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awsclimber
Feb 6, 2003, 12:05 AM
Post #26 of 34
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Registered: Apr 18, 2002
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As long as you have a second rope along, why isn't the leader double roping?
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antimatter
Feb 6, 2003, 12:44 AM
Post #27 of 34
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Registered: Feb 18, 2002
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I prefer to lead with a single 9.7 than alternately clipping two half 8.5's or clipping both 7.8 twins. Falling on a single 8.5 is stretchy, there's more to hit. Two 7.8's are heavy/draggy at about 125' and up. A single 9.7 produces less CF at the belay too.
To answer the question, we usually backpack an extra 50M 8.5. It's very light and fairly small. With the stretchiness of it, it works for most ~60M raps. To be safe, I'm going to start carrying a second 7.8 60M for double rope raps.
[ This Message was edited by: antimatter on 2003-02-05 16:47 ]
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beyond_gravity
Feb 6, 2003, 12:57 AM
Post #28 of 34
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Registered: Jan 2, 2002
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For rescue purposes on overhanging rock, it seems to me that having the leader trailing the rope would be the most logical. What if the leader pulls out over a big overhang and gets hit in the head with a rock? They fall and they are 20 feet out from the wall, unconscious. Then you can lower them to just below your level, tie off the belay and pull them in with the trailing rope. Way easier then any other rescue techniques.
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gawd
Feb 6, 2003, 4:48 PM
Post #29 of 34
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Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 193
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2 9mm 70m
no trailing and if you have 3. well that problem is solved too.
never have the 2nrd tag the rope. dumb
never carry it as a backpack. dumb
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bishop
Feb 6, 2003, 5:19 PM
Post #30 of 34
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Registered: Jun 27, 2001
Posts: 192
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antimatter... you took the exact words out of my mouth.
"I prefer to lead with a single 9.7 than alternately clipping two half 8.5's or clipping both 7.8 twins. Falling on a single 8.5 is stretchy, there's more to hit. Two 7.8's are heavy/draggy at about 125' and up. A single 9.7 produces less CF at the belay too."
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rrrADAM
Feb 6, 2003, 5:23 PM
Post #31 of 34
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Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553
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Sorry I even tried, so let me "split a hair" and pose a what if...
What if, you are traing your second rope, and it brushes against a thorny plant, and when you are recoiling it, you get a splinter, and it gets infected, and you have to get the finger removed (middle finger)... What level would you then be able to onsight if you are wearing oven mitts and had a missing finger ???
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rrrADAM
Feb 6, 2003, 6:11 PM
Post #32 of 34
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Registered: Dec 19, 1999
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Now that's a good one 'green'.
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tkambitsch
Feb 7, 2003, 12:57 AM
Post #33 of 34
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Registered: May 13, 2002
Posts: 39
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I've done it both ways. I like as previously mentioned that when the leader pulls the second rope s/he can
silently signal when s/he's anchored by pulling up the second.
If the leader does have a rope get stuck it certainly should be easier for the two working from both ends to get it unstuck.
The leader does have more work pulling up two ropes for each pitch. My partner never leads (260 lbs.) so pulling two ropes for each pitch get tiring, But since I get the fun of leading each pitch, I should not mind.
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dstein
Feb 7, 2003, 1:01 AM
Post #34 of 34
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Registered: Nov 17, 2002
Posts: 81
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Rope??? Where were going, who needs rope.
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