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jakedatc
Aug 16, 2007, 11:51 PM
Post #51 of 61
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It's not my fault you're using your gear incorrectly.
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dallas27
Aug 17, 2007, 12:04 AM
Post #52 of 61
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jakedatc wrote: It's not my fault you're using your gear incorrectly.
I have never seen a harness manual with a picture of belay from the harness and a red x through it, which you would see since the belay loop is a recent invention, and everyone belayed this way in a slingshot belay back then.
Now, please take this elsewhere, you obviously want to profuse your knowledge, not discuss.
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jt512
Aug 17, 2007, 1:33 AM
Post #53 of 61
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dallas27 wrote: jakedatc wrote: It's not my fault you're using your gear incorrectly. I have never seen a harness manual with a picture of belay from the harness and a red x through it, which you would see since the belay loop is a recent invention, and everyone belayed this way in a slingshot belay back then.
In fact, all new Petzl harnesses come with a bright green belay loop with a diagram right on the loop showing it as the attachment point for the belay device. Furthermore, their website as well as a notice that comes with the harness says this:
"The green belay loop identifies the point where the belay device/descender must be connected. It is the strongest part of the harness."
In reply to: Now, please take this elsewhere...
Why? Because you need more than 3 pages of responses telling you that there is no specific name for the dysfunctional belay style you asked about?
Jay
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curt
Aug 17, 2007, 1:38 AM
Post #54 of 61
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dallas27 wrote: jakedatc wrote: It's not my fault you're using your gear incorrectly. I have never seen a harness manual with a picture of belay from the harness and a red x through it, which you would see since the belay loop is a recent invention, and everyone belayed this way in a slingshot belay back then. Now, please take this elsewhere, you obviously want to profuse your knowledge, not discuss.
It sounds to me that you are just not interested in hearing that you are using your equipment improperly--which you are, if you are not belaying off the belay loop.
Curt
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dallas27
Aug 17, 2007, 1:51 AM
Post #55 of 61
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I'm following advice of the guy who designed harnesses for years at BD.
"The belay loop is designed for rappelling and belaying only. Use it if you find it convenient."
"Belay loops were invented ... to solve the problem of having no obvious place to clip into a harness for belaying and rappelling. The idea caught on because many people found it convenient."
-TomJones -BD
Personally, I'm pretty sure the loop is so universally recommended by manufacturers as to prevent all the newbies out there from anchoring to the the harness tie in poiints or the loop and not the biner, thus prevent accident from shearing forces on the harness.
(This post was edited by dallas27 on Aug 17, 2007, 1:56 AM)
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jakedatc
Aug 17, 2007, 1:54 AM
Post #56 of 61
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dallas27 wrote: jakedatc wrote: It's not my fault you're using your gear incorrectly. I have never seen a harness manual with a picture of belay from the harness and a red x through it, which you would see since the belay loop is a recent invention, and everyone belayed this way in a slingshot belay back then. Now, please take this elsewhere, you obviously want to profuse your knowledge, not discuss.
It's right in the fucking video you posted.. "Attach reverso to the BELAY loop of your harness"
New invention? hardly. Learn how to use your gear.
On topic.. the way that guy takes up slack looks scary to me.. If the climber fell when he's sliding the brake hand back up towards the belay device it's asking for trouble since with anything less than a static rope you'd have to loosen your grip quite a bit to let it go through.
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jt512
Aug 17, 2007, 1:56 AM
Post #57 of 61
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dallas27 wrote: "The belay loop is designed for rappelling and belaying only. Use it if you find it convenient." "Belay loops were invented ... to solve the problem of having no obvious place to clip into a harness for belaying and rappelling. The idea caught on because many people found it convenient." -TomJones -BD
He said that, like, 10 years ago, and worked for the only company in the industry that still produces a harness without a belay loop. Obviously, other manufacturers disagree with BD about this. And, since you ignored the inconvenient point, I'll reiterate that Petzl states that the belay loop is the only acceptable place on the harness to attach the belay device.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Aug 17, 2007, 1:57 AM)
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jakedatc
Aug 17, 2007, 2:03 AM
Post #58 of 61
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dallas27 wrote: I'm following advice of the guy who designed harnesses for years at BD. "The belay loop is designed for rappelling and belaying only. Use it if you find it convenient." "Belay loops were invented ... to solve the problem of having no obvious place to clip into a harness for belaying and rappelling. The idea caught on because many people found it convenient." -TomJones -BD
where did you find that?
"When using belay and rappel devices, they should only be attached to the belay loop." - Black diamond Technical notice for harnesses
"Always read the instructions and warnings that accompany your gear."
http://www.bdel.com/gear/momentum.php look under Directions for use
Petzl. Here you go... BIG FREAKING X, NOOB
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jt512
Aug 17, 2007, 2:31 AM
Post #59 of 61
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jakedatc wrote: dallas27 wrote: I'm following advice of the guy who designed harnesses for years at BD. "The belay loop is designed for rappelling and belaying only. Use it if you find it convenient." "Belay loops were invented ... to solve the problem of having no obvious place to clip into a harness for belaying and rappelling. The idea caught on because many people found it convenient." -TomJones -BD where did you find that? " When using belay and rappel devices, they should only be attached to the belay loop." - Black diamond Technical notice for harnesses "Always read the instructions and warnings that accompany your gear." http://www.bdel.com/gear/momentum.php look under Directions for use
The quote he posted was originally posted to rec.climbing a number of years ago. It appears that even BD has changed its opinion (finally).
Jay
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rockguide
Aug 17, 2007, 5:52 AM
Post #60 of 61
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Registered: Nov 8, 2004
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dallas27 wrote: go the petzl.com and click on the reverso product under descenders. Watch the video via the link in the lower left. Skip to about 1/8 to 1/4 in the video where a guy is belaying a girl in what seems to be the 2001 space oddyssey station. This link _should_ take you their. http://en.petzl.com/petzl/SportProduits?Produit=204 He uses the brake hand plam down, and feeds & slips, using the guide hand to manage the friction. What's it called? thanks in advance
I call it ... belaying.
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cgailey
Aug 27, 2007, 6:57 AM
Post #61 of 61
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
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I haven't read or posted on this site in a long time, but this is hilarious! Nothing has changed...
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