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snoopy138
Feb 25, 2012, 9:13 PM
Post #89626 of 105309
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camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: granite_grrl wrote: snoopy138 wrote: drivel wrote: caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: granite_grrl wrote: camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: jakedatc wrote: drivel wrote: jakedatc wrote: Dammit Doc why didn't you train a replacement Gunks partner before you left.. 50F mon and tues this week and fuck if i'll find a gym rat who will go. just show up in the parking lot with a rope and gears. has always worked for me. on a monday in the winter at the gunks? thats a slight risk for 3.5 hr each way Sounds like we're in the same boat. My partner for the Glass just bailed. Don't think I'm going to drive 7 hrs down by myself to wrangle partners. Fuck. you just went from two partners to zero partners in like 45 minutes! It's the snowball effect, or the selling off bad stocks effect. One person bails, so the other gets unsure and bails. The really lame thing is that the third partner bailed because he found a ride to share to Chatt. Now I'm left with no partners, and no rideshare! Madface! You know, you probably would'nt have this issue if you were married to another climber..... ...oh wait. oh no you di'int!!! Oh yes she diiiiid!!! Hopefully have another partner lined up for next weekend, who is a more solid leader/partner as well for the granite slabs. But still, Jesus fucking Christ. Oh, and See Eye, I can't sleeze my way onto the Chattanooga ride, because it's already 3 people plus pads in a tiny car. Not really psyched on bouldering, either, since my periodization has not peaked yet, and I'm pretty weak right now on power. That's why I was so looking forward to tard climbing. no chance you can strongarm drizzle? hahahaha!! Of course there's no chance. drizzle has dancy team performance/competition this weekend, which is the focus of all the practicing i've been doing for the last two months. two weeks from now, I am giving a talk (about 30 talks, out of about 600 abstracts submitted) at a big science conference in the windee citee. It will probably severly affect my jorb prospects. So even if I wasnt going to a dancy thing an hour away, I woudlnt be going to norcakalak on a 7 hour drive. I'll pull my climbing shoes otu of the closet and dust my dignitah in april. so i'll get to climb in april and dizmay. then camhat abandons me for 2-3 months to go out to utah. then fall when i'll be writing my dissertation. this summer is probably when i'll have the most time, but i wont have mah partnah. :(((((((((((((( klyme with lena? Three's a crowd? Lena <3 banz? I am unsure if that is supposed to be saying "Lena luvz Banz," or if it s saying "One Lena is less than 3 Banzes." You could make a case for either, tho. Isn't Banz <2 Lena a much closer question? Not sure. I would not be surprised if Dan at his largest is > 2(Lena). PTFTW > camhed
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snoopy138
Feb 25, 2012, 9:13 PM
Post #89627 of 105309
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whoo!
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snoopy138
Feb 25, 2012, 9:14 PM
Post #89628 of 105309
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won more
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camhead
Feb 25, 2012, 9:20 PM
Post #89629 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: granite_grrl wrote: snoopy138 wrote: drivel wrote: caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: granite_grrl wrote: camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: jakedatc wrote: drivel wrote: jakedatc wrote: Dammit Doc why didn't you train a replacement Gunks partner before you left.. 50F mon and tues this week and fuck if i'll find a gym rat who will go. just show up in the parking lot with a rope and gears. has always worked for me. on a monday in the winter at the gunks? thats a slight risk for 3.5 hr each way Sounds like we're in the same boat. My partner for the Glass just bailed. Don't think I'm going to drive 7 hrs down by myself to wrangle partners. Fuck. you just went from two partners to zero partners in like 45 minutes! It's the snowball effect, or the selling off bad stocks effect. One person bails, so the other gets unsure and bails. The really lame thing is that the third partner bailed because he found a ride to share to Chatt. Now I'm left with no partners, and no rideshare! Madface! You know, you probably would'nt have this issue if you were married to another climber..... ...oh wait. oh no you di'int!!! Oh yes she diiiiid!!! Hopefully have another partner lined up for next weekend, who is a more solid leader/partner as well for the granite slabs. But still, Jesus fucking Christ. Oh, and See Eye, I can't sleeze my way onto the Chattanooga ride, because it's already 3 people plus pads in a tiny car. Not really psyched on bouldering, either, since my periodization has not peaked yet, and I'm pretty weak right now on power. That's why I was so looking forward to tard climbing. no chance you can strongarm drizzle? hahahaha!! Of course there's no chance. drizzle has dancy team performance/competition this weekend, which is the focus of all the practicing i've been doing for the last two months. two weeks from now, I am giving a talk (about 30 talks, out of about 600 abstracts submitted) at a big science conference in the windee citee. It will probably severly affect my jorb prospects. So even if I wasnt going to a dancy thing an hour away, I woudlnt be going to norcakalak on a 7 hour drive. I'll pull my climbing shoes otu of the closet and dust my dignitah in april. so i'll get to climb in april and dizmay. then camhat abandons me for 2-3 months to go out to utah. then fall when i'll be writing my dissertation. this summer is probably when i'll have the most time, but i wont have mah partnah. :(((((((((((((( klyme with lena? Three's a crowd? Lena <3 banz? I am unsure if that is supposed to be saying "Lena luvz Banz," or if it s saying "One Lena is less than 3 Banzes." You could make a case for either, tho. Isn't Banz <2 Lena a much closer question? Not sure. I would not be surprised if Dan at his largest is > 2(Lena). PTFTW > camhed Yeah, I think that's one of the foundational laws of mathematics.
