|
off_route
Dec 28, 2004, 5:19 AM
Post #1 of 138
(22136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 28, 2004
Posts: 88
|
This is for all of you who have taken huge whippers on lead, or even little baby falls. What piece arrested your fall? Did anything else pop out before you were caught? Has this made you buy triplicates of one piece and use others for paperweights?
BTW Bolts don't count, uless they popped of course, I would listen to that story!
Off_Route
|
|
|
|
|
chossmonkey
Dec 28, 2004, 6:45 AM
Post #2 of 138
(22136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 28414
|
The last fall I took on trad gear was somewhere around a 20 footer onto a #0 (purple) Metoliuos TCU. It held quite well, though it was towards the end of the pitch so all the rope stretch made the fall feel pretty soft. The TCU was about five feet below me when I fell.
It was on the West Face of Devil's Tower. It would have been great to see the look on the tourons faces when I popped. "Oh my God, he's going to die!" :lol:
|
|
|
|
|
killer_crag_move
Dec 28, 2004, 6:45 AM
Post #3 of 138
(22136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 21
|
A little over a year ago I took about a 10-footer on my first placement, a chalk. Dont remember the size but it was pretty small. I had It placed in a small crack. It was a scary fall and I was glad it held.
However, as I was hanging there trying to catch my breath, the chalk gave. The chalk smacked my head as I decked. It was one of the few times I wasnt wearing a helmet.
4 stiches in my head where the chalk hit and a broken tail bone and sprained wrist from when I hit the ground. Luckily I was only about 7 feet off the deck. That was my first and only climbing accident in the 14 years ive been climbing.
You wont watch me without a helmet if im leading. I also witnessed a friend take a lead fall and smack into an opposing dihedral. He busted up his elbow pretty good, and we were certain the helmet saved his live.
|
|
|
|
|
holdplease2
Dec 28, 2004, 6:49 AM
Post #4 of 138
(22136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 18, 2002
Posts: 1733
|
A pretty big one onto a blue Alien, probably 20 feet.
A very very very very big one onto a red DMM stopper. (The "booty nut", john.) It was probably 60 feet and scared the bejeeses out of me.
-Kate.
|
|
|
|
|
rrrADAM
Dec 28, 2004, 6:53 AM
Post #5 of 138
(22136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553
|
Have taken two 40+ footers...
One on a Yellow Alien on the soft Navajo Sandstone of Castleton Tower, nothing pulled.
Another on a #9 Stopper placed sideways in patina flakes on the granite of Mt Lemon. That piece held, but I did zipper the first 2 stoppers due to the angle of the rope pulling the pieces up and out in relation to my belay. I now try to always place a cam first, as they will rotate in this instance making them multidirectional in a sense.
Have taken too many smaller falls to count... mainly on stoppers ( I love stoppers), and a few on cams. Only pulled one piece top piece in all my falls, and I knew this one was mank, so it was backed up, and the backup held.
|
|
|
|
|
boltdude
Dec 28, 2004, 6:57 AM
Post #6 of 138
(22136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2002
Posts: 685
|
Let's see... nothing big, but for what it's worth:
HB 2 1/2 quadcam (hand size), 20 foot fall, first lead fall (also first 5.9 lead, pitch 2 of Central Pillar in Yosemite - also first good lesson in crack tunnel vision, since I didn't notice the second crack only 3 feet left)
HB 2 quadcam (thin hand), 20 foot fall, first pulled gear (dicey placement of a #4 Hex in a parallel crack), first 10c lead (Waverly Wafer, Yosemite)
Orange Metolius TCU, 10 foot fall out of a roof crack (first ascent), broke a huge hold
Red Lowe Ball (#2), 10 foot fall on a first ascent, broken hold
Only falls that come to mind right away. Not counting tons of short falls/takes on gear.
|
|
|
|
|
gunksgoer
Dec 28, 2004, 7:03 AM
Post #7 of 138
(22136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 1290
|
u would think people would answer this with "my new favorite piece"...
|
|
|
|
|
holdplease2
Dec 28, 2004, 7:08 AM
Post #8 of 138
(22136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 18, 2002
Posts: 1733
|
I'm more worried about my "next favorite piece..." if you know what I mean. ;)
-Kate.
|
|
|
|
|
lazide
Dec 28, 2004, 7:11 AM
Post #9 of 138
(22136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2002
Posts: 225
|
Hmm, last fall was a 20ft fall onto a rusty #1 Copperhead on El Cap, after the rusted out head I had been on finally broke (and it held!). The one before that it was a short 6ft fall onto a #6 BD Stopper behind a loose flake (bomber!).
And if sport counts, I did take a (very fun!) 45 winger onto a bomber 3/8 bolt a couple years back, heh.
BTW, how did you get that 60ft winger Kate? Aid or free? Spill the beans!! :)
|
|
|
|
|
killer_crag_move
Dec 28, 2004, 7:14 AM
Post #10 of 138
(22136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 21
|
In reply to: I'm more worried about my "next favorite piece..." if you know what I mean. ;) -Kate.
hrmm, explain. In great detail please :D
|
|
|
|
|
holdplease2
Dec 28, 2004, 7:15 AM
Post #11 of 138
(22136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 18, 2002
Posts: 1733
|
Howdy, Lazide, you've been quiet...
I was aiding in zion...walking, ahem, "bomber" cams (yellow and green aliens). I wasn't paying close enough attention, selected one a size too small (blue), add that to a little rock grind and I had about 130 feet of line out, and wow. Won't do that again. First aid fall.
I had enough time to realize I was falling and then stare at the grigri on my harness and wonder if it would catch. It did.
-Kate.
|
|
|
|
|
healyje
Dec 28, 2004, 8:11 AM
Post #12 of 138
(22136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
|
Saturday before last out at Beacon took a ride on a Metolius #1 TCU unexpectedly with a shower of shards from a handhold that cut.
|
|
|
|
|
holdplease2
Dec 28, 2004, 8:15 AM
Post #13 of 138
(22136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 18, 2002
Posts: 1733
|
Easy, Killer... ;)
I mean I'm wondering which piece will catch the next fall.
:)
-Kate
|
|
|
|
|
mntnman1973
Dec 28, 2004, 8:15 AM
Post #14 of 138
(22136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 17, 2003
Posts: 46
|
My first and only lead fall was on "A Womans Work Is Never Done" 10c in J-Tree. That also was my first lead on anything above 5.8 in J-Tree. It was on a #1 Trango tcu just below the crux. I oozed right off at the nasty smear near the top. It ended up being about a 12 footer.
|
|
|
|
|
the_dude
Dec 29, 2004, 4:57 AM
Post #15 of 138
(22136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 30, 2003
Posts: 221
|
I had a cinch hanger blow on me up on El Cap (The swaging on the hanger was bunk). I was all relaxed after getting off a short string of marginal placements and resting on the rivit when it blew. I took about a 30 footer and was caught by a blue alien. When I jugged back up to the peice and took a look at it, I saw all the lobes hanging out of the crack.. the trigger was holding me! I just about soiled myself.
Cheers
|
|
|
|
|
dirtineye
Dec 29, 2004, 8:19 PM
Post #16 of 138
(22136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2003
Posts: 5590
|
Let's see, Big cams, (as big as the number 6 friend) little cams, (the green zero friend) various nuts and tricams in just about every size, ballnutz, sometimes in semi anchors under a crux, sometimes singly, some falls short some longer, all uneventful.
|
|
|
|
|
lazyjammin
Dec 29, 2004, 9:02 PM
Post #17 of 138
(22136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 2, 2004
Posts: 200
|
Took the twelve foot fall onto a number three metolius power cam in a flared horizonatl slot just big enough to fit the cam. It was the only piece between me and the ground, man was I happy that that thing held.
|
|
|
|
|
angry
Dec 29, 2004, 9:08 PM
Post #18 of 138
(22136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
|
Unless I'm mistaken, Castleton is wingate, not Navajo.
