|
|
|
|
dovelette
Feb 23, 2008, 1:16 AM
Post #1 of 103
(19357 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 3, 2008
Posts: 25
|
I really hate to post a question like this and am hoping some kind person will talk to me off the list and be patient, but...
I just don't understand what everyone is saying when I read the past threads about starting a trad rack. YES I PROMISE I did searches on the forums for it. I have a whole list of what I need, of why I need things...but I just don't understand what it means.
For new people there is so much lingo thrown in with the advice that after 300 posts I am more lost now than when I started. I don't live near much climbing so I need a versitile rack that can travel to climbing "destinations." And I don't have a mentor that I can follow around, it's just too damn cold up here.
I want to build a starter trad rack. I am interested in the following:
-Aprox. 30 non locking biners - but how do I know which to pick? Wire gates? Bent? Straight? Does it matter?
-Aprox. 10 sewn runners - but which ones, what length etc? What material?
-Slings - double and single length...but now I'm just spouting rhetoric and I don't even know the difference between the two, or what a sling vs. runner is since so many people use different terms for different things.
-Stoppers - oy. Yeah ok, a set of BD's, but why BD's over the ABC Huevo's? And what about the Metolis curved ones? And what about DMM Wallnuts? I mean which is the best, most cost effective combo??
-Cams - just clueless here. Yeah, just fork out the $$ for at least one of .5 thru 3 and double up on the 1' and 2's.
- Quadcams and tri cams - huh??
- handful of locking biners - got that one, probably the only thing I understand so far.
- cord-o-let - what is this?
- a daisy chain- does it mater the specifics of what I get? Brands etc?
- a set of hex's, slung (good on those too - ebay baby, and stick with the larger ones - check)
That, from what I have gathered, is what would make a nice, sweet, starter rack.
But really I just don't get the lingo. And when I ask questions about gear, all I get are responses in lingo that I don't speak yet. Not all of us are lucky enough to have people around them they can talk with face to face about climbing, and we are so more than willing to stand our butts on the ground and practice placing pro for hours until we "get it." But i can't even start that without gear, and I can't get gear because I don't understand what anyone is saying.
Can someone, anyone, msg me privately so I don't get the whole forum pissed off and help me out a bit??
|
|
|
|
|
reno
Feb 23, 2008, 1:47 AM
Post #2 of 103
(19316 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 30, 2001
Posts: 18283
|
dovelette wrote: I want to build a starter trad rack. I am interested in the following:
OK, my answers are in italics.
-Aprox. 30 non locking biners - but how do I know which to pick? Wire gates? Bent? Straight? Does it matter?
Some of each. Ovals are nice when you wish to reverse/oppose a placement, wire gates are lighter, bent are easier to clip (probably NOT an issue for a new trad climber.) My trad rack has 75% BD Hotwire 'biners, a few ovals, two locking biners (BD Quicksilver) and no bent gates.
-Aprox. 10 sewn runners - but which ones, what length etc? What material?
Again, highly dependent on what you value. The thin, light Dyneema slings are, well, thin and light. They're also not quite as durable as a nylon sling, and reports of their effectiveness as prussic knots vary from "Yeah, they work" to "Nope, they suck." Length should vary as well: I have about eight 24" runners, four 36" runners, and one 48" runner.
-Slings - double and single length...but now I'm just spouting rhetoric and I don't even know the difference between the two, or what a sling vs. runner is since so many people use different terms for different things.
24" loop = single length. You can probably figure out how long a double length runner would be.
-Stoppers - oy. Yeah ok, a set of BD's, but why BD's over the ABC Huevo's? And what about the Metolis curved ones? And what about DMM Wallnuts? I mean which is the best, most cost effective combo??
-Cams - just clueless here. Yeah, just fork out the $$ for at least one of .5 thru 3 and double up on the 1' and 2's.
Stoppers and, to a greater degree, cams, are a matter of personal preference in my opinion. With the notable exception of CCH Alien cams, most major brands have a good reputation as quality devices that work. It becomes more a matter of "How does the cam feel in my hand?" Some folks prefer Metolius. Others like Wild Country. Many prefer BD. A few will swear by DMM, Trango, etc. The best advice I can give here is to find folks with different brands and try them out. See how you like each brand. Then buy what you like.
