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marc801
Dec 1, 2009, 6:33 AM
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rainman0915 wrote: i wish people would stop asking questions then providing pics like that. its not that hard to set something up on coat hangers or something and take a pic of it, instead of posting something that a cia code cracker would have trouble deciphering.
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dugl33
Dec 1, 2009, 8:22 AM
Post #52 of 90
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jonathan.gaillard wrote: Can anybody spot the deficiency in the wrong version? :D
Can anyone spot the merits of the "right" versions?
This looks like the wiring diagram of my toyota. Confusion does not generally equate to safety. This is needlessly complex with no upside benefit.
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patto
Dec 1, 2009, 12:35 PM
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jonathan.gaillard wrote: Can anybody spot the deficiency in the wrong version? :D
This was one other thing that bugged me about your post. The 'wrong' version was topologically identical to the right version. As far as I can tell there IS no difference.
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epoch
Moderator
Dec 1, 2009, 12:43 PM
Post #54 of 90
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Moved from Tecnique and Training to General.
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saxfiend
Dec 1, 2009, 2:37 PM
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rainman0915 wrote: i wish people would stop asking questions then providing pics like that. its not that hard to set something up on coat hangers or something and take a pic of it, instead of posting something that a cia code cracker would have trouble deciphering.
JL
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coolcatpet4e
Dec 1, 2009, 3:25 PM
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jonathan.gaillard wrote: coolcat83: Ah ok I wasn't aware it got those comments as well, thanks I didn't know. Well I've said the advantages, but I will repeat them in case it wasn't clear. If you tie the non clove hitches before you leave ground, this anchor is faster to setup than the equalette, and for the same amount of cord acheives much better lack of extension, and retains all dynamic equalization. It is also redundant with regards to cord and crab failure, without any extra gear than the equalette. Those are significant advantages I believe, of course we all have our own opinions :)
First off, you would never tie your cord together for your anchor before you leave the ground as you have no clue what the gear will look like so that would be useless. Also I am very certain that I can set up a equalette anchor within one minute of setting my gear, I find that I can set up an equalette almost as fast as a standard cordalette set up, if not faster depending on the situation. Here's whats up, your set-up is way to complicated and would take to long, and while it may work, it is just a silly thing to even try to set up.
-Pete
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coolcatpet4e
Dec 1, 2009, 3:36 PM
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And with your whole obsession over SERENE and redundancy, you have to realize that everything is situational and your not going to make an anchor redundant if it is already strong... for example let's say you use the climbing rope to wrap a tree with a diameter of 2-3ft and your belaying at the tree from the top, is this ok, hell yea! is it redundent? No, but it is strong. SERENE is just a general guideline and you should have the knowledge necessary to know how to build a quick and effective anchor , and your set-up is neither. Rather than relying on acronyms you should learn what works in each situation, and how to be prepared for all of those situations.
-Pete
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stlamarc
Dec 1, 2009, 6:49 PM
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Got to agree with you on this one. By the time you set all this sh.. up your legs will be numb and your partner will have left the crag two hours ago.
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foodgeek
Dec 1, 2009, 7:08 PM
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I've improved on this anchor design by adding an american death triangle in the middle of it, a completely random extra loop of cord, two army men to protect the bolts, and a man on fire at the master point.
I think nearly everyone will be using this anchor by this time next year.
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lostlazy
Dec 1, 2009, 7:19 PM
Post #60 of 90
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I can't believe I missed this thread, I would've just pointed everyone to my signature.
Save a lot of time. 
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V
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saxfiend
Dec 1, 2009, 7:48 PM
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lostlazy wrote: I can't believe I missed this thread, I would've just pointed everyone to my signature.
JL
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lostlazy
Dec 1, 2009, 7:53 PM
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cracklover
Dec 1, 2009, 8:37 PM
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lostlazy wrote: I can't believe I missed this thread, I would've just pointed everyone to my signature. Save a lot of time. | | | | | V jonathan.gaillard wrote: I use a strap of webbing around me like a swami belt to make my harness redundant...
Oh, it's that guy! I had no idea!
Okay, that explains everything. Never mind then, this isn't worth our time.