I fell 10 feet on the Navajo of Potash road on a black alien. It kept me off the ground.
I once clipped some fixed webbing that looked like beef jerky, it held too.
I pulled a bolt out of the rock, looked at it and stuffed it back in and clipped it. I didn't fall on it but it might have held.
I self arrested with a hand jam once, pure luck, I couldn't do that again.
I've taken several good size falls on little nuts and blue aliens, some even on ball nuts.
|
|
|
|
|
thewyseclimber
Dec 29, 2004, 9:28 PM
Post #19 of 138
(22136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 3, 2004
Posts: 179
|
In reply to: I self arrested with a hand jam once, pure luck, I couldn't do that again.
And would you WANT to do that again? Sounds like it might be painful...
|
|
|
|
|
dinglestyle
Dec 30, 2004, 1:10 AM
Post #20 of 138
(22136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 27, 2003
Posts: 74
|
Blue Roise 5.8+
#8 Wild County Stopper
Ye Gods 5.8
Fixed lost Arrow piton
Fly with the Falcons 5.11
#00 gray cam (smallist gear i have fallen on it was a short 6-8ft fall)
Un-named (Seneca 5.8-9)
#1 Black D cam
|
|
|
|
|
cgranite
Dec 30, 2004, 1:35 AM
Post #21 of 138
(22136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 5, 2003
Posts: 366
|
#6 Metolius Powercam- 15 ft. fall
I wasn't very far past the piece, but I suppose my belayer had me loose.
|
|
|
|
|
micronut
Dec 30, 2004, 1:47 AM
Post #22 of 138
(22136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 11, 2002
Posts: 1760
|
In reply to: What piece arrested your fall? Did anything else pop out before you were caught?
I've fallen many times, with a few 20'+. I took a 20 footer onto an old #3 stopper with not that much rope out and it held, although my belayer jumped, which had to help. The only piece I've ever pulled in 12+ years was a #00 tcu, poorly placed when I was gripped on a crystal. Fortuately, I had a nest of small wires a few feet below.
In reply to: Has this made you buy triplicates of one piece and use others for paperweights? Off_Route
Depends on where I'm climbing. On granite, a double set of cams for sure, maybe even triple #1's and #2's if I'm using camalots, with some nuts. At other areas, a double set of nuts, with small cams mostly. My favorite piece is the yellow metolius, and I always carry 2, and they save my head if not my ass on almost every route.
|
|
|
|
|
mtnjohn
Dec 30, 2004, 9:13 PM
Post #24 of 138
(22136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 17, 2002
Posts: 230
|
A while back I took +/- 40'er onto a #7 stopper.
It held fine.
Also, i took about a 15'er on Catchy Corner onto a small (can't remember which) quad cam, it blew and added another 10'-12' to the next small quad, it held.
|
|
|
|
|
healyje
Dec 31, 2004, 9:38 AM
Post #25 of 138
(22136 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
|
Thinking about it, over the years I've really fallen on pretty much my entire rack at one time or another and multiple times on most of the small-mid size cams and mid-large size nuts.
Probably the most notable are a 30 footer onto a #3 Crack N' Up. I have always used them for free climbing pro - but, you have to have them slung right for the webbing to not be cut on a fall.
Lots of falls on a spider web ring of equalized small brassies where we really plowed through a bunch of Air Voyagers (think early Screamers); we pre-sliced the Air Voyagers with a steep diagonal cut through about 6 bar tacks to give the web of pieces time to equalize; most of the falls were 30+ feet and a typical fall would take out about 15-20 bars.
And I've taken endless dives on all my ball nuts. I have never had one pop and no they aren't hard to clean, in fact I've never had one that didn't come right out after multiple falls.
Once I took a short dive and avoided dying on a small wired peck placed end-for-end with the rope falling through the gate on clipping as I fell.
|
|
|
|
|
rendog
Dec 31, 2004, 1:19 PM
Post #26 of 138
(14930 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 2468
|
best yet was a 25 footer onto a BD #2. happened for a stoopid reason, but still, if that one blew then I was going 50' and would've crashed shoulder first into the top of a huge detatched pillar. wouldn't have walked away form that one let me tell you that
First fall on gear was a 12 footer onto a #00 metolious cam. didn't even budge. scared the living hell outa me though. it was one of those "Hey this climb isn't so..." pop and away we go...
|
|
|
|
|
areyoumydude
Jan 2, 2005, 4:23 PM
Post #27 of 138
(14930 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 28, 2003
Posts: 1971
|
In reply to: Have taken two 40+ footers... One on a Yellow Alien on the soft Navajo Sandstone of Castleton Tower, nothing pulled.
Castleton is the most bomber Windgate sandstone in the desert.
I took a 30 footer on lucy in the sky over potash With the rope behind my leg :oops: . I was caught by a # 5 metolius fcu. That cam is now too small for the same placement. Now that is soft navajo sandstone.
|
|
|
|
|
dredsovrn
Jan 2, 2005, 4:29 PM
Post #28 of 138
(14930 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 24, 2003
Posts: 1226
|
#1 Metolius TCU is my favorite piece. It seems to go in on nearly every pitch, and it held my first trad fall (8-10'). It was my first piece on the route.
|
|
|
|
|
pt
Jan 2, 2005, 4:55 PM
Post #29 of 138
(14930 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 29, 2003
Posts: 400
|
15 footer onto a marginal #2 HB offset - it Held!
20 footer onto a fixed #9 stopper high on the Yellow Wall on the Diamond (Scary)- it Pulled! Luckily I had a back up piece about 4 feet below it.
(BTW, Castleton is Windgate)
|
|
|
|
|
betyerbottomdollar
Jan 2, 2005, 4:57 PM
Post #30 of 138
(14930 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 26, 2004
Posts: 15
|
A few years ago I was climbing in NZ leading a first ascent multi-pitch down in the South Island...halfway up and into the day I took a whipper about six feet above the last piece (I was setting the next). But it wasn't the Metolius nut that caught me, it was the limb sticking out of the rock that I instinctively grabbed onto on my way down! I dunno what kind of tree it was, but I was glad it was there. The bird nesting on the end of it wasn't too happy and neither was my belayer, but it was the limb that saved my fall.
|
|
|
|
|
chico
Jan 3, 2005, 12:33 AM
Post #31 of 138
(14930 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 28, 2004
Posts: 39
|
Oh boy, Took a ten footer onto a turquoise #10 smiley face, that was tenuiously placed into irregular Rhyolite in Lassen Volcanic park. Being the weak puss that I am, I slithered out of the off-width and went a-flyin'. Well, the stopper blew, and my happy little ten footer became a horrifying 30 footer with the rope around my leg. When the next piece held, the rope spun me sideways. I just about bashed my teeth out on the top of a pillar below me. I could feel my lips brush past the rock. I was O.K. but rather spooked by my "brush" with disaster. The piece that held?...A dinky assed HB taper that I almost took it off my rack before the climb.!Viva la micro-pro!
