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jiadar
Jan 23, 2003, 5:37 PM
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Thin Face, a 5.5 30 foot climb at Rocktown. After getting it dialed on TR, I lead it placing 3 cams, a red tricam, an alien, and slung a horn.
My first onsight lead was Kids Corner at lost wall. An overrated 5.6. I used an alien, two cams, and three nuts. It felt like a 5.8 on the sharp end! Because it was slabby, I'm now engrained with the "Leader must not fall" philophosy...
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ouflyboy9
Jan 23, 2003, 5:37 PM
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My first trad lead was bedtime for bonzo in Red River Gorge.....I was carrying eveything I could..I don't remember how much gear I placed but it was probably too much.
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loren
Jan 24, 2003, 6:53 PM
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Father and Son. A 5.7 I think at the RRG. I placed lots of nuts and maybe a cam or two. I don't remember the name of the crag but it's the same place as Casual Veiwing.
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jamison
Jan 24, 2003, 7:05 PM
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Pooh Corner?? 5.6 in the Sam's Throne area, Arkansas. Probably 5 or 6 years ago.
Looking back I remember it always seeming harder than a 5.6. I had just started, so who knows. But it doesn't matter. It scared the poop out of me.
rack: nuts, tricams, and probably a few cams. Can't 'member what I used.
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tkambitsch
Jan 24, 2003, 9:03 PM
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My first trad lead was Motha (5.6) at Roadside crag in the Red River Gorge. Although only about 50-60 feet I probably sewed it up with 12 pieces of gear, including my recently pruchased tr-cams.
There is no stronger image that sticks in my mind from my years of climbing. I'm about half way up that first climb looking down between my feet and seeing that line of runners between me and George. That got me hooked on trad climbing.
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ricardol
Jan 27, 2003, 6:36 AM
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This weekend saw a bunch of firsts for me..
1st trad lead: Swallows Crack at Pinnacles (5.6)
1st fixed piece: fixed a brand spanking new #12 BD stopper on portent at pinnacles (5.6)
1st multipitch (sort of) .. swung leads on portent and on regular route (monolith at pinnacles) both 5.6
also led ordeal at pinnacles (5.8 )
Then i somehow got over my head and led 2 5.9 climbs at consummes river gorge.. what was i thinking -- totally sketched -- throwing cams into any place i could find! ..
1st fall on lead on a 5.9 finger to fist crack at consummes river gorge (pro was at knees when i fell no biggie -- about 5'). Fell on a #6 BD stopper 3x, and it held beautifully. I finally gave up and aided off a yellow cam placement!
-- ricardo
[ This Message was edited by: ricardol on 2003-01-26 22:36 ]
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t-dog
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Jan 30, 2003, 4:33 AM
Post #57 of 91
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first lead was Lazy Day 5.7 in J-Tree, fortunately it was one of the easier rated 5.7 climbs at J-tree.
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phugganut
Jan 30, 2003, 5:16 AM
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My first climb ever was trad. About 9 years ago I was in Boulder, CO visiting family, and just on a whim I let someone take me climbing. We did Bastille Crack @ Eldorado Canyon, and I saw the light...
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alpinerocket
Jan 30, 2003, 5:52 AM
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My first lead was a Trad lead up a 5.7 crack that had bomber nut placements. All I used was a set of nuts and I think a tri-cam or 2. It is in Ogden Cny Utah, probebly never heard of it. Anyway I still take people who are learning about pro and leading to it.
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marks
Feb 1, 2003, 10:16 AM
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my first route was roscoes wall in the peak district h.v.s 5b or 5.10a i used a nut 7 in a crack at half height.its still one of my fav routes.
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sneville
Feb 3, 2003, 8:14 PM
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my first trad climb was Turkey Chute(5.6) at Mission Gorge. It was a short fun crack climb. I had some BD cams and a set of nuts.
[ This Message was edited by: sneville on 2003-02-03 12:16 ]
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slab-dyno
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Feb 16, 2003, 11:51 PM
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Swan Slab Gulley in Yosemite. EASY 5.6.
Jimmy
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pywiak
Feb 17, 2003, 1:04 AM
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My first trad lead was "West Chimney", 5.6, on Intersection Rock, Hidden Valley, Joshua Tree National Monument, on December 27, 1974. I got 10' of 1" webbing for a swami, a locking carabiner, and three or four hex stock chocks (all the same size) for Christmas that year. One of those chocks was key to protecting this vile 5.6 slot. It was all uphill from there...trying to catch up with beeveebee.
[ This Message was edited by: pywiak on 2003-02-16 17:05 ]
[ This Message was edited by: pywiak on 2003-02-16 17:08 ]
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beckerw
Feb 17, 2003, 4:40 AM
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white whale at lumpy.
cams and nuts
there are not many better belay stations.
