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Re: [majid_sabet] Why build climbing gear with high KN rating:
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chalker7
Feb 16, 2008, 2:38 AM
Views: 2664
Registered: Mar 18, 2003
Posts: 317
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majid_sabet wrote: if you ask me, why fire and rescue people use high rating gear, I could easily tell you that In USA fire services , the minmum safety factor is 15:1 and generally, a fire man is consider as 1 kN.If he is going down the line to rescue another man who is 1KN, his biner has to be at least 30 KN or more to support two. You will not see a fire man on a climber biner rapping down the side of building if his biner is rated to 18KN . The 15:1 safety factor, unofficially has been set as an standard by agencies such as NFPA which overseas some of the standards for rescue gear. What kind of safety factors standard do you have out there for climbers ? 3:1 , 5:1 ? Does anyone know what safety factor most climber go by ? Do you build your anchor so it could handel your weight or you build it so it could take 10x of your falling forces ?
Forgive me if I am wrong, I'm a little rusty and my rigging / engineering book is at the firehouse. Is it not true that 15:1 is not static figure, but rather can be downgraded depending on the situation? What I mean is that if an anchor will not be subjected to more than one person it can be built at a 10:1 margin? I know its rare that the rescuer and victim wouldn't be on the same line, but I think this is true.
What I can contribute that I know is true is that NFPA does not recognize kN forces in their calculations, but rather only static weights (3000 lbs, etc.). This is the case because NFPA refuses to write standards that allow any situation where a rescuer or victim might become subject to dynamic falls. Hence forth the anchor would not be subjected to dynamic forces.
Not super important info but a little tid-bit that I could add.
Peace. Colby.
(This post was edited by chalker7 on Feb 16, 2008, 2:41 AM)
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Post edited by chalker7
() on Feb 16, 2008, 2:41 AM
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