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davidji
May 13, 2003, 5:53 AM
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What kind of radios are best for climbing?
I have a set of inexpensive FRS radios. No privacy codes, so it's getting harder to use them--more and more people playing on whatever channel you chose.
I see now they have GMRS radios, some of which claim 5miles range, some 7 miles (do those GMRS radios have different power from each other, or just making different claims for the same real abilities?).
I think there are lightweight ham radio alternatives that give you a much better chance of calling for a rescue. I know little about this. Would I want a 2m/70cm, like this or something similar?
Should I finally break down and buy a cell phone? Do people still use CB?
Issues:
1. Ability to call for a rescue
2. Communication between partners.
3. Small & lightweight
4. Durable
5. Good battery life. Critical if used for communication between partners. Less important if only for emergency.
6. Inexpensive.
7. Ability to communicate with other climbing parties.
Call phone gives you #1, sometimes, and 3 & 5. A better FRS would provide #2-7. If you're really lucky, #1. Maybe GMRS gives all of em? I guess ham should give at least 1-3.
What have you used? What works?
Thanks,
David
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tahquitztwo
May 13, 2003, 7:07 AM
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I use the same type of radio you currently have and for the same reasons am going to switch to a set of FRS that have the "codes" on them.
Essentially, the radios that claim 5 mile ability are operating on FCC frequencies, usually channels 15-22. These require registering with a certificate and a fee with the FCC (I think it's about 35/year). However, they are still line of sight operation, just like the FRS two mile radios). If you have an FCC full license to operate voice ham with repeater, you would probably get better overall performance. Cellphones don't always work in some of the climbing areas (at least the ones I normally have been climbing at).
If you're going to try the 5miler radios. try to find ones operating at better than .5watts of power...the closer to two watts they're using, the better the distances they can actually cover (still line of sight, however).\
Goodluck.
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apollodorus
May 13, 2003, 7:30 AM
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Just call them as they are: Motorola Radio Thingies (MRTs). Get the ones with sub-codes. And make sure your friends have the code.
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ryanhos
May 13, 2003, 1:15 PM
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You'll probably want a small 2m handheld like the tiny Icom IC-T22A. Forget 70cm. There are 2m repeaters almost everywhere in the country. (if there is a repeater near, you're more likely to be able to summon help in an emergency.) As for licensing, (ahem, you WERE going to do that weren't you?) you can check with arrl.org for locations of tests in your area. You should be able to find enough information and practice tests on the web to pass, but there are also several good books published by the ARRL that you can pick up at borders or rip-off shack.
73,
KB9UTQ
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crag
May 13, 2003, 7:31 PM
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In reply to: What kind of radios are best for climbing?
Look into getting a HAM license. The radios are small and you won't have the problems you're having now. Sure it takes more time to learn and now how to use but look in to it, you might like it.
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traddad
May 13, 2003, 7:39 PM
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How about expendable?
Think:
Dropping one
Falling on one
Leaving one on a belay ledge
Dropping a rack on one
Grinding down the case in a chimney....
Remember Murphy's law.
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vegastradguy
May 13, 2003, 7:51 PM
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I have a pair of FRS radios that clip to our chest harnesses or gear slings. They're beefy, so they take the abuse nicely. They have good range and sub-channels. We leave which frequency(ies) we'll be using with our sig. others before we go climbing just in case, that way if a rescue is necessary, the rangers know where we are and what radio channel we are using.
also, I carry a cell phone, but I never get reception until I top out. its more for telling the time than for communication.
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bluelip
May 13, 2003, 8:55 PM
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In reply to: What kind of radios are best for climbing? I think there are lightweight ham radio alternatives that give you a much better chance of calling for a rescue. I know little about this. Would I want a 2m/70cm, like this or something similar? Thanks, David
I would go for an FCC 'ticket'. this license would allow you to use the ham radios. These radios will work better over longer distances. For mult-day excusrions, solar chargers ae available. Like someone said, repeater sites for 2m are all over the US. Many sites also offer an 'autopatch'. this allows club members to turn (in essence) the ham radio into a cell phone.
Other radios have more advanced features. I'm using a Kenwood D7. It allows me to plug in a GPS unit and friends at home will be able to track me on various websites dedicated to APRS. cameras are also available that just plug-in and allow anyone the correct receiver to watch your live video. Also available is something called a packet network where you can get connected and read email and other low bandwidth things. It's slow, but it's there.
