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saltlaketrails
Jun 15, 2003, 11:46 PM
Post #51 of 54
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Registered: Aug 11, 2002
Posts: 8
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Just about 2 years ago, I had a similar fall--where gear ripped and I decked. Reading this post brings back horrible memroies, but also important lessons. I too forgot to put on my helmet, but I never will again. That I am walking, breathing, and climbing is almost unbelievable, and I hope Ms. B will enjoy a similarly miracoulus recovery!
As for the placements, I think the obvious point has been made that small cam placements are tricky and care must be taken both on the selection of size and to make sure the cam doesn't walk into a larger size slot.
Looking at the photos of the route, it looks much like the route I fell off of, in the sense that it looks as if good placements abound. The lesson from my fall was to place lots and lots of gear when you're anywhere close to the ground or a ledge. I think of my gear placements like I think of setting up a bomber belay station. Until I have three solid pieces placed that can keep me from hitting the ground, I'm going to keep looking for good placements to back things up. Especially when you get to a good stance or a ledge, like you see in the pictures of this route, take the time to put something in that you can trust your life to. Otherwise, if it's a hard section and there's no good stance coming soon, I'd rather pump out placing gear than pump out climbing above questionable gear.
Reading through all the posts, I'm not sure another point has been made. I recommend new trad leaders leading many, many, many routes far below their ability level--where falls are much less likely--before trying to lead anything with tricky pro or anything near your level of ability. Also, cleaning gear or placing gear at the bottom of the crag doesn't teach you how to select and place the right piece while you're in a strenous/akward position. Before leading anything hard, I'd suggest placing gear on toprope on a route near your limit. If you can't grab the right size and place it correctly when you're straining at your limit....then don't try it!
Best wishes to B....and climb safe.
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ptone
Jun 16, 2003, 3:15 AM
Post #52 of 54
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Registered: Mar 5, 2003
Posts: 350
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Thanks for replying.
I was going to ask a related gear question, but I'll use a new post.
climb safe!
peace
-p
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the_pirate
Jun 26, 2003, 4:24 AM
Post #53 of 54
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Registered: May 20, 2003
Posts: 3984
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Wow.... Phil, thank you for posting this. Many people brought up good points about the cams being too small for the placements and needing to place the micro cams at near their full retraction. I hope we can all learn a lesson from this. Please people, please practice your gear placements so that some good can be taken from this tragedy.
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froman
Jun 26, 2003, 5:26 AM
Post #54 of 54
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Registered: Sep 17, 2002
Posts: 85
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many thanks to all for the info here - this is a great analysis for fledgling leaders like me...
although i am a novice at trad, i would still like to emphasize the importance of placements and protecting near ledges and stuff...the other day i did a mock lead (basically led the route with the other end of the rope, placing gear on toprope) of a route that was well within my ability level...halfway up i placed a marginal hex (the crack is all flaring to the back and ragged and difficult to protect)...climbed up to a ledge where there were no placements, then slipped on a loose pebble and took a tumble. if i had actually been leading, i would have first broken my back on a sharp pointy rib of rock below the hex, the hex would have pulled, i would have decked, and i probably would be dead right now (i had already placed a bunch of pieces below the hex but they wouldn't have mattered)
i have taken a gear placement course and have seconded a bunch and have done a bunch of mock leads - but still - i learned so much from this one fall and was thoroughly humbled. now i don't want to lead until i am waaay more experienced with gear placement - doing a course and inspecting gear is no way preparation for a novice lead - there's no substitute for placing hundreds of pieces in a safe environment). fortunately i learned this while on toprope - instead of carrying with me the illusion that i was placing gear well where an actual fall would've been disastrous...not only did i learn that i need to place gear well, but i need to place gear smart - especially around ledges, evaluating the circumstances of a fall. anyway, for any novices like me who are gungho about getting into trad leading - make sure you know what you're doing with your gear!!! there's a lot on the line...
thanks again for the info, great job
cheers phil
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