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dangle
Dec 29, 2004, 8:06 PM
Post #26 of 52
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A few points for lambone:
This year R&I asked me to number my FAs.
Many of the people I've climbed with have SOLD their endorsements.
Bluewater has never given me rope conditional upon my saying positive things about it nor have they given me money.
The rope's performance exceeded my hopes.
When a person has payed their dues their word has enhanced value.
I like most climbers and wished them to benefit from what little I could offer.
Ron Olevsky
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lambone
Dec 29, 2004, 8:45 PM
Post #27 of 52
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I'm sure blue water ropes are great...
I am just being sarcastic and saying that your comment about the number of FA's you've done makes you sound like a tool. I don't see how it adds anything to the discussion other than boosting your own ego.
Maybe if you had used one rope for those hundred first ascents, then it would say something about the rope. But for all we know you had to retire each rope after each climb...then that doesn't say much about Blue Water ropes at all. Nor do we have any idea what type of ascents they were...could have been 100 new boulder problems in Mississippi for all we know, and the rope sat happily in your pack the whole time.
Maybe you should list your 100 first ascents (numbered of course...to make Rock +Ice Magazine happy), in your user profile?
cheers, happy new year!
Sincerly,
Matt (nobody gives a fvck what my last name is)
oh, and BTW- nobody...I repeat, nobody in there right mind uses 50 meter ropes for Big Wall Climbing, in Yosemite at least. And if they do I am sure they have plenty of stories on when the rope wasn't quite long enough.
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holdplease2
Dec 29, 2004, 9:13 PM
Post #28 of 52
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Well, if the majority of your climbs are FA's, you could climb on a 30 meter rope and be fine.
This is just one way that the perspective of a follower will always be different from the perspective of a leader (FA-ist).
-Kate.
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piton
Dec 29, 2004, 9:21 PM
Post #29 of 52
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i needs deals on a spool of rope. who can hook me up. fat ropes and none of the gym spool sh!t.
thanks
also who on el cap climbs w/ 50m???
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dangle
Dec 29, 2004, 9:29 PM
Post #30 of 52
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Fair enough on some points.
Wall climbing and sandstone can be exceptionally abrasive on some ropes.
I put up the T-bird with Bluewater and used the ropes many more times.
I have put up dozens of sandstone routes with individual Bluewater ropes. The ropes I used on Iron Messiah were used by Barry Ward and me on the FHA of Prodigal Sun.
I could bore you with specifics.
Also note the comment about routes sporting features, but lacking these the rack for 50m of aid tends to inhibit my free climbing enough...
Dinosaur that I am, the last Yosemite wall I did, a new variant on El Cap, was done with 50m ropes.
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glockaroo
Dec 29, 2004, 10:01 PM
Post #31 of 52
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I swear, it seems that The Bird himself could offer aid advice on this forum and get shiite for it. Next thing you know, Ray Jardine will post about his work on cams and someone here will argue with him about it.
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dangle
Dec 29, 2004, 10:58 PM
Post #32 of 52
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Hey glockaroo, thanks.
I think you have hit an important point. Climbers quibbling among themselves are failing to demonstrate the unity needed to avoid handing the land managers the very justifications they need for curtailing access.
Check out my post on cam hooks. Forgot to mention that even hauling a bag can have negative impact.
Uh,....but wasn't this about ropes? So sorry.
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lambone
Dec 29, 2004, 11:34 PM
Post #33 of 52
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whoa, didn't mean to endanger anyones access on this here climbin' forum...sorry :oops:
I guess I should read more R&I more so I'd be aware of who's who in climbing...
no offense meant mister sandstone hardman.
but personaly, I think BW ropes are shite. soft wimpy sheaths that slip, and cores that become dead and flat in multiple places after minimal climbing.
but that's just a noobs (or as Kate says..."a followers") perspective.
again, now going on 6 walls with a Mamut Supersafe with no sign or wear other then the darker color from dirt.
