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stagg54


May 21, 2005, 12:08 AM
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Anybody have any good pullup workouts?

Right now I can do about 10 or 12 overhand pullups. I want to be able to do 20. I already tried the Armstrong pullup routine. It worked for a while bu then I hit a plateau. Any ideas?


isaacct


May 21, 2005, 12:16 AM
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Try this one:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1011072#1011072


wingnut


May 21, 2005, 12:54 AM
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Frenchies.

Do a pull up and lock off with your chin above the bar/hangboard/whatever for 5 seconds. then drop down and do another pull up and lock off with arms at a 90 degree angle. another pull up and lock off at a 120 degree angle.

After you can do 3 sets or more, start doing "hyper frenchies." my record is 30 second lock offs.


jt512


May 21, 2005, 4:50 AM
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In reply to:
Anybody have any good pullup workouts?

Right now I can do about 10 or 12 overhand pullups. I want to be able to do 20. I already tried the Armstrong pullup routine. It worked for a while bu then I hit a plateau. Any ideas?

Is this something you are doing for fun? because it won't help you climb better.

-Jay


stagg54


May 22, 2005, 2:31 AM
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Is this something you are doing for fun? because it won't help you climb better.

-Jay

Actually I'm doing it because I'm in the Marines and I have to do them for my physical fitness test. I'm sure theres some climbers out there who can do a ton of pullups, so I thought maybe someone might have a good workout

Also I don't see how being stronger won't help your climbing. Sure it would probably be better if I had a hang board and tried to build my finger strength, which I do everytime I go to the climbing gym, but a little extra back strength may come in handy at some point.


thurgood


May 22, 2005, 2:48 AM
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being stronger will make you climb better, why would you say it wouldnt.


climbinforfreedom


May 22, 2005, 7:48 PM
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Is this something you are doing for fun? because it won't help you climb better.

-Jay

Actually I'm doing it because I'm in the Marines and I have to do them for my physical fitness test. I'm sure theres some climbers out there who can do a ton of pullups, so I thought maybe someone might have a good workout

Also I don't see how being stronger won't help your climbing. Sure it would probably be better if I had a hang board and tried to build my finger strength, which I do everytime I go to the climbing gym, but a little extra back strength may come in handy at some point.


i can do 120 but thats with lots of working and practice just do it every day bro lol do like 5 one day 10 the other day push ups have helped me too and so have sit up since u use your abs to pul ur self up most of the time its not really in ur arms or atleast in mine lol well good luck


getsomeethics


May 22, 2005, 9:16 PM
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while waiting for fires at work 6 of us will do pull-up pyramids.

do 1 then rest while the others, one at a time do their 1,
do 2 then rest while the others, one at a time do their 2.....

we go up to 10, then back down (100 all together)

as it gets easier go up to 11 (121) , 12 (144).....

more interesting with a group.

it has improved my power for climbing.

TF


too_far_gone


May 22, 2005, 9:38 PM
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Hey man, I a am in the Marines also. I know for a fact that you cannot spit on a Marine Corps base without hitting a pull-up bar. I get my 20 now and all I did was every hour I would walk outside and do a set of 10. Once, 10 became easy I did 15. Now 20 during a PFT isn't bad at all.


radistrad


May 22, 2005, 10:02 PM
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I think jt512 was saying that pull ups wont help you climb any better because climbing better is all about the foot work.
I am glad that your in the Marines, we need a few good men!


grog


May 22, 2005, 11:25 PM
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My coach used to make us do "russian chinups", they work the core too. Pull up, then swing into a front lever, then swing back. As you get better, try to slow down the swing.


organic


May 23, 2005, 1:13 AM
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I like how people always say pullups don't make you a better climber, yet most top tier climbers these days can do a sick number of pullups, either one arm, one finger, or two arms etc. Even John Gill was seen doing these feats. yeah climbing is more than doing pullups, but one thing I know is that I have ben doing weighted pullups lately and it is helping me defeat my plateau. Find me someone who can climb 5.13 and who can only do less than 10 pullups. Or even someone who climbs 5.12 maybe? How about a poll?


jt512


May 23, 2005, 1:14 AM
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In reply to:
Also I don't see how being stronger won't help your climbing. Sure it would probably be better if I had a hang board and tried to build my finger strength, which I do everytime I go to the climbing gym, but a little extra back strength may come in handy at some point.

