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elholando
Apr 23, 2008, 7:18 PM
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Registered: Oct 4, 2007
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I really wanted to call the subject "El Cracko Racko". Just wanted to see if there were any suggestions for this rack @ Devil's Tower
1 set Stoppers
Double Tricams (.5 - 2)
Double Camalots .5 - 2
Camalots 3,4
#9 Rockcentric (I know, a little non sequitur)
I was thinking about picking up another #3 Camalot and a set of Ultralight TCUs. The #3 was for the Tower, but the TCUs were just a general buy. If there is absolutely no way that I'll need the TCUs on the Tower then I might hold off until I need them.
Lando
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wanlessrm
Apr 23, 2008, 7:42 PM
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Registered: Jul 29, 2002
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I didn't place any stoppers on the route. The ranger told me not to even bring them on the route. add one more 2 and 3 and you'll be set. Remember this is 5.8 move after 5.8 move the whole way up. Very long pitches without a rest. You must be solid and in shape for the grade or your in for a long haul. If your solid than it should only take you a couple of hours. I loved this route!
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wanlessrm
Apr 23, 2008, 7:43 PM
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Registered: Jul 29, 2002
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Sorry but leave the tri cams on the ground for this climb.
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elholando
Apr 24, 2008, 2:02 AM
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Registered: Oct 4, 2007
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Great input! Adding a #3 and another #2 is an expensive proposition, but #2 is my favorite piece anyway. You think 12 cams will get it done? I'm assuming all the belays are bolted, huh? I'm in pretty good climbing shape, and should be even better by the time I go. I know it's really sustained, but I was thinking of taking my brother who's not a climber. I figured if he's following the whole time he can always rest and work his way up.
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therat
Apr 24, 2008, 2:15 AM
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Plenty of stopper placements.
Ditto on the extra #3 Camalots.
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dead_horse_flats
Apr 24, 2008, 2:57 AM
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What you listed will be just right - minus the tricams.
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spikeddem
Aug 17, 2008, 4:58 AM
Post #7 of 11
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Registered: Aug 27, 2007
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Resurrecting:
I have this rack ready to take to the tower in a few days. One thing I am wondering is how many and what kind of draws I should take. I have plenty of sport draws, and I can get any realistic number of 2' or 4' alpine draws.
I will likely be leading all the pitches so we have decided on using a quad to build the anchors. Thus, what kind of slingage should we bring up the route? Should we bother with the 2' and 4' trad draws? Right now I have it written down as
6 QDs
2 2'
2 4'
Sound good? I just thought it seemed like I might be clipping directly to my camalots because of the straightness of the crack. Is that true?
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spikeddem
Aug 18, 2008, 12:55 AM
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Registered: Aug 27, 2007
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Also, would we have to get up at a crazy hour like we would have to for durrance? I realize we don't want to be halfway up during the hottest part of the day, but a non-4:00 AM wake-up would be nice!!!
Thanks :)
Edit: In the sense of, "Would we need to worry about traffic from others?"
(This post was edited by spikeddem on Aug 18, 2008, 12:55 AM)
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reperio1
Jun 23, 2009, 9:14 PM
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Registered: Nov 18, 2005
Posts: 45
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Will be at dt the last week of July. Just curious what you found about crowds and El Cracko Diablo. Was it busy? What time did you start? Any beta would be great.
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pfwein
Jun 23, 2009, 9:35 PM
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Registered: Feb 8, 2009
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It's one of the most popular routes at DT and, therefore, most likely will be crowded.
It is also either on or right next to a main rappel route, which can cause crowding. Rappellers *should* use different sets of midway rap anchors, but based on what I saw, many will use the El Cracko anchors).
You can try to get on Tad or Soler if CD is busy, but Tad and Soler (especially Soler) are also popular. (Despite the differences in ratings, they all felt about the same level of difficulty to me. Tad is wider, Soler not so wide.) If you can bring extra #3 or even a #4 Camalot on CD, you can/will use them; likewise for TAD.
Like every other popular DT route I've been on (many), it's great.
Have fun!
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reperio1
Jun 23, 2009, 10:49 PM
Post #11 of 11
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Registered: Nov 18, 2005
Posts: 45
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Sounds like an early morning start is in order. Muchas gracias!
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