Also have had a pair of Edlewise Stratos for years ow that are still going strong. Same with a Sterling Marathon.
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holdplease2
Dec 29, 2004, 11:44 PM
Post #34 of 52
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Lambone:
I think its more your (seemingly) uncalled for condescending tone to a dude who probably knows whats up, who was simply stating is record for credibility in a post where he offered his opinion that was the problem.
You continue the same tone, even when on the surface you apologize. Why?
Apparently you have climbed some walls on bluewater ropes and have had negative experiences. Thats cool. The fact that you climbed 6 more walls on supersafe ropes and had positive experiences is what gives you your credibility. And stating 6 walls was not "chest beating", it was establishing your credibility.
Anybody know who makes Yates ropes? I don't know and wondered.
-Kate.
Edited to remove lambone's name.
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epic_ed
Dec 29, 2004, 11:51 PM
Post #35 of 52
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Kate -- Blue Water. The 11mm is essentially the Enduro with a thicker sheath (umm, I posted about it on the first page :P ).
Ed
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lambone
Dec 29, 2004, 11:52 PM
Post #36 of 52
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stating 6 walls was not establishing my credibility, it was sating the rope's credibility. huge difference in my opinion.
whatever, I don't need to justify my respones to you. people wanna spray about how tough they are then so-be it, but I will give them crap in jest if I want to.
funny thing how you and Ed were just tearing someone up for doing the same thing just a few days ago.
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lambone
Dec 30, 2004, 1:00 AM
Post #37 of 52
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hey Mike, yeah I have some Roca ice chords, 7.8 I think. I had never heard of the company when I bought them, but have been totaly stoaked since. very similar to the BD/PMI skinny ropes.
never seen the fat Roca ropes in the US.
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holdplease2
Dec 30, 2004, 5:11 AM
Post #38 of 52
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Howdy Mike - Hanging with you guys is probably the best memory of the climb. :)
Lambone: If I recall correctly, Ed and I got on Deerhunter, not for spraying, but for being 1) condescending and 2) giving unnecessary grief/talking down to people who were doing their best to help.
You can give people crap in jest all you want, of course, as long as you are fine with taking crap back when others don't think its that funny. Either way your choice. Maybe I just need to get a sense of humor...probably the case.
Ed: If I hadn't killfiled you, I might have seen it. ;)
Gentlemen, we all just need to get out and climb.
-Kate.
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climb9876
Dec 30, 2004, 10:15 PM
Post #39 of 52
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 15
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Dangle/ Ron O,
I had a friend describe to me a top stepping method you demonstrated in the clean walls video. Apparently, you keep your balance in the aiders by putting one leg with a bent knee behind the other or something like that? I was trying it out on my last route, with gear in above me for balance, and I couldn't figure out how it works.
I know this is off the rope topic and I should just by the video, but I've already spent my climbing funds for the next couple of months.
Thanks.
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jliebgott
Jan 1, 2005, 5:15 PM
Post #40 of 52
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Registered: May 22, 2003
Posts: 59
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I've used the same bi-color 60m PMI dry-treated rope on 4 walls and 100+ trad pitches in Yosemite. It's finally fuzzy-ing up in a few spots but it still handles great and I would buy it again in a second.
One thing I've found w/ the Stratos is that while it is truly indestructable - it handles like a steel wire. Pulling it through a reverso can be painful.
Jason
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bringmedeath
Jan 1, 2005, 7:25 PM
Post #41 of 52
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Registered: Jul 26, 2004
Posts: 40
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Nice thread! My supersafe got fucked when I ran it over a mossy slab that when I ascended on it... well it ate it up! Luckly I can cut 10 feet off and the rope will still be good. Planning on getting a stratos 70m next. But maybe I will look into this Roca...
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skinner
Jan 2, 2005, 7:29 PM
Post #42 of 52
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Registered: Nov 1, 2004
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Really appreciate the opinions and comments from you all, the more the better! Does anyone know if there are any rope manufacturer/dealer reps. on rc.com? I am going to *fondle* some ropes today, I will let you know how I make out :wink:
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stew
Jan 2, 2005, 9:24 PM
Post #43 of 52
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Registered: Dec 31, 2004
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I've read a lot of good things about New England static ropes..they're suppose to be super durable...I haven't haven't had any first hand experience on them however.