Well, climbforfreedom can do 120 pullups. Perhaps we should ask him how hard he climbs. Last time I checked, I could do 13 pullups. Want to guess who climbs harder?

-Jay


organic


May 23, 2005, 1:23 AM
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Jt512: climbing is definitely not all about pullups but who can deny that it helps? 120 pullups is great maybe for endurance climbing/bouldering?


jt512


May 23, 2005, 1:32 AM
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Jt512: climbing is definitely not all about pullups but who can deny that it helps? 120 pullups is great maybe for endurance climbing/bouldering?

Show me the proof. Here's what I think about pullups: they reinforce poor technique and displace more effective training.

When is the last time you did a pullup on a route?


5.12c, and not a pullup on the route:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=14140


5.12a/b -- no pullups on this one either:

http://hillarydavis.com/...gkshadow1resized.jpg

etc, etc, etc.

-Jay


curt


May 23, 2005, 1:55 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Jt512: climbing is definitely not all about pullups but who can deny that it helps? 120 pullups is great maybe for endurance climbing/bouldering?

Here's what I think about pullups: they reinforce poor technique and displace more effective training.

-Jay

As some smart-ass said, show me the proof. :lol:

Curt


jt512


May 23, 2005, 2:18 AM
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Jt512: climbing is definitely not all about pullups but who can deny that it helps? 120 pullups is great maybe for endurance climbing/bouldering?

Here's what I think about pullups: they reinforce poor technique and displace more effective training.

-Jay

As some smart-ass said, show me the proof. :lol:

Curt

I said "I think," which makes it a hypothesis. ;) My only evidence is anecdotal. I have several climbing partners who swear by pullups. They climb about 5.11, as they have for several years. Their technique is visibly inefficient. I often see them fail at moves that they could do if they only slightly adjusted their center of gravity, pulled their hips into the wall a little more, climbed more dynamically, etc. Oddly enought, in spite of seeing little improvement in their climbing, they are convinced that their pullup training is helping their climbing. I suspect that this is because they "feel" stronger, and because they can occasionally muscle through a move that they couldn't do without pullup training. However, they are training the wrong thing. If they trained movement instead, they could do the moves they are pulling through anyway, and could also do the moves they can't pull through. The occasional gratification they get from being able to muscle through a move not only reinforces their poor technique, but also their belief in their ineffective training.

In contrast, among the handful of 5.13 climbers I know personally or have corresponded with, only one does any pullup training at all, and he does it on a hangboard, mostly doing extreme finger strength exercises; but he's pushing 5.14, has specific goals, and understands what weaknesses he needs to train.

-Jay


pea_tear_griffin


May 23, 2005, 3:22 AM
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I think there's an important point that we might be missing here. jt512, you say that only one of the 5.13 climbers you do has a pull-up regimen. While this helps the argument you make I do believe it is out of context. It's not a question of doing a pull-up regimen, but rather a one of how many pull-ups can the other 5..13 climbers do. If they can do way more then the original poster can then yea, maybe pull-ups do help climbing. If they can do less or an equal amount then that would show that pull-ups don't really help that much. I just think the last part of your post compares apples to oranges. That's my two cents though and as a disclaimer I would just like to say that I am detecting a little bit of hostility in this thread, mostly directed towards jt512. I would just like to say that I respect all of the comments made in the thread and I think there is great validity to the arguments made for and against a pull-up training helping climbing ability.


jt512


May 23, 2005, 3:37 AM
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I think there's an important point that we might be missing here. jt512, you say that only one of the 5.13 climbers you do has a pull-up regimen. While this helps the argument you make I do believe it is out of context. It's not a question of doing a pull-up regimen, but rather a one of how many pull-ups can the other 5..13 climbers do. If they can do way more then the original poster can then yea, maybe pull-ups do help climbing. If they can do less or an equal amount then that would show that pull-ups don't really help that much. I just think the last part of your post compares apples to oranges. That's my two cents though and as a disclaimer I would just like to say that I am detecting a little bit of hostility in this thread, mostly directed towards jt512. I would just like to say that I respect all of the comments made in the thread and I think there is great validity to the arguments made for and against a pull-up training helping climbing ability.

