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bigdrop
Jan 12, 2003, 6:13 AM
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In all your years of sport climbing, what has experience taught you (with regard to both climbing and belaying)?
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astrocrag
Jan 12, 2003, 6:27 AM
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Before you get to your first bolt the belayer has to double as a spotter like in bouldering. Falling before getting clipped into the first piece of pro, for myself is the scariest part of climbing. Whether it's a bolted route or trad. I always try to see the worst case scenario before I commit to a climb. Then ask myself if I can do this safely.
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duskerhu
Jan 12, 2003, 6:52 AM
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Try to NOT fall on anything less than vertical!
It can be relatively painful!
...And, if you're not going to wear a helmet, please, for the love of God, DO NOT FALL with the rope behind your leg! Which, is also relatively painful, but then, you may never know it...
I suppose I could go on, but I'll leave that up to others...
Live Free!
Play Hard!
Climb On!
duskerhu
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climbsomething
Jan 12, 2003, 7:22 AM
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...the one 'n only dynamic belay... learnt the virtues of it from my marvy partner/sport mentor/personal guru. Do a forum search for "dynamic belay" or keywords "jump(ing) while belaying" and soak in all of jt512's advice on the subject.
I'm gonna take over the world with my "koach" Or, at least redpoint an 11
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rprp
Jan 12, 2003, 4:27 PM
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You always tell new people to focus on their feet, but if there are jugs, they will just haul themselves up with those.
So I would suggest that if it is at all possible, you start people out on some thin slabs where they must focus on the feet since there are not any big handholds.
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maiorlive
Jan 12, 2003, 5:07 PM
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Listen to your belayer. Chose a belayer who will insist that you listen to them. Especially when you first start outside on lead much of your attention gets focused on making the move and not falling. You're belayer should then focus on what happens if you fall. Never let your focus on the move get between you and an instruction from your belayer.
You will fall at some point. And if you've been pissing off your belayers by ignoring them, chances are you'll have a less than stellar belay when you fall. Not a pretty thought.
W
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rockseeker
Jan 12, 2003, 6:03 PM
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Please watch out for "backclipping" or "reverse-clipping". You should pull your rope and "lay" it in the biner. If you have twisted the draw and do this you have "backclipped", also if you twist the loop of rope and lay it in you have backclipped. This could possibly lead to a disasterous situation when in the case of a fall the rope may fall in such a way as to unclip that bolt offering no protection. Sorry about the poor description, but I can't put words together today, if anybody else can make a better explanation...please do!
--Kevin
somebody should note "z" clipping too
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climbingpride
Jan 12, 2003, 6:39 PM
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Repeates:
Rope behind leg
spotting before bolt
Backcliping
To help you gain more technique I would:
Move slow, and smoothly, Force=(mass)(accel)
Less force on the hold makes you stick better
Do Everything in your power not to sit on a top-rope
plan several moves before makeing the next one, as you get better you'll be able to make these plans with less "pre-thought"
If you "elvis", work at getting rid of that first.
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repete
Jan 13, 2003, 4:21 AM
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Make sure you clip every bolt especially when you run the risk of decking out. When you are starting out i would wear a helmet for sure. Make sure you are clipping good bolts and for god sakes learn from someone who knows what they are doing.
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topher
Jan 13, 2003, 5:35 AM
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when you havent cliped the first bolt and i am belying i dont have the belay device clipped to my. i hold it in my hand and spot, (the place we climb is a big ledge with a small 30 foot cliff below it) this is so if the climber falls and for some reason they fall off the ledge ( ledge is like 15 feet wide in most parts. so its not to likly) both people dont get ripped down. this is a safty issue if there is only two of you because in any rescue you need one person who is still in the position to help.
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jt512
Jan 13, 2003, 4:51 PM
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Ignore everybody's advice to buy comfy "beginner" shoes, and get a pair of slippers instead, so that you can feel your footholds. Okay, now that you can feel what you're standing on, learn to pull on holds with your toes to keep your body in close to the wall and take weight off your hands. You know you are doing this key move correctly if, on a verical wall, you can easily let go with one hand.
-Jay
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dstein
Jan 13, 2003, 5:02 PM
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COMMUNICATION - COMMUNICATION - COMMUNICATION
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bigdrop
Jan 14, 2003, 9:44 PM
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Thanks for all the advice. I'm taking my first ever lead test @ cedar climbing (our local gym) tonight.
cheers,
~jc
[ This Message was edited by: bigdrop on 2003-01-14 13:45 ]
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tim
Jan 14, 2003, 10:15 PM
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[small]This topic was moved to the Sport Climbing forum by tim[/small]
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brutusofwyde
Jan 14, 2003, 10:21 PM
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Well, I just tried posting this to the beginners forum, only to have Tim move the discussion out from under me.
