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hp
Feb 13, 2009, 12:04 AM
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Registered: Oct 24, 2006
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Is there any other sport climbing cliffs at Tioman than the one at Juara beach? It has only 20 routes and doesnŽt look worth a lot of trouble.
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hp
Mar 10, 2009, 2:05 PM
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Registered: Oct 24, 2006
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 what about boulders? trad gear I wonŽt bring
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stamplis
Mar 10, 2009, 2:32 PM
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Registered: Sep 16, 2005
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I was there in October was told the ruler of Tioman was paying to have some more routes developed on the island - I forget which the village, maybe Lanting? You can see the cliff on the ferry ride to Genting. The hope is that it will become "The Next Thailand". That being said, the cliff in question is slabby and not very spectacular looking, especially for sport climbing. Not sure if any bolts have gone in yet but you could check it out. Looks sunny.
We boated around most of the island and there just wasn't much that jumped out and yelled "Climb Me!" except for the Dragon Horns (duh!) and a couple cliffs near it. The climbs at Juara are mostly easy and aren't very exciting - grid-bolted and pretty dirty in spots. Probably only worthwhile if you've gotten tired of the spectacular snorkeling.
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hp
Mar 11, 2009, 3:43 PM
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Registered: Oct 24, 2006
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ok thanks. Dragon horns arenŽt for me... yeat  You talked about boating around... do you happen to know if thereŽs any places dws?
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stamplis
Mar 11, 2009, 4:28 PM
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Registered: Sep 16, 2005
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We boated around most of the western and southern parts of the island (from Tekek to Mukut to Juara) and didn't see anything for DWS. Most of the good looking cliffs were near the Mukut area - but nothing much close to the water. Plus, the granite tends to gently slope out of the water so you don't get anything like overhanging limestone formations. There might be some opportunity for some beach bouldering scattered around the island but I can't remember anything in particular. When are you going there? Have fun! (I'm hoping to save up and go again in a couple years!)
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hp
Mar 11, 2009, 7:34 PM
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Registered: Oct 24, 2006
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IŽll arrive 27th of March. I quess IŽll bring my shoes though... just in case. Thanks for the information!
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bandycoot
Mar 11, 2009, 8:01 PM
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
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It's definitely not sport climbing, but I made an attempt on the Dragon's Horns last year. I made it up to below the "Great Roof" pitch on Waking Dreams, but the bolts were in pretty poor shape. If anyone goes up there for this thing, expect to replace some bolts. Some alternate paths have been bolted on at least the lower half of the route, but the bolts are rusted/corroded already. I'd recommend anyone climbing on that feature figure out what bolts and glue are used in Thailand and use that in the future up there for longevity. It's a beautiful looking line, wish the protection had been in better shape...
Josh
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arinpetit
Mar 20, 2009, 9:23 AM
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Registered: Jul 9, 2002
Posts: 50
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Hi evreryone, u can check more about the dragon's horn on my blog ://arinpetit.blogspot.com.
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eddieaks
Mar 17, 2010, 4:20 PM
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Registered: Jun 4, 2007
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Nipah Village southwest of Tioman island has bolted 20 over routes on slab wall, bouldering there is possible as well.
view more details at www.vertical-adventure.com
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