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tshimkus
May 5, 2008, 5:48 AM
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I am visiting family in the area in mid-May and would like to know where to go if I were only to spend a day or two climbing. I am looking for the quintessential Adirondack climb.
Open to trad or sport lines up to 5.8 IV.
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sbaclimber
May 5, 2008, 7:39 AM
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Head to Keene Valley, and take your pick of routes. If you want long slab lines, Thanksgiving, Empress and the Regular Route on Chapel Pond Slab are all classics. Plus, if you are coming in off the Northway, it is one of the closest/quickest places to access. If you want shorter lines, then the Beer Walls and Spider's Web both have a bunch of classics (e.g. Frosted Mug or Labatt Ami @ the Beer Walls). If you have a second day, then you should probably head up to Poko, just be aware that most routes will be closed due to Peregrine nesting: http://www.dec.ny.gov/outdoor/7870.html
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onceahardman
May 5, 2008, 3:14 PM
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Lots of 5.8 in the dacks, not much grade IV.
There is a tremendous, and very comprehensive, new guidebook:
http://adirondackrock.com
To me, "quintessential" in the 'dacks means multi pitch, so avoid the popular beer walls, although they are very convenient.
Keene Valley:
Washbowl cliff: Partition 5.8, Hesitation, also 5.8. Do the "butterflies are free" handcrack start to partition 8+/9, but very well protected. Also, the old "weissner route" is a mega classic at 5.5. Hesitation would be an excellent choice for a "quintessential" dacks route.
Tillman's Arete, 5.7, sparsely bolted, popular with guides, easy access. Dries quickly after a rain.
Mr Roger's neighborhood 5.8, easiest route at the Spider's web.
Empress 800' 5.5 slab, runouts to 120', but pretty secure climbing, no sandbag from me.
Keene:
Quadrophenia 5.8, Hurricane crag EDIT: 20 min. approach, pretty well off the road, 4 distinct and varied pitches, a good choice for "quintessential"
Pete's farewell 5.7 Pitchoff chimey cliff
The El, 5.8, pitchoff chimney cliff.
Pok-o: Best cliff in the dacks, similar in size and scope to cathedral ledge in NH:
Gamesmanship:4-5 pitches, 5.8
Many many more routes here, most harder, I'll stay within your desired 5.8.
Good Luck!, please do a trip report! Oh, yeah, mid May? bring good quality insect repellent, and maybe a headnet for belays! The blackflies are famous.
(This post was edited by onceahardman on May 5, 2008, 3:23 PM)
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sbaclimber
May 5, 2008, 3:37 PM
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onceahardman wrote: Washbowl cliff: Partition 5.8, Hesitation, also 5.8. Do the "butterflies are free" handcrack start to partition 8+/9, but very well protected. Also, the old "weissner route" is a mega classic at 5.5. Hesitation would be an excellent choice for a "quintessential" dacks route. 
PS, as well as Gamesmanship on Poko...
onceahardman wrote: Oh, yeah, mid May? bring good quality insect repellent, and maybe a headnet for belays! The blackflies are famous.
(This post was edited by sbaclimber on May 5, 2008, 3:53 PM)
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Gmburns2000
May 5, 2008, 3:43 PM
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Have to second Gamesmanship. First two pitches are fantastic!
Also check out the area around Paralysis at Poke-O while you're there. Some good moderate routes are right there, and Paralysis in particular has one of the most exciting traverses I've ever done (the third pitch that goes under the roof, not the second pitch, but P1 is also pretty fun).
Beer Walls was fun, but it's popular. I thoroughly enjoyed Barkeater Cliffs, too. Some great single pitch moderate stuff if you want to get your crack on (Mr. Clean is a fantastic route, and Fun City was interesting enough for me to want to do it agan someday). Plus, when I went to Barkeater, there was no one there.
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onceahardman
May 5, 2008, 6:19 PM
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In reply to: Washbowl is unfortunately one of the areas that are closed in May PS, as well as Gamesmanship on Poko...
Yeah, sometimes the closures are inconvenient, but some years they only close the lower washbowls, and the big Washbowl cliff stays open.
It's all worth it when you hear the falcons screaming, and see them flying around.
To the OP: this might be more reason to look up Hurricane Crag, on Rte 9N between Keene and Elizabethtown. Highly recommend "Quadrophenia".
It is not a popular cliff with "outsiders", you'll probably have privacy, not a loooong approach, but certainly not roadside.
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jmeizis
May 5, 2008, 6:58 PM
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Definitely try and hit Poko if you can. There are lots of great lines Try The Sting as an alternate start to Gamesmanship (hard 5.8). Pillar is another good one. Paralysis is fun, make sure to head left of the block on the last pitch, don't get sucked into the ramp (The overhang goes). Snake Slide is a nice single pitch route.
Beer walls are nice single pitch routes. Hit Rockaholics, Pegasus and the other ones suggested are good as well.
Barkeater cliffs are awesome, all single pitch but some great crack climbs and face climbs and usually not crowded.
Keene Valley in general the place to be if you want to get a lot done without a lot of driving around.
When I think quintessential I think of Poko or Keene Valley.
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onceahardman
May 5, 2008, 8:02 PM
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Dude, I just checked the peregrine closures. Bummer about most of pok-o, and Washbowl.
You could still do chapel pond slab, tillman's, and the chapel pond gully routes (these are kind of obscure, but nearby).
Hurricane crag is open, and Pitchoff chimney cliff is really good, but close to the road. Barkeater might be a good bet if you are looking for solitude, and the approach is pretty flat.
Of course, you could always do the "high commitment" thing, and do the Diagonal on Wallface. That would really be quintessential...about 4.5 miles from the road.
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cfnubbler
May 5, 2008, 8:23 PM
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The upper tiers at Poko are open, and home to some absolutely fantastic routes....
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jimlawyer
May 5, 2008, 10:37 PM
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All good suggestions...can't go wrong with those.
Another idea -- go here:
http://www.adirondackrock.com/goodies/IndexByGrade.pdf
Look at the 5.8 grade, and pick out the routes with lots of stars.
Oh yeah...buy the book 
Watch the DEC web site...Poke-O will open as soon as the peregrines commit to a nest. Any day now...
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Adk
May 5, 2008, 11:48 PM
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Thanks Jim.
When will you be in New Paltz for the book signing?
Rock and Snow if I remember correctly??
Dave
(This post was edited by Adk on May 5, 2008, 11:49 PM)
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