|
|
|
|
|
giza
Jan 3, 2005, 1:03 AM
Post #32 of 138
(14930 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 22, 2003
Posts: 315
|
Hmmmm (removing cobwebs from smoked out brain)...first lead fall was a few meters and was on a #1 metolius nut...lots of falls on small camalots, nuts and tcu's. The last was fall I took was the result of doing a layback on wet granite....landed on a #2 power cam. I don't think I've fallen on anything larger than a #2 camalot but can hardly wait.
|
|
|
|
|
phugganut
Jan 3, 2005, 3:34 AM
Post #33 of 138
(14930 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 17, 2003
Posts: 648
|
My last trad fall was 7 or 8 feet on a red Alien at J-Tree a month ago. It held fine.
|
|
|
|
|
onbelay_osu
Jan 5, 2005, 4:51 PM
Post #34 of 138
(14930 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 5, 2002
Posts: 1087
|
my scarirst fall was caught by the good old fashion pink tri cam i thought i had it backed up by i micro blue metolious cam, but it blew and the tri cam caught me. i fell about 15 feet.
more recently i fell on a red camalot, not far though like 2 feet, but any fall on trad lead is enough to make you want to pee your pants and cry home to mommy!
|
|
|
|
|
olejeff
Jan 7, 2005, 2:18 AM
Post #35 of 138
(14930 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 1, 2004
Posts: 99
|
.75 camalot
#8 WC rock (twice)
|
|
|
|
|
ncclimber
Jan 7, 2005, 2:41 AM
Post #36 of 138
(14930 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 5, 2003
Posts: 104
|
18 Footer on a blue Lowe Ball.
Saved me from a 60 footer.
My second pulled it right out with on problem.
Love that marginal aid. :twisted:
|
|
|
|
|
jeff788
Jan 7, 2005, 3:52 AM
Post #37 of 138
(14930 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 6, 2004
Posts: 18
|
My first lead fall ever was off of the roof on Bad Moki Roof on Wall Street in Moab. It was about half way through the roof... I believe it was a metolius FCU. That really scared me having never fallen before, but there were girls watching so.....
Not my own fall but here's a good one: Ice climbing two weeks ago my friend placed a purple flex-friend in the rock half way up a 90ft ice fall. He placed it where the fall had a step just before the final head-wall. About 15ft up the head wall his axe popped and his hand slipped out of the other leash. I was belaying and all I hear was "oh $hit" and the sound of my friend smacking the step and tumbling down. I honestly thought he was going to come flying off the lower fall. It caught him when he was right on the edge of the last vertical section, on his back, head down hill and legs in the air. No majoy injuries (luckily he had a helmet on). When I got up to the cam (to finish the pitch) the trigger was snapped, the lobes were spun around and the thing somehow managed to wedge itself in like a nut. How it held I'll never know. We walked away from that one very thankfull.
Anyone else have ice climbing stories? As I'm just beginning to lead ice I would be interested.
|
|
|
|
|
blakester
Jan 7, 2005, 4:02 AM
Post #38 of 138
(14930 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 20, 2004
Posts: 142
|
15 footer, #2 Robot cam. My only lead fall of any significance.
|
|
|
|
|
vegastradguy
Jan 7, 2005, 4:41 AM
Post #39 of 138
(14930 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
|
huh, havent answered this one yet...weird.
anyway, my only real lead fall was onto a #9 HB Offset that I placed as my third piece on Wholesome Fullback. I had just placed a crappy stopper and wasnt real thrilled with it, then I slotted the HB and was like- that'll hold a fall. Sure enough, I went for the crux, popped, and took a 15' onto the stopper. caught by a hip belay, no less!
i also fell onto anchor once out in Windy Canyon. Took a 15' fall past anchor....that one sucked. walked away with a sprained ankle and a bruised ego. i fell onto my partners gear, though...i didnt place anything before i fell...
i also sorta fell onto a #3 BD camalot on Atman, but it was like a 6" fall, so i really call that one more of a 'take'.
|
|
|
|
|
billcoe_
Jan 7, 2005, 5:16 AM
Post #40 of 138
(14930 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
|
In reply to: Probably the most notable are a 30 footer onto a #3 Crack N' Up. I have always used them for free climbing pro - but, you have to have them slung right for the webbing to not be cut on a fall.
Joseph: that must be that bent one I saw on your rack. Well, there's a mystery unraveled now!
For me, and I admit I don't like to fall and it uncommon, but wired BD stoppers have never let me down when I do fly. Furthermore, although I have seen evidence of cams holding amazing things (single cam, a ridged friend, stuck into a crappy shallow "crack" holding a fairly clean 150 footer with 300 lbs), they also tend to be the pieces, other than the little wireds, which fail on people.
If I get a chance I stuff a wired stopper in.
|
|
|
|
|
healyje
Jan 7, 2005, 11:32 AM
Post #41 of 138
(14930 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
|
In reply to: 18 Footer on a blue Lowe Ball. Saved me from a 60 footer. My second pulled it right out with on problem. Love that marginal aid. :twisted:
That's the spirit! I free climb on my Lowe Balls and have taken solid falls on all of them, even the smallest yellow ones. I've taken a bunch of dives on to the clears and blues. I can't imagine leaving the ground without those three at the very least and usually doubles of them.
|
|
|
|
|
tenesmus
Jan 8, 2005, 2:50 AM
Post #42 of 138
(14930 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2004
Posts: 263
|
This fall I took a 30 footer onto an orange TCU. A chunk of chossy rock popped and made me twist in the air and head down. Scarriest moment of climbing for me.
The moral of the story is to never trust the grade of a new 5.9 route put up on lead, on questionable rock by a 5.13 trad climber
|
|
|
|
|
bonin_in_the_boneyard
Jan 8, 2005, 3:03 AM
Post #43 of 138
(14930 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 362
|
Widdle bitty fall onto a red Alien. I was trying to top out a slopey, polished, grit stone mud fest in the rain. I got what I deserved. Got the RP later that week when it was dry.
|
|
|
|
|
stymingersfink
Jan 9, 2005, 8:03 PM
Post #44 of 138
(14930 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
|
Leading above the black tower with the wall kittens this past october I placed two lobes of a blue/black alien in a pin scar about 8 feet above a #1 pecker. I think i had HOPED it would hold, more than i KNEW it would hold, and when it decided to give out, the 30 footer that resulted left me hanging clean about halfway up the tower.
I have never been so stoked to have my pecker caught in a crack.
|
|
|
|
|
twclimber
Jan 9, 2005, 9:20 PM
Post #45 of 138
(14930 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 14, 2004
Posts: 29
|
oo rp
|
|
|
|
|
rockman_nh
Jan 27, 2005, 1:41 AM
Post #46 of 138
(14930 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 27, 2005
Posts: 3
|
Metolius Black, #5? caught my 50 footer. My belayer, whom I had met for the first time earlier that day, wasn't paying attention. I would have gone further if he had untied from the rope. The only thing he did right that day. I was in Rocky Mountain National Park. It should have been a ten footer. Lots of things were crossing my mind as I was accelerating beyond what I had anticipated.
I had a sprained ankle for months from the swing into the rock. I did alot of soloing for a while.
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Jan 27, 2005, 2:24 AM
Post #47 of 138
(14930 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
a #3 stopper, .75 camalot, and 3 camalot have held my most memorable falls.