- Quadcams and tri cams - huh??
Quad cams will have 4 camming lobes. Tricams -- well, this can get confusing. Some folks are talking about Three-Cam Units (a.k.a. TCU), or cams with 3 lobes instead of 4. Usually, though, the term "Tricam" refers to THESE, which are a whole 'nother ball game.
- handful of locking biners - got that one, probably the only thing I understand so far.
Good. 
- cord-o-let - what is this?
Generally, a 21 foot length of 6-7mm perlon cord tied into a loop with a triple fisherman's knot. The use of it is far too complicated to go into here. Best you learn from someone with experience.
- a daisy chain- does it mater the specifics of what I get? Brands etc?
You don't need one. But, if you insist on carrying extra weight without any specific function, then no, it doesn't really matter.
- a set of hex's, slung (good on those too - ebay baby, and stick with the larger ones - check)
Good.
That, from what I have gathered, is what would make a nice, sweet, starter rack.
Yep. It'd also make a nice dent into your checking account. The only thing you're missing is someone to show you how it all works and how to use it safely.
(This post was edited by reno on Feb 23, 2008, 1:49 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
coastal_climber
Feb 23, 2008, 1:49 AM
Post #4 of 103
(19309 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 17, 2006
Posts: 2542
|
This should help with some of the "lingo" http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._Dictionary_528.html
In reply to: -Aprox. 30 non locking biners - but how do I know which to pick? Wire gates? Bent? Straight? Does it matter?
Biners are your choice. Bent gates are handy for clipping, wiregates weigh less. It usually comes down to personal preference, as everyone is going to tell you something different.
In reply to: -Aprox. 10 sewn runners - but which ones, what length etc? What material?
I have 7 60cm slings, and about 4 140cm. Any good brand should do. (sterling, black diamond, etc) Dynex is lighter, but more expensive. Nylon is the opposite. Again, your choice.
Single length sling is one you can put over your shoulder without looping it, double length is twice that.
For your pro, the best bet is to go with someone that has a selection, learn how to use it, see which is best for you. Cam's are all pretty versatile.
In reply to: cord-o-let - what is this?
About 5m (thats what I use most) of around 7mm "static" cord that is used in many anchor senarios. Get about 20m to start, and cut it to use.
In reply to: a daisy chain- does it mater the specifics of what I get? Brands etc?
I thought you were starting trad? If you want a quick connection to your anchor, the metolius PAS is a good choice. Sterling also has another sewn pocket connection too.
>Cam
|
|
|
|
|
tolman_paul
Feb 23, 2008, 1:56 AM
Post #5 of 103
(19291 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 22, 2005
Posts: 385
|
Can't add much to what's been said, but will add then when going to climbs that require a repel and don't see alot of traffic, it's a good idea to have a few 10' lengths of webbing to tie replacement slings. Use neutral colors like black, grey or brown depending on the rocks. And please remove the faded and abraded slings. It can be tough to untie the old slings, so a small knife is needed to cut them.
For runners I think the 24" loops are generally the best way to go, double or tipple them to shorten them if you rack them on your harness, and undo the loops as needed to lengthen them.
As to biners, I'd say mostly D wiregates. I like to carry at least 4 ovals for setting up points to tie in at belays.
I'd also say forget the daisy. It is useful for experienced climbers to speed things up, but for a beginning leader it will just get in the way.
