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charley
Oct 28, 2002, 2:49 PM
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Any suggestions on how to stop over gripping when on lead.
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chakan
Oct 28, 2002, 2:51 PM
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Try concentrating on your breathing and I know this sounds stoopid but try relax... also concentrating on your breathing slowly in and out will let you focus more on one thing than lotsa things.
Hope that helps
peace
Gregg
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texasclimber
Oct 28, 2002, 3:03 PM
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Also, try visualization BEFORE you get on the route. This will help you be more comfortable when climbing; as a result, you won't over-grip (as much).
As qith anything mental, this takes practice, but it does help. If you want more info on visualization...
1) search the internet
2) read Flach Training by Eric Horst
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jt512
Oct 28, 2002, 4:51 PM
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Many good suggestions above. Here are two more:
When you catch yourself overgripping, tell yourself to relax. Actually say the word, "relax."
Practice the route on TR and pay attention to how lightly you grip the holds. That's all the grip you need. Remember that feeling when you lead the route and try not to grip the holds any harder than you did on TR.
-Jay
[ This Message was edited by: jt512 on 2002-10-28 18:40 ]
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geezergecko
Oct 28, 2002, 5:49 PM
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I like the smiling suggestion. I also try to meditate for half a minute before starting the climb. Settles the mind.
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milesdesbrie
Oct 28, 2002, 6:12 PM
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When I get gripped on a climb, I try to take a quick mental timeout and tell myself that my gear is good, I'm not going to fall anyway, and even if I do, it's no big deal. By convincing myself that I'm objectively safe, even if just for a moment, I'm usually able to relax a bit. Of course sometimes I'm effectively lying to myself but it still helps.
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zoni_girl
Oct 28, 2002, 6:31 PM
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I hum or sing softly to myself. Sounds silly, and if people are climbing around me they probably think I am nuts, but it totally takes my mind to a better place. I am still concentrating on climbing of course, but I find myself much more relaxed and able to enjoy the climb instead of tight gripping my way up.
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kolby
Oct 28, 2002, 9:45 PM
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Forget relaxing, if we wanted to do this we would do yoga and not climb so much. The best way to cruise through the crux is to sing one of the songs off of the Masters of Stone V video. That seems to allways work for me because I visualize myself climbing like Dean Potter......otherwise I'll just start aiding.
My favorite one is "Tommarrow... Tomarrow will be free... Like a child.. Naked in the sun...." You know the one!
-Kolby Jardine
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boulderingmadman
Oct 28, 2002, 10:05 PM
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also try this--
get on a few easier routes to practice this technique. once you have the technique down, move to your projects...
concentrate on using open-handed grips as much as possible. if you are consciously thinking about your grip and contact, you'll be easier able to control it. i got gripped alot when i first started leading, and actually eyeing the way i was grasping the holds helped me to be able to loosen my grasp and only squeeze as hard as necessary...practice hanging from the skeletal frame with extended fingers (as much as possible) and youll get over your over-gripping
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tigerbythetail
Oct 29, 2002, 2:28 AM
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Relax? That's something you'll need to work on...try to grab the holds with as little pressure as needed and really try to use your feet/legs.
My recommendation is a sixer of Olde English tall-boys for a day out craggin - that will get you nice and relaxed.
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the_elk
Oct 29, 2002, 3:25 AM
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I think that everyone has their own style and way of remaining clam... That's the beauty of this sport... we all approach stuff in different ways.
At times I even find myself freaking out a bit on easy routes (probably because I don't think I need to focus as much, because it's just an easy climb, right?) When this happens, I simply breathe, and usually talk myself through every move. It sounds a little corny, but I actually talk as I climb, sorta like a commentry. Just gets my mind back on track.
Cheers,
Elk
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charley
Oct 29, 2002, 8:22 PM
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thanks
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duskerhu
Nov 8, 2002, 10:41 AM
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Also, once you decide you need to place a piece, FORGET about everything else!
Look at the rock directly in front of you (or where abouts you're putting that piece) and concentrate on it... Forget how far from the ground you are, how far above that last piece, forget about the elvis legs, breathe deep, exhale/blow (the dust off) on the rock, feel it with your free hand, and select your piece.
Of course, you'll have to make a conscious effort to ease up on your grip at first, but that will become habit after a while. Before you know it, the piece will be in, you'll be clipped, and on your way.
Live Free!
Play Hard!
Climb On!
duskerhu
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jerrygarcia
Nov 8, 2002, 1:35 PM
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Yoga + practice breathing
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vertical_reality
Nov 8, 2002, 2:03 PM
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I find that if I don't use my thumb to curl around a hold, it helps alot.
Two things that I have been told that changed the way I hold the rock are 1) climb with your feet, not with your hands and 2) don't grip the holds, hang on them.
And of course like everyone else has said, just relax, and remember to breathe.
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climber_andy
Nov 8, 2002, 4:27 PM
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I'm going to have to try the smile technique. Although that may be related to what I do on some leads when there are other climbers I know nearby... banter. We'd come up with funny quotes from movies, jokes, chit chat, or anything. Most of the time there isn't anyone else within hearing distance when I get on something that sketches me though, so I find that staying tuned in to my immediate surroundings helps. I only focus on things within say, 4 feet of me. Once I get zoned in, I can usually start to relax on the holds. Usually. Definitely going to have to try the smile thing though!
And if I can come up with a good tune before hand, that helps a ton too! There have been plenty of good suggestions here.
[ This Message was edited by: climber_andy on 2002-11-08 08:28 ]
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rrrADAM
Nov 8, 2002, 10:34 PM
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Reelllaaaaxxxxx.... Breathe.... And use your feet.
Emphisize(sp?) Technique.
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