Jonathan - go do your homework and then come back when you have something better to show for it.
GO
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cracklover
Dec 1, 2009, 8:45 PM
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kriso9tails wrote: foodgeek wrote: [image]http://dave.theuw.net/perfectanchor.jpg[/image] Women are underrepresented in that anchor, so I'd have to say that there's an equalization issue. You may think that mixing genders may cause unnecessary tension and friction, but you don't want to end up with a hippie, liberal protest at your anchor while your hands are tied.
No, mixing genders is a bad idea. When you put different genders in close proximity like that, you can get strong electricity! Just like putting different metals together, the galvanic corrosion that results will kill you for sure.
GO
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foodgeek
Dec 1, 2009, 8:52 PM
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cracklover wrote: kriso9tails wrote: Women are underrepresented in that anchor, so I'd have to say that there's an equalization issue. You may think that mixing genders may cause unnecessary tension and friction, but you don't want to end up with a hippie, liberal protest at your anchor while your hands are tied. No, mixing genders is a bad idea. When you put different genders in close proximity like that, you can get strong electricity! Just like putting different metals together, the galvanic corrosion that results will kill you for sure. GO
It's also surprisingly difficult to find plastic army women.
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sp00ki
Dec 1, 2009, 11:44 PM
Post #67 of 90
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foodgeek wrote: I've improved on this anchor design by adding an american death triangle in the middle of it, a completely random extra loop of cord, two army men to protect the bolts, and a man on fire at the master point. [image]http://dave.theuw.net/perfectanchor.jpg[/image] I think nearly everyone will be using this anchor by this time next year.
You forgot the triforce.
(This post was edited by sp00ki on Dec 1, 2009, 11:45 PM)
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lostlazy
Dec 2, 2009, 3:26 AM
Post #68 of 90
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sp00ki wrote: foodgeek wrote: I've improved on this anchor design by adding an american death triangle in the middle of it, a completely random extra loop of cord, two army men to protect the bolts, and a man on fire at the master point. I think nearly everyone will be using this anchor by this time next year. You forgot the triforce.
Despite our disagreement earlier, your Triforce addition is gnarly...
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tradrenn
Dec 2, 2009, 5:06 AM
Post #69 of 90
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jonathan.gaillard wrote: I'm just wondering why john longs equalette didn't receive such "its useless" remarks when his book was published. This is faster and better performing. Not a lot faster though...
I have been using Equalette for quite some time now and I can beet you and your anchor every time.
Congrats for trying.
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cracklover
Dec 2, 2009, 4:43 PM
Post #70 of 90
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tradrenn wrote: jonathan.gaillard wrote: I'm just wondering why john longs equalette didn't receive such "its useless" remarks when his book was published. This is faster and better performing. Not a lot faster though... I have been using Equalette for quite some time now and I can beet you and your anchor every time. Congrats for trying.
Hmm... so the configuration you're using looks something like this?
Not sure how that's better. Beets have a lot of iron, right? So you're saying aluminum is weaker than iron?
Please explain.
GO
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kellymoe
Dec 2, 2009, 5:21 PM
Post #71 of 90
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socalclimber wrote: T0 - CF10 Can you imagine trying to build this cluster fuck on a wall? Why isn't this in the beginners forum where it belongs?
Because if a beginner tried to make this cf he would DIE!!!
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moose_droppings
Dec 2, 2009, 5:32 PM
Post #72 of 90
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foodgeek wrote: I've improved on this anchor design by adding an american death triangle in the middle of it, a completely random extra loop of cord, two army men to protect the bolts, and a man on fire at the master point. I think nearly everyone will be using this anchor by this time next year.
No tires, arrows or floating asteroids = FAIL
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adatesman
Dec 2, 2009, 5:35 PM
Post #73 of 90
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socalclimber
Dec 2, 2009, 7:39 PM
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kellymoe wrote: socalclimber wrote: T0 - CF10 Can you imagine trying to build this cluster fuck on a wall? Why isn't this in the beginners forum where it belongs? Because if a beginner tried to make this cf he would DIE!!!
After a 10 hour day on the wall, hauling etc, when fatigue has set in an expert wall climber would probably fuck it up.
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