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carabiner96
Feb 26, 2012, 4:34 PM
Post #89630 of 105309
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Well, blew open my incision. Yuck. Another round of stitches for me.
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chossmonkey
Feb 26, 2012, 4:59 PM
Post #89631 of 105309
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camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/hart-draw/107483982 Hart's draw, the wingate canyon just N of Indian Creek, seems to have just popped up on the project. I'd heard tell of the place, kind of a no documentation kind of spot. out of the bag now I guess. Aww, crap. ELITIST!!!!!!
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chossmonkey
Feb 26, 2012, 5:02 PM
Post #89632 of 105309
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jakedatc wrote: Dammit Doc why didn't you train a replacement Gunks partner before you left.. 50F mon and tues this week and fuck if i'll find a gym rat who will go. I bet Russ was climbing at the Gunks. I even heard he climbs at crappy little gyms.
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chossmonkey
Feb 26, 2012, 5:05 PM
Post #89633 of 105309
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drivel wrote: jakedatc wrote: Dammit Doc why didn't you train a replacement Gunks partner before you left.. 50F mon and tues this week and fuck if i'll find a gym rat who will go. just show up in the parking lot with a rope and gears. has always worked for me. Yes, but you are slight more effeminate than Jake. Even with his delicate bone structure and shaved legs.
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chossmonkey
Feb 26, 2012, 5:07 PM
Post #89634 of 105309
(5584 views)
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jakedatc wrote: drivel wrote: jakedatc wrote: Dammit Doc why didn't you train a replacement Gunks partner before you left.. 50F mon and tues this week and fuck if i'll find a gym rat who will go. just show up in the parking lot with a rope and gears. has always worked for me. on a monday in the winter at the gunks? thats a slight risk for 3.5 hr each way Soloist? Silent Partner? Grigri?
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chossmonkey
Feb 26, 2012, 5:08 PM
Post #89635 of 105309
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caughtinside wrote: jakedatc wrote: drivel wrote: jakedatc wrote: Dammit Doc why didn't you train a replacement Gunks partner before you left.. 50F mon and tues this week and fuck if i'll find a gym rat who will go. just show up in the parking lot with a rope and gears. has always worked for me. on a monday in the winter at the gunks? thats a slight risk for 3.5 hr each way Do some easy solos or do some TR solo if the partner search is fruitless. Always have a backup to your backup to your plan. Durp.
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chossmonkey
Feb 26, 2012, 5:09 PM
Post #89636 of 105309
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camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: jakedatc wrote: drivel wrote: jakedatc wrote: Dammit Doc why didn't you train a replacement Gunks partner before you left.. 50F mon and tues this week and fuck if i'll find a gym rat who will go. just show up in the parking lot with a rope and gears. has always worked for me. on a monday in the winter at the gunks? thats a slight risk for 3.5 hr each way Sounds like we're in the same boat. My partner for the Glass just bailed. Don't think I'm going to drive 7 hrs down by myself to wrangle partners. Fuck. you just went from two partners to zero partners in like 45 minutes! It's the snowball effect, or the selling off bad stocks effect. One person bails, so the other gets unsure and bails. The really lame thing is that the third partner bailed because he found a ride to share to Chatt. Now I'm left with no partners, and no rideshare! Madface! Too bad ewe aren't married to a climber.....