I also had a blue metollius TCU hold a fall... for about a half second before popping out and me decking.
|
|
|
|
|
sinshan
Jan 27, 2005, 2:52 AM
Post #48 of 138
(14930 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 21, 2004
Posts: 93
|
---
Metolius Black, #5? caught my 50 footer. My belayer, whom I had met for the first time earlier that day, wasn't paying attention. I would have gone further if he had untied from the rope
----
Whoa. . .so the piece that stopped you was actually an inattentive belayer. damn. glad it turned out well- - at least, considering! Sorry that happened. . .
|
|
|
|
|
dbarandiaran
Feb 1, 2005, 12:30 AM
Post #49 of 138
(14930 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 29, 2003
Posts: 113
|
I fell about 10-12 feet on a marginal 0 Metolius TCU. It held fine, but is bent up now, so only to be used for aid i guess.
|
|
|
|
|
wlderdude
Feb 1, 2005, 1:44 AM
Post #50 of 138
(14930 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 8, 2002
Posts: 1123
|
My only nasty fall was caught by a good old fassioned #5 hex. It was my first placment on an off route coss plie. A #6 Huevo (aka Smiley, aka Stopper) popped, as did the #1 Trango Flex cam above it. The cam had inverted lobes, so milled cam stops might have helped, but this was the old rolled pin style. I came to rest upside down, 2 feet off the rocks on the deck and staring at my pale belayer. He had thrown himself on the ground to take up as much slack as he could as the pieces were blowing. His head was higher up than mine.
Oh yeah, he was wearing the helmet. I now own 2.
|
|
|
|
|
danpayne
Feb 1, 2005, 2:31 AM
Post #51 of 138
(14482 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 17, 2004
Posts: 278
|
In reply to: My only nasty fall was caught by a good old fassioned #5 hex. It was my first placment on an off route coss plie. A #6 Huevo (aka Smiley, aka Stopper) popped, as did the #1 Trango Flex cam above it. The cam had inverted lobes, so milled cam stops might have helped, but this was the old rolled pin style. I came to rest upside down, 2 feet off the rocks on the deck and staring at my pale belayer. He had thrown himself on the ground to take up as much slack as he could as the pieces were blowing. His head was higher up than mine. Oh yeah, he was wearing the helmet. I now own 2.
That is one hell of a belayer...
|
|
|
|
|
bighigaz
Feb 1, 2005, 2:44 AM
Post #52 of 138
(14482 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2002
Posts: 696
|
The one and only YELLOW Alien! Not a particularly long fall, but a blind placement just before I slipped... lucky for me it held, or I would've decked.
|
|
|
|
|
kachoong
Feb 1, 2005, 4:25 AM
Post #53 of 138
(14482 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 15304
|
....the happiest I've been after falling on trad gear was falling 15 feet onto a horizontally opposed #3BD wire and a #5BD wired hex in a horizontal break.... I had clipped the wire to a sling and passed the sling through the biner on the wired hex and clipped the rope to it.... they pulled towards each other just as I'd hoped (planned :wink: ).... made me trust my placements even more....
|
|
|
|
|
timmy_t
Feb 24, 2005, 11:24 PM
Post #54 of 138
(14482 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 23, 2004
Posts: 128
|
I had a #2 forged friend catch me on two lobes on the cam stops after slipping into a pod and sliding down the crack 6 inches while I was falling. I also just took a 15 footer onto a #3 BD stopper about 17 feet off the ground last weekend. Those were the most confidence inspiring falls so far, really didn't expect either to hold.
|
|
|
|
|
jstumpf
Feb 24, 2005, 11:52 PM
Post #55 of 138
(14482 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 12, 2001
Posts: 33
|
I took numerous falls on a #2 Camalot when I first started leading, all on the same route. Didn't take another fall again until a #4 DMM stopper caught me after a 25 footer at JT. Beauty of a placement. Sure wish I woulda been wearing a helmet, though.
|
|
|
|
|
irockclimbtoo
Feb 25, 2005, 12:58 AM
Post #56 of 138
(14482 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 3, 2004
Posts: 309
|
ab
|
|
|
|
|
irockclimbtoo
Feb 25, 2005, 1:01 AM
Post #57 of 138
(14482 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 3, 2004
Posts: 309
|
ab
|
|
|
|
|
johnnym
Feb 25, 2005, 1:09 AM
Post #58 of 138
(14482 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 21, 2005
Posts: 149
|
Number 1 hex - see http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=44884
|
|
|
|
|
stevoreno
Feb 25, 2005, 2:46 AM
Post #59 of 138
(14482 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 21, 2004
Posts: 2
|
The BD Camalot #2 is my old faithful and has taken most of my falls. Most notably during a recent trip to the Gritstone where the #2 was one of only two pieces placed.
Walter I'm sure there's a reason you brought your dirty undies,
That's right dude, the weight. The ringer cannot look empty.
|
|
|
|
|
mtnlvr
Feb 25, 2005, 3:42 AM
Post #60 of 138
(14482 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 3, 2003
Posts: 65
|
A bolt.
No trad falls yet (must not be climbing hard enough) but I have had 1 fall outdoors on a sport lead.
Kinda knew what was coming. I couldn't make the last move to the next bolt so I told my belayer to "watch me", and I lunged for it. Slapped the hold and my weary fingers slowly peel off as I sunk about 8'. Felt like more! Recouped a bit and finished it off.
|
|
|
|
|
halepierce
Feb 25, 2005, 3:50 AM
Post #61 of 138
(14482 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 26, 2003
Posts: 38
|
Fell 12-15 feet on a green alien. I was at the top of the route so the rope stretch made it nice and cushy. It was my first fall on gear and a nice confidance booster.
|
|
|
|
|
gunksgoer
Feb 25, 2005, 4:30 AM
Post #62 of 138
(14482 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 1290
|
clear alien, shifted ( :roll: ) but held
it was only like 10 or so feet, and i theoretically had a TR backup, but the belay side of that rope had been forgotten... im glad the alien held.
|
|
|
|
|
tenn_dawg
Feb 25, 2005, 4:57 AM
Post #63 of 138
(14482 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 14, 2002
Posts: 3045
|
I'm a pretty crappy climber, so I've taken lots of falls onto trad gear. Everything from a small smilies nut to a honking #4 camalot.
They'll all hold if you place them well.
|
|
|
|
|
rock_diva
Feb 25, 2005, 11:46 PM
Post #64 of 138
(14482 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 24, 2002
Posts: 320
|
My first fall was on a DMM #1 (small blue)
|
|
|
|
|
esallen
Feb 26, 2005, 4:09 AM
Post #65 of 138
(14482 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 11, 2004
Posts: 304
|
A bolt . . ha ha ha ha ha
|
|
|
|
|
phxtradrock
Feb 26, 2005, 4:32 AM
Post #66 of 138
(14482 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 2, 2004
Posts: 58
|
Haha "not falling makes climbing safe" -not quite sure who said that first but they were right! of course placing gear properly also makes climbing safe. I have fallen onto a number of DMM cams (all 4CU) but the scariest fall ever was only about 10 feet onto a #1 brass micronut. The #1 ripped out and I dropped another 10 feet onto the #2 and #3 brass micronuts which i had equalized using a runner and locking biner. Its a bad feeling when gear blows out
|
|
|
|
|
stymingersfink
Feb 28, 2005, 3:09 AM
Post #67 of 138
(14482 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
|
Oct 2004
25'+ onto a
#2 pecker
from above the Black Tower. Two-lobe blue-black alien placement failed, left me hanging 8-10' from the wall, midway up the tower proper. It was an uber-clean fall.
I have lately started thinking more about what would have happened if the pecker hadn't caught me, then realize I'd rather not think about it.
