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shear
Jun 7, 2008, 11:34 PM
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so at Farley, were you on the upper tier? above the bolted routes...?
If so...Barndoor is on the far right. From Yosemite crack, keep going right, up a small gully and there is a beautiful face cut by 2 cracks...the one on the right is Bulletproof, a 13b offwidth and the left is Barndoor, a 10d amazing crack, both look like they were cut by a lazer. the rock is some of the best i've seen.
J-crack is way left of Yosemite...on the grayish rock at the top of the gully between the cave and the amphitheater. it's like 30 feet of overhanging boulder 12dish climbing...really really good, then slabs out to funky 10ish climbing to an anchor.
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cracklover
Jun 8, 2008, 2:50 AM
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shear wrote: so at Farley, were you on the upper tier? above the bolted routes...? If so...Barndoor is on the far right. From Yosemite crack, keep going right, up a small gully and there is a beautiful face cut by 2 cracks...the one on the right is Bulletproof, a 13b offwidth and the left is Barndoor, a 10d amazing crack, both look like they were cut by a lazer. the rock is some of the best i've seen. J-crack is way left of Yosemite...on the grayish rock at the top of the gully between the cave and the amphitheater. it's like 30 feet of overhanging boulder 12dish climbing...really really good, then slabs out to funky 10ish climbing to an anchor.
Yeah, since there's no guidebook, I really have no idea what's there. But I'm going back tomorrow, and I plan to do Pea Pod Crack (that's what I heard it called). If I can find Barndoor, I'll do that, too.
Thanks for the suggestion!
GO
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shear
Jun 8, 2008, 10:35 PM
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Yeah, Peapod is really good. low crux and cruiser the rest of the way.
Hope you had fun in this oppressive heat....you couldn't pay me to climb in this.
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jakedatc
Jun 9, 2008, 3:02 AM
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Anyone at Rumney find my hiking pole saturday afternoon at either parking lot wall or in the freaking parking lot.. i'd love to get it back
Good times this weekend with josh and Tiff.. pics eventually when they send them to me and a TR when i'm not tired and the celtics arent on
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cracklover
Jun 9, 2008, 12:48 PM
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shear wrote: Yeah, Peapod is really good. low crux and cruiser the rest of the way. Hope you had fun in this oppressive heat....you couldn't pay me to climb in this.
Well, I didn't get on any of them. Between overnight thunderstorms and a huge amount of condensation in the cool crack from the hot humid air, all the cracks were waterfalls yesterday.
I did OS a 10c in the cave, anyone know what it's called? 4 bolts through a small roof, and then 35 feet of trad climbing to the top. And I gave a couple burns on that 12a through the corner of the big roof. It was pretty wet, too, but whatever.
I'm really psyched to get on Peapod, and especially Barndoor. I got a good look at Barndoor yesterday, and it looks spectacular.
GO
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shear
Jun 9, 2008, 5:03 PM
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yeah, unfortunately...the awesome colors of the upper tier are a result of water streaks....the 10c is called vinyl siding...goes up and left kind of under a roof then back right over it? then ok gear to the top? it used to be all the way bolted...but i mean, it's really easy from there to the top. the 12a is Hard as an Oosic....really awesome route...glad you got a chance to get on it.
and yes...barn door....phenomenal route....the rock is absolutely stunning up there
and by stunning i mean choss. no one should go to Farley. it's one huge exfoliating mountain.
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jakedatc
Jun 9, 2008, 5:51 PM
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Ok here we go.. short version.
went up to Rumney saturday morning.. found lots of wet rocks. climbed War and Peace as a waterfall.. inspected some of the fire damage around bonsai and waimea. All in all i don't think it's that bad. Some of the trees they had to cut down need to be cleared off trails and stuff but it was mostly ground cover that got burned up. Waimea.. waterfall.. never seen it so wet.
lower vadar soaked but josh bravely led Yoda.. tiff and i said forget about it. I tried to lead Obi won and the lower jugs around the first bolt were too wet to even hold onto so i downclimbed off it.
Finally found what resembled dryish rock at the left end of the parking lot on Idiots Deluxe and then we did Lies and Propaganda which was totally dry. We were attacked from above by a falling piece of wood from who knows where. Luckily we heard it coming and scattered for cover. I finished up on Cloe's breakfast special before heading to dinner. Somehow my hiking pole and faithful stick clip did not make it into the car :(
Set up camp then headed to Plymouth House of Pizza for food and pool.
