to handle, and the 10.0mm works well with a Silent Partner (important because so far I haven’t found anyone willing to belay my slow *ss on aid).
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piton
Dec 28, 2004, 9:50 PM
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anyone use a sterling rope. i forget their fat rope. anyone know where i can get a spool?
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climb9876
Dec 28, 2004, 11:02 PM
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Piton,
Online, try Gear Express of Northern Mtn. Depending on where you're located offline a lot of the more technical shops carry Sterling, ask around. The skinner of the two marathons are available in Bi Patterns.
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skinner
Dec 29, 2004, 3:55 PM
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Lots of good information here, greatly appreciated. :D
I should have combined this question, but curious as well if all you Aid/Big Waller's use/prefer 60m ropes?
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dangle
Dec 29, 2004, 4:53 PM
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Brand: I've used Bluewater ropes on over a hundred FAs (wouldn't stick with it if it wasn't superior).
Length: 50 meters is plenty for an aid lead but some climbs sport features that a longer rope can better exploit. Sometimes I've done lightweight wall climbs with only one rope and will go with a 60m or even a 70m just to have some extra if I rap.
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epic_ed
Dec 29, 2004, 5:23 PM
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If you're soloing, it's nice to have a longer rope -- even longer than 60M. The Yates ropes are 65M and that's a nice length to have when you need a little extra to link pitches. You can often link pitches soloing that you wouldn't even consider if you were climbing with a partner because rope drag isn't a factor. The trade off, of course, is the added weight.
Ed
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lambone
Dec 29, 2004, 7:44 PM
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In reply to: Brand: I've used Bluewater ropes on over a hundred FAs
[insert chestbeat soundeffects now]
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