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LucP
Mar 20, 2007, 6:02 PM
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Hi
I'm compiling a l list of the biggest, best, hardest, most technically difficult, unusual dynos to be found around the world. I've already got a load from France and the UK, and only few in the US, NZ, IT. I am struggling to develop my list for areas outside of the UK and France and so throw myself at your mercy! Can anyone help me with this. I need more dynos from the USA, South Africa, New Zealand, Italy, Japan, if you can think of a country with a dyno that fits the bill I'd really like to know about it.
Cheers
Luc
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bandycoot
Mar 20, 2007, 6:21 PM
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Belly Flop, at Black Mountain. It is rated V13 and has a hell of a (well named) landing if you fuck up. check out the movie Soul Cal. FA Chris Linder.
Josh
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thomasribiere
Mar 20, 2007, 6:33 PM
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I suppose you have the famous French "Hale Bopp" problem in Fontainebleau (in Franchard Cusinière I think). Long double dyno. Ranging from 7c+ to 8a+ according to the height of the climber.
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sungam
Mar 20, 2007, 6:47 PM
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LucP
Mar 20, 2007, 7:12 PM
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Thanks Josh.
That's going on my list tonight. I've seen So Cal and know the dyno you're talking about. Very very well named.
Cheers
Luc
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LucP
Mar 20, 2007, 7:14 PM
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Hi Thomas
Yes, this was one of the first on my list. Thanks for checking, though. Wasn't sure about the grade as it seems opinion is divided on this. Guess the problem's a bit morpho.
Cheers
Luc
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LucP
Mar 20, 2007, 7:17 PM
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Hi Magnus
This is what I've got on Scotland, so far....
Flying Pig
Cautious Lip
Main Issue
Flying Roofs
Jammed Block Dyno
Main Dyno
Pod Dyno
Sunsup
Dynosaur
Slaphappy
Pitt Dyno
Boomer Dyno
+ a dyno at Reiff In the Woods.
Scottish bouldering does look fantastic. I got a copy of Stone Country shortly after it came out and am looking forward to a trip up there sometime. Want to avoid the midges if I can help it...hate the little buggers....they're bad enough when I get to the Peak or even on places like Dartmoor.
If can add to the list that'd be great.
Cheers
Luc
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sungam
Mar 21, 2007, 9:15 PM
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sungam
Mar 21, 2007, 9:17 PM
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winglessangel
Mar 21, 2007, 9:26 PM
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Hi, I got one for you.
The name is "Bote Impossível" or "Impossible Dyno"
it is a Brazilian Xa equivalent to Yosemite 5.13c
It is located in the city of Rio de Janeiro, RJ, Brazil, inside Grajaú Natural Reserve.
here is link to a youtube video where some try it on sport and other as a highball. Daniel "Coçada" Hans sends it as a highball.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XWQyNDi0LLE
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winglessangel
Mar 21, 2007, 9:38 PM
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and on a curious note, if you ever write about dynos maybe you should add that.
The word we use, bote, for dynos is not a direct translation. No, that would be dinâmico.
Bote, in portuguese, is the name of that final jump predators do in order to cach their prey. Cool, hu?
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trenchdigger
Mar 21, 2007, 10:16 PM
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bandycoot wrote: Belly Flop, at Black Mountain. It is rated V13 and has a hell of a (well named) landing if you fuck up. check out the movie Soul Cal. FA Chris Linder. Josh
Yup... here's a pic of what happens if you blow the attempt.
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LucP
Mar 22, 2007, 7:06 AM
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Hi Magnus
Ah-haa! So the Reiff in the Woods problem has name! Thanks for that I can change it from Dyno to The Main Issue. And thanks for the Catch-22.
From a photo of The Main Issue you get the impression that there isn't much to it. However the video reveals all! Nice tree to scrape your back down if you fluff it. It reminds me of Feeling Rewind in Albarracin. When my mate David was working up to the FA he just kept hitting the tree. We strapped a crash pad to the tree to see if that'd easy things a bit. Apparently it still hurt as much!
Cheers
Luc
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LucP
Mar 22, 2007, 7:14 AM
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Hi Winglesassanel.
Thanks for this one. Very much appreciated.
I really like this one. It's high, real high, and it was great to see it being sent without a rope. Thanks for the "curiosity" with regards what you guy's call a dyno. I really like it. It'd be interesting to know what other people around the world call dynos. In the meantime I'm adding Bote to my dictionary as I think it's going to get used :-)
Let me know if you've got any more.
Cheers
Luc
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bent_gate
Mar 22, 2007, 8:03 AM
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trenchdigger wrote: bandycoot wrote: Belly Flop, at Black Mountain. It is rated V13 and has a hell of a (well named) landing if you fuck up. check out the movie Soul Cal. FA Chris Linder. Josh Yup... here's a pic of what happens if you blow the attempt. 
Wow. Even Neo wasn't able to do that in The Matrix...
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LucP
Mar 22, 2007, 8:12 AM
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Hey Josh
Thanks for this pic.
I really like it. Not sure I'd want to take that faceplant! I seem to remember it's not just a faceplant but a bit of a slide too?.
Bent_Gate...imagine if you could get a camera to do a rotating tracking shot around the climber frozen in mid air...and then catch the faceplant from another angle (al la Matrix).....now that'd be really cool ;-)
Cheers
Luc
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petje
Mar 22, 2007, 10:09 AM
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i stumbled over this ones
Jacadi
http://bleau.info/canche/158.html
and this one
le puce
http://bleau.info/canche/159.html
On http://you find all in bleau. duh!
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petje
Mar 22, 2007, 10:18 AM
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this is one of the nicest i've done.
http://bleau.info/sabots/771.html
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LucP
Mar 22, 2007, 11:36 AM
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Thanks for all of these. I am going to follow all of the links to get the names....I recognise most of them but can't remember all the names.
Cheers for this.
Luc
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petje
Mar 22, 2007, 12:33 PM
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It was not that hard. search bleau.info with the phrase: dyno.
As i said, there are more there to find!
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LucP
Mar 22, 2007, 12:48 PM
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Believe it or not I did do a search on "dyno" on Bleau.info and it came back say there were no routes of that name! And so thanks very much for successfully unearthing these.
The mass of dynos in Font is incredible. I am still struggling to find other ones from elsehwhere. Can you recommend other websites I might be able to search on?
Cheers
Luc
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liverspot
Mar 22, 2007, 1:09 PM
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There is a roof dyno not that high off the ground on Dover Island, Nova Scotia. I don't have the time to find any pics but I think it goes at V8. Basically you start way under the roof and you have to dyno straight horizontal and catch the lip. Out of my league but looked awesome.
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LucP
Mar 22, 2007, 1:15 PM
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Cool, nice one.....a bit more exotic w.r.t location :-)
Cheers for that one.
Luc
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petje
Mar 22, 2007, 1:34 PM
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try the german bouldersites!
http://www.stonevibes.de
http://www.boulderrausch.de
http://hwww.bouldering.de
http://www.kletternimnorden.de
http://www.ropeless.de
http://www.boulderholics.de
french
http://lezartistes.org/
http://www.zebloc.com/
austrian
http://www.overhang.at/
united kingdom
http://ukbouldering.com/
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/index.asp
http://www.climbonline.co.uk/north_wales_bouldering.htm
http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/index.html
ireland
http://www.theshortspan.com/
swiss
http://www.sloper.ch/sloper_mainh.php
Belgian
www.belclimb.net
www.grimpe.be
tec. tec
dyno's that comes into mind now are deliverance and the buxkstone dyno at the plantation in the peak district in england. Overly classics!
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