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Feb 23, 2008, 2:02 AM
Post #6 of 103
(19277 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
dovelette wrote: I really hate to post a question like this and am hoping some kind person will talk to me off the list and be patient, but... I just don't understand what everyone is saying when I read the past threads about starting a trad rack. YES I PROMISE I did searches on the forums for it. I have a whole list of what I need, of why I need things...but I just don't understand what it means. For new people there is so much lingo thrown in with the advice that after 300 posts I am more lost now than when I started. I don't live near much climbing so I need a versitile rack that can travel to climbing "destinations." And I don't have a mentor that I can follow around, it's just too damn cold up here. I want to build a starter trad rack. I am interested in the following: -Aprox. 30 non locking biners - but how do I know which to pick? Wire gates? Bent? Straight? Does it matter? -Aprox. 10 sewn runners - but which ones, what length etc? What material? -Slings - double and single length...but now I'm just spouting rhetoric and I don't even know the difference between the two, or what a sling vs. runner is since so many people use different terms for different things. -Stoppers - oy. Yeah ok, a set of BD's, but why BD's over the ABC Huevo's? And what about the Metolis curved ones? And what about DMM Wallnuts? I mean which is the best, most cost effective combo?? -Cams - just clueless here. Yeah, just fork out the $$ for at least one of .5 thru 3 and double up on the 1' and 2's. - Quadcams and tri cams - huh?? - handful of locking biners - got that one, probably the only thing I understand so far. - cord-o-let - what is this? - a daisy chain- does it mater the specifics of what I get? Brands etc? - a set of hex's, slung (good on those too - ebay baby, and stick with the larger ones - check) That, from what I have gathered, is what would make a nice, sweet, starter rack. But really I just don't get the lingo. And when I ask questions about gear, all I get are responses in lingo that I don't speak yet. Not all of us are lucky enough to have people around them they can talk with face to face about climbing, and we are so more than willing to stand our butts on the ground and practice placing pro for hours until we "get it." But i can't even start that without gear, and I can't get gear because I don't understand what anyone is saying. Can someone, anyone, msg me privately so I don't get the whole forum pissed off and help me out a bit??
These questions are answered in every beginning book about rock climbing. Why don't you read one instead of trying to learn everything on an internet forum.
Jay
|
|
|
|
|
kricir
Feb 23, 2008, 2:05 AM
Post #7 of 103
(19269 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 15, 2005
Posts: 434
|
Biners- get wire gate biners. Bent gates are really only good for the clipping end of a quick draw, and even then wire gates do just as well there. They are lighter and don't suffer from gate whiplash like a strait or bent gate does.
The # of biners you get depends on what else you get. For every sling you get get 2 biners for it. For every cam get 1 biner for it. For racking nuts, get one or two biners that rack the nuts nicely (I like omega dovals for this)
Slings - Slings and runners are the same thing. A standard length (single) sling (runner) is a 21-24'' loop. If you cut it it would be a single strand 42-28'' (but don't cut it duh!) 10 slings would be a good place to start, with 20 biners to go along with them. 1 or 2 double length slings are good to have too.
nuts - Nuts are very low tech, some have advantages but really, they are basically all the same. BD nuts seem to have become standard in the U.S. but wallnuts and others are good too.
cams - most people will say BD is the way to go. .4 - 2 or 3 are the work horse sizes that get used the most. Double up as many as you can afford to.
tricams, hexes, and other trickery - don't even worry about these. No one I know use them regularly.
cordelette - this is used for building anchors. Use 6 or 7mm nylon cord because it will not wear out like tech cord, and is cheaper. I like to use a 21 foot piece of 6mm cord. tie it in a loop.
Daisy chain - you don't really need one, but if you must, get a metolius P.A.S.
other things - nut tool, for getting stuck pro out. Small knife for cutting cord or rope for rap anchors or in emergencies. Prussic sling - this is a tied loop of 6mm cord , a little smaller than a standard sling, for backing up rappels and other tasks. Oh, and of obviously, a belay device & locker, and 2-3 other lockers.
education - learn what you are doing! Read alot, (books about climbing, not just this site)
lingo - check out this
http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._Dictionary_528.html
|
|
|
|
|
dovelette
Feb 23, 2008, 2:07 AM
Post #8 of 103
(19261 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 3, 2008
Posts: 25
|
I've read quite a few books now, and, as I posted before, I just don't get it. Sorry to inconvience you, and sorry some people who don't have anyone to bounce questions off of in "real time" need to use internet forums. But maybe instead of being an ass in most of your replies you could just, I dunno, not respond.
|
|
|
|
|
shoo
Feb 23, 2008, 2:10 AM
Post #9 of 103
(19252 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 22, 2006
Posts: 1501
|
Ok, I'm going to go ahead and post this and not PM it. Here we go. . .
