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jbell2355
May 21, 2005, 9:08 PM
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My partner and I got on a sport climb today that I've done several times. I was within reach of the second bolt, but got out of sequence and fell. This is normally not a problem on this route, so I had no fear as I was falling. I was quite surprised when I continued all the way down and decked. I landed solidly on one ass cheek and was uninjured for the most part despite falling 15 feet.
I immediately though that the bold had failed, but was very surprised to see a quick draw with a biner on one end and an open loop on the other sitting on the ground next to me.
As best we can tell, a sharp edge just below the bolt was the culprit. When I fell, the dogbone was dragged along the edge enough to sever it completely.
I was very lucky. There was a big rock in the landing zone that I could have easily hit my head on. I was wearing my helmet, because I always do. However, it was a good reminder of how important helmets are. Even on sport routes where rock fall is not a problem, you should still wear your helmet. There is no downside to wearing it, and it can definitely help prevent injury. I certainly didn't expect a gear failure on a sport route, but it happened. You just never know!
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=54619
Edited to add photo.
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bandycoot
May 21, 2005, 9:25 PM
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Glad to hear you weren't hurt! Kinda scary that the edge cut the draw! Sounds like it might be a good idea to move the bolt a little? Try to get the FA's permission first of course.
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cgailey
May 21, 2005, 10:18 PM
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In reply to: Sounds like it might be a good idea to move the bolt a little? Try to get the FA's permission first of course.
Yeah, quite possibly...
Glad you're OK and thanks for sharing your experience with us. It's a reminder that bad stuff can happen to anyone, even if you do everything right.
Where were you climbing?
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ctardi
May 22, 2005, 5:00 AM
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Glad you are okay, could have been much worse. Definatly either move the bolt, or leave pics/story at the site so others will be more careful on that climb.
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musicman
May 22, 2005, 5:03 AM
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wow, scary story. i've never heard of the draw being severed, ropes you hear about, but the draw?! i'd like to see a picture too, and definelty get in contact with somebody about moving the bolt, or do it yourself if you are so inclined and have the gear.
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treez
May 22, 2005, 5:24 AM
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Do you have a picture? I'm having a hard time believing you severed a dogbone on an edge below a bolt.
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jakk
May 22, 2005, 6:17 AM
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I recently came accross a similar story in a European forum, quickdraw looked like this:
http://images.belclimb.net/news/beez-200409.jpg
Unfortunately this had a tragic ending: some idiot had set up a toprope with a single quickdraw, and the guy (first time climber) who fell died
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mr-pink
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May 22, 2005, 8:40 AM
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That story in europe was in belgium, beez (near marche - les - dames)
It's not really known why that quickdraw broke, but every climber knows it's stupid to tr on just 1 quickdraw.
It's a nice crag though! :D
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jbell2355
May 22, 2005, 1:24 PM
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Thanks for all your replies. I'm glad I'm alright too!
In response to your questions: the route is in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, where I live. I know the FA well and will discuss the bolt placement with him. My main concern is the safety of future climbers and I'm confident he'll do something to fix the problem.
Musicman: I'll try to get a picture up in the next couple of days, but I resent your disbelief. How could you buy a story of a rope being severed, but not a QD? A QD is much easier to cut.
I'll also consider posting a picture of my ass cheek when it gets to the worst stage of bruising. I'll just have to be careful not to violate the TOS.
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corpse
May 22, 2005, 1:44 PM
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I would also think a rope under major tension could be sliced easier than a quickdraw - but some of hte qd's I have are pretty damn stout. I would like to see your severed qd too - not out of disbelief of the story - just to see it.
Very glad to hear you are ok. And definitely glad it wasn't someone getting dropped again (I'm sick of the decking stories because of a bad belay).
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lostdog
May 22, 2005, 2:00 PM
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i love how the OP turned this story into a "YOU MUST WEAR YOUR HELMET THREAD" get over urself. what a joke
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jebel_andi
May 22, 2005, 2:58 PM
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In reply to: i love how the OP turned this story into a "YOU MUST WEAR YOUR HELMET THREAD" get over urself. what a joke
Agreed,
A message to future posters in this thread: Every possible argument for or against not wearing a helmet has been heard before in at least a dosen other threads. Please will no one post here if they have nothing to say that doesn't regard helmets. There is no need for another helmet thread and I think we are all sick to death of them.
