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dovaka
Jun 25, 2003, 3:04 AM
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i wish i could of gone today but i bought a car shell to finish my hotrod and i spent most of the day trying to transport it to my house in the 90 degree weather so by the time i got that back i was in no condition to climb but hopefully im going to be able to go to purg on friday what time do you plan on being there until
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robbovius
Jun 25, 2003, 11:35 AM
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whoa! Hotrod? what bodyshell? which frame? what are you using for power? enquiring minds want to know ;-)
too bad you couldn't oin us, even though most of the rock was still damp we had a pretty decent evening, again closing the joint, staying until dark, last ones out, etc etc. It was me and Wannabeaclimber, Wideguy and Jakedatc climbing.
Of course, I came away with two new scrapes, one of them from one of the trees I'd slung around. * in best Strong Bad voice* "yes, I am STILL awesome" ;-)
the best part is that when I rode by CR on my way to work this am, my grigri was right where I'd forgotten it, still conneted to the belay anchor I set up around the tree between "More Money" and "excersize left to the reader". heh.
Oh I should menton that I'm so far pretty happy with my Mad Rock Flashs, I was able to work much smaller edges than with my 5.10 spires, though that's mostly because the MRs fit my feet much more snugly...the stickiness of the rubber, compared to my spires, was hard to judge because of how wet the rock was...on the .7 ledge at the beginning of "It's Late September" I lost a usually-bomber toehold because of the wetness...so I ca't really say whether the mad rubber seems stickier than the C4 stuff I'm used to.
I may very well be going to CR again thursday evening.
Jake, Wide sorry I can't make QQ tonight...
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ejclimb
Jun 25, 2003, 1:53 PM
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not that it really matters but ill be at CR this morning, if anyone decides to skip out on work.
EJ
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robbovius
Jun 25, 2003, 1:57 PM
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evan, too bad, I MIGHT be able to head over during the afternoon (I have it off), but I'm not sure. I was thinking of heading to Purgatory Chasm friday morning/day but I don't know if I'll be able to find anyone to partner, and so might just head to CR friday in the am. I'll post here thursday night when my definite plans are.
is your buddy still interested in my 5.10s?
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wideguy
Jun 25, 2003, 4:20 PM
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hey all, Jake and I are gonna be at QQ tonight after 4:30 or so for anyone who wants to join. Rock will be BONE DRY, temps will be cooling and we should still be able to find some rock that won't burn our skin. Anyone care to join us?
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dovaka
Jun 26, 2003, 3:11 AM
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haha ok noy calm down robbo
it all started as a 79 rs camaro but i ended up having to cut the back half off of the car and weld on a 76 z-28 back end the body is shortened 27" so you actually sit in the back seat and there is no longer a front seat the roof is gone doors are going to be welded shut and hte body lines are going to be totally filled in no door handles or keys totally flat and sleek the front half somewhat resembales a prowler how it comes to a point and is lower then the rest of the car
hte engine is a chevy 383 stroker totally done over roller rockers roller lifter forged alloy pistons custom built nitrous oxide works system the block was bored 30 over and magna fluxed accel super coil msd 8.5mm ignition wires electric water pump 150amp high test alternator turbo 350 transmission but i think i may put in a 700R4 that i have laying around the rear end has been tubbed for some 18" wide tires and i have not decided on a rear end gear ratio yet ultimatly when the car is done its getting painted high gloss black and then air brushed with some pretty sick looking flames
im also buolding a small trailer with matching paint as the rod has pretty much no trunk with the wiring all going back there the battery and the N.O.S. tank
anymore questions let me know and ill answer them for you
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orangekyak
Jun 26, 2003, 4:08 AM
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In reply to: I think Foo is in the Gunks with Jer for a few days.
Yeah, we just got back, and I'm going to spray a bit about it.
Here's what we climbed.
Monday ...
Yum Yum Yab Yum 5.3 ... Swapped leads, Foo first pitch then me. OK climb, kinda boring.
Baby 5.6 ... Redpoint for me. Offwidth on pitch one, dirty roofs on p2.
Finger Locks or Cedar Box 5.5 ... Foo onsight, me redpoint. 1 pitch finger crack.
Tuesday ...
Disneyland 5.6 ... I strung it together as one pitch, onsight. Fun moves , awkward mantles.
Layback 5.5 ... Foo onsight, only did the first pitch (crux). Nice lead by Foo (PG protection rating).
This is when it was too fricken hot to climb so we cruised down to the swimming hole and chilled out. Good overwater bouldering about 10 feet tall, slippery holds. We did our share of topping out and falling down.
Horseman 5.5 ... Onsight, as one pitch. Going to the gunks midweek is like going to a candy store while school is in session. This climb is fun.
Trashcan Overhang 5.hardashell ... We TR'd this with a bunch of other foolish wannabes. Wicked fun.
Wednesday ...
High Exposure 5.6 ... onsight, as fun and classic as advertised.
back to the swimming hole. more overwater bouldering and falling and hanging out.