First things first. Chances are, if you don't know most of this stuff already, you probably shouldn't be buying your own rack at the moment. Go find a mentor to second, then start looking into buying your own stuff. The area you're climbing will determine what your rack should look like, not a forum.
Since you have already stated that you are unable to find a mentor, you need to be taking classes and clinics. There are many things in trad that you won't just "get" by trying on your own. Supplement that with reading. Climbing Anchors by John Long is a good place to start. Of course, Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills is also very good.
Biner selection: A lot of this is preference. Straight gates are pretty much middle ground on everything. Wire gates are lighter and less prone to gate flutter (do a search). Bent gates are easier to clip the rope into. My suggestion would be to get a around 20ish wire or straight gates and 10ish bent gates. You could do fine with only straight or bent gates.
Slings/runners: Same thing. Brand doesn't matter too much, but material does a bit. Skinny spectra slings are nice because they're super lightweight and really easy to handle, but are really expensive and tend to wear faster. Nylon slings are just fine for making trad draws (again, do a search). The majority of your slings should be single length, but you should probably get a couple of double lengths for good measure (maybe 8 and 2 or 7 and 3).
Stoppers: If there were one that was clearly superior to the rest, there would only be one. Each has something a little different to offer. BDs are generally considered the standard middle ground.
Cams: Oy, where to begin. If you're going with BD Camalots (again, pretty much the standard), then yes, that's a pretty good starting range. Maybe add the #4 to that as well. Quadcam just means an active camming unit with 4 cam lobes. Some have 3.
Tricams: Something different entirely from an active camming unit (commonly called cams, above). Picture link below. You either tend to love tricams or hate them. The #.5-#2 pack is a good starter if you're in the former category.
http://www.w-trek.com/images/camp_tricam.jpg
Cordolette: This is one of many unfortunately names that can be used to refer to multiple things. In this case, it means a 21 ft piece of cord (usually 5.5-8mm, depending on material and preference) used for making anchors. It could also refer to one method of making anchors with this kind of cord. If you plan to do multi-pitch, get two. Research generally shows that nylon cord is the way to go due to stretching and wear properties, and 7mm is a pretty standard diameter.
Daisy chain: Skip this. Daisy chains are for aid climbing. You don't really need or want one no matter how neat they are.
Hexs: Again, either love or hate. It looks like you've gotten that taken care of.
Hope this helps!
|
|
|
|
|
dingus
Feb 23, 2008, 2:10 AM
Post #10 of 103
(19252 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
|
Don't go jiggling the worm too much now, you'll scare off the lunkers.
DMT
|
|
|
|
|
shoo
Feb 23, 2008, 2:10 AM
Post #11 of 103
(19251 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 22, 2006
Posts: 1501
|
In the time of typing this, three other people already answered. Damn.
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Feb 23, 2008, 2:12 AM
Post #12 of 103
(19249 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
dovelette wrote: I've read quite a few books now, and, as I posted before, I just don't get it. Sorry to inconvience you, and sorry some people who don't have anyone to bounce questions off of in "real time" need to use internet forums. But maybe instead of being an ass in most of your replies you could just, I dunno, not respond.
Then I change my advice. You shouldn't have bothered to read any of those books, since you are incapable of understanding them. It just took me about 30 seconds to follow bobruef's link and find the answers to half the questions you posted by reading the pages from the book online. What would you do if the internet didn't exist, anyway? Quit the sport? Hmmm.
Jay
|
|
|
|
|
yokese
Feb 23, 2008, 2:13 AM
Post #13 of 103
(19246 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 18, 2006
Posts: 672
|
I hope this does not to come across as a harsh reply, but based on your questions it seems to me that you have a lot to learn BEFORE getting all that gear. If you don't have easy access to more experienced climbers, get at least a good book and start learning from the very beginning. Having a bunch of gear and not being sure how to use is way more dangerous than not having gear at all.