Probably would have broken both legs on the ledge there, then fallen another 75-90' onto the last piece before the pecker, a sawed angle at the base of the tower. *shivver*
|
|
|
|
|
glyrocks
Feb 28, 2005, 3:16 AM
Post #68 of 138
(14482 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 614
|
13cm BD ice screw with a Yates Screamer. Was only about 10 feet, but scary nonetheless.
Had an Alien break, then a nut pop before another nut kept me from rolling of the ledge I face planted on, with no injuries strangely enough.
Scariest was learning how to aid today. Had an #8 HB offset about halfway in this little boxy-shaped hole. I put it in, weighted it, top-stepped, and put in a #3 BD stopper that looked so much better than the offset. It, however, promptly popped. I am in love with that offset placement. Aid is freaky nuts.
|
|
|
|
|
tattooed_climber
Feb 28, 2005, 3:27 AM
Post #69 of 138
(14482 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 13, 2003
Posts: 4838
|
first trad fall today
a gold (#1) WC forged friend, camming was perfect, one lobe was near the edge of a crack in a somewhat shallow placement.
a peeled off the rock and fell about 15 feet.
|
|
|
|
|
labrat0065
Feb 28, 2005, 3:34 AM
Post #70 of 138
(14482 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 6, 2004
Posts: 122
|
as of today, i put down a 20-30 foot wipp on a red/yellow hybrid alien!!!!!
|
|
|
|
|
slobmonster
Feb 28, 2005, 4:41 AM
Post #71 of 138
(14482 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 28, 2003
Posts: 1586
|
I don't know if I've entered this discussion yet...
Significant (longer) falls:
30 feet onto a #3 Wild Country Rock
40 (+?) feet onto a 13 cm ice screw
25ish feet onto a hand-sized cam of some sort
Who cares? The more significant question is what did NOT catch your fall.
|
|
|
|
|
glyrocks
Feb 28, 2005, 4:52 AM
Post #72 of 138
(14482 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 614
|
In reply to: I don't know if I've entered this discussion yet... Significant (longer) falls: 30 feet onto a #3 Wild Country Rock 40 (+?) feet onto a 13 cm ice screw 25ish feet onto a hand-sized cam of some sort Who cares? The more significant question is what did NOT catch your fall.
Is there a story with that? (Repentence pictures are great, by the way- very impressive climb.)
|
|
|
|
|
tenn_dawg
Feb 28, 2005, 5:26 AM
Post #73 of 138
(14482 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 14, 2002
Posts: 3045
|
Once I took a 375 footer onto a sideways placed chevy valve stem.
|
|
|
|
|
golsen
Mar 15, 2005, 3:33 AM
Post #74 of 138
(14482 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 1, 2005
Posts: 361
|
In about 1980 I bought some gear from a guy at te Gat Buttress Parking Lot in Little Cottonwood Canyon. One of the pieces was an SMC CAMLOCK, a nut that cammed. It was thread with about 6mm perlon. On a climb called Old Reliable (which interestingly has fallen off) There is a 5.10 roof way up high, it is (was) basically a 1" finger crack through the roof. This was to be my first on-site 10 and I made it through the lower crux and used the cam lock to protect this parallel sided finger crack. Damn I fell and my partner couldnt see me, I went about 15-20 feet, nice clean fall. I actually fell twice more before pulling it off. The perlon on the camlock was toast and the mantle was shredded....glad it held. Gotto watch that used stuff...
|
|
|
|
|
nrvna963
Mar 15, 2005, 3:37 AM
Post #75 of 138
(14482 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 29, 2004
Posts: 156
|
last weekend i took 2 40 footers on 2 equalized RURP's
|
|
|
|
|
phaedrus
Mar 15, 2005, 3:44 AM
Post #76 of 138
(14382 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 24, 2002
Posts: 3046
|
Took my first trad fall onto gear I'd placed a couple of weeks ago onto a #3 Camalot... only a couple of feet, but it felt like a couple of hundred. The piece held and I wanted to find the person responsible for that specific piece of gear and give them the biggest, most passionate kiss I've ever given anyone, ever. :lol:
|
|
|
|
|
thomaskeefer
Mar 15, 2005, 4:49 AM
Post #77 of 138
(14382 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 24, 2002
Posts: 186
|
In reply to: = Had an Alien break, then a nut pop before another nut kept me from rolling of the ledge I face planted on, with no injuries strangely enough.
Care to share why you think you broke this alien?
|
|
|
|
|
ncclimber
Mar 15, 2005, 8:52 PM
Post #78 of 138
(14382 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 5, 2003
Posts: 104
|
In reply to: last weekend i took 2 40 footers on 2 equalized RURP's |
|
|
|
|
nrvna963
Mar 23, 2005, 9:02 PM
Post #79 of 138
(14382 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 29, 2004
Posts: 156
|
Mine and leban's new free climb on the north face of looking glass. I forgot to mention that he fell in the same spot after my two falls and he ripped them out, and took a 60 footer on his head.
|
|
|
|
|
nurocks
Mar 23, 2005, 9:20 PM
Post #80 of 138
(14382 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 19, 2003
Posts: 788
|
I recently took a 15-20 footer on a #10 chouinard nut. I placed it blind, gave it a couple of tugs...it didn't move. I exited from under the roof above me and climbed past the nut...well two moves past it and then fell. All in all it was fun and I didn't even damage the cable.
Jason
|
|
|
|
|
the_climber
Mar 23, 2005, 9:35 PM
Post #81 of 138
(14382 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 9, 2003
Posts: 6142
|
Haven't fallen on gear for a couple of seasons, but the last two falls were on a #5 smiley and a #3.5 forged friend.
The smiley was not an ideal placement, but held quite well. It is a true testiment as to how hard a nut can be to clean if it is not an ideal placement... despite much time spent trying to clean it, it still remains in the rock.
The friend... it started as a good placement, caught the first fall... walked before the second fall... the "ping" sound that it made when it popped still rings in my ears. I swear that piece was going mock 2 when it came out :shock:
|
|
|
|
|
boss
Mar 23, 2005, 9:45 PM
Post #82 of 138
(14382 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 29, 2002
Posts: 235
|
Hmmmmm I'd say my two best falls were a 30 footer on a #4 BD stopper and a 20 footer on a #1 BD Cam. Needless to say, the fall onto the #4 stopper was a bit scarier!
-boss
|
|
|
|
|
jackhammer
Mar 26, 2005, 4:02 PM
Post #83 of 138
(14382 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 22, 2004
Posts: 255
|
First and only lead fall...30 footer on a #8 Huevo Nut...and it held.
To this day, it's my favorite piece.
|
|
|
|
|
esallen
Jun 13, 2005, 1:29 AM
Post #84 of 138
(14382 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 11, 2004
Posts: 304
|
Took a 20-footer onto a 00 Metolius TCU yesterday. Was on Two-Nut Muffin 10.a in Rock canyon and came off just above the crux. The thing held and probably kept me from decking (I stopped about 4 feet above ground). Gotta love those Metolius TCUs . . . gotta love 'em. . .
