|
Gmburns2000
Jul 3, 2008, 8:01 PM
Post #20851 of 22774
(9531 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
|
Two new posts up: my trip with a few noted members above to Cathedral this past weekend (with pics in the link at the bottom), and Jeremiah's first free solo. My post is OK. His post is a really nice read. I strongly recommend it.
|
|
|
|
|
core
Jul 3, 2008, 9:21 PM
Post #20852 of 22774
(9519 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 29, 2003
Posts: 1102
|
well, I must have a pretty good imagination then!
|
|
|
|
|
jammer
Jul 3, 2008, 10:55 PM
Post #20853 of 22774
(9501 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 25, 2002
Posts: 3472
|
It's a couple of weeks away, but I'll be in Lancaster, NH for a couple of weeks, with weekends free. Cannon ... 45 minutes and N. Conway ... 1 hour. Anyone want to join me, let me know.
|
|
|
|
|
c4c
Jul 4, 2008, 12:52 PM
Post #20854 of 22774
(9474 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 18, 2006
Posts: 1279
|
jammer wrote: It's a couple of weeks away, but I'll be in Lancaster, NH for a couple of weeks, with weekends free. Cannon ... 45 minutes and N. Conway ... 1 hour. Anyone want to join me, let me know.
Tempting... but I need to save my $$ for my Colorado trip.
|
|
|
|
|
jammer
Jul 4, 2008, 3:15 PM
Post #20855 of 22774
(9456 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 25, 2002
Posts: 3472
|
c4c wrote: jammer wrote: It's a couple of weeks away, but I'll be in Lancaster, NH for a couple of weeks, with weekends free. Cannon ... 45 minutes and N. Conway ... 1 hour. Anyone want to join me, let me know. Tempting... but I need to save my $$ for my Colorado trip.
I don't blame you. If I could get away to Colorado, I'd go myself! Say Hi to Ben for me!!
|
|
|
|
|
Gmburns2000
Jul 4, 2008, 9:20 PM
Post #20856 of 22774
(9429 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
|
I finally got Day 3 up, titled Redemption. Wow, so long to write only an intro and three days. And just think, I've only got four days and a summary to go! 
|
|
|
|
|
core
Jul 6, 2008, 4:08 AM
Post #20857 of 22774
(9200 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 29, 2003
Posts: 1102
|
Beeeeer (is good).
It was nice seeing some new and old faces today - I'm not saying you're old Josh...
I am happy to report that the route went well. I had to pause on P3 and take a shot of the drop-out bomb bay chimney. My partner is down there somewhere...not sure if you can see him:
|
|
|
|
|
epoch
Moderator
Jul 7, 2008, 2:15 AM
Post #20858 of 22774
(9097 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2005
Posts: 32163
|
core wrote: Beeeeer (is good). It was nice seeing some new and old faces today - I'm not saying you're old Josh... I am happy to report that the route went well. I had to pause on P3 and take a shot of the drop-out bomb bay chimney. My partner is down there somewhere...not sure if you can see him:
It was good meeting all in attendance and swapping stories. To another day!!!!
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Jul 7, 2008, 3:03 AM
Post #20859 of 22774
(9089 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
3 full days at Rumney.. only sent a few fairly easy new things but flailed optimistically at some really hard things :)
many many attempts at Curl up and Fly .12a at Jimmy.. it will go it's just a matter of getting some good conditions to stick the dyno. thanks a ton to the FA Chris Smith for his kickass beta
tried Pretzel Logic .12a (or A0 as i did it) holy freakin hard.. /pushes to back burner
watched an acquaintance from LW crowd send Kundalini 12d in 3 burns.. dayyam i'll post some pics i took of that once kate loads them onto her 'puter.
Did Clippity do dah friday.. ate mucho blueberries on top.. did some 5.3-4 to the right of it saturday and collected even more :) Got some use out of the Reverso which i haven't been using lately but will be keeping on my harness instead of my ATC for now ( It was funny, saturday i had my ATC, Reverso and Cinch in the bag) I use the Cinch almost exclusively now unless i'm rapping or multipitch.. tho the cinch may do more of MP too since lowering is easier.
today i led every route at Lower New wave including a new .9+ called Bullwinkle goes Ballistic  warmed up on Sixth sense .6 barefoot to keep things interesting
climbed alot.. saw a ton of friends around at every crag. great weather all weekend.. I'm aiming to go back up when i get my vacation around July 18th till 24th if anyone is interested lemmie know
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Jul 7, 2008, 1:51 PM
Post #20860 of 22774
(9039 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
Nice, Jake!
Interesting shot, Cory.
Where I was, it rained solidly most of Friday and all of Saturday.
Sunday, I got in a 1/2 day of climbing at Crow Hill. Onsighted Cheetah(10b). No pics, sorry.
I think I've now led everything I know of worth doing at Crow Hill. Kind of a cool bookend to my East Coast climbing, since I remember how insanely hard all the moderates there felt to me (on TR) when I started climbing.