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wheels5150
Aug 17, 2005, 5:57 PM
Post #65 of 91
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First trad - Joshua Tree - part of a route at Lost Horse (addiction starts here) - 01/05
First Lead - Yosemite - Church Bowl lieback - carried 5x more pro than I needed (argh) - 07/05
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livinonasandbar
Aug 17, 2005, 6:47 PM
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The first multi-pitch trad route I lead was the 1st Flatiron near Boulder. Took a full rack... cams, nuts, slings, cordelettes, etc., etc... My friend, who was following each pitch, and I were standing at my carefully constructed, bomb-proof anchor about 2/3 the way up when this guy came "hiking" up past us with only shoes and a chalk bag. "Great day for climbing, isn't it?" he pleasantly asked as he went by us and continued on to the top. We could only laugh...
Still, the Flatiron was a great "first lead". (The slab at the bottom is pretty run out between those two I-bolts!)
Peace.
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mcfoley
Aug 17, 2005, 7:40 PM
Post #67 of 91
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1st trad route was at Ortega falls- SoCal a no-name .9...TR'd it quite a bit then got the nerve to lead it...
1st Trad onsight was Toe Jam 5.7 at J-tree. The top felt a little runout at the time. Found out later that the big red mark on the slab was blood from a head injury...glad I fount that out after I led it!!!
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cadaverchris
Aug 17, 2005, 8:05 PM
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route: Thin Air 5.6 Cathedral Ledge NH
gear: nuts, hexes, tri-cams, not enough slings/biners
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burundanga
Aug 17, 2005, 8:57 PM
Post #69 of 91
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My first trad lead was at Dens Rocks in Andover, MA. Inside of a chimney there is a , and all i had was a set of BD hexes, most of the placements zyperd out of the wall, pretty fun though, alothough a bit sketched out.
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hangerlessbolt
Aug 17, 2005, 9:13 PM
Post #70 of 91
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1ST trad route I followed was “Overhang Bypass” (5.7) – Intersection Rock – Joshua Tree
1st trad route I led was “The Reverend” (5.8) – Billboard Buttress – Indian Cove
Woody Stark was the gent who set me up on it. He led it and I followed. We rapped off and walked back around to the start of the route. Since I had cleaned, I still had all of the pieces he used on me. He said, “Looks like you’re racked up. Go ahead and tie in.”
I was a little (read: a lot!) nervous. I hadn’t anticipated leading anytime soon…and the “rack” was comprised of a couple of nuts, a couple of hexes, and a few tripled draws.
I remember getting about halfway up…and getting the rope trapped between my foot and the rock…I couldn’t seem to unjam my foot. Having exactly ZERO crack climbing experience to speak of…I was stuck!
I managed to squirm my way out of my predicament, but was so sketched I clung to the rock for dear life…taking forever to make any progress.
What I lacked in style I more than made up for in scrapes and scratches.
I spent the better part of the following year acting as rope gun for our little band of three amigos. (Me, toobigtoclimb [aka: Brian], and ffaallliinngg [aka: Dr. Bob])
Taking down some of the more notoriously sandbagged routes, such as:
Upper Right Ski Track…The Bong…Mike’s Books…Fote Hog…The Mikado….(5.3, 5.4, 5.6, 5.6, 5.6 respectively)
*laughing*
It took over a year for me to lead another 5.8< trad route. I took my time and got tons of practice on routes well below my onsight limit…most importantly…we had a ton of fun doing it.
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hairyapeman
Aug 17, 2005, 9:22 PM
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First trad route was Commitment at yosemite falls. Commitment is a 5.9 3 pitch trad route to the left (five open books) of Yosemite falls. I used: 3-#.5, 2-#.75, 3-#1, 2-#2, 1-#3 BD C4's, A set of DMM Wallnuts, 48", and 2 24" slings. And of course locking and wiregate biners. It was a kick in the pants to lead!
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mojavedesertrat
Aug 21, 2005, 5:22 AM
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MY first trad follow was years ago and I have no idea what is was.
my first trad LEADs were two 5.4's and a 5.5. in the Romper Room area at Red Rocks, back in March.
first J-Tree lead [the only real rock climbing is at Joshua Tree ;)] was a 5.5 on Atlantis wall that had some weird name about cows I think.
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euthanasia
Aug 23, 2005, 8:17 PM
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Registered: May 2, 2004
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Pleasing to the Touch 5.6 The route is only about 50ft tall and I wouldn't be surprised if I placed 20 pieces.
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climbinginchico
Aug 23, 2005, 8:24 PM
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Registered: Mar 24, 2004
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First trad follow: Little Sheba 10a.
First trad lead: Puppy Crack 5.6. Nice short and easy.
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hiram
Aug 23, 2005, 8:37 PM
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Posts: 81
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Just last weekend I started trad climbing with
"American Crack" at the Red...........
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