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chossmonkey
Feb 26, 2012, 5:11 PM
Post #89637 of 105309
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meatbomz wrote: caughtinside wrote: granite_grrl wrote: camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: jakedatc wrote: drivel wrote: jakedatc wrote: Dammit Doc why didn't you train a replacement Gunks partner before you left.. 50F mon and tues this week and fuck if i'll find a gym rat who will go. just show up in the parking lot with a rope and gears. has always worked for me. on a monday in the winter at the gunks? thats a slight risk for 3.5 hr each way Sounds like we're in the same boat. My partner for the Glass just bailed. Don't think I'm going to drive 7 hrs down by myself to wrangle partners. Fuck. you just went from two partners to zero partners in like 45 minutes! It's the snowball effect, or the selling off bad stocks effect. One person bails, so the other gets unsure and bails. The really lame thing is that the third partner bailed because he found a ride to share to Chatt. Now I'm left with no partners, and no rideshare! Madface! You know, you probably would'nt have this issue if you were married to another climber..... ...oh wait. oh no you di'int!!! she did indeed go there Whoooo!!! That's me my wife!!!!!!
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chossmonkey
Feb 26, 2012, 5:12 PM
Post #89638 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: And in other news, OMG, hangboard sucks! Or rather, I suck. 6 sets of 6 holds, and weights, ha! I did 6 sets on 2 holds, with no added weights, and I was done. Actually slipped off the holds on the last rep. If dribble can do 6 sets, I am really humbled. The holds were really similar, both about 1-1.5 pad, one was more flat on top, and the other one was meant to be a sloping 3-finger pocket, I guess, but I used it for 4 fingers, because dammit, they fit. This is pathetic. I don't think I can do any of the crimps, and I don't see any point in going to bigger holds, so I don't know if i should try to build up to 3-4-5 sets on just these holds for now, or what? Oh, and my skin is not meant to withstand it. And my elbows felt funny. And I don't know how to breath while doing 6 sec-4 sec cycles. Did that cover all the whining? camhead, a question: how high is your hangboard, relative to your height, e.i. do you have to tiptoe-stretch to reach the holds, or do you reach without pulling your shoulders up, and then lift your legs to hang? I found that the first hold I tried was too high -- I didn't think so when I was just trying it for the height at which to hang the board, because I can reach it if I stand on tiptoes and kind-of pull my arms up and out of the shoulder sockets, But then there is that extra move of pulling up into a good shoulder form (pulling the shoulders down), and that just about killed me. The other hold I used was more like "reach it without extending and then kick up your feet to hang", and that felt much better on my shoulders. So, do you think I need a step-stool for the holds that are barely reachable? :) Hey Lena, even though you say you suck, you are right where you should be right now. The good news is that with hangboarding you improve QUICKLY. Rest for two days, and do one more session just the same as the one that trashed you, and then for the next one (your 3rd workout?) add 5 lbs; and you should reach failure at the same time you did with no weight the previous week. The bad news is that, if you're doing it right, your forearms should be trashed right now, and it pretty much limits all other climbing you will be doing. I need at least 72 hrs of recovery after a hangboard sesh, and the only other climbing I can do in the interim is REALLY easy ARCing (which can still be productive, though, just to keep your enduro up). Me and dribble usually keep the hangboard a bit lower, like, just above head height; you shouldn't have to jump for it, since this will put unnecessary strain on your arms at the beginning of each rep. Rather than a stool, I would use pillows and a stacked up boulder pad to gain height, though. The other plus of having a lower hangboard is that you can focus on static form of keeping your feet off the ground (lifting your knees or thighs), and this actually engages the core almost enough to count as a core workout. At the end of a good sesh, my core.getcore() is so trashed that I usually can't do leglifts. For breathing, I've found that the reps are short enough that if you just take a deep breath during your rests, that's good. For skin, use tape, possibly with some spray adhesive to keep it on, but the best thing I found for skin is to move to small holds as quickly as you can. Once you're not stressing that fold of skin under the first knuckle, the pain and gobies become less prevalent. For the elbows, that may be your biggest challenge (and campusing is even tougher on them). Definitely keep the same angle of elbows throughout your workout; Manderson made the good point that as your elbow angle changes, you are subtlely changing the strain on your forearms, and thus not working them to true failure. For my elbow pain, I also begin each workout with two Ibuprofen and one Tylenol. Finally, this is a super key time to soak your arms in ice water at the end of your workout; 10 minutes apiece. Just sit back, soak 'em, and make your kids get you dessert! So what hangboards do you guys have? I ask because the one that we have seems to be mostly crimps and pockets and I feel like I might have problems finding enough variety for 6 grips types, though ours looks like it might have move to it than a lot of hang boards out there. I'm probably just limiting myself. It's an old one, but other than being Metolious I can't tell you anything about it (nor can I find any photos of it). I have two. Entreprise Hangtime http://www.epusa.com/store/hangtime.html And moon fingerboard http://www.amazon.com/...