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Gmburns2000
Jun 29, 2008, 2:06 AM
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So weird, I guess we bumped into Amy on Funhouse (we were on Pooh) and again at Upper Refuse (we were on Black Lung while Cracklover, Ratherbe, and Ambler were on Book of Solemnity at the same time).
Interestingly small world.
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robbovius
Jun 29, 2008, 12:24 PM
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Greg, naah, perfectly logical thyat we'd run into each other at the odd crag here and there. we all climb, the popular climbing areas are well travelled. its more like why wouldn't we bump into one or another of us here or there? like when I was at the gunks with jJeff... walking down the carriage road boom look there's jeremy!
the world, while not exactly small, certainly is finite.
Todd, yeah it was good times. Table is worth the hike.
(This post was edited by robbovius on Jun 29, 2008, 12:25 PM)
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cracklover
Jun 29, 2008, 3:55 PM
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Had a good day at Cathedral, despite less than perfect conditions. Here's the view from the cars:
From left to right: Chris, Greg, Jen, and Larry. And above us all is Cathedral, completely enshrouded in clouds.
To start the day, Jen got a sweet onsight lead on Bombardment (5.8):
And Larry sees how well his new approach shoes work for climbing, as he follows Bombardment:
Then I wanted to lead Nutcracker (5.10a):
Which I managed to onsight.
Larry toproped it cleanly. Here he is pulling the crux move:
As did Jen:
Then Larry led Chicken Delight:
After that, we moved over to Book of Solemnity (5.10a). I led both pitches. I *barely* managed to keep on the rock on P1. I had previously fallen while leading this pitch. So it felt good to check that one off. It's really superb climbing. Sorry, no good pics of that on my camera.
Then we said goodbye to Larry, who had another commitment in the evening. We got great eats at The Muddy Moose, in Conway, and then headed home.
GO
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jakedatc
Jun 29, 2008, 5:53 PM
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Nice Gabe.. congrats on the Book. i'll stick to my A1 version of P1 ;)
kate and i should be headed to rumney next weekend if the weather cooperates.
This weekend i rode 35mi with a co worker sat. and did 25 today with a group ride.
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orangekyak
Jun 29, 2008, 6:19 PM
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Thanks for the fantastic pictorially rich TRs, Gabe and Rob.
That Cathedral day sounds great. Makes me want to drive 10 hours. Jen, how was The Bombardment? Gabe, OS of Nutcracker is impressive. So jealous you guys got to climb the book. Such nice rock ...
Back in PA after a day and a half of travel that included way too many hours in Dallas, a flight cancellation, airport change, two trains, and a five mile walk home to finish the odyssey. Still don't know where my luggage is (including climbing gear). What fun!
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cracklover
Jun 29, 2008, 6:43 PM
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Oh shit, sorry to hear it, Jeremy.
GO
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ambler
Jun 29, 2008, 7:17 PM
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While Jen belayed, I was the designated photog for Gabe's Book of Solemnity lead, done in full slime conditions.
Here's Jen cruising up the second pitch, which Gabe also led. By this time, the mist had turned to drizzle.
(This post was edited by ambler on Jun 29, 2008, 8:14 PM)
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ratherbe
Jun 29, 2008, 7:40 PM
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Yep Cathedral Saturday was a good day. I enjoyed Bombardment. There were a couple thoughful moments sprinkled in amongst grins. Until this year, a lot of what I led were climbs I'd seconded at some point in the past. So it's nice to get some onsights here and there.
Jeremy, sounds like forces were trying to keep you on the West coast! Hope you get your luggage back without further incident!
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seeker
Jun 29, 2008, 7:43 PM
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Hey Guys,
Robb, cool pics. Also worth noting we replaced the rappel slings on both pitches of Bugs Eat Frogs, and backed up the one on Holy Smoke (ran out of webbing), incase anyone else has an urge to check it out. I am looking forward to going back and trying Bugs Eat Frogs and Merlin, on a day without thunder and rain. 
Friday my pal Andy and I tried to complete a Cathedral link-up called "the 5.8 combination". The lack of detail in the guidebook and our unfamiliarity with the cliff led us up both pitches of Funhouse and then Retaliation (5.9) instead of Funhouse p1, Rollin and Tumblin, Orc, and then Black Lung (oh well). Saturday Alban and I climbed Funhouse and Upper Refuse in the fog. Now I know where Black Lung is, as we saw some of you folks over there and on The Book. Finished up the day down at the North End.
I almost never go to Cathedral or Whitehorse on a weekend, and now I know why. IMCS had two topropes set up on Thin Air's first pitch at noon on Saturday. What a pain. I mentioned it to one of the guys at IME when I got back to town and he said they usually try not to do that so he would look into it.
If anyone else ever wants to check out some other cliffs besides Whitehorse and Cathedral, I know how to get to most of them. Robb and I talked about maybe going to Woodchuck one of these days. It's not a bad approach and has a wide variety of climbs. The ones I'm still looking for are Found Ledge and Hobbitland. Anyone know where those are?
Cheers,
Amy
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core
Jun 29, 2008, 9:54 PM
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wow, folks are rippin' it up!