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ricardol
Jan 2, 2005, 11:13 PM
Post #44 of 52
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Registered: Nov 11, 2002
Posts: 1050
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here's my 2 cents
I've used the same 2 ropes on both solo's on el cap that i've done, a Yates 11mm (really a bluewater rebranded rope) and a b;uewwaater 10.x static line.
The lead line is in great shape and only has some minor damage to the sheath in isolated locations where it was running over an edge while jugging .. -- nothing worth worrying about ..
it also has the normal damage you'd see from repeated jugging ..
i'd say that the this rope has several walls left in it...
the haul line is also in great shape .. and will see plenty of more walls ..
.. i guess the point is that it doesn't really matter which rope you buy for a big wall .. get a thick rope so that you dont shit your pants when you jug it.
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justsendingits
Jan 4, 2005, 1:05 AM
Post #45 of 52
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Registered: Dec 29, 2001
Posts: 1070
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I heard there is a double dry treated rope out there.
Is there such a thing? does it exist?
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climb9876
Jan 5, 2005, 4:37 PM
Post #46 of 52
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Double-Dry is Bluewater's trademark for their specific dry treatment. They claim to dry treat the both the core fibers and the sheath fibers, hence the Double-Dry. Almost all of the other manufacturers use and or promote a similar technology; in someway they all coat their rope's sheath and core fibers.
Mammut, Superdry
Sterling, DryCore
and so on...
In my experience, new dry treated ropes absorb the least moisture but they lose their effectiveness over time. I think the best bet would be to baby your dry rope on the rock and reapply the dry treatment with the Nikwax or other commercial do-it-your-self dry treatment product before each season.
I believe there are other threads about what manufacturer’s dry ropes work the best on this website and neclimbs.
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skinner
Jan 8, 2005, 7:11 AM
Post #47 of 52
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I appreciate hearing your recommendations and opinions both good and bad. I am surprised that it only came down to 5 ropes. Here's a quick summary. (for anyone interested)
How many people recommended a rope, name of rope, and the cost of ropes.
(4) Mammut Super Safe------$239.00 USD
(4) Edelwiess Stratos---------$218.00 USD
(3) Blue-Water/Yates---------$154.00 USD
(2) Sterling Marathon---------$222.00 USD
(1) Spanish Roca--------------$195.00 USD
I went to the local climbing shop and, *fondled* rope for about an hour. Unfortunately they didn't have any of the ones listed above, so I left empty handed. Let me re-phrase that.... I left without a rope! I never leave a climbing shop "empty handed", just with a lighter wallet :wink:
I am going climbing this weekend near Banff, there is a shop there that has both the Blue-Water and the Mammut. After a little more *rope-fondling*, we'll see what I come home with.
I had never heard of "Spanish Roca" before this thread, but they certainly are worth taking a look at, their pricing definitely got my attention!
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lambone
Jan 8, 2005, 7:32 AM
Post #48 of 52
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Registered: May 1, 2003
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cool, good luck...
and remember, more than the rope....it's the ropework that counts, you gotta take care of that shit on a wall.
I don't care if it's a steel cable, run it over one bad edge for your partner to jug and it's toast in one pitch...and your partner could be toast as well.
cheers
must be chilly up there, you climbin some ice!?
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skinner
Jan 8, 2005, 8:13 AM
Post #49 of 52
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I really appreciate the advice and tips!
In reply to: must be chilly up there, you climbin some ice!?
We're doing some mixed, snow/rock/ice climbing, and as I tell my southern climbing friends.. "But it's a dry cold". :wink:
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lambone
Jan 8, 2005, 8:19 AM
Post #50 of 52
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nice, be safe out there...hope I have a chance to make it up that way this season...
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