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climbingtrash
Feb 23, 2012, 2:45 PM
Post #89451 of 105309
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snipe teh bombz?
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climbingtrash
Feb 23, 2012, 2:45 PM
Post #89452 of 105309
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big m0eny no whammys?
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climbingtrash
Feb 23, 2012, 2:45 PM
Post #89453 of 105309
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wo0?!?
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climbingtrash
Feb 23, 2012, 2:47 PM
Post #89454 of 105309
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suk it hotdog bomb!
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meatbomz
Feb 23, 2012, 2:58 PM
Post #89455 of 105309
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carabiner96 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: chossmonkey wrote: carabiner96 wrote: Here we go...it actually looks worse now that the bruising has surfaced.  What's the big deal? What's that on your arm, half out of view? Looks like a tattoo. The surgeon's signature, that says 'Cut this one'
That would have sucked to have woken up and still had the protofingers on stumpie but all the fingers on the other hand gone. Doh!
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meatbomz
Feb 23, 2012, 2:59 PM
Post #89456 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: carabiner96 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: chossmonkey wrote: carabiner96 wrote: Here we go...it actually looks worse now that the bruising has surfaced. What's the big deal? What's that on your arm, half out of view? Looks like a tattoo. The surgeon's signature, that says 'Cut this one' It would be a pretty big mistake if they took your fingers from your right side instead.
Ok - I give up. I'll be working if anyone is looking for me.
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Allfred
Feb 23, 2012, 3:08 PM
Post #89457 of 105309
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meatbomz wrote: granite_grrl wrote: carabiner96 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: chossmonkey wrote: carabiner96 wrote: Here we go...it actually looks worse now that the bruising has surfaced. [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=6177;[/image] What's the big deal? What's that on your arm, half out of view? Looks like a tattoo. The surgeon's signature, that says 'Cut this one' It would be a pretty big mistake if they took your fingers from your right side instead. Ok - I give up. I'll be working if anyone is looking for me.
Swinging the hammer?
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lena_chita
Moderator
Feb 23, 2012, 3:15 PM
Post #89459 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: carabiner96 wrote: Here we go...it actually looks worse now that the bruising has surfaced. [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=6177;[/image] that's not nearly as bad as you'd built it up to be
+1.
I was expecting gore. That looks like a neat set of stitched.
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meatbomz
Feb 23, 2012, 3:16 PM
Post #89460 of 105309
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climbingtrash wrote: carabiner96 wrote: Here we go...it actually looks worse now that the bruising has surfaced. [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=6177;[/image] Yip-yip Martian?  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7fQaj31Wtko
ha!
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meatbomz
Feb 23, 2012, 3:17 PM
Post #89461 of 105309
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Allfred wrote: meatbomz wrote: granite_grrl wrote: carabiner96 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: chossmonkey wrote: carabiner96 wrote: Here we go...it actually looks worse now that the bruising has surfaced. [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=6177;[/image] What's the big deal? What's that on your arm, half out of view? Looks like a tattoo. The surgeon's signature, that says 'Cut this one' It would be a pretty big mistake if they took your fingers from your right side instead. Ok - I give up. I'll be working if anyone is looking for me. Swinging the hammer?
Working the Core.getCore().
So the creek is now seeming likelier in early April as that's when the hometown boys will be there.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Feb 23, 2012, 3:30 PM
Post #89462 of 105309
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And in other news, OMG, hangboard sucks! Or rather, I suck.
6 sets of 6 holds, and weights, ha! I did 6 sets on 2 holds, with no added weights, and I was done. Actually slipped off the holds on the last rep.
If dribble can do 6 sets, I am really humbled.
The holds were really similar, both about 1-1.5 pad, one was more flat on top, and the other one was meant to be a sloping 3-finger pocket, I guess, but I used it for 4 fingers, because dammit, they fit.
This is pathetic.
I don't think I can do any of the crimps, and I don't see any point in going to bigger holds, so I don't know if i should try to build up to 3-4-5 sets on just these holds for now, or what?
Oh, and my skin is not meant to withstand it. And my elbows felt funny. And I don't know how to breath while doing 6 sec-4 sec cycles.
Did that cover all the whining?
camhead, a question: how high is your hangboard, relative to your height, e.i. do you have to tiptoe-stretch to reach the holds, or do you reach without pulling your shoulders up, and then lift your legs to hang?
I found that the first hold I tried was too high -- I didn't think so when I was just trying it for the height at which to hang the board, because I can reach it if I stand on tiptoes and kind-of pull my arms up and out of the shoulder sockets, But then there is that extra move of pulling up into a good shoulder form (pulling the shoulders down), and that just about killed me. The other hold I used was more like "reach it without extending and then kick up your feet to hang", and that felt much better on my shoulders. So, do you think I need a step-stool for the holds that are barely reachable? :)
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jakedatc
Feb 23, 2012, 3:36 PM
Post #89463 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: carabiner96 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: chossmonkey wrote: carabiner96 wrote: Here we go...it actually looks worse now that the bruising has surfaced. [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=6177;[/image] What's the big deal? What's that on your arm, half out of view? Looks like a tattoo. The surgeon's signature, that says 'Cut this one' It would be a pretty big mistake if they took your fingers from your right side instead.