The climbing was awesoem but the highlight of the trip was all the cool folks we met and climbed with. we hung out for a couple days with a couple kids from chicago who showed up with their harnesses and shoes but no gear. they had been to new jersey to see the dead show and we chilled with them quite a bit. They led climbs right behind us, clipping our gear and rapping with us. Shout out to Al and Brian, when they get on here. As I write this they're probably still in Pennsylvania on their way home.
All in all it was a good trip, eh foo?
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foograbbinstone
Jun 26, 2003, 6:13 AM
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I'm bummed I just finished a reply to Jeremy's post and something went terribley wrong (something about expired page)
Allright for the second time!! :x
HighhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhEEEEEEEEEEeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!!!!
Jeremy your the man,that was an awesome climbing roadtrip.Thank you much for setting this whole thing up and getting me out on my first trip to the Gunks. For any of you that havn't been,let me lend my voice to those who say it's a must climb area. I'm a Believer!!!!! Midweek was the best,there were climbs everywhere screaming (hey over here climb me).Jeremy did some great leads daily with High E as the capper.That was such a sweet climb and Jeremy owned it start to finish.
The people we met were great. Alan and Brian Representing Chi-Town....
hard climbers , good dudes. We hit it off right from the start!!!Zach and his Buddy(fergot his name all ready ) all got together monday night and had a serious feast ............OOOhh my so stuffed!!!!!
Drinking YingLings
We climbed with Alan and Brian for the rest our time there.We were laughing constantly.Going down to the waterhole to cool off and do alil bouldering over the water. Excellent spot to beat the heat!!!
Mountain Bistro is chill spot too!!
All in all Orange awesome trip bro.............*****
foo
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robbovius
Jun 26, 2003, 11:29 AM
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OKyak, Foo, sounds kewl! did you guys camp or hotel it? of course now all my crappy CR spray is revealed for the lame noob sheisse it is ;-)
Jake, WideG, how was QQ last night? how much of a great time did I miss?
I love it when people talk climbing, yeah baby!
Dovaka, the rod sounds mint!!! I am impressed that it's NOT another "catalog" early ford product, or resurrected muscklekar ;-) there are many cruise nights around I'm sure you know, be great to see the car out when it's done.
anyhow, I want to know definitely who might be into doing some climbing at Purgatory Chasm tomorrow during the afternoon (had to edit the time, just got reminded about daughters' orthodontics apts). otherwise I'm just going to head over to CR and see who's around.
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wideguy
Jun 26, 2003, 1:38 PM
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Jer and Foo, wow sounds awesome. someday whe i have the skills to hack that I'll put that on my must climb list. Sounds like a blast.
Rob, I don't know about Jake but I had fun. Started over on C Wall doing the flake route from the right side, I think. I'm a little unsure though so maybe Jake knows better. Looking at the Boston Rocks online I think that was it, so it runs 5.4 or 5.5. Nice to have something I could cruise a couple times. Jake also treated his friend to her first rap, which went well. Then we moved over to the far right side where there's this easy ladder corner I usually warm up on so she could get a couple comfortable runs in and Jake could work the traverse I've been playing with. Of course he took the low route I can't even begin to finish, but we screwed around a while there anyway. Next time you'll have to come along. pick a night, any night.
Oh, and like you said, posting this makes me feel like the ultimate noob poser :( Oh well.
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tcollins
Jun 26, 2003, 2:05 PM
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Oy boys, glad you back. Sounds like a good trip. How did High E feel? Is she sandbagged like the rest or is it rather straightforward?
Mid week in the Gunks, bastards :twisted: . Oh well, work was fine, thanks for asking :lol:
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jumaringjeff
Jun 26, 2003, 2:58 PM
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Sweet dudes. Are ya up for something on Sunday? I want to bring a friend out who's never been. Who's in?
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orangekyak
Jun 26, 2003, 3:00 PM
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In reply to: Oy boys, glad you back. Sounds like a good trip. How did High E feel? Is she sandbagged like the rest or is it rather straightforward? Mid week in the Gunks, bastards :twisted: . Oh well, work was fine, thanks for asking :lol:
You know TD, I've been doing 95% trad this season and I have to say that I no longer feel that Gunks grades are really sandbagged. I just think that's the way that the numbers are supposed to be and that everywhere else has it screwed up.
You're question of whether it was "straightforward" is a good one. I think that's what makes Gunks numbers different - a lot of climbs with low numbers have really awkward moves on them. I've found that if you just commit to the move and pull through it, you rarely feel like you've pulled harder than the grade.
But I also think it's the "testpiece" mentality that isn't used by newer climbers. Like the kid we saw do his first gear lead - a 5.5 - aparently he's only been climbing for a few weeks. Later in the day he got on "Sixish," a 5.4+ with notoriously strange moves and protection. When the EMTs were splinting his two broken ankles after he whipped 30 feet down and into the wall, they asked him why he wasn't placing much gear. He answered that he was pumped out so he didn't want to waste energy placing. And besides, he said, "I climb 5.10 in the gym."
A testpiece, for readers who aren't familiar with it (because I know TD is), is a climb that is considered to be the standard for a given difficulty level for a particular climbing area. So if you can climb the testpiece, you should be able to climb the other routes in the area of the same grade, and perhaps should be considering harder climbs, too.