Sunday we awoke to the beginning of a hot day but dry rocks. Warmed up on a completely dry Obi won. Waimea was open so Tiff took the chance to go for her RP but had to settle for a one fall attempt.. but i think looked solid to that point.
then we went up to Hinterlands for fun and games. We boldly decided that one 5.9 was enough warm up for 5.11d crimpfest. We were wrong. Josh led up Niki's crack in good style until the crux where he took some nice wingers that i luckily captured on "film" ;) I trying top roping it but failed pretty hard. My endurance and technical uh umm.. footwork? is that what it's called? is quite lacking at the moment. but after a few falls i muscled through it in a true bouldering fashion . Tiff tried leading it but fell around the same spot as josh a few times but my timing wasn't as good on the pics.
moved over and i finally led Dolt.. long and a bit mental 5.9 i hadn't done on the sharp end before. Josh cleaned it and we retreated down to the meadows for one more quick route. I led repossession for shits and giggles then tiff did with only one fall.. which happens to most people on their flash attempt it seems. Hopped in the car and headed to Josh's Metrorock climbing team party for a relaxing end to the weekend.
pics eventually
Blake is Oosic the one that goes up the .11 face thing and then out left across the roof? that meets up with that 5.uberhard project? if so i wanna try that sometime.. looked fun when we saw your friend on it with Meg and Loran
(This post was edited by jakedatc on Jun 9, 2008, 6:12 PM)
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cracklover
Jun 9, 2008, 6:40 PM
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Jake, nice TR! Thanks for taking the time to write it up.
Yup, you're exactly right about. And yeah, it is a sweet line. I wish it wasn't so wet when I got on it. I still wouldn't have gotten it clean my first try, but I would have had more left for my second go.
GO
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dovaka
Jun 11, 2008, 12:49 AM
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hi everyone ive been away for awhile but im back again ready to climb anything i can
just wanted to post that im alive again and look forward to running into all of you out there
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wonderwoman
Jun 11, 2008, 1:45 AM
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jakedatc wrote: Ok here we go.. short version.
With pics to come! I, myself, didn't send much. But Jake and Josh took a lot pretty good 'no-send-pics' of me. And if you look good, that's all that matters, right? Josh and Jake also have some nice shots - only they sent!
jakedatc wrote: Finally found what resembled dryish rock at the left end of the parking lot on Idiots Deluxe and then we did Lies and Propaganda which was totally dry.
Oh yeah, maybe I did send something, afterall! First time back on that climb since 2004, and I got it clean and put up a top rope for another group (didn't matter because there was NO ONE at rumney at all). But then...
jakedatc wrote: We were attacked from above by a falling piece of wood from who knows where.Luckily we heard it coming and scattered for cover.
A large chunk of wood landed on top of my climbing shoes and rope bag, right where I was standing!  I pretty much wore a helmet for every climb the next day and was super paranoid about falling stuff!
jakedatc wrote: Set up camp then headed to Plymouth House of Pizza for food and pool.
Which has been completely renovated and even has soap in the bathroom now! Classy!!!
jakedatc wrote: Waimea was open so Tiff took the chance to go for her RP but had to settle for a one fall attempt.
Yeah, that's it! I fell! It wasn't a shameful or pathetic grab for the quickdraw or anything like that.  Thanks for looking the other way! I'm saving it for the Ruckus now. NO PICTURES!!!
jakedatc wrote: then we went up to Hinterlands for fun and games. We boldly decided that one 5.9 was enough warm up for 5.11d crimpfest. We were wrong. Josh led up Niki's crack in good style until the crux where he took some nice wingers that i luckily captured on "film" ;) I trying top roping it but failed pretty hard. My endurance and technical uh umm.. footwork? is that what it's called? is quite lacking at the moment. but after a few falls i muscled through it in a true bouldering fashion . Tiff tried leading it but fell around the same spot as josh a few times but my timing wasn't as good on the pics.
Can't wait for the pics to post, especially of Josh being airborne! We'll all get it next time!
To be continued... At the Rumney Ruckus!
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jakedatc
Jun 11, 2008, 11:06 AM
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Yes.. you were solid on L/P. If you want me to load pics that weren't of me on my photobucket then you'll have to send those too.. i only got ones of me on my email.
might be doing some bouldering at Purgatory (middletown) on the sea side cobblestone with Lee . anyone know when high tide is ;)
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skiorclimb
Jun 11, 2008, 1:23 PM
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Hello all,
The weather looks promising for Saturday, and I happened to be free from other obligations (a rear event). I will be leaving for the Gunks after work on Friday - hope to be on the road by about 18.00 leaving from Lincoln, RI if anyone is looking to car-pool and doesn't mind getting to the MUA after dark. I'll be returning Saturday evening.
If any one wants to meet up at the gunks for some easy climbing drop me an email lvb6srp@ups.com and we can arrange a meeting.
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gobotrocker
Jun 12, 2008, 6:48 PM
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Hey guys,
I'm not working tomorrow, (Friday), I aint even saying the date...
