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dreday3000
Aug 15, 2007, 6:57 PM
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Been hearing a lot of good things about North Conway. That there are 1000 foot plus routes, that the granite is great, that it's the Yosemite of the East.
That true? Been thinking about making the trip up from Maryland. If, its that good, I'll make the 10 hour plus drive. Any beta would be appreciated.
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Gmburns2000
Aug 15, 2007, 7:35 PM
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dreday3000 wrote: Been hearing a lot of good things about North Conway. That there are 1000 foot plus routes, that the granite is great, that it's the Yosemite of the East. That true? Been thinking about making the trip up from Maryland. If, its that good, I'll make the 10 hour plus drive. Any beta would be appreciated.
NoCo has a lot of good stuff on both Whitehorse and Cathedral Ledge. Mostly trad, but there are rap anchors on some routes (but some routes have been chopped, so beware - pro tends to be good on Cathedral and runout on Whitehorse). Of course, it is all route-dependent.
You'll find that some of the moderate, multi-pitch stuff has a congo line running downhill on weekends, but it's all worth it (Thin Air and Upper Refuse are classic, easy routes). There is also a fair amount of harder stuff there too. I would venture to say that it is a better destination area than Rumney is, and Rumney gets a lot of traffic. Rumney offers a completely different kind of climbing, however, so others may complain at the comparison.
I'll be there this weekend and will hopefully have a full report on my blog by next week. Hopefully that helps. Otherwise, the MassClimbers thread has a lot of guys who have a lot of experience up there.
What are you trying to climb?
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dreday3000
Aug 15, 2007, 7:44 PM
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Thanks for the info, I will defiantly check out your blog.
Hoping to do long trad routes, the longer the better really. Most we get around MD are 2/3 pitches around Seneca, so getting a little higher off the deck would be appreciated.
In terms of difficulty I'd be pretty happy in the 5.10 range. From what I hear, the grades are stiff so I'll start on the easier end but Seneca ain't exactly a cake walk so hopefully the grades are similar. Also, I don't mind run outs too much so if White horse is high quality, that might be the spot of me.
Any recommendations?
Thanks
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Gmburns2000
Aug 15, 2007, 8:07 PM
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dreday3000 wrote: Thanks for the info, I will defiantly check out your blog. Hoping to do long trad routes, the longer the better really. Most we get around MD are 2/3 pitches around Seneca, so getting a little higher off the deck would be appreciated. In terms of difficulty I'd be pretty happy in the 5.10 range. From what I hear, the grades are stiff so I'll start on the easier end but Seneca ain't exactly a cake walk so hopefully the grades are similar. Also, I don't mind run outs too much so if White horse is high quality, that might be the spot of me. Any recommendations? Thanks
Defiance is patriotic, my friend. I'll grin and bear it.
Remission (5.8)
Thin Air (5.7)
Upper Refuse (5.6)
Recompense (5.9 - stiff 2nd pitch)
Bombardment (5.8)
Diedre (5.9)
That'll start you off.
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jakedatc
Aug 16, 2007, 3:21 AM
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Could take a look at Cannon too for even longer multi trad.. with probably less traffic
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btreanor
Aug 16, 2007, 3:51 AM
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How is North Conway?
Rad.
And that is the opinion of someone who lives and climbs in CA (Sierras, Yosemite, Josh, Needles, etc., etc.) and climbs regularly in UT and CO. Do the drive. You won't be disappointed. That whole area rocks summer and winter.
Brian
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joeforte
Aug 16, 2007, 4:22 AM
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Skip the crouds at whitehorse and cathedral. They were crazy chaotic when I was there, so we climbed the pinnacle ridge of mt. washington. 8 pitches of 5.4-5.9, depending on how hard you wanted to make it. Then we did "Across the universe" at mount willard. HIGHLY RECOMENDED! Easy approach, 5.10a slab runnout climbing. 4 pitches long, about 500 ft. high I'd estimate. Every pitch was fun! Bolted Belay/Rap anchors kept things smooth and easy. Took us (5.9 gunks climbers) 3 hours to climb and descend, and it would have been faster if I wasn't so scared shitless the first pitch. I had never climbed slab before, so I was "adjusting" haha. The view from the top is breathtaking though. Great Exposure. I can't wait to climb Cannon!
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Gmburns2000
Aug 23, 2007, 4:31 PM
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dreday3000 wrote: Thanks for the info, I will defiantly check out your blog. Hoping to do long trad routes, the longer the better really. Most we get around MD are 2/3 pitches around Seneca, so getting a little higher off the deck would be appreciated. In terms of difficulty I'd be pretty happy in the 5.10 range. From what I hear, the grades are stiff so I'll start on the easier end but Seneca ain't exactly a cake walk so hopefully the grades are similar. Also, I don't mind run outs too much so if White horse is high quality, that might be the spot of me. Any recommendations? Thanks
Notes are up. Didn't get a lot of climbing in, but enough to be satisfied.
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dreday3000
Aug 23, 2007, 4:51 PM
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Good notes, sounds like you got quite a bit of climbing in to me. 
Thanks for the info. Looks like I'm gonna make a trip up the second week of sept. Probably Canon.
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dreday3000
Aug 23, 2007, 4:59 PM
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Cool, I'll keep any eye out for you.
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dreday3000
Aug 23, 2007, 5:29 PM
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How long is the hike to Canon?
Thinking about doing a fairly strenuous 8 pitcher so I'm trying to figure out how much time to budget.
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tradmanclimbs
Aug 23, 2007, 7:26 PM
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NH rateings are a bit softer than daks or Seneca. Cathedral is nice, clean and stable but short. most climbs not longer than 400ft. recomended are Ventilator10b to The Book of Solemity 10a
Recombeast 5.9 w/ prow finish 10a
Diedre 5.9
The Prow 5.10 C1+ or 11d
Bombardment to Black lung 5.8
White horse is good as well with the south buttress being a bit less crowded and some climbs a bit longer. Recomended.
Inferno 5.8
Atlantis 10b
lost Soles 10a
lady slipper 9+
hotter than hell/ cold day in hell 5.9
last unicorn 10c w/ sky streak start.
loose lips 10a
Sea of holes w/ 5.8 finish.
Cannon is Big with an alpine feel and all the dangers that go with that. Its a total choss pile and will fall down at any moment. Major rockfall is the norm here. Its the most active cliff I have witnessed. that being said the climbing is great and it the biggest game we have here in the north east. Approach for normal people 20 to 45 min. Moby grape has been climbed car to car in 50 min but that ain't normal Moby is hands down the best multi pitch 5.8 in the east but its also pretty darn crouded. 5 partys on it yesterday!! three duces and two threesoms. WG ridge , Vertigo, union jack, VMC direct direct, SSS, duet etc. are all good choices with WG and Moby allmost gaurenteed to have partys stacked up at the base. Accross the universe on Willard is a great climb as well. Lots of other cool stuff arround.
(This post was edited by tradmanclimbs on Aug 23, 2007, 7:46 PM)
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