Eric
|
|
|
|
|
jmahoney
Jun 13, 2005, 2:26 AM
Post #85 of 138
(14382 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2003
Posts: 5
|
A MOAC on one inch blue webbing stopped my first leader fall. It is basically a pre stopper design from about 1970. I can't remember the others.
|
|
|
|
|
villageidiot
Jun 13, 2005, 3:43 AM
Post #86 of 138
(14382 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 12, 2005
Posts: 104
|
Five ft on a #10 BD stopper. My toes were 2-3 inches from the deck.
|
|
|
|
|
healyje
Jun 13, 2005, 8:30 PM
Post #87 of 138
(14382 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
|
In reply to: Hmmmmm I'd say my two best falls were a 30 footer on a #4 BD stopper and a 20 footer on a #1 BD Cam. Needless to say, the fall onto the #4 stopper was a bit scarier! -boss
Good on your game, that's taking your chops. Though I'll take a stopper over a cam any day of the week...! For some of us old guys cams will always be more suspect than stoppers, even #4's...
|
|
|
|
|
trevzilla
Jun 13, 2005, 8:36 PM
Post #88 of 138
(14382 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 24, 2004
Posts: 164
|
30 footer on a #9 Stopper on epinephrine. I was a little off route. Thought it was a lot harder than a 5.7 pitch. (Pitch 4 I believe). It held very nicely though!
|
|
|
|
|
flipnfall
Jun 13, 2005, 9:08 PM
Post #89 of 138
(14382 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 18, 2004
Posts: 717
|
30 foot whipper on a size 3 BD stopper.
8^)
GT
|
|
|
|
|
joshy8200
Jun 13, 2005, 9:21 PM
Post #90 of 138
(14382 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 646
|
I took about a 5 foot fall onto a new #1 C4 on 'Zig' at New River Gorge. And I've fallen about 5 feet on medium size nut on 'Harpoon' at Ship Rock.
|
|
|
|
|
halcyon
Jun 13, 2005, 9:29 PM
Post #91 of 138
(14382 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 26, 2003
Posts: 227
|
Never fallen on trad... is that bad? Is it a right of passage? Will I trust my gear more? Am I missing out? Usually I sew my pitches up nicely, and when I get sketched out I throw in another nut... occasionally french freeing them (pretending i'm tugging to check the placement so my parter is none the wiser :wink: )... dang, I suck. I'm gonna go fall....
|
|
|
|
|
korntera
Jun 14, 2005, 6:24 AM
Post #92 of 138
(14382 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 14, 2004
Posts: 422
|
I had a shitty blue cam placed(rock empire) and it was a bad placement but i knew it would at least slow me down. I took a fall, it pulled and 20 feet below where i started, i came to a stop on a yellow(#1 rock empire)
-Travis Smith
|
|
|
|
|
pbcowboy77
Jun 22, 2005, 3:27 AM
Post #93 of 138
(14382 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 9, 2002
Posts: 574
|
My first 6 lead falls were on my .5 camalot. Finally I just took a 25 footer on my green allien. I hate placing my .5 now, gives me a total head trip and it seems like I have to place it when I'm all freaked out. :shock:
|
|
|
|
|
skinner
Jun 22, 2005, 4:14 AM
Post #94 of 138
(14382 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 1747
|
A single, small, old knife-blade, when a small overhang I was working let go. The thing that shocked me the most about the fall, was the knife-blade stopping me. As I hung upside down, spinning around all I could think of was; "No way that frikken little blade held.. The rope must have caught itself somewhere".
I still have the knife-blade btw :wink:
|
|
|
|
|
papounet
Jul 4, 2005, 11:04 PM
Post #95 of 138
(14382 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 28, 2003
Posts: 471
|
Just came back from a trip to Chamonix granite.
Went offroute twice on the 5th pitch of "L'arete du Genepi" (Alpine D rating).
First time I downclimbed, second time I tried to establish a direct course toward the belay (I had not seen the piton 5m to the right). Instead of a 5.9 traverse move, was probably attempting a 5.10c dulfer move. I was not so confident so I placed a #1 friend and a micro nut 1 m higher.
Well, both the belayer and I could see the fall coming, I almost completed the move but peeled. The weight of the backpack (with heavy leather boots, ice axe, crampons,etc) flipped me over and I hit the rock with my helmet. probably 12 to 15 feet
I beleive it was one of the smallest DMM peenut which held me. The last climber could not remove it.
It is my only fall on gear while leading. And I plan on keeping it that way ;-)
|
|
|
|
|
ldsclimber
Aug 25, 2005, 3:53 PM
Post #96 of 138
(14382 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 27, 2002
Posts: 90
|
I've whipped on a BD .4, .5,#1, green,Yellow, Red Alien, a Blue WC zero. They were all bomber I did pull a purple motolius TCU and a #1 BD but those were do to bad placement that I knew where bad.I had sopme splitters but gave them away cause they wold rotate way to easy and thats just scarey.
|
|
|
|
|
tgreene
Aug 25, 2005, 4:01 PM
Post #97 of 138
(14382 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 22, 2003
Posts: 7267
|
The slab rocks at the bottom of a gorge! :shock:
|
|
|
|
|
sactownclimber
Aug 25, 2005, 4:32 PM
Post #98 of 138
(14382 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2005
Posts: 216
|
My first fall (and only, so far . . . ) on gear was about a five-footer on a red alien. It was over before I knew it . . . I had placed it semi-blindly from around a corner, and fell trying to turn the corner. When I climbed back up to it, only three lobes were touching . . . not what you like to see . . .
|
|
|
|
|
ontherocks
Aug 25, 2005, 4:55 PM
Post #99 of 138
(14382 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 3, 2001
Posts: 155
|
So far all my pieces held when I fell. Longer fall on a small BD #6 Stopper, around 15-20 feet after a hand hold broke. Rest of the falls were on also nuts or BD cams (medium to large).
|
|
|
|
|
glyrocks
Aug 25, 2005, 5:11 PM
Post #100 of 138
(14382 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 614
|
In reply to: In reply to: = Had an Alien break, then a nut pop before another nut kept me from rolling off the ledge I face planted on, with no injuries strangely enough. Care to share why you think you broke this alien?
Not really sure. It wasn't mine so I didn't get to keep it around but I remember the wire on a lobe pulling out. I don't know why it happened then, must have been the first time it had seen significant weight because it was a pretty shallow placement that wasn't going to take much to pull. Obviously the nut placement sucked too. Obviously I sucked. There was a long thread of people overreacting about another broken alien a few months back.
|
|
|
|
|
fng
Aug 25, 2005, 5:49 PM
Post #101 of 138
(16705 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 20, 2003
Posts: 85
|
I placed placed the first piece of pro,a mid size trango brassie, 15-20 ft above the ledge just off the ground on 'the nut cracker' in the valley. I was prob 10' above it when my hand slipped out of that greasy crack while trying to place a second piece. I watched that nut the whole time I was falling to see if it would hold and it did. I still use that little life saver.
|
|
|
|
|
renohandjams
Aug 30, 2005, 4:39 PM
Post #102 of 138
(16705 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 24, 2005
Posts: 616
|
Number 2 camalot on a 20 footer, didn't budge. I need to fall a lot more too or else I'm going to stay stuck in the same trad grade.
|
|
|
|
|
shu-up
Deleted
Aug 30, 2005, 6:52 PM
Post #103 of 138
(16705 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
Took a 20 footer onto a #9 Black Diamond wire at Red Rocks.
The chalked hand hold broke and sent me dooooown onto this piece.
Took some rock fall to the shin, cut down to the bone!
Spooked the party on Y2K that were next to us.