Also, I'd advise you against using internet as the main source of knowledge for climbing. Good info is too often obscured under a pile of nonsense.
|
|
|
|
|
hosh
Feb 23, 2008, 2:13 AM
Post #14 of 103
(19243 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 15, 2003
Posts: 1662
|
PM sent.
hosh.
|
|
|
|
|
reno
Feb 23, 2008, 2:15 AM
Post #15 of 103
(19238 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 30, 2001
Posts: 18283
|
One last suggestion:
Put up a post in the proper forum for the area you live. Say, if you live in Oregon or Cali, post in the West Coast forum. State up front that you want someone to teach you how trad gear works, and help you grow as a climber.
Be 100% totally honest about your abilities when you do. People don't mind teaching someone who knows nothing, but they DO mind teaching someone who lies about their skills. Dishonesty is pretty easy to spot when out on the crag.
Find a mentor partner, offer to drive (or pay for gas if you don't have wheels,) and don't forget to buy a couple beers post-climb. Someone will take you up on it, almost certain.
|
|
|
|
|
moose_droppings
Feb 23, 2008, 2:32 AM
Post #17 of 103
(19205 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3371
|
Biners- wire gates are probably the best all around trad rack biner. Its all up in the air as to which kind, you'll hear a dozen different suggestions. Get a well respected brand name with an open gate strength of at least 8kn, 10kn is even better but a little more pricey usually.
Runners- Another depends who you ask, but I'd say go with 2' x 5/8ths nylon. Get a t least a couple of 4' ones too. Can't hardly beat these for the price and quality.
http://cgi.ebay.com/...QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Cams- What you got listed is a good starting point, maybe a couple smaller ones. Ask others in areas where you climb which ones are needed the most.
Quadcams and tri cams_ Four lobe or three lobe cams. Three Cam Units place in smaller slots and can be a little trickier to place than the Four Cam Units. Go to different cam manufactuers sites and read all the different specs.
Stoppers- ABC's are plenty good enough. As usual this will get as many different answers as there are different kinds.
cord-o-let- Approximently 20' of 7mm perlon cord tied in a loop with a double fisherman's knot and used for building anchors, has other uses in a pinch.
daisy chain- Forget a daisy for now.
set of hex's- Depends, but yes I like them and use mostly the larger half of the set and prefer them wired.
*note* sets the drag on the reel and waits
edited to add:
shoo wrote: In the time of typing this, three other people already answered. Damn.
(This post was edited by moose_droppings on Feb 23, 2008, 2:44 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
kane_schutzman
Feb 23, 2008, 3:11 AM
Post #18 of 103
(19160 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 14, 2005
Posts: 896
|
shoo wrote: Ok, I'm going to go ahead and post this and not PM it. Here we go. . . First things first. Chances are, if you don't know most of this stuff already, you probably shouldn't be buying your own rack at the moment. Go find a mentor to second, then start looking into buying your own stuff. The area you're climbing will determine what your rack should look like, not a forum. Since you have already stated that you are unable to find a mentor, you need to be taking classes and clinics. There are many things in trad that you won't just "get" by trying on your own. Supplement that with reading. Climbing Anchors by John Long is a good place to start. Of course, Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills is also very good. Biner selection: A lot of this is preference. Straight gates are pretty much middle ground on everything. Wire gates are lighter and less prone to gate flutter (do a search). Bent gates are easier to clip the rope into. My suggestion would be to get a around 20ish wire or straight gates and 10ish bent gates. You could do fine with only straight or bent gates. Slings/runners: Same thing. Brand doesn't matter too much, but material does a bit. Skinny spectra slings are nice because they're super lightweight and really easy to handle, but are really expensive and tend to wear faster. Nylon slings are just fine for making trad draws (again, do a search). The majority of your slings should be single length, but you should probably get a couple of double lengths for good measure (maybe 8 and 2 or 7 and 3). Stoppers: If there were one that was clearly superior to the rest, there would only be one. Each has something a little different to offer. BDs are generally considered the standard middle ground. Cams: Oy, where to begin. If you're going with BD Camalots (again, pretty much the standard), then yes, that's a pretty good starting range. Maybe add the #4 to that as well. Quadcam just means an active camming unit with 4 cam lobes. Some have 3. Tricams: Something different entirely from an active camming unit (commonly called cams, above). Picture link below. You either tend to love tricams or hate them. The #.5-#2 pack is a good starter if you're in the former category. http://www.w-trek.com/images/camp_tricam.jpg Cordolette: This is one of many unfortunately names that can be used to refer to multiple things. In this case, it means a 21 ft piece of cord (usually 5.5-8mm, depending on material and preference) used for making anchors. It could also refer to one method of making anchors with this kind of cord. If you plan to do multi-pitch, get two. Research generally shows that nylon cord is the way to go due to stretching and wear properties, and 7mm is a pretty standard diameter. Daisy chain: Skip this. Daisy chains are for aid climbing. You don't really need or want one no matter how neat they are. Hexs: Again, either love or hate. It looks like you've gotten that taken care of. Hope this helps!