Darn, sounds like I work in the ARRL marketing department. ;)
bluelip
Mike Coles
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beyond_gravity
May 14, 2003, 1:44 AM
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Satellite Phone
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deadfish
May 14, 2003, 2:05 AM
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Ok...I agree that the ham thing is great in terms of clarity, ability to use repeaters, etc...but the equipment seems relatively expensive to be dragging up a trad climb...my FRS Motorola radios look like they've been through a blender...one is held together with climbing tape. Plus, it isn't enough that you get your ticket. You have to have someone to talk to, and unless you always climb with the same person and that person is also willing to put in the time to get a license, you don't have a bunch of great options other than going without (not recommended). Even if you do break the law and go without a license, you still have to buy two radios since your buddy-du-jour isn't likely to have one, where he can probably pretty easily find a FRS from one of his buddies.
I got my license when I flew hang gliders...it was the thing to do at the time, and many pilots had licenses...but for climbing I use cheap, disposable FRS.
Rgds,
KE6BCL
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bsignorelli
May 14, 2003, 11:10 PM
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Does anyone use a hands free headset with their radios? Or do you just/mainly use the radios at the top of the climbs (as opposed to using it while climbing/belaying)?
Bryan
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downshift
May 15, 2003, 1:30 AM
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I've tried climbing with a headset. Now the work ok for the first little bit (you still have to stop to PTT) but once you start sweating they get really uncomfortable.
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wlderdude
May 18, 2003, 4:22 AM
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Some more things to consider:
Compatibilty with headlamp batteries.
My FSR radios and BD headlamps all take 3 AA batteries. AAA's are lighter, but don't last forever like AA's seem to.
Where will you be climbing with these?
If it overlooks a city (as may popular crags do) a cell phone is a really good idea. Roaming charges are to be considered if you will be comunicating with belays with them, though. If there are many people around, you can usually find somone with a cell phone. Perhaps you can contact them on an FSR radio.
Yes, privacy codes are wonderfull. They are still compatible with the radios you alredy have (Privacy code 0). In fact, you can use them to montier some with the codes, which would not be able to transmit to you. This could be nice if there is mone you want to keep in the loop, but do not want to listen to.
The 2 miles thing is really not a good way to judge the range of your radios. If you are in a vauum and can see someone 2 miles away, maybe. But you will be on cliffs, in the weather and in the trees. Rain makes them just about useless. Just don't kid yourself into thinking they will have a 2 mile range and end up with an epic.
Get something with a lock feature so that the cannel does not get changed when you bump it. This was a problem once when mine got bumped up a channel and my belayer's radio went down one.
What kind of hands free options are avalible? Some you can strap to your arm and you need not even press a buton. You just talk to it. Some require a headset for the voice activation feature to work. Some requre you to still push a buton to talk. Some can use cheapy headsets , while Motorola's require a rather costly specialty plug.
The volume the radio puts out can be a problem, too. I had some once that could not overcome even moderate background noise. Just a little wind would have rendered them useless. I took them back.
I have one with a weatehr band in it. It is nice, but the odds of a back country signal are prety remote.
Good luck finding what you want.
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climb4life
May 18, 2003, 4:44 AM
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sad sad sad
cell phone, radios, walkie talkies, laptop computers, gps, ect ect ect.
yep, this is a sad sad sad day
to be honest with you guys, i have being in nice secluded place to relax and find out that there is a person out there talking on cell phone, or hiking on a trail up to harvard and have a guy intrupet me to ask me how to use gps or be on top of mount sneffles only to hear the sound of the laptop click and clacking away.
i am deaf, and i still can hear them. i know i know, they feel safer with them and all that. but isn't that the point of climbing or getting out? to challenge yourself, to take a few risks? there are other ways to get help without these technologies. i am not talking about sos fire smokes or whitsles. just have common sense, tell somebody where you will be and give date of return or estimate date of return. i feel that too many people are becoming too depedent on these technology.
this was on the outside magazine last year. and it pissed me off cause i built and maintained the trail that goes up to greys and torrey peak. this guy went off the trail ( all my hard work for nothy, sure does makes me feel good) gets caught in rock avalanch. he gets pinned down. okay, yes, he have a cell phone and was able to get help and get out quickly. but what bothers me the most is that he is now called "hero" cause he had a freaking cell phone!!!! sorry, i am getting a little temper tendrum. it's realy annoy to hear things like that. *breaths in and out* now, personally, i have nothy against these technology okay. what bothers me is that people really do take advantage of them and it kinda takes the fun or the meaning of being out there away.
bring it for emergency fine, just don't use it every five freaking minutes.
climb on
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wlderdude
May 18, 2003, 5:19 AM
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Yeah, carrying the office into the wilderness seems wrong.
However, I don't think anyone here is looking for another leash.
And I don't think somone is a hero for getting stuck and calling for help.
Lassie, oh Lassie!
These technologies can make climbing safer and more enjoyable, though. Not being able to communicate with one's belayer is a problem that can best be solved with a little silicone and magnetic radiation. It may save your life someday.
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ryanhos
May 18, 2003, 7:13 AM
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"Ooh, we have all these conveniences, but we shouldn't use them because it's wrong!"
That's not enlightened...that's Amish!
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