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Partner cracklover


May 30, 2007, 5:18 PM
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Re: [notch] fun in acadia [In reply to]
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notch wrote:
Where I really got out of sorts was trying to move up from there. Butterfield mentions something to the left of Gunklandia, but I couldn't figure out what he was talking about.

You mean after the OT Ledge? I don't think there *is* a second pitch to Grendel. It's confusing, because in the book, P1 of Gunklandia ends right in the middle of P1 of Grendel. So if you're talking about *after* the OT ledge, we're talking about different things, and you tried to do a route that doesn't exist (in the butterfield book).

GO


notch


May 30, 2007, 5:48 PM
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Re: [cracklover] fun in acadia [In reply to]
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I refuse to use the little face icons on this site, however, the one with the guy blushing would be appropriate. I just got the guide book about 2 minutes ago ( I love my job! Call vendor and presto, free book overnighted!) and sure enough, there is no second pitch. I probably read that description 10 times, and each time my head transposed the reference to Gunklandia's second pitch. It's a good thing I'm beautiful, getting by on my brains doesn't seem to be working.

edited for spelling and punctuation


(This post was edited by notch on May 31, 2007, 4:46 PM)


acherry


May 30, 2007, 5:59 PM
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Re: [notch] fun in acadia [In reply to]
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Yeah, I love how the description of Grendel assumes familiarity with Gunklandia, since the whole thing is like..." Where Gunklandia goes up and left, go right for Grendel." Great. THanks.


jakedatc


May 30, 2007, 6:03 PM
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Re: [notch] fun in acadia [In reply to]
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where you work notch?

anyone heading to rumvegas this weekend?


acherry


May 30, 2007, 6:20 PM
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Re: [jakedatc] fun in acadia [In reply to]
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Jake, look at the forcast.


jakedatc


May 30, 2007, 6:25 PM
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Re: [acherry] fun in acadia [In reply to]
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shhh i'm still holding out hope.. i knew this would happen when i decided not to go last weekend.. it just works out that way. oh well.
we'll be in PA for Jesse's wedding next weekend.. so it'll have to be the weekend after that for the next chance.. then it's the rumney gathering

Jeremy you know of any climbing around Shippenville, PA ??


(This post was edited by jakedatc on May 30, 2007, 6:27 PM)


losbill


May 30, 2007, 7:44 PM
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Re: [notch] fun in acadia [In reply to]
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Notch you sold me.

Just took another look at the email you sent me. I had assumed you had taken an intermediate belay down where Gunklandia comes in from the right. I thought the business you were talking about was the crack finish to the OT ledge!!!

Seems like you ended up on Birch Ade (5.9+). Good job to get up it as far as you did. Better job to realize it wasn't a 5.6 and downclimb out'ta Dodge before you did the downflying thing!!!

With our combined route finding ability who knows where we will end up on Cannon in a couple of weeks!


(This post was edited by losbill on May 30, 2007, 7:45 PM)


notch


May 30, 2007, 8:40 PM
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Re: [losbill] fun in acadia [In reply to]
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Jake-As of about 5 months ago, I'm a buyer for LL Bean, work at the corporate office in Freeport.

Bill-I went way right off of the Grendal anchors. Much as I'd like to claim even a partial trad lead of a 5.9, I'm pretty sure I started up Gunklandia.


robbovius


May 31, 2007, 11:17 AM
Post #19209 of 22774 (7834 views)
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Re: [notch] fun in acadia [In reply to]
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Notch, I gotta tell ya, I am pretty pleased with all the quechua footwear I clean up on at the decthlon sell out. my only regret is that I didn't buy about 200 pairs of their hiking socks. ;-) the vuarde climbing shoes are great, the light hikers i got are great...good struff, too bad it's gone from the US market ;-(

all this chatter about Acadia and the Gunks is giving me some serious climbing envy, for realz. don't have much opportunity to get away until early july though I'm afraid. MAYBE the last week of june. gotta wait for guit lessons seaon to be over, and the fricken MPAC spring musical (running sound for that)


rhonius


May 31, 2007, 6:40 PM
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HP Tonight [In reply to]
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Hey guys as long as the weather holds I will be at HP after work. Usual plan... Alcove till it gets old or full. ill have yellow shirt on come say hi.

AAron


Edited for Spelling


(This post was edited by rhonius on May 31, 2007, 6:41 PM)


lucander


Jun 1, 2007, 3:11 AM
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Re: [rhonius] HP Tonight [In reply to]
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Transplanted Mass Climber living in the Gunks. Although the Bay State has nothing like MF, Try Again, or Directissima, I sure miss the Berkshire Brewing Company and their $3 twenty twos....
DL


robbovius


Jun 2, 2007, 11:05 PM
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Re: [lucander] HP Tonight [In reply to]
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rode out to purgatory today, got my climbing permit and had a good time top-roping on both the wet and muddy Geryon and the crack system across the chasm (Cerberus?) with two new aquaintances, Chris, a climber I've met at CR recently and his friend Andrea.

good climbing with good people, until the rumbles of thunder chased us out.


nurocks


Jun 3, 2007, 4:07 AM
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Re: [robbovius] HP Tonight [In reply to]
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...run away...