At least it was the last day of a 5 day trip to Red Rocks.
|
|
|
|
|
mischief8
Aug 30, 2005, 7:07 PM
Post #104 of 138
(16705 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 17, 2004
Posts: 416
|
First fall on trad happened this summer
#3 BD cam fell about 15' held me like a champ
Daniela
|
|
|
|
|
devkrev
Aug 30, 2005, 7:14 PM
Post #105 of 138
(16705 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 28, 2004
Posts: 933
|
When this thread first started I had nothing to say, but since that I have fallen on an orange alien, an old manky pin, and a 15 footer onto a #5 and #7 stopper
I feel like part of the club now :-)
later
dev
|
|
|
|
|
backclipped
Aug 30, 2005, 7:34 PM
Post #106 of 138
(16705 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 25, 2005
Posts: 137
|
I lost my balance and took a wee little 12-15 footer on Gruff in the Lower Gorge at Smith. That beautiful #1 Camalot dug in like a champ. Not sure why I fell. I must have felt that it was time to test the gear out.
|
|
|
|
|
chromwells_head
Aug 30, 2005, 7:57 PM
Post #107 of 138
(16705 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2005
Posts: 54
|
took a 20 footer on to a .5 tri cam bent the axle LONG LIVE PINKY
|
|
|
|
|
brad84
Aug 30, 2005, 7:59 PM
Post #108 of 138
(16705 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 18, 2004
Posts: 149
|
my most recent was a 30footer on a blue alien. no worries...
other than that ive taken tons of falls, mostly on small wallnuts (sizes 1-3), a few on the mid-size BD micronuts. all up to ~30'.
a biggish one on a grey alien.
ive never had a piece pull or fail otherwise in somewhere around...30 lead falls (eh, that could be on the low end, but whos counting?). all trad.
place it well and focus on the movement kids. err hopefully upward movement.
be safe.
|
|
|
|
|
the_climber
Aug 21, 2010, 5:09 PM
Post #109 of 138
(7223 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 9, 2003
Posts: 6142
|
Thread Resurrection.....
Medium sized Cassin Captain Hook placed in a shallow positive pocket; slung with 1" Tubular webbing, bartacked. In all honestly the fall should have been caught by the pink tricam 5 feet below... Proof again the Eddy provides a dynamic belay, and sometimes anything is better than nothing.
And yes I'm bored at work on a Saturday
|
|
|
|
|
Rudmin
Aug 21, 2010, 5:41 PM
Post #110 of 138
(7199 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2009
Posts: 606
|
10 feet on a #10 OP stopper. And 5 feet on a 0.5 Tricam. Both held like a champ.
|
|
|
|
|
uni_jim
Aug 21, 2010, 5:41 PM
Post #111 of 138
(7199 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 27, 2008
Posts: 429
|
the_climber wrote: Thread Resurrection..... Medium sized Cassin Captain Hook placed in a shallow positive pocket; slung with 1" Tubular webbing, bartacked. In all honestly the fall should have been caught by the pink tricam 5 feet below... Proof again the Eddy provides a dynamic belay, and sometimes anything is better than nothing. And yes I'm bored at work on a Saturday
good work, good sir! that's how we do it in the chossies!
|
|
|
|
|
chilli
Aug 21, 2010, 7:19 PM
Post #112 of 138
(7183 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 11, 2007
Posts: 401
|
a good ten+ ft to the BD#2 that blew out the rock around it before the BD#3 lower down caught. fall totaled around 30ft. plus lots of pebbles on the helmet.
no big deal just got moving again.
all happened on relatively straightforward (aside from some freeze-fractured rock) 5.8 terrain {upon revisiting, it turned out we were on the 5.10 next to the intended 5.8, but still wasn't a bad route}. just got slack in judgment, & hand slipped.
live&learn
no paperweights yet.
(This post was edited by chilli on Sep 1, 2011, 9:32 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
shimanilami
Aug 21, 2010, 9:35 PM
Post #113 of 138
(7169 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 2043
|
15' on a knot tied in a sling, placed as a chock. Bomber.
|
|
|
|
|
ensonik
Aug 21, 2010, 10:03 PM
Post #114 of 138
(7160 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 15, 2009
Posts: 134
|
First fall on gear today. BD #2, about 10 feet. Held like a champ.
|
|
|
|
|
swoopee
Aug 22, 2010, 4:39 PM
Post #115 of 138
(7126 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 17, 2008
Posts: 560
|
shimanilami wrote: 15' on a knot tied in a sling, placed as a chock. Bomber.
So a knotted sling will actually hold a fall? That is good news.
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Aug 22, 2010, 5:42 PM
Post #116 of 138
(7110 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
ensonik wrote: First fall on gear today. BD #2, about 10 feet. Held like a champ.
At the Gunks?
|
|
|
|
|
xtrmecat
Aug 22, 2010, 5:59 PM
Post #117 of 138
(7106 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 548
|
I got in the neighborhood of 40 some feet of air time held by a .25 or .4 camalot (I honestly don't remember which it was)on pitch 5 of T-Trip in late May. A tapered nut pulled when I was getting fully committed to it, and tore the camhook I was on and bent it beyond repair, had a tied off fixed pin without an eye below that that just parted the tie off, and the nut below that pulled leaving an aluminum smear in the placement. That and I was backcleaning some and my belayer was 50 pounds lighter than me plus rack so he went to the end of his tie in, all in all I thought the camalot placement wasn't that solid, but it held, cleaned easily. I have a pic of jugging back to the camalot somewhere in my stuff, oh yeah, here it is.
It seemed like something wasn't right, and I was comprehending the fact that speed had increased to make the wind going by my ears loud, and nothing seemed to slow me down, and then the rope came taught and cushed in. Nice and soft, clean. Doesn't get any safer than that, and yes a huge wahooo came out of me shortly after. Cam is still in perfect working order.
Bob
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Aug 22, 2010, 6:22 PM
Post #118 of 138
(7101 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
That is a crazy fall and awesome picture. I can't believe you only fell forty ripping that many pieces.
|
|
|
|
|
ensonik
Aug 22, 2010, 7:21 PM
Post #119 of 138
(7087 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 15, 2009
Posts: 134
|
johnwesely wrote: ensonik wrote: First fall on gear today. BD #2, about 10 feet. Held like a champ. At the Gunks?
Unfortunately not. Going back for a 4th and last time at the end of this week.
It was while laybacking this about mid-way through:
Had done it before, but this time the feet just didn't stick.
|
|
|
|
|
blueeyedclimber
Aug 22, 2010, 8:15 PM
Post #120 of 138
(7071 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
|
I've taken many falls. If memory serves, these are the pieces that have caught at least one fall.
blue, green, yellow, red and purple aliens
blue, yellow, orange, and red TCU
purple, green, red, gold, and blue camalot
various nuts (not sure of sizes)
Most of my falls have been less than 15-18 feet. I have taken a few between 20-25. My longest one was around 25 and I was caught by a blue alien. I took about a 15 footer last weekend with a green alien catching me.
I have had one piece pull in a fall (blue alien) and was caught by the next piece (green camalot). I was very skeptical of the alien so was not too surprised when it pulled, but was still scary.
Josh
|
|
|
|
|
TarHeelEMT
Aug 23, 2010, 2:26 AM
Post #121 of 138
(7034 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 20, 2009
Posts: 724
|
A red TCU caught my first fall.
|
|
|
|
|
bandycoot
Aug 23, 2010, 3:40 AM
Post #122 of 138
(7025 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 2028
|
If you're not falling, you're not climbing. I fall often, and have tested much of my gear....
Last weekend my buddy lobbed about 25' off of Ankles Away onto my 00 TCU. That was rather memorable. Especially since he had to head back up and try the moves again over the same piece.
In Ireland climbing at a Quarry near Dublin I set a 0 TCU in a wet crack 40' off the deck. I promptly slipped off above it, and it held. I was stoked since it was my only piece in at that point!
I took a nice 40' fall in Malaysia and had a 0.5 camalot slide about 8" out of the crack, finally stopping me with only two lobes. Yikes!