Get a guide.
(This post was edited by kane_schutzman on Feb 23, 2008, 8:53 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
bkalaska
Feb 23, 2008, 5:02 AM
Post #19 of 103
(19069 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 16, 2005
Posts: 143
|
My initial impression is that you need to learn from a live person. It is perfectly reasonable for you to have a little difficulty with the lingo of a new sport, but rock climbing is not like other sports that can just be picked up. This isn't basketball because you can get seriously hurt. I love to see people get into the sport, but I do not want to see you get hurt or hurt someone else.
Here is my advice and you can ignore it if you want but please read through...
Figure out how much you would spend on cams alone and then consider that you could get two or three days of quality instruction from a certified guide for that price. In a world of DIY and instant gratification some things still take time, and learning to climb is absolutely one of those things. If you are talking about doing a climb that requires gear you are talking about your life after all. So here is all the gear you need:
Helmet
Harness
Belay device: Petzl GriGri or Black Damond ATC (The ATC can be bought with a Locking carabiner included)
1 Locking biner (if you didn't get it with ATC)
3 days with a guide who can answer your questions.
NOTHING HAS BEEN MORE VALUABLE TO MY CLIMBING THAN HIRING A GUIDE. The skills I learned from guides took me to a level where I could climb safely and confidently with other better climbers which is when I started becoming a better climber. Without a guide I might not have been trustworthy as a partner and would not have gotten to do the things I've done.
|
|
|
|
|
majid_sabet
Feb 23, 2008, 5:31 AM
Post #20 of 103
(19036 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390
|
dovelette wrote: I really hate to post a question like this and am hoping some kind person will talk to me off the list and be patient, but... I just don't understand what everyone is saying when I read the past threads about starting a trad rack. YES I PROMISE I did searches on the forums for it. I have a whole list of what I need, of why I need things...but I just don't understand what it means. For new people there is so much lingo thrown in with the advice that after 300 posts I am more lost now than when I started. I don't live near much climbing so I need a versitile rack that can travel to climbing "destinations." And I don't have a mentor that I can follow around, it's just too damn cold up here. I want to build a starter trad rack. I am interested in the following: -Aprox. 30 non locking biners - but how do I know which to pick? Wire gates? Bent? Straight? Does it matter? -Aprox. 10 sewn runners - but which ones, what length etc? What material? -Slings - double and single length...but now I'm just spouting rhetoric and I don't even know the difference between the two, or what a sling vs. runner is since so many people use different terms for different things. -Stoppers - oy. Yeah ok, a set of BD's, but why BD's over the ABC Huevo's? And what about the Metolis curved ones? And what about DMM Wallnuts? I mean which is the best, most cost effective combo?? -Cams - just clueless here. Yeah, just fork out the $$ for at least one of .5 thru 3 and double up on the 1' and 2's. - Quadcams and tri cams - huh?? - handful of locking biners - got that one, probably the only thing I understand so far. - cord-o-let - what is this? - a daisy chain- does it mater the specifics of what I get? Brands etc? - a set of hex's, slung (good on those too - ebay baby, and stick with the larger ones - check) That, from what I have gathered, is what would make a nice, sweet, starter rack. But really I just don't get the lingo. And when I ask questions about gear, all I get are responses in lingo that I don't speak yet. Not all of us are lucky enough to have people around them they can talk with face to face about climbing, and we are so more than willing to stand our butts on the ground and practice placing pro for hours until we "get it." But i can't even start that without gear, and I can't get gear because I don't understand what anyone is saying. Can someone, anyone, msg me privately so I don't get the whole forum pissed off and help me out a bit??
look, just get a set of trad gear like the one I got for a friend few days ago and get it over with and stop wasting your time asking people about trad gear.
http://cgi.ebay.com/...K:MEWN:IT&ih=015
|
|
|
|
|
reno
Feb 23, 2008, 5:32 AM
Post #21 of 103
(19033 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 30, 2001
Posts: 18283
|
kane_schutzman wrote: I going to go against the grain and politely say fuck this. Dude, you don't need classes, you dont need clinics, and you don't need a mentor.