jakedatc


Jun 3, 2007, 4:38 AM
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Re: [nurocks] HP Tonight [In reply to]
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kinda mad i bailed on rumney but 60% chance of tstorms was a bad gamble for 3+hr drive up.. maybe it stayed dry. maybe it rained some

kicked the crap out of myself at the gym last night. gotta love failing on 5.10 but then jumping on like v4-5 i dunno boulders and making good progress..

newport chowdahhhh fest was not as tasty as last year.. but there were a few that stood out as pretty good.. but didn't win.. booo

so tempted to find someone for a wed-thurs jaunt to the gunks but i dunno


sund


Jun 5, 2007, 5:49 PM
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Bouldering @ Lincoln [In reply to]
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Hey guys, was just wondering what the black fly situation is like at Lincoln this time of year. I want to make a trip down this week but not if I'm going to come back looking like the stay puft marshmallow man. Thanks!


jakedatc


Jun 5, 2007, 6:22 PM
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Re: [sund] Bouldering @ Lincoln [In reply to]
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Black flies aren't usually a problem.. skeeters in certain areas can be bad.. it depends. if you do go i'd avoid pond cave as there might still be a dead racoon that isnt too pleasant. also there will probably bugs down there

i'd bring the bug spray or climb with a friend who attracts them more than you do.. (worked for me 2 weekends ago ;) )


sund


Jun 5, 2007, 6:58 PM
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Re: [jakedatc] Bouldering @ Lincoln [In reply to]
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haha thanks man. That technique actually worked for me 2 weekends ago too! I made sure to point it out to my buddy everytime I saw the swarm descend upon him. Ah good times, good times. Cool


benmoreite


Jun 6, 2007, 2:15 AM
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June 14-15 partner? [In reply to]
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Anyone free next week Thursday/Friday for a trip to N. Conway or the Gunks?


robbovius


Jun 6, 2007, 10:58 AM
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Re: [benmoreite] June 14-15 partner? [In reply to]
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benmoreite wrote:
Anyone free next week Thursday/Friday for a trip to N. Conway or the Gunks?

dagnabit muskie. two weeks too soon for me.


jakedatc


Jun 6, 2007, 3:57 PM
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Re: [robbovius] June 14-15 partner? [In reply to]
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Rumney this weekend pending any stupid weather changes... that is all.


robbovius


Jun 6, 2007, 5:19 PM
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Re: [jakedatc] June 14-15 partner? [In reply to]
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ahhhhhhhh, GSDSA lunchtime. I must be getting stronger and lighter. the V3 move in the downhill travese was, like, easy... making a project of the uphill travese, there's just one move -over the death stump - that hasn't quite given up it's secret yet.

nice hike, enjoyable moderate bouldering, built up a good sweat, all making for an enjoyable lunchtime workout.


Partner cracklover


Jun 6, 2007, 7:16 PM
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Yosemite Valley TR [In reply to]
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Hey, in case any of you guys are curious about my recent trip to the Valley, Allison and I wrote up a trip report. Sorry, it's long, but at least there are lots of pretty pictures to interrupt all my drivel!

Here's a link.

GO


orangekyak


Jun 10, 2007, 3:42 AM
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Re: [cracklover] Yosemite Valley TR [In reply to]
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In reply to:
eremy you know of any climbing around Shippenville, PA ??
Never heard of it.

In reply to:
uickly move all our gear over to the other end of the campground (don't ask), and we're ready to go.
Don't ask? I gotta know!

In reply to:
we had to get into Camp 4. It's first come, first served
So, you made reservations for two nights at a different campground, then queued-up for Sunnyside? Is that the best way to go?

In reply to:
I'm from New England. We don't DO cracks
Al! Come on! We do lots of crack. Nice job getting up.

FUN TR KIDS!


jakedatc


Jun 11, 2007, 4:06 AM
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Re: [orangekyak] Yosemite Valley TR [In reply to]
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Holy crap.. a whole weekend with rain and no one posted but jeremy? jeesh.

speedy TR.. maybe i'll embellish later on but it's late now..

Thurs night/fri morning.. roll into urban camping area ;) around 2am

Fri: meet up with CT crew at rumney.. rope gun all over the freaking place all day. quick parking lot, meadows, lower vadar, waimea.. gave myself the trial by fire on the Cinch belaying Cal on waimea.. thing is freaking awesome.. nice whippers.. good catches.. fun belay swinging for me.

Sat: AM rain.. visit to Conway.. got to try the sportiva Solutions on at IME.. wandered through EMS and Ragged Mtn, Met up with Tom Bowker (check your guidebook) at the Moat for some tasty lunch. headed back to rumney for a fun afternoon climbing at the meadows until it started to rain again. Had dinner at Lucky Dog.. also good eats.

Sun: woke up to rain.. cleared by 10. was on dry rock by like noon. Hit up Lower vader, Bonsai.. sussed out the sequence for Social outcast for a hopeful send at the gathering (gabe.. belay?) went back to Upper vadar for a few routes then did a quick 9 at the meadows on the way out. Decided to call it quits and head home instead of staying another day. Just wasn't quite feeling up to it.. oh well.

should have some fun pics of me on Peer pressure in a few days.


robbovius


Jun 11, 2007, 12:42 PM
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Re: [jakedatc] Yosemite Valley TR [In reply to]
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wow Gabe, those are awesome pictures of the trip you and allison took out west. I loved the dialoguing style of the TR too.

spent and afternoon at CR yesterday. it was vy wet, got tossed off a couple faves because they were akin to rivers.

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