On my first trip up Romantic Warrior I blew the final move of the first 12a pitch. I ripped a #2 TCU and a piton finally stopping on another piton below. The fall was at least 25', probably longer.
One of the most memorable falls I've had was when I ripped a #3 Metolius on Kryptonite Crack in Arapiles. It was my only piece in. For some reason, my belayer had decided to wrap the rope around her hand "just in case" and kept me off the deck. Her hand recovered eventually. Best belayer I've ever had...
On another trip up Romantic Warrior on the last 12a pitch I fell, had my foot go between 2 brassies and the rope hooked behind my knee. I ended up hanging upside down in the corner with rope going up from the belayer to a #4 brassie, down behind my knee, up to a #2 brassie, and then down to my harness. My foot was pointed down and was pinned against the wall by my body. It was classic trying to get out of that one! If my leg wasn't semi-equalizing the two pieces I could have said a #2 brassie held my fall...
It's been fun.... 
Josh
(This post was edited by bandycoot on Aug 23, 2010, 3:43 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Aug 23, 2010, 3:58 AM
Post #123 of 138
(7016 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
Hmm, most recently it was a #3 PeeNut and a green alien.
Biggest gear fall was on a runner girth hitched through a hole, 25 feet or so. Didn't see it coming. I had a gobie on my hand the size of a silver dollar, so I taped up that day. That hand was jammed in the crack and I was pulling a cam off my harness. I felt my hand start to slide and pow, I was out of there.
My tape had ripped the scab off my gobie and the blood was flowing freely and lubed that jam.
|
|
|
|
|
moose_droppings
Aug 23, 2010, 4:58 AM
Post #124 of 138
(7003 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3371
|
Bob, is that one of Tom Evans pics that he took when you did that route?
|
|
|
|
|
northfacejmb
Aug 23, 2010, 5:35 AM
Post #126 of 138
(4145 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 2, 2006
Posts: 234
|
~15ft onto this
It was a blind placement that I couldn't see until I was at the crux above it. From the crux I looked down and saw how horrible it was, but i was stuck and couldn't free a hand to do anything. Long story short, I slipped while trying to decided if I should try to down climb or just go for it.
You can't really see from the photo, but the middle lobe was barely on a little nubin, and just a hair in either direction and the cam would have ballooned.
|
|
|
|
|
bigfatrock
Aug 23, 2010, 4:02 PM
Post #127 of 138
(4103 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 2, 2006
Posts: 1321
|
20+ ft fall onto a yellow Metolius Master cam. Scared that crap out of me because I wasn't even happy with the placement.
|
|
|
|
|
papadigity
Aug 25, 2010, 12:49 AM
Post #129 of 138
(4029 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 18, 2006
Posts: 2
|
Zag NRG. .3 BD cam
28ft
|
|
|
|
|
cantbuymefriends
Aug 26, 2010, 11:33 AM
Post #130 of 138
(3988 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2003
Posts: 670
|
I was on a 5.9 that turned into an .11b when I took a wrong turn due to printer error in the topo ...
An HB Offset #8 ~20 ft off the deck caught me with my feet just shy of touching the ground. (Inverted a poorly placed Red Alien higher up.)
Greased off a wet hold onto a 2.5 Friend in a bottleneck on a ropesolo lead, but that was more a "Hang" or "Take" than a fall.
|
|
|
|
|
chrisJoosse
Aug 30, 2010, 3:16 AM
Post #131 of 138
(3939 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 16, 2009
Posts: 150
|
My latest two falls (on the same piece, working the same crux) were caught courtesy of my red #1 C3 from about 6 feet above.
The piece held great, but I tweaked my ankle on fall #2. My partner finished the pitch.
To date, I've never had a piece pull... which, of course, tells you I'm a noob. 
|
|
|
|
|
chadnsc
Aug 30, 2010, 6:29 PM
Post #132 of 138
(3889 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 24, 2003
Posts: 4449
|
I haven't taken many falls but here is the list so far.
1, #3.5 BD Cam (12 foot fall)
2. Pink Tricam (20 foot fall)
3. #4 BD Stopper (10 foot fall)
4. #1.5 Technical Friend (25 foot fall)
5. Ye old yet solid pin (15 foot fall)
The falls haven't caused me to buy any redundant gear, although the climbs I tend to lead like the #3.5 BD Cams, and multiple 1.0 to 2.0 Technical Friends so I have double and quadruple of those sizes.
|
|
|
|
|
alpinismo_flujo
Aug 30, 2010, 9:01 PM
Post #133 of 138
(3875 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 14, 2006
Posts: 603
|
Great OP!..I'd say my favorite piece that has caught my fall = my wife.  Last time was at Black and Tan Wall Sourthern UT..drug her as s across some rocks, dirt and scrub. Of course she yelled that I better start anchoring her in..
|
|
|
|
|
patmay81
Aug 31, 2010, 12:10 AM
Post #134 of 138
(3852 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 3, 2006
Posts: 1081
|
Most memorable was not a huge fall, maybe 15'+. But I was less than 20' off the ground. I had a gold link cam in a nasty outward flare, only two lobes cammed evenly, the other two were tipped out. I placed a tcu above the flare as soon as I could. about 5' above the tcu I peeled, the tcu blew (who knows why) and the link cam held.
There are very few times my heart beat as hard as when I realized I stopped less than a foot from a ground fall, with a piece that shouldn't have held its own weight keeping me up.
|
|
|
|
|
rangerrob
Sep 2, 2010, 4:50 PM
Post #135 of 138
(3791 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 8, 2003
Posts: 641
|
Fell off the top of the crux of P2 of feast of fools in the Gunks onto a #3 Stopper. Fall was around 17 or 18 feet. That was the smallest piece I have ever fallen on.
|
|
|
|
|
killingmorethancancer
Sep 2, 2010, 5:52 PM
Post #136 of 138
(3781 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 24, 2010
Posts: 61
|
White sling TRI-CAM. Ran out 15 feet thru a roof on it, popped at the crux and enjoyed the 30 foot ride Via gravity. Hail TRI-CAMS! |
|
|
|
|
acorneau
Sep 2, 2010, 6:45 PM
Post #137 of 138
(3767 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889
|
killingmorethancancer wrote: White sling TRI-CAM. Ran out 15 feet thru a roof on it, popped at the crux and enjoyed the 30 foot ride Via gravity. Hail TRI-CAMS! Dude! That little sucker is only rated to 3kN! Glad you had a good "flight".
|
|
|
|
|
suprasoup
Sep 3, 2010, 8:14 AM
Post #138 of 138
(3737 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 7, 2005
Posts: 309
|
acorneau wrote: killingmorethancancer wrote: White sling TRI-CAM. Ran out 15 feet thru a roof on it, popped at the crux and enjoyed the 30 foot ride Via gravity. Hail TRI-CAMS! Dude! That little sucker is only rated to 3kN! Glad you had a good "flight". Never underestimate the holding power of a well placed Tricam! Maybe CAMP rates them conservatively but I swear I've had tricams hold when they should have failed.  Not a white tricam but that little bad boy held a good 20 footer. While out in the Dias I was pulling the crux of a climb, which happened to be a small roof. As is typical of the quality of Sandias rock instead of pulling the move I pulled the whole roof off the route. Suffice it to say I fell. I was caught by a #4 BD nut slung with a screamer. The Screamer activated and GODDAMN if I didn't shit myself from the noise alone! Not the exact placement but remarkably similiar 
(This post was edited by suprasoup on Sep 3, 2010, 10:16 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
