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indigo_nite
Sep 12, 2002, 3:01 AM
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Registered: Mar 3, 2002
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I'm starting out with multi-pitch climbing. Does anyone have beta on these routes? (in terms of offering decent protection placements, straightforward route finding, nice belays, straightforward descent finding, how crowded/popular, getting to the base)
-Northeast face West
-Northeast face East
-West Lark
-Northeast Farce
Currently, I feel comfortable doing 5.7 climbing. thanks!!
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rrrADAM
Sep 12, 2002, 3:32 AM
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Registered: Dec 19, 1999
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Left Ski Track.
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betaflash
Sep 12, 2002, 4:17 AM
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Registered: May 26, 2002
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West Lark would be a good choice this time of year. It is in the shade for most of the day and has a very straight forward descent down a gulley. You may want to set up one rap off of a tree to avoid down climbing a short chimney, but this is up to you. It was one of the first routes I climbed there and I think you'd enjoy it. Have fun...
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cmbclimb
Sep 12, 2002, 4:38 AM
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Registered: Jun 22, 2002
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"Tahquitz and Suicide" guide book by Randy Vogel and Bob Gaines, will have all the beta you should need for the routes, descents or ?? however if you haven't been on a trad climb yet you should have someone who has take you up.
Fingertrip 5.7 is one of the best first trad climbs their
have fun
chris
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addiroids
Sep 12, 2002, 5:10 AM
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Registered: Oct 11, 2001
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I have only done Hard Lark of those you mentioned. I know it's not West Lark, but you can't really tell what you are on in that area. It's all 5.5-5.6 though. Nothing big.
El Whampo is a brilliant climb. 150' of 5.6 hand crack. Fun fun fun. It's over there on the left too.
NW Farce and all that stuff looks cool, I have just never been over that far. Probably way less crowded than anything else.
Chris (cmbclimb) mentions a good point. If you haven't been leading a lot, it is nice to have an experienced person in your party to "back you up". Taking a fellow gumby is not to good to do if you get near the end of the day and can't climb fast enough to get down before dark. Also, both descents are a bit tricky and it is just nice to have someone who knows them.
So, since I will be up there all this weekend, give me a call and we can climb. I have done over 50 routes there over like 2 years and lead most of the 5.9's there comfortably.
Fingertrip is probably my favorite route on Tahquitz and can be very reasonably protected with a set of stoppers and hexes and a single set of TCU's (just like every route under 5.9 and even some 5.10's). Wonderful route with all different types of climbing and well protected with comfortable belays. Get there early or prepare to wait a bit.
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag 909 800 5537
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climber1
Sep 12, 2002, 5:42 AM
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Registered: May 5, 2000
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NW Farce or W Lark are both good beginner routes. the descent off the northeast gully is a little tricky if you've never been there. also addiroids is right, you need to climb fast enough to get off before dark.
Left Ski Track is good also.
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fitz
Sep 12, 2002, 4:38 PM
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Registered: Jul 15, 2002
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As mentioned above, there are a lot of great lines in your current range. But, if no one in your party has been, do be really careful on the descent. There have been a number of unfortunate instances over the years.
If you are really new to multi-pitch, Left Ski Track is a really good suggestion, it is basically 3 pitches, but has nice exposure and an exciting step around move. Angel's Fright is a little longer (5 in the book, but p2 and p3 run together nicely), but a little easier in two respects, only one pitch is really 5.5/5.6, and it is very close to Lunch Rock. Finger Trip, between the two, is, as mentioned, a classic, but it is solid 5.7 (5.8 if you miss the little escape/traverse on the first pitch). If multi-pitch is new, you might want to start a little under your current comfort level while you get the hang of turn overs and rope management.
When you start working left, the routes get longer. Again, you might want to work out the kinks on swinging leads, etc. before you commit to a 800-900' route.
-jjf
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