I'm up for swapping leads at Crow Hill, Rose, Bunyan, Ragged or Farley. I dont know my way around Farley yet, but I can get there.
I can lead 5.10 and follow same.
I'm not one of your online regulars but Lucander knows me and I climbed with Ratherbe a day or 2 in da Gunks.
Call me at 413-796-7070 or 335-3911 cell
Scott
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c4c
Jun 13, 2008, 2:04 AM
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Don't go to Farley it sucks bad.
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robbovius
Jun 13, 2008, 8:25 PM
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c4c wrote: Don't go to Farley it sucks bad.
really, absolute choss. I donated $50 to teh WMCC simply because I felt sorry for them having such a crappy climbing area.
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marinamerica
Jun 13, 2008, 11:10 PM
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Hi everybody,
I'm new in this forum.
I'm living near Boston since some months (I'm from Italy) and I'm looking for a place (easy place to climb. I need also to rent the accessories.
I climbed in Italy some years ago, but I'd like to start again here.
Thank you!!
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ratherbe
Jun 15, 2008, 6:54 PM
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Back from Yosemite/Lover's Leap. Yosemite was good (cracks, lovely cracks and lots o'rock) and bad (hot hot hot). Lover's Leap was fabulous with many nice moderate cracks, fewer people and less heat. Gold star to Jeremy for suggesting we add that to the trip. I might just have to move to Tahoe.
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cracklover
Jun 16, 2008, 2:04 AM
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Welcome back, Jen!
Marinamerica - you might start with one of the gyms, such as the Boston Rock Gym (in Woburn) or MetroRock (in Everett). I typically go on Thursdays, and could introduce you to folks if you want.
GO
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jakedatc
Jun 16, 2008, 2:34 AM
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here we go.. pics by me, josh and tiff
Tiff stylin on Waimea then Niki's crack
falling! (josh)
mm drop knees are my friend
exposure anyone?
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orangekyak
Jun 16, 2008, 4:49 AM
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
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No more Yose and Tahoe ... let's harass Jen and Greg for the pictures.
Here's a tick list for anyone interested ... leaders and followers not specified ...
First, in the valley ...
Oak Tree Flake 5.6
Grant's Crack 5.9
Penelope's Problem 5.7
Lena's Layback 5.9
?Name? 5.7
Munginella 5.6
Bishop's Terrace 5.8
The Grack 5.6
Nutcracker 5.8
Then, at The Leap ...
The Line 5.9
Haystack 5.8
It's Better With Bacon 5.8
Hogwild5.7
Bear's Reach 5.7
Knapsack Crack 5.5
Deception Direct 5.9
Accessory Dogs 5.10
All in all, it was a good trip.
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Gmburns2000
Jun 17, 2008, 1:42 AM
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Hey folks,
The first post is up. No pics yet, just my initial thoughts. It probably won't make any sense to you, but that's OK because I know what I'm saying  .
I plan on posting my initial thoughts, a post for each day, and a summary at the end. A link to the photos will be at the bottom of each post - one photo set each for Yosemite and Lover's Leap. The posts on the routes themselves will be the same standard as usual: grade, length, style, who led, approach, descent, and any stories that go with the climb. I hope to get at least a couple of posts done this week, with the rest done next week.
As an aside, "Jello" posted a bit on being a guide in Colorado called "Work is always work."
Enjoy
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ratherbe
Jun 18, 2008, 3:10 PM
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And what are pictures without the stories... so you'll have to wait for Greg's blog to be up. 
Edited to say: I did upload a couple shots here, but I still haven't learned how to drop those into a post.
(This post was edited by ratherbe on Jun 18, 2008, 3:12 PM)
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wonderwoman
Jun 18, 2008, 3:55 PM
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Welcome back! Can't wait to hear stories! Any bear encounters?
To put in a pic:
Right click on your pic and choose 'properties'
Copy what's next to 'location' and paste it into your post
Highlight the location address and hit the 'image' button
that should do it for ya! Now you can share!
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Gmburns2000
Jun 18, 2008, 5:25 PM
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Unfortunately I won't be able to write "Day 1" until Thursday evening due to the game last night and climbing at the gym tonight. I have my notes all set, though, so it's just a matter of writing it. Still, translating from my handwritten notes into something readable isn't that easy, so I may not even get it done until Friday evening (unless, of course, everyone at work is going to that conference that I'm not going to on Friday )
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ratherbe
Jun 18, 2008, 5:25 PM
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There was a brief bear sighting... Greg was working his way up the first pitch of Bishop's Terrace and I was belaying him when Jeremy casually said, "hey there's a bear." It was maybe 50 feet away, picking it's way across the talus between us and the road to the Awanhee Hotel.
When I try your way of adding pics, I get the little red x instead of a picture. :(
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