Coming from the guy who has asked which boots, sleeping bag, ice axe, crampons, balacalva, stoves, harness, clothing systems, and pulleys are the best...
...along with questions on how to rope solo, cross a glacier, what sort of 4 season tent to buy, and if mittens are needed for Himalaya climbing...
... I'd say you're hardly the person to give any advice about climbing, Kane.
|
|
|
|
|
villageidiot
Feb 23, 2008, 6:25 AM
Post #22 of 103
(18993 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 12, 2005
Posts: 104
|
If you are serious, don't buy stuff because it is cheap. You'll probably want the lighter or slicker version after awhile . I agree with Kane you don't need a mentor, rock climbing is not rocket science and there are several good texts out there. You're mileage may vary though...
|
|
|
|
|
kane_schutzman
Feb 23, 2008, 6:37 AM
Post #23 of 103
(18982 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 14, 2005
Posts: 896
|
reno wrote: kane_schutzman wrote: I going to go against the grain and politely say fuck this. Dude, you don't need classes, you dont need clinics, and you don't need a mentor. Coming from the guy who has asked which boots, sleeping bag, ice axe, crampons, balacalva, stoves, harness, clothing systems, and pulleys are the best... ...along with questions on how to rope solo, cross a glacier, what sort of 4 season tent to buy, and if mittens are needed for Himalaya climbing... ... I'd say you're hardly the person to give any advice about climbing, Kane.
Your right, and in my first year of climbing I have, climbed 5.12, Ice WI5, bouldered V6, and also soloed baker twice and rainier is in the cards in a couple weeks. Not including the other small peaks. Btw, this all done by a 18 yo whos from Louisiana and never seen boots, an ice axe, himalayan mitts(when did I ask this),and a four season tent. Wow dude, I ask others about gear I can't see, Id rather not waste my money. Once again, no mentor told me what to buy and I seem to be doing just fine. I could care less about those numbers, so don't bring that up. I don't give advice about things I don't know, but this Ive done personally. If youd like to follow me and check my placements pm me, cause I ll be leaving in 4 days for 4 months. Indian creek? Bye
ps, I edited this, so I wouldnt piss the "mod" off
(This post was edited by kane_schutzman on Feb 23, 2008, 7:15 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
kane_schutzman
Feb 23, 2008, 6:50 AM
Post #24 of 103
(18967 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 14, 2005
Posts: 896
|
Fuck whatever, I sound like an A-hole. All I m saying is yea just a bit a common sense will get you along ways, even in this game.
(This post was edited by kane_schutzman on Feb 23, 2008, 7:01 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
qwert
Feb 23, 2008, 8:51 AM
Post #25 of 103
(18919 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2004
Posts: 2394
|
to the OP:
dude, you really need to read a book, and more important, find someone experienced, or take a course on climbing.
from your questions it sounds like a really bad idea to just buy a trad rack and just start climbing with it, without knowing stuff about it.
and most likely your rack will be much to big for a start. you dont need 30biners + dozens of slings + cams + tricams + hexes + nuts + ... at the beginning.
just going out and starting leading with a giantic shiny rack and no knowledge isnt a good idea.
i dont want to be an ass, but really, it isnt just the lingo you seem to have problems with (or isnt english your first language? then you maybe should find a forum in your language).
this forum is a nice place to get informations about climbing techniques, gear, places and people, but it is no substitute for having some real person teaching you the real stuff outdoors.
while all these "climbing is dangerous, seek qualified instruction" tags on every gear are a bit anoying, they definitely are there for a reason.
qwert
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