Cheers,
GO
|
|
|
|
|
BToohey
Jul 7, 2008, 5:10 PM
Post #20861 of 22774
(9001 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2008
Posts: 1
|
Hey I Just stumbled on this forum and I want to climb outside. Looking for someone living in Boston with a car that would be down with a road trip or two. |
|
|
|
|
evanburgess
Jul 7, 2008, 5:26 PM
Post #20862 of 22774
(8990 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2008
Posts: 1
|
Hey Dtoohey,
I'm new to town and looking for a climbing partner. I don't have a car either unfortunately. I am solid 5.10 sport lead and 5.8 trad lead. I can have fun climbing easier stuff too. I'd be up for mostly day trips and stuff around town. If you want to chat give me a call 303-819-6673.
|
|
|
|
|
Gmburns2000
Jul 7, 2008, 5:41 PM
Post #20863 of 22774
(8980 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
|
Just got Day #1 of Lover's Leap up. I'll have an Acadia post up, too, in the next couple of days. Enjoy folks.
Greg
|
|
|
|
|
wonderwoman
Jul 7, 2008, 6:55 PM
Post #20864 of 22774
(8962 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 14, 2002
Posts: 4275
|
My 4th of July summary:
Beer and food with friends at the Moat Mtn. House.
Dinner, beer and fireworks at the lunch ledge for the 4th of July.
Favorite weekend send: Hotter Than Hell to Inferno
Pool at 'The Club', a major sunburn, and lodging at a No-Tell-Motel.
Great weekend!!!
|
|
|
|
|
olderic
Jul 7, 2008, 7:21 PM
Post #20865 of 22774
(8949 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 1539
|
cracklover wrote: I think I've now led everything I know of worth doing at Crow Hill. GO
Have you done Watusi, Topaz, Diagnonal, Fool on the Hill, The Maiden?. You are overly capable for those - but you should do them to complete your card.
Two routes come to mind that I think would be perfect for you - just barely capable of and high quality. Lizard's Head. Incredible position and very enduro. Good gear but you have to work to get it. I have TR-ed it quite a number of times but my one lead attempt (outside of a solo aid lead 30+ years ago) ended up as a 2 hanger. But I highly recommend it. The only issue is how to set up the belay. There used to be a nice block at the base where you could set up a hanging belay - I guess the block wasn't so solid..... So you are going to have to concoct something if you want a bealyer right at the base of the difficulties (ideal).
The other route is The Recidivist. This one is a little harder and sketchier with the gear. I have never tried to lead it even in the old days when it bristled with fixed pins. Placing the gear on lead would vertianly be impressive - most people pre-place. Likewise on that wall you have Bev's Bewilderment and After the Gold rush. Both leadable although I sure wouldn't try without pre placed gear.
But I bet there is plenty left you you do do at Crow. If you get a chance before you leave Lizard's Head is defnitely woryhwhile.
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Jul 7, 2008, 8:46 PM
Post #20866 of 22774
(8935 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
olderic wrote: cracklover wrote: I think I've now led everything I know of worth doing at Crow Hill. GO There is a (not so?) subtle difference between "worth doing" and "capable" of doing. Dune is worth doing. Absolute is worth doing.
To clarify: I guess some routes seem close enough to my grasp to seem within the realm of possibility, while others seem far enough out that I literally don't even see them. Seriously, Dune doesn't look like a route to me. I think I once saw folks working it on toprope. And if you asked me to pick it out now, I doubt I could. There's a big difference between that, and, say Jane - which just begs to be climbed. While it's likely that if i climbed that hard, my perceptions would change, I can only really speak from where I am and what I see.
In reply to: Have you done Watusi, In reply to: Fool on the Hill, In reply to: You are overly capable for those - but you should do them to complete your card. Two routes come to mind that I think would be perfect for you - just barely capable of and high quality. Lizard's Head. Incredible position and very enduro. Good gear but you have to work to get it. I have TR-ed it quite a number of times but my one lead attempt (outside of a solo aid lead 30+ years ago) ended up as a 2 hanger. But I highly recommend it. The only issue is how to set up the belay. There used to be a nice block at the base where you could set up a hanging belay - I guess the block wasn't so solid..... So you are going to have to concoct something if you want a bealyer right at the base of the difficulties (ideal).
I think I tried to TR this once, back in the day. If I recall, it's a finger crack that thins to a seam, and finally peters out. The game was to see how high we could get. None of us got anywhere near the top. But yeah, it's a good idea - I should see what it looks like with new eyes.
In reply to: The other route is The Recidivist. This one is a little harder and sketchier with the gear. I have never tried to lead it even in the old days when it bristled with fixed pins. Placing the gear on lead would vertianly be impressive - most people pre-place. Likewise on that wall you have Bev's Bewilderment and After the Gold rush. Both leadable although I sure wouldn't try without pre placed gear. But I bet there is plenty left you you do do at Crow. If you get a chance before you leave Lizard's Head is defnitely woryhwhile.
Poor gear, and at or above my limit difficulty-wise, is not appealing to me. I just don't have the patience for headpointing. Probably wouldn't have the balls for it if i tried, anyway. No harm in the suggestion, though.