Yesterday I did this, which was niiiiice:
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jakedatc
Jun 29, 2008, 10:42 PM
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core wrote: wow, folks are rippin' it up! Yesterday I did this, which was niiiiice: [image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/crbrett/2008-06-27/IMG_0693-sm.jpg[/image]
you gotta keep up that svelte physique somehow ;)
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core
Jun 30, 2008, 1:27 AM
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jakedatc wrote: core wrote: wow, folks are rippin' it up! Yesterday I did this, which was niiiiice: [image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/crbrett/2008-06-27/IMG_0693-sm.jpg[/image] you gotta keep up that svelte physique somehow ;)
well, it was earned!
Alex's come-back
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Gmburns2000
Jun 30, 2008, 1:52 AM
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core wrote: jakedatc wrote: core wrote: wow, folks are rippin' it up! Yesterday I did this, which was niiiiice: [image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/crbrett/2008-06-27/IMG_0693-sm.jpg[/image] you gotta keep up that svelte physique somehow ;) well, it was earned! Alex's come-back
I love that route. First multi-pitch I ever did in the US. Fantastic.
Edit: changed the pic from the beer to the climb, so that my comments were relevant.
(This post was edited by Gmburns2000 on Jun 30, 2008, 1:57 PM)
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c4c
Jun 30, 2008, 3:11 AM
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core wrote: wow, folks are rippin' it up! Yesterday I did this, which was niiiiice: [image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/crbrett/2008-06-27/IMG_0693-sm.jpg[/image]
I'll take the dark one in the middle.
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orangekyak
Jun 30, 2008, 10:48 AM
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Is that Acadia?
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core
Jun 30, 2008, 1:32 PM
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Yep, it's Story of O. I have to admit that my favorite route of the weekend was a 5.5 called Wafer Step...absolutely wonderful climbing.
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burrito
Jun 30, 2008, 1:51 PM
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cracklover wrote: I can't identify the beer (looks delicious) - Atlantic Brewing company maybe? But that climb is *definitely* Acadia. I'm 90% certain it's Story of O. Superb climbing! Looks like a sweet weekend, Cory and Alex! Hope the weather was reasonably cooperative, and that when it wasn't you, um enjoyed being stuck inside with each other. Cheers! GO
Atlantic Brewing Co. it was! Also the site of my first carnivorous experience in over 3 years. Mmmm, BBQ chicken... 
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cracklover
Jun 30, 2008, 3:54 PM
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First *sober* carnivorous experience, you mean?
G
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jumaringjeff
Jun 30, 2008, 4:50 PM
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Nice to see everyone tearing it up on the rock these days. I just returned from several weeks of traveling. First it was Camden ME for my brother's wedding, then off to New Orleans for house-building with Habitat For Humanity.
The N.O. trip has changed me forever. I highly recommend a trip down there and visit the 9th ward. See for yourself what is (isn't) going on.
Anyways, I may be bringing a newbie out to Crow Hill on Sunday. Anyone want to join me?
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robbovius
Jun 30, 2008, 5:50 PM
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seeker wrote: Hey Guys, Robb, cool pics. Also worth noting we replaced the rappel slings on both pitches of Bugs Eat Frogs, and backed up the one on Holy Smoke (ran out of webbing), incase anyone else has an urge to check it out. I am looking forward to going back and trying Bugs Eat Frogs and Merlin, on a day without thunder and rain.
yeah forgot to mention that, next time I'll bring copious slingage so you don't have to use all yours up. ;-)
here are a couple short video clips from artists bluff and table (translation from the .mpg to .flv reduced the quality a bit damn it...)
Artist's bluff, and Robb finds snacks on Right Side Route P2...
http://s183.photobucket.com/...rts_Bluff_Bluets.flv
Table mnt, while rapping from the top of Holy Smoke, amy and I discuss whether we can make it to the bottom on a single rap...
http://s183.photobucket.com/...l_mnt_rapping_HS.flv
(This post was edited by robbovius on Jun 30, 2008, 5:54 PM)
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Gmburns2000
Jun 30, 2008, 6:32 PM
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Heh,
I like how you confirmed that it was a blueberry after you ate it. I'm sure it was safe, but it was funny, too.
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core
Jun 30, 2008, 7:22 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: Heh, I like how you confirmed that it was a blueberry after you ate it. I'm sure it was safe, but it was funny, too.
"Tastes like...buuuuurning."
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robbovius
Jun 30, 2008, 10:00 PM
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naw dudes! I distinctly remark, "...A Blueberry thicket on this small ledge..." just after showing the hex and cam placements. ;-)
I was so psyched! unfortunately at that point I was done with the best moves of that pitch, the rest was rather low-quality.
I still have to go back and try the 5.8 between Standard and Right side. I was looking at it at the end of the day wed. and I KNOW I can get it. I have come to understanding that pushing thru this 5.6 plateau leading plateau I've been on for the last couple years is purely a matter of upping the fear management. I know I can do the moves, but I just don't want to lead out side my comfy little box.
I'll post a couple more clips tomorrow. ;-)
(This post was edited by robbovius on Jun 30, 2008, 10:01 PM)
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seeker
Jul 1, 2008, 10:58 PM
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In my own defense, regarding that rappelling video- the rope was only about 10 feet short, not 100!
abc
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