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Climbing... physical or mental?
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phil_nev


Dec 19, 2001, 6:52 AM
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Hey guys,
As a person who has only been climbing a short while i have noticed that in many climbs i have attempted, if i am not confident in myself i will not succed. Also, when attempting a difficult move, esspesialy when ur arms are buring, it's like mind over matter, u have to put the pain aside, and it has helped me a lot?
I was just wondering what u guys thought about this, i agree that strenght does play a part in it, but is climbing realy a tthing of mind over matter??
Thanks


jstumpf


Dec 19, 2001, 8:17 AM
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For me, at least, it's not a matter of one over the other, but a balance between the two, with each building off the other. As my mental abilities get sharper and my courage and tenacity build, my body grows stronger as well. And, as my body gets stronger, it builds my confidence and therefore my tenacity (as well as my climbing ability), etc...


naturalhigh


Dec 21, 2001, 3:36 AM
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Climbing: 80% mental, 20% physical

Obviously, if you don't have the physical strength or endurance, it doesn't matter how much you believe you can do it, it won't happen. But I still think that confidence and mental ingenuity play heavily into ones ability to climb. Figuring out how the balance will work out, or simply being able to ignore the pain in your tortured fingers as you jam that crack... =)


totigers


Dec 16, 2002, 4:07 AM
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Not sure about the odds but I agree with NaturalHigh.


jds100


Dec 16, 2002, 4:24 AM
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[small]This topic was moved to the Beginners forum by jds100[/small]


rock_diva


Dec 16, 2002, 3:24 PM
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The top climber that I've ever met gave me this breakdown when I asked a similar question:
33% mental
33% strength
33% technique

{yep, I also noticed there's a missing 1%}


otherain


Dec 16, 2002, 3:29 PM
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i have always been told that the mind gives up long before the body actully does. never give up, always go for that last move even though you dont think you can get it. you would be surprised what you might be able to do. even if you miss it you building each that is included in each of the 33% from previous.


ps 1% good looks.

[ This Message was edited by: otherain on 2002-12-16 07:30 ]


whitenight


Dec 16, 2002, 3:53 PM
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I believe that climbing is both mental and physical. I have been on climbs that I could not hold on any longer and lost it...maybe if I was a little stronger I could have held, but maybe if I was a little wiser I would have choosen better moves and saved some of my energy. I believe that as long as you don't have a mental challenge to get over, such as fear of heights, falls, etc., then your mental game will develop along with your physical.


mwbtle


Dec 16, 2002, 4:24 PM
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Well, personal experience has told me that its tons mental. If I don't know the grade, I climb about a grade higher than if I do. And when I'm bouldering, I do all sorts of crazy things I wouldn't do 30 feet off the deck. Because I'm not afraid of getting hurt, because of spotters and padding and such. So its a matter of being as good as your technique and strength allow. Because when the mental isn't there, you can't be as good as you are.


climblouisiana


Dec 16, 2002, 5:16 PM
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Depends on the type of route. a powerful sport route might be 80% physical and 20% mental while a runout route with 1 piece of pro in 200' might be 80% mental and 20% physical.


spydermonkey


Dec 16, 2002, 11:27 PM
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Definately a mental sport. Sure you need strength but it is a very thoughtout sport, planning your next move, building up guts to dyno to the next hold, etc.

spyder


jen_c


Dec 16, 2002, 11:50 PM
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There is a class available that helps you work on the mental side of climbing: The Warrior's Way taught by Arno Ilgner. He also has books available for those unable to attend the class. I highly recommend it. I have taken the class and learned a lot from it. His web site is www.warriorsway.com


Partner missedyno


Dec 17, 2002, 1:24 AM
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yeah, a surprising amount is mental... i find this especially on lead.... i can climb (TR) confidently a full 4 grades higher than i lead.....


holmeslovesguinness


Dec 17, 2002, 1:33 AM
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At the lower grades, if you are in shape and strong you can grunt your way through. The harder the climb, the more the mental and technique aspects kick in.


wv5ten


Dec 17, 2002, 1:48 AM
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i find that 80 or 90 % of what keeps me from throwing that next move or standing up on something to reach is mental.


moabbeth


Dec 17, 2002, 2:35 AM
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While strength and technique are important, I find most of my successes and failiures while climbing come from the mental aspect. On days where I'm in a good place in my head I can accomplish a lot...and when my head isn't right I don't accomplish what I am physically capable of.


climbingjunky


Dec 17, 2002, 4:04 AM
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99% INSPIRATION 1% PERSPIRATION


hellbent


Dec 17, 2002, 7:28 PM
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Its all about harmony......


cloudbreak


Dec 17, 2002, 7:37 PM
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I'm with Indy .......lol! .....funny s#!t!!



baza_arrampicare


Dec 18, 2002, 8:57 AM
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mental...it's all in how ytou veiw things. screw ratings...


overlord


Dec 18, 2002, 10:00 AM
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both sides are imoprtant. if youre fisicaly well prepared, you know it and youre mentally stronger. and this keeps you climbing better. usually it doesnt really matter how strong you are or how much endurance you have, if youre a coward who doesnt dare to do the moves because he is afraid he might scratch his knee.

got the point????

CLIMB ON


gravical


Dec 18, 2002, 11:49 AM
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yeah - definitely mentally, and not only in confidence, but i found that when i had a bad day i climb worse than when i had a good day, also, i climb pretty well when angry


sroehlk


Dec 18, 2002, 11:23 PM
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I completely agree with the 33% mental, 33% strength, and 33% technique! I always have my nemesis route that plays mind games with me.


pyrohalfronium-hozer
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Dec 20, 2002, 3:14 AM
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Definitely. Your confidence on a climb also controls how much your hands are sweating, and thus how much time you have to waste chalking up and how much harder it is to use those tricky holds. This is something that happens to me only on hard leads at this point in my climbing career, funny eh?


psalmadventurer


Dec 21, 2002, 10:47 PM
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I will go with what Yogi Berra said about baseball on this one:
"90% of the game is half mental."


But, on a more serious note, this is an interesting article, if someone has not already posted the link:
http://www.indoorclimbing.com/mental.html
~jenn

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