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donald949
Apr 24, 2008, 3:56 PM
Post #151 of 157
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Registered: May 24, 2007
Posts: 11455
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forkliftdaddy wrote: IMO this is the best reason for using hexes: kimsismour wrote: I LOVE MY HEXES AKA personal preference, but ya'd think we're all a bunch of spell-casting, demon-invoking, neuromancers. "I put a spell on you." -- John Fogerty "I put a hex in you." -- Some fool some where, I'm sure
"I put a Hex on you" should be the name of a route someplace. Freaking great. Classic post.
;Don
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flint
Apr 24, 2008, 4:21 PM
Post #152 of 157
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Registered: Jun 21, 2007
Posts: 543
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evanwish wrote: anybody here ever actually have to stack them??
I have stacked hexes twice... only way to protect those off-widths with only 2 big (well BIG) cams on the rack.
j-
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lewismonkey
Jun 19, 2008, 9:08 AM
Post #153 of 157
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Registered: Jun 12, 2008
Posts: 23
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A fun variation is to not use cams on any route originally climbed before 1978 (or thereabouts).
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brownie710
Jun 19, 2008, 2:17 PM
Post #154 of 157
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Registered: Aug 25, 2007
Posts: 531
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caughtinside wrote: . The noise. The noise is really silly to me.
I believe in the Gunks the noise is called "the call of the gumby"
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cracklover
Jun 19, 2008, 5:31 PM
Post #155 of 157
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
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brownie710 wrote: caughtinside wrote: . The noise. The noise is really silly to me. I believe in the Gunks the noise is called "the call of the gumby"
Well then call me a Gumby, cause I've been climbing there for eight years, and for many climbs at the Gunks, hexes are superb protection, allowing you to climb with fewer (heavier) cams.
GO
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dingus
Jun 19, 2008, 5:38 PM
Post #156 of 157
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
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guangzhou wrote: Hexes still have thereplace today. Here in Asia, I often do first ascent on trad protected face climbs on tropical limestone.. I almost always carry one each of the 6 to 11 hex. Work beautifully. The limestone placement tend to be irregaular and Hexes are often more stabble then cams. Climbing on the west coast, I used hexes for years. Yes, I was climbing route harder than 5.10 and into the 5.11 range and still placed hexes. Last summer I did Reeds Direct in Yosemite. A moderate. I had cams on my rack, but ended up placing mostly nuts and hexes on the route. Quick, easy, and versitile. Look at the placement and decide what gear is best. Eman
P2 of Reeds Direct is highly nuttable to be sure.
P1 and P3, not so much!
Cheers
DMT
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coolcat83
Jun 23, 2008, 3:03 PM
Post #157 of 157
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Registered: Jan 27, 2007
Posts: 1007
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As a poor student I use hexes for setting up anchors as NJ is trad and most things top roped and there are many horizontals, when you get a hex cammed in there just right I'd hang my van off of it, sometimes cams just seem to move around on some rock (scary smooth/flared rock at Ralph stover PA for example) and something that bites a little feels more secure.
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