Yep, which is why they will do it every surgery, usually while the patient is awake to confirm.
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granite_grrl
Feb 23, 2012, 3:36 PM
Post #89464 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: snoopy138 wrote: carabiner96 wrote: Here we go...it actually looks worse now that the bruising has surfaced. [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=6177;[/image] that's not nearly as bad as you'd built it up to be +1. I was expecting gore. That looks like a neat set of stitched.
I think you're also going to have a far nicer looking, neater scar too btw.
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granite_grrl
Feb 23, 2012, 3:50 PM
Post #89465 of 105309
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jakedatc wrote: granite_grrl wrote: carabiner96 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: chossmonkey wrote: carabiner96 wrote: Here we go...it actually looks worse now that the bruising has surfaced. [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=6177;[/image] What's the big deal? What's that on your arm, half out of view? Looks like a tattoo. The surgeon's signature, that says 'Cut this one' It would be a pretty big mistake if they took your fingers from your right side instead. Yep, which is why they will do it every surgery, usually while the patient is awake to confirm.
Yes, I've been through a few surgeries myself.....but there's a bigger difference between her two sides than in most people.
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jakedatc
Feb 23, 2012, 3:58 PM
Post #89466 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: jakedatc wrote: granite_grrl wrote: carabiner96 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: chossmonkey wrote: carabiner96 wrote: Here we go...it actually looks worse now that the bruising has surfaced. [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=6177;[/image] What's the big deal? What's that on your arm, half out of view? Looks like a tattoo. The surgeon's signature, that says 'Cut this one' It would be a pretty big mistake if they took your fingers from your right side instead. Yep, which is why they will do it every surgery, usually while the patient is awake to confirm. Yes, I've been through a few surgeries myself.....but there's a bigger difference between her two sides than in most people.
Yea but medical liability is huge and stupider things have happened
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kachoong
Feb 23, 2012, 4:05 PM
Post #89468 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
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Have ewe fazed out into obscurity yet in the climbing world? Or is Darkhorse GU'ing all the worlds nastiest routes?
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kachoong
Feb 23, 2012, 4:06 PM
Post #89469 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: That was a lot of figure 4s!
Have ewe been approached by any other climbers yet for sponsorship?
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kachoong
Feb 23, 2012, 4:07 PM
Post #89470 of 105309
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carabiner96 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: chossmonkey wrote: carabiner96 wrote: Here we go...it actually looks worse now that the bruising has surfaced. What's the big deal? What's that on your arm, half out of view? Looks like a tattoo. The surgeon's signature, that says 'Cut this one'
Oh come on... are surgeons really that clueless these days?
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jakedatc
Feb 23, 2012, 4:12 PM
Post #89471 of 105309
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kachoong wrote: carabiner96 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: chossmonkey wrote: carabiner96 wrote: Here we go...it actually looks worse now that the bruising has surfaced. [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=6177;[/image] What's the big deal? What's that on your arm, half out of view? Looks like a tattoo. The surgeon's signature, that says 'Cut this one' Oh come on... are surgeons really that clueless these days?
"According to a 2006 study looking at the frequency of surgical errors in the United States, each year there could be as many as 2,700 mistakes where a surgery is performed on the wrong body part or the wrong patient. That's about seven per day. "
http://www.cnn.com/...e.surgery/index.html
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camhead
Feb 23, 2012, 4:23 PM
Post #89472 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: And in other news, OMG, hangboard sucks! Or rather, I suck. 6 sets of 6 holds, and weights, ha! I did 6 sets on 2 holds, with no added weights, and I was done. Actually slipped off the holds on the last rep. If dribble can do 6 sets, I am really humbled. The holds were really similar, both about 1-1.5 pad, one was more flat on top, and the other one was meant to be a sloping 3-finger pocket, I guess, but I used it for 4 fingers, because dammit, they fit. This is pathetic. I don't think I can do any of the crimps, and I don't see any point in going to bigger holds, so I don't know if i should try to build up to 3-4-5 sets on just these holds for now, or what? Oh, and my skin is not meant to withstand it. And my elbows felt funny. And I don't know how to breath while doing 6 sec-4 sec cycles. Did that cover all the whining? camhead, a question: how high is your hangboard, relative to your height, e.i. do you have to tiptoe-stretch to reach the holds, or do you reach without pulling your shoulders up, and then lift your legs to hang? I found that the first hold I tried was too high -- I didn't think so when I was just trying it for the height at which to hang the board, because I can reach it if I stand on tiptoes and kind-of pull my arms up and out of the shoulder sockets, But then there is that extra move of pulling up into a good shoulder form (pulling the shoulders down), and that just about killed me. The other hold I used was more like "reach it without extending and then kick up your feet to hang", and that felt much better on my shoulders. So, do you think I need a step-stool for the holds that are barely reachable? :)
Hey Lena, even though you say you suck, you are right where you should be right now.