-Stone/dp/B0071OVKES Neither one is quite what I would like. Enteprise one is almost too easy, only one rail that is worth working on for Mandersonian hangboard workout. But I do like the fact that it is a rail, so it is easy to adjust your grip from wide to narrow, depending on how wide your shoulders are. Moon board still has those small crimps that I can't touch. I can hang on the larger of the two small crimps, but barely, I don't think I can do a full 6 sec hang on it, and def not a set of 6 of them, repeated 6 times. But it is a lofty goal. Absolutely missing are slopers (the ones on top of the moonboard are a possibility in the future, maybe) and pinches. If I were buying a new one, I would probably go for something like this IronPalm from SoIll/Cryptochild: http://www.soillholds.com/iron-palm-moderate From the description it seems perfect for me right now... But I have never had a chance to touch one, or even see it IRL, so who knows, I might be completely off. Failing that, I almost think you are better off getting a few holds and bolting them to a 2x6 or a 2x8. You might be able to scrounge from your wall, even? Ive been interested in the new Detroit Rock Company board as well. Oh, and I think we're bailing on Looking Glass. Got a third in the car, and are heading down to Chattarado. christ, ewe guise and yore hangboredz make ice climbing sound interesting. Hangboard tawk is now a recognized BET subfield. so is ice tawk, and I'm not saying either is a gud thing. Ooohh!! I should post pics of the gnu routes from this weekend!!!
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chossmonkey
Feb 26, 2012, 5:21 PM
Post #89640 of 105309
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meatbomz wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: jakedatc wrote: drivel wrote: jakedatc wrote: Dammit Doc why didn't you train a replacement Gunks partner before you left.. 50F mon and tues this week and fuck if i'll find a gym rat who will go. just show up in the parking lot with a rope and gears. has always worked for me. on a monday in the winter at the gunks? thats a slight risk for 3.5 hr each way Sounds like we're in the same boat. My partner for the Glass just bailed. Don't think I'm going to drive 7 hrs down by myself to wrangle partners. Fuck. I bet you could get in a killer hangbored werkowt. maybe sh00tz yourself in teh fase while you're at it. I'm down and out these days. Can't get an original thought in to save my life. Shoot yourself in the side of the head?
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chossmonkey
Feb 26, 2012, 5:49 PM
Post #89641 of 105309
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camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: granite_grrl wrote: camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: jakedatc wrote: drivel wrote: jakedatc wrote: Dammit Doc why didn't you train a replacement Gunks partner before you left.. 50F mon and tues this week and fuck if i'll find a gym rat who will go. just show up in the parking lot with a rope and gears. has always worked for me. on a monday in the winter at the gunks? thats a slight risk for 3.5 hr each way Sounds like we're in the same boat. My partner for the Glass just bailed. Don't think I'm going to drive 7 hrs down by myself to wrangle partners. Fuck. you just went from two partners to zero partners in like 45 minutes! It's the snowball effect, or the selling off bad stocks effect. One person bails, so the other gets unsure and bails. The really lame thing is that the third partner bailed because he found a ride to share to Chatt. Now I'm left with no partners, and no rideshare! Madface! You know, you probably would'nt have this issue if you were married to another climber..... ...oh wait. oh no you di'int!!! Oh yes she diiiiid!!! Hopefully have another partner lined up for next weekend, who is a more solid leader/partner as well for the granite slabs. But still, Jesus fucking Christ. Oh, and See Eye, I can't sleeze my way onto the Chattanooga ride, because it's already 3 people plus pads in a tiny car. Not really psyched on bouldering, either, since my periodization has not peaked yet, and I'm pretty weak right now on power. That's why I was so looking forward to tard climbing. You are secretly relieved you get to stay home and have a fun weekend of hangboarding Nerding out whey more than that. I've decided to devote my time to putting together a mashup of song samples that I can use to time my hangboard workout to, with countdowns, rests, samples of James Brown saying "get on up," and so forth. It's going to be way radder than a stopwatch. That will be almost as awesome as when The Distance by Cake was playing at Ouray while I was climbing up to and across the ice bridge. And then that "look at the stars, and how they shine for you" song was playing while I was on the headwall an hitting the ice. Not that I remembered any of that or was really aware of what was actually playing at the time. As far as I know it was completely random. They didn't start actually playing play lists until later into the comp. It was also pretty ironic that End of the World by REM started up on the radio as we pulled away from my house on the drive out.