(So here I go, trying again, although I know squat about sport climbing.)
I am surprised.
surprised and frightened by what I have read in the responses to this thread. Or rather, what I have NOT read:
To beginner and expert alike, I would offer these tips:
Buddy system:
Every time you tie into the rope, every time your partner heads up from where you belay, check each other.
Is your harness doubled back?
Is your tie-in knot finished?
Is the belay carabiner locked, and the belay device set up properly? Is your rappel set up properly? If your partner is already down below, take the time, take that extra breath of time, to take one calm thorough look at the system to which you are about to entrust your life.
Double check yourself, and your partner.
Everything looks OK, Yes? guess what-- we forgot to check if the tie-in knot goes around both leg loops and waist belt (for those harnesses that use this tie in system)
Do not talk while you are tying in, preparing to belay, or preparing to rappel. Do not scope or "air climb" the route. Avoid distractions.
Do not assume that your rope is long enough to lower off of any particular climb. Either tie a knot in the "non-sharp" end of the rope. or have the belayer tie in. Every time. Even in the gym. When rapping, make sure that your rappel rope ends are even, and that you have enough rope to reach the ground, or the next station. If rappelling unknown terrain, be aware of approaching the ends of the rope, and have the knowledge and means to reascend if necessary. Knot the ends of the rap rope when appropriate.
Tie-in knot failure, letting the end of the rope slip through the belay device, failure to double check the simplest systems, those that are non-redundant, are the basis for some of the most serious accidents in climbing, and happen to even the best climbers in the world, including Lynn Hill for example.
The resulting accidents are so terribly tragic because they are so completely unnecessary, and they forever change the lives of the victims.
Bottom line is: Lets be careful out there.
Climb on, and climb safe.
Brutus of Wyde
Old Climbers' Home
Oakland, California
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lox
Jan 14, 2003, 10:30 PM
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Quit now.
Go boldering.
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elvislegs
Jan 14, 2003, 10:44 PM
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My advice. Beware all advice given to you online.
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hroldan
Jan 14, 2003, 10:46 PM
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WARM UP! and control your breathing
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climbjs
Jan 14, 2003, 10:57 PM
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I think that demonstrating how to have a safe and fun time is priority. It seems as if (myself included), it took a few trips before I understood the mechanical aspects of climbing, including top-ropes, how draws clipped into bolts protected a fall, and the importance of a safe belay. When I take new climbers out, I just let them have safe fun on the rock and reassure them of the safety aspects of climbing by giving easy examples of how the mechanics work. The more they climb, the more they are able to comprehend climbing systems.
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ikefromla
Jan 16, 2003, 3:50 AM
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focus. breathe comfortably. be at peace with yourself. accept the possibility of falling. Climb till you fall; don't say, "take," you may surprise yourself.
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gawd
Jan 16, 2003, 7:08 AM
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never take...always fall
what is the point of quitting(taking)?? you should work till faliure. that is the point of sport climbing. is to attempt harder and harder grades always pushing yourself and mastering your technique for each medium of stone and style of ascent.
NEVER QUIT, ALWAYS FAIL
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sean34
Jan 16, 2003, 7:59 AM
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"My advice. Beware all advice given to you online."
ummm ya I guess...reminds of a joke I heard about New Years resolutions. Lady asks her husband if he made any resolutions and if so what were they. He responds "This year, my resolution is to not tell anybody my New Years resolution."
[ This Message was edited by: sean34 on 2003-01-16 11:37 ]
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bigdrop
Jan 18, 2003, 2:07 PM
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Thanks for all the advice everyone.
We took our first lead test and passed!
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madriver
Jan 18, 2003, 3:35 PM
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Gawd
Nice post...props to you
Peace,
MR
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flash
Jan 20, 2003, 12:00 AM
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Well, by now you are probably no longer starting out, or needing this, but either way... below should help any one in the adventure sport of climbing (yeah, Trad/Sport... and any other roped-climbers).
** Safety : Redundancy (on everything, and that includes 2 binners at anchors!)
** Safety : Think before you act as to avoid accidents.
** Technique : Fluid motion, use grace and flexibility.
** Technique : Feet... more feet. We all want to improve, advance, etc... but while strong hands / strong arms will only have you stagger. Good foot work innevitably reign and will take you places above and beyond what most imagine.
** Curteous?... AH AH AH ... here's a good one for you. Avoid those grunts that annoy the calm realm and nature. All and all, a calm body and relaxed mind will get you up the climbs.
Y'all just sh*t up when you climb, okay?!?. PLEASE!
Vic
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