P.S. Sorry to here about the fall jbell2355, its scary to hear about some one decking when every thing was done right.
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ullr
May 22, 2005, 3:03 PM
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Scary stuff. Thanks for posting your experience.
I never think of my draws as being potential weak points. But I certainly will now.
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lucas_timmer
May 22, 2005, 3:16 PM
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In reply to: I recently came accross a similar story in a European forum, quickdraw looked like this: http://images.belclimb.net/news/beez-200409.jpg Unfortunately this had a tragic ending: some idiot had set up a toprope with a single quickdraw, and the guy (first time climber) who fell died |
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jbell2355
May 22, 2005, 3:21 PM
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In reply to: lostdog Posted: Sun May 22, 2005 9:00 am Post subject: Re: I decked today -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- i love how the OP turned this story into a "YOU MUST WEAR YOUR HELMET THREAD" get over urself. what a joke
Hey lostdog, go nail your dick to a burning building. I didn't turn the thread into a "wear your helmet" thread. The purpose of the post is to explain the accident that occurred and allow other people to have imput and learn from it.
I wrote two sentences about helmetes because my partner's response after this was all over was, "wow, I'm gonna start wearing my helmet all the time." I thought the story might have a positive impace on someone else who possibly hadn't considered all the reasons to wear a helmet.
Also, it isn't spelled "urself", it is "yourself". What exactly do you see as a joke?
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overlord
May 22, 2005, 5:42 PM
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defnitely move the bolt. this is a serious injury waiting to happen. glad that you were ok.
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kyote321
May 22, 2005, 5:58 PM
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any photos of route or draw?
i'm having trouble visualizing this.
glad you are ok.
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jbell2355
May 22, 2005, 6:10 PM
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I have a photo of the quickdraw that is pending approval and will post it in the original post when it is approved. The next time I'm at the route (which may not be for a few weeks), I'll try to get a picture of the edge and it's relationship to the bolt so that it is easier to understand.
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musicman
May 22, 2005, 6:16 PM
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In reply to: Musicman: I'll try to get a picture up in the next couple of days, but I resent your disbelief. How could you buy a story of a rope being severed, but not a QD? A QD is much easier to cut.
i wasn't in disbelief, i totally believe you. I've just heard of ropes being severed, hence that they (whoever tests the gear we trust our life with) do a share edge test on some ropes. There is also a lot of tension in a rope, i believe you fully. I have just never heard of it happening before. Sorry if i came off sounding like a jerk, glad you're okay.
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jcpace
May 22, 2005, 7:20 PM
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In reply to: Hey lostdog, go nail your dick to a burning building. |
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corcovado
May 23, 2005, 3:00 AM
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In reply to: Hey lostdog, go nail your dick to a burning building. I didn't turn the thread into a "wear your helmet" thread. The purpose of the post is to explain the accident that occurred and allow other people to have imput and learn from it. I wrote two sentences about helmetes because my partner's response after this was all over was, "wow, I'm gonna start wearing my helmet all the time." I thought the story might have a positive impace on someone else who possibly hadn't considered all the reasons to wear a helmet. Also, it isn't spelled "urself", it is "yourself". What exactly do you see as a joke?
You're a testy son of a bitch, aren't you?
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jt512
May 23, 2005, 3:12 AM
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Wow. I think that is the first time I've heard of the webbing on a draw failing. How old was the draw? Has it been "abused," such as left hanging on a project for a while with no gumbies around to steal it? Is it possible that a different length draw on that bolt would avoid the problem?
-Jay
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alpnclmbr1
May 23, 2005, 3:18 AM
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Ha hahaha.
Only on rockclimbing.com would people believe that someone cut one of their draws in a fall, on the "bolt" side no less.
Ha ha ha ha
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angry
May 23, 2005, 3:22 AM
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Why do I find it so funny that he landed on his ass and said it was a good thing he wore his helmet?
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