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chossmonkey
Feb 26, 2012, 5:52 PM
Post #89642 of 105309
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carabiner96 wrote: Well, blew open my incision. Yuck. Another round of stitches for me. Pics??!! I might believe that is nasty.
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chossmonkey
Feb 26, 2012, 5:53 PM
Post #89643 of 105309
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pibbler
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carabiner96
Feb 26, 2012, 6:09 PM
Post #89644 of 105309
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chossmonkey wrote: carabiner96 wrote: Well, blew open my incision. Yuck. Another round of stitches for me. Pics??!! I might believe that is nasty. Yeah, it was super awesome feeling my socket fill with blood as I finished the run. FWIW, it didn't really happen from skiing, I was sitting in the snow and when I pushed myself back up I felt a pop and immediately went 'shit'. Pics to follow.
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snoopy138
Feb 26, 2012, 8:16 PM
Post #89645 of 105309
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carabiner96 wrote: Well, blew open my incision. Yuck. Another round of stitches for me. pictures? that sounds shitty, though.
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snoopy138
Feb 26, 2012, 8:17 PM
Post #89646 of 105309
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chossmonkey wrote: meatbomz wrote: caughtinside wrote: granite_grrl wrote: camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: jakedatc wrote: drivel wrote: jakedatc wrote: Dammit Doc why didn't you train a replacement Gunks partner before you left.. 50F mon and tues this week and fuck if i'll find a gym rat who will go. just show up in the parking lot with a rope and gears. has always worked for me. on a monday in the winter at the gunks? thats a slight risk for 3.5 hr each way Sounds like we're in the same boat. My partner for the Glass just bailed. Don't think I'm going to drive 7 hrs down by myself to wrangle partners. Fuck. you just went from two partners to zero partners in like 45 minutes! It's the snowball effect, or the selling off bad stocks effect. One person bails, so the other gets unsure and bails. The really lame thing is that the third partner bailed because he found a ride to share to Chatt. Now I'm left with no partners, and no rideshare! Madface! You know, you probably would'nt have this issue if you were married to another climber..... ...oh wait. oh no you di'int!!! she did indeed go there Whoooo!!! That's me my wifesponsor!!!!!! fixied
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caughtinside
Feb 26, 2012, 10:17 PM
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Good day out at the DTSA yesterday, depite a late friday night of wine and revelry. I think we hit the crag at noon. Got a bunch of photos with the fancy camera, I'll post up once I get them. Didn't get on anything super hard, I did try my old project the Two Stump Chump, an ecological nightmare I am responsible for. It's never nice to be reminded of old mistakes... I did not clean the crux enough and everything breaks and the rock is more shitty than usual. I can free the whole thing except for like 18 inches, maybe a single move, maybe two. Have to go out with the brush and the gloo and fix it up. Tried to do some gym today but was just out of gas and climbed like pewp.
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jakedatc
Feb 26, 2012, 11:55 PM
Post #89648 of 105309
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chossmonkey wrote: jakedatc wrote: drivel wrote: jakedatc wrote: Dammit Doc why didn't you train a replacement Gunks partner before you left.. 50F mon and tues this week and fuck if i'll find a gym rat who will go. just show up in the parking lot with a rope and gears. has always worked for me. on a monday in the winter at the gunks? thats a slight risk for 3.5 hr each way Soloist? Silent Partner? Grigri? never done that before. should probably learn one day. ah well.
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carabiner96
Feb 27, 2012, 12:13 AM
Post #89649 of 105309
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(This post was edited by carabiner96 on Feb 27, 2012, 12:14 AM)
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chossmonkey
Feb 27, 2012, 12:52 AM
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carabiner96 wrote: chossmonkey wrote: carabiner96 wrote: Well, blew open my incision. Yuck. Another round of stitches for me. Pics??!! I might believe that is nasty. Yeah, it was super awesome feeling my socket fill with blood as I finished the run. FWIW, it didn't really happen from skiing, I was sitting in the snow and when I pushed myself back up I felt a pop and immediately went 'shit'. Pics to follow. Ddi you leave a blood trail?
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