Finally, I sense that you're reacting to an implied put-down. I can see why you might think that by suggesting that I've climbed all there is to climb, I'm maligning Crow Hill. And further, that I'm implying that all those other climbs are crap. No such thing was meant. All I really meant was that pretty much everything I came across, and got excited about, I've now done. It's unlikely that I'll get back to Crow Hill before I move, but if I should find myself back there some years from now, I hope I remember some of your recommendations.
Cheers,
GO
(This post was edited by cracklover on Jul 7, 2008, 8:53 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
olderic
Jul 7, 2008, 8:57 PM
Post #20867 of 22774
(8929 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 1539
|
No I really wasn't being crotchety (for once). I do think you would really like Lizard's Head and if you got it would be very pleased. I agree that some of those climbs are rather non-descript face climbs and if your line is drawn to the cracks (Cro Mag and Jane) they might not seem that striking. But I think Lizard's Head is equally striking. And quite safe. The other hard ones are going to be headpoints to some extent I agree. I did manage to TR Dune once but it certainly wasn't with authority. And one of the scariest times I have had in 40 years climbing was belaying my son when he headpointed it. No I don't think headpointing is my thing at all.
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Jul 7, 2008, 11:17 PM
Post #20868 of 22774
(8896 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
Couple pics i took of a kid i know Danny from RI on Kundalini .12d
horizontal knee bar.. bomber
drop kneeee ;)
|
|
|
|
|
Gmburns2000
Jul 8, 2008, 10:39 PM
Post #20869 of 22774
(8751 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
|
Took my cousin climbing for her first time outside this past weekend. We took on South Bubble in Acadia. She had a weekend of firsts: first lead belay, first outdoor climb, first rappel. It was a nice weekend overall. I've put the post up as well as a link to pics at the bottom.
Greg
|
|
|
|
|
core
Jul 9, 2008, 3:50 AM
Post #20870 of 22774
(8729 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 29, 2003
Posts: 1102
|
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Jul 9, 2008, 4:05 AM
Post #20871 of 22774
(8722 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
That's bonsai Cory.. nice pics too
|
|
|
|
|
Gmburns2000
Jul 9, 2008, 1:10 PM
Post #20872 of 22774
(8675 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
|
core wrote: I like the stories and pictures! Also, I'm always amazed by how beautiful the rock is at Waimea. If you're bored at work here's a summary of my most recent North Conway experience...and that it was. I forgot to mention in the slideshow that there were other interesting factors that contributed to our adventure: During "Part 1": 1. While driving up up to NoCo, we ran out of gas...coasted into the gas station at 12:30 AM with a surging car. 2. We got sprinkled on while we bivied - that should have been a sign. For Part 2: 1. I left the water and guide book at home. 2. We decided that, since we were now traveling lightly, that we should leave the second rope in the car.
Holy crap dude! Sounds like a nice adventure...if you're into that sort of thing. Well done! Though I'm curious to know why the second rope was important.
|
|
|
|
|
texeverlasting
Jul 9, 2008, 5:19 PM
Post #20873 of 22774
(8600 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 4, 2007
Posts: 7
|
Hooray for Acadia! That was my first full-length (9 days) climbing trip last summer. You didn't want to drop her off Otter Cliffs for her first time? :-P My "first" did that to me...not there, in Utah, but similar effect. Did you do anything on what I think is called the Canadian wall? It might be something with more words, but I'm pretty sure "Canadian" is in there somewhere. We tried, hiked around, got lost on a monster talus field, got back to the original wall, then got rained on. No bueno. Good week though. I'm jealous. :-)
|
|
|
|
|
Gmburns2000
Jul 9, 2008, 5:34 PM
Post #20874 of 22774
(9671 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
|
texeverlasting wrote: Hooray for Acadia! That was my first full-length (9 days) climbing trip last summer. You didn't want to drop her off Otter Cliffs for her first time? :-P My "first" did that to me...not there, in Utah, but similar effect. Did you do anything on what I think is called the Canadian wall? It might be something with more words, but I'm pretty sure "Canadian" is in there somewhere. We tried, hiked around, got lost on a monster talus field, got back to the original wall, then got rained on. No bueno. Good week though. I'm jealous. :-)
We just went to South Bubble and played on the Upper Slab there. We didn't hit Otter for a few reasons: tide wasn't perfect, we're both from BH and try to stay away from the hot touristy spots if possible, and she was heading outside for her first time ever. We were looking for something super easy without the other headaches and hassles. I haven't climbed at Otter for several years.
Glad you liked it though. There's so much to do there overall. I kind of wish I climbed more in Acadia whenever I go home, but I'm OK with not getting out too much. It's always family first, and despite the insanity in my family, they're OK. 
|
|
|
|
|
wonderwoman
Jul 9, 2008, 6:20 PM
Post #20875 of 22774
(9816 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 14, 2002
Posts: 4275
|
texeverlasting wrote: Did you do anything on what I think is called the Canadian wall? It might be something with more words, but I'm pretty sure "Canadian" is in there somewhere.
It's Canada Cliffs, right?
|
|
|
|
|
|