There are two questions implied by the above: 1) does pull-up training help climbing (much), and 2) is there a correlation between the number of pull-ups a climber can do and how hard he can climb. It is possible that there can be a positive correlation between number of pullups and climbing grade without pullup training being particularly helpful to climbing. For instance, hard climbing might build pull-up strength, whereas consciously training pullups could (as I have suggested) displace more effective training while simultaneously reinforcing poor technique (a negative double-whammy). Thus, there could be a postitive correlation between number of pullups and climbing grade, especially (ironically enough) among climbers who do not train pull-ups. Nevertheless, the results so far, suggest an overall negative correlation between number of pullups and climbing grade. I suspect that this is the case because beginning and intermediate climbers mistakenly believe that training pullups is more effective than it is; whereas more advanced climbers stress other, more effective forms of training.

-Jay


kalcario


May 23, 2005, 3:42 AM
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*Find me someone who can climb 5.13 and who can only do less than 10 pullups. Or even someone who climbs 5.12 maybe?*

Moi.

If you're a young kid, then by all means, do pull-ups till your eyeballs bleed. But I know guys who can do one-arm pull-ups who can't onsight 5.11 consistently. It's actually better to come to this sport with little in the way of upper body strength because it forces you to learn technique and use your head. Endurance and technique trumps power - up to about 13b, anyway.


curt


May 23, 2005, 3:50 AM
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*Find me someone who can climb 5.13 and who can only do less than 10 pullups. Or even someone who climbs 5.12 maybe?*

Moi.

If you're a young kid, then by all means, do pull-ups till your eyeballs bleed. But I know guys who can do one-arm pull-ups who can't onsight 5.11 consistently. It's actually better to come to this sport with little in the way of upper body strength because it forces you to learn technique and use your head. Endurance and technique trumps power - up to about 13b, anyway.

Sure, if you're a sissy sportwanker. :roll:

Curt


Partner taualum23


May 23, 2005, 1:54 PM
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*Find me someone who can climb 5.13 and who can only do less than 10 pullups. Or even someone who climbs 5.12 maybe?*

Moi.

If you're a young kid, then by all means, do pull-ups till your eyeballs bleed. But I know guys who can do one-arm pull-ups who can't onsight 5.11 consistently. It's actually better to come to this sport with little in the way of upper body strength because it forces you to learn technique and use your head. Endurance and technique trumps power - up to about 13b, anyway.

You climb 13's and can't do 10 pullups? I find that truly remarkeable. Amazing, and I sincerely doubt I will ever climb a 13, but 10 pullups REALLY is not a lot. I didn't think 13 would be possible with such a low strength to wait ratio.


boulderman


May 23, 2005, 2:17 PM
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Jesus, it seems everyone here has a "pullup" agenda. Just do some pullups and stay strong, it helps! Also, work on your footwork and hand strength, that helps too. Why is everything an issue on this board? Fuck, training is obvious dude. If you want to do more, then push yourself to do more.

Every fucking simple thing has to be played out in every training thread on this web site.

This should be the common answere to every training question.

If you want to climb 5.12, then start by climbing a lot of 5.11's. Then do more. Then try some 12's, then rest and try some more. If you want to train hand strength, then campus a little, rest and campus more.

When those things become easy, try something different that is hard, when that becomes easy then change again.

The bottom line is: If you want to get better and stronger, keep pushing and keep your body guessing because it adapts quickly.


thorne
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May 23, 2005, 2:21 PM
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Great post boulderman!


fracture


May 23, 2005, 4:09 PM
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*Find me someone who can climb 5.13 and who can only do less than 10 pullups. Or even someone who climbs 5.12 maybe?*

Moi.

...

You climb 13's and can't do 10 pullups? I find that truly remarkeable.

It's not that remarkable. I (and many others) are the same way. ;)

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