The good news is that with hangboarding you improve QUICKLY. Rest for two days, and do one more session just the same as the one that trashed you, and then for the next one (your 3rd workout?) add 5 lbs; and you should reach failure at the same time you did with no weight the previous week.
The bad news is that, if you're doing it right, your forearms should be trashed right now, and it pretty much limits all other climbing you will be doing. I need at least 72 hrs of recovery after a hangboard sesh, and the only other climbing I can do in the interim is REALLY easy ARCing (which can still be productive, though, just to keep your enduro up).
Me and dribble usually keep the hangboard a bit lower, like, just above head height; you shouldn't have to jump for it, since this will put unnecessary strain on your arms at the beginning of each rep. Rather than a stool, I would use pillows and a stacked up boulder pad to gain height, though. The other plus of having a lower hangboard is that you can focus on static form of keeping your feet off the ground (lifting your knees or thighs), and this actually engages the core almost enough to count as a core workout. At the end of a good sesh, my core.getcore() is so trashed that I usually can't do leglifts.
For breathing, I've found that the reps are short enough that if you just take a deep breath during your rests, that's good. For skin, use tape, possibly with some spray adhesive to keep it on, but the best thing I found for skin is to move to small holds as quickly as you can. Once you're not stressing that fold of skin under the first knuckle, the pain and gobies become less prevalent.
For the elbows, that may be your biggest challenge (and campusing is even tougher on them). Definitely keep the same angle of elbows throughout your workout; Manderson made the good point that as your elbow angle changes, you are subtlely changing the strain on your forearms, and thus not working them to true failure. For my elbow pain, I also begin each workout with two Ibuprofen and one Tylenol.
Finally, this is a super key time to soak your arms in ice water at the end of your workout; 10 minutes apiece. Just sit back, soak 'em, and make your kids get you dessert!
(This post was edited by camhead on Feb 23, 2012, 4:32 PM)
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drivel
Feb 23, 2012, 4:28 PM
Post #89473 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 22, 2010
Posts: 2459
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lena_chita wrote: And in other news, OMG, hangboard sucks! Or rather, I suck. 6 sets of 6 holds, and weights, ha! I did 6 sets on 2 holds, with no added weights, and I was done. Actually slipped off the holds on the last rep. If dribble can do 6 sets, I am really humbled. The holds were really similar, both about 1-1.5 pad, one was more flat on top, and the other one was meant to be a sloping 3-finger pocket, I guess, but I used it for 4 fingers, because dammit, they fit. This is pathetic. I don't think I can do any of the crimps, and I don't see any point in going to bigger holds, so I don't know if i should try to build up to 3-4-5 sets on just these holds for now, or what? Oh, and my skin is not meant to withstand it. And my elbows felt funny. And I don't know how to breath while doing 6 sec-4 sec cycles. Did that cover all the whining? camhead, a question: how high is your hangboard, relative to your height, e.i. do you have to tiptoe-stretch to reach the holds, or do you reach without pulling your shoulders up, and then lift your legs to hang? I found that the first hold I tried was too high -- I didn't think so when I was just trying it for the height at which to hang the board, because I can reach it if I stand on tiptoes and kind-of pull my arms up and out of the shoulder sockets, But then there is that extra move of pulling up into a good shoulder form (pulling the shoulders down), and that just about killed me. The other hold I used was more like "reach it without extending and then kick up your feet to hang", and that felt much better on my shoulders. So, do you think I need a step-stool for the holds that are barely reachable? :)
i've done 6 unweighted sets, but i move to better holds towards the end.... big friendly slopers and two pad pinches or a moderate slimper big enough to close a crimp on. but K has a lot of holds on a lot of different boards to choose from.
most sets i've done with the 5lbs is 3 or 4. 5lbs is a LOT. if i had 2.5 i would maybe start with that.
and i usually stack crash pads so that i can reach the hold with bent elbows. then i just lock off and pick up my feet. doing a half pullup into every move would be much harder. so i would say yes for the step stool.
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drivel
Feb 23, 2012, 4:40 PM
Post #89474 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 22, 2010
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also, thinking of getting a red eft tattoed on my left elbow in red ink.
- salamanders are traditionally/mythologically said to have an affinity with fire
- i have an affinity with fire
_______- I am always cold, so I like fire
_______- I like burning things; I like fire.
_______- my personality is said to be "fiery."
- red efts show up in WV near the new, but only right after it rains. so it's sort of a wv thing asswell. like a rainbow, but better.
- she turned me into a newt! (i got betta)
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drivel
Feb 23, 2012, 4:41 PM
Post #89475 of 105309
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drivel wrote: also, thinking of getting a red eft tattoed on my l eft elbow in red ink. - salamanders are traditionally/mythologically said to have an affinity with fire - i have an affinity with fire _______- I am always cold, so I like fire _______- I like burning things; I like fire. _______- my personality is said to be "fiery." - red efts show up in WV near the new, but only right after it rains. so it's sort of a wv thing asswell. like a rainbow, but better. - she turned me into a newt! (i got betta)
or possibly on one of my olbliques.
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