|
joshua.toenyes
Jan 11, 2009, 3:53 AM
Post #1 of 6
(3099 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 23, 2007
Posts: 5
|
The Right Lieback/Undercling problem on Right Mudball is rated as 5.10c, is that rating for only using the arete to ascend to the first undercling hold? Or is the middle handhold for the 5.10a climb just to the left of Right Lieback fair-game?
What is the consensus???
-Josh
|
|
|
|
|
HIGHER_CLIMBER
Jan 22, 2009, 12:45 AM
Post #2 of 6
(3067 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 30, 2008
Posts: 113
|
you're supposed to use the arete only. the hold in the middle for the 'dyno' is definitely off, you can use the undercling towards the top if you have to. feels weird searching for a hold without the undercling.
Edited to add: lets go climbing man. i get down to santee once every week or so.
(This post was edited by HIGHER_CLIMBER on Jan 22, 2009, 3:24 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
joshua.toenyes
Jan 23, 2009, 4:58 AM
Post #3 of 6
(3040 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 23, 2007
Posts: 5
|
Yeah, I nailed it without the middle hold. Considerably easier using the dyno hold! I haven't hit the .11 variation yet, maybe this weekend. Me and my climbing buddies are out at Santee or Woodson at least three or four times a week, I'll PM you my info if you want to meet up sometime.
-Josh
|
|
|
|
|
illusiondweller
Apr 20, 2009, 5:19 AM
Post #4 of 6
(2946 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 22, 2005
Posts: 124
|
Back in the day, eliminating the left hand undercling at the top of the lieback (yes, feels awkward, but that's the crux) and reaching right to the fat undercling, ups the ante to 5.10d / 5.11. Using that left hand undercling and reaching over the top to a finishing sloper is another mind game to say the least!
(This post was edited by illusiondweller on Aug 31, 2009, 5:01 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
trenchdigger
Aug 31, 2009, 2:58 PM
Post #5 of 6
(2770 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 9, 2003
Posts: 1447
|
illusiondweller wrote: Using that left hand undercling and reaching over the top to a finishing sloper is another mind game to say the least!
A mind game, most definitley! Surprisingly, not really any harder.
|
|
|
|
|
illusiondweller
Aug 31, 2009, 5:12 PM
Post #6 of 6
(2751 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 22, 2005
Posts: 124
|
Adam, check your tradmonkey email. Hey, fyi, I changed the overhang on Buttplug back to 5.10d where it should have been. U can update your rating to bring the consensus back up if u want.
If u haven't already, check out new videos under username digitsdelight on YouTube!
Gary
(This post was edited by illusiondweller on Aug 31, 2009, 5:27 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
|