For you college rock folks, Exercise Left to the Reader is a solid 5.9 finger crack. If you can redpoint that route you will should find success on other 5.9s. I'd go so far as to suggest that it's a testpiece for Massachusetts 5.9s, from what I've seen. I say so because it requires thin face climbing and solid crack technique, all with good footwork. I can think of a 5.9 I've done in Mass. that is harder, but it doesn't really represent a spectrum of climbing technique (other than roped bouldering - it should be a v1).
Ok, I'm done rambling.
Are you happy TD? I gave you something to read at work.
:P
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tcollins
Jun 26, 2003, 3:37 PM
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Ahh thanks man. Bummer about the guy, but damn he should have know better. Glad you two had fun, sorry I missed it. I'll catch up with you later.
TD
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robbovius
Jun 26, 2003, 5:44 PM
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Jer, if I interpret what you wrote correctly, the routes have low numbers becasue the holds are relatively big and plentiful or easy to hold on to, but because of their placement, are awkward to get to from one to the other, right?
also - because this discussion arose several pages back when I'd mentioned I'd "flashed" Excersize Left to the Reader - doesn't redpointing something require placement of Pro? (tha'ts what the definition intheglossary hereabouts says) Or can you toprope a route and redpoint?
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tcollins
Jun 26, 2003, 5:50 PM
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My understanding is that a redpoint is a clean climb after you have tried and failed at the climb. IE you have first hand experience and beta. once you throw a TR on it, all the 'terms' kinda go out the window, since all the terms came about from people leading climbs and trying to determine how well they led it. If the gear is pre placed, ie trad or QDs on the climb, I think it becomes a pinkpoint. All rather silly. Climb it till you feel you have climbed it well enough to satisfy yourself and met you own definition of having climbed it well. Then climb it again. It is after all about having fun, not getting a report card. Knowing you guys, I have a feeling you all think somewhat along the same lines I do. Climb well climbah.
TD
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robbovius
Jun 26, 2003, 6:10 PM
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TD, yeah, too much damn jargon, best not confuse myself.
it's fun to try harder stuff though, I'll tell ya, when I finally completed "Excersize..." I was so psyched I thought my head was gonna explode.
I'll stick with, "I climbed it all the way up! woo hoo!!!"
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wideguy
Jun 26, 2003, 6:22 PM
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Rob, you should do what I do. Just suck out loud as a climber and then whenever you spray people will be too busy trying not to laugh to critique your terminology. 8) :lol:
Works for me so far...
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tcollins
Jun 26, 2003, 6:32 PM
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Chad, you stealing my system? :lol:
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tcollins
Jun 26, 2003, 7:15 PM
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Ahh it's OK Chad you can have it. I can switch over to my plan B. "I'm not here to show you how to climb, I'm just around for entertainment purposes." :lol: :lol:
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orangekyak
Jun 26, 2003, 8:53 PM
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In reply to: Jer, if I interpret what you wrote correctly, the routes have low numbers becasue the holds are relatively big and plentiful or easy to hold on to, but because of their placement, are awkward to get to from one to the other, right?
There are a number of notorious factors in ratings. Sometimes at the gunks a route will involve an awkward move that you wouldn't find on a route of the same grade at many other crags. The holds are typically positive on the lower numbers, which is one of the reasons I find the ratings there to be pretty solid.
I read in "Yankee Rock and Ice," by Guy and Laura Waterman, that certain folks might have sandbagged a litttle back in the day, intentionally trying to hinder the progression of certain other folks. Is that true? I dunno.
My point about testpieces is that they are a good way to make sure you don't get in over your head (as is other exercises of common sense and good judgement). This is when grades start to matter - when you are looking for a climb to lead and you don't particularly want to break both of your ankles.
In reply to: also - because this discussion arose several pages back when I'd mentioned I'd "flashed" Excersize Left to the Reader - doesn't redpointing something require placement of Pro? (tha'ts what the definition intheglossary hereabouts says) Or can you toprope a route and redpoint?
The glossary here is a bit oversimplified on this matter. you do not have to place pro to get a redpoint. a redpoint is the result of completing a climb free of all aid, aka "free climbing." You are free climbing when you are leading (sport or trad) or when you are free soloing, without pro - either way, a redpoint is climbing without falling or using aid. Minor technicality but the important thing is the climbing, not the pro.
Toproping is considered aid, regardless of whether or not you weight the rope. More importantly it is considered safe, and fun, so it should be practiced with regularity. I've read that John Gill is a fan of TR, even on low climbs.
Onsight and flash are merely types of redpoints.
I agree that this stuff is mostly jargon. It shouldn't matter to you unless you want it to. And even then, you should go get a beer and make it matter less.
Sorry to beat the dead horse. One of the things I enjoy about climbing is looking at a section of rock - call it a route - and deciding that I'm going to climb it as it is - without any aid - and then climbing it. I think it's ok to want to redpoint or onsight or flash, as long as I don't impose it upon others. I'm going to go get a beer now.
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dovaka
Jun 27, 2003, 4:12 AM
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yea i hate the order kit bolt on this frame and your done crap when this is done it actually will be 3 different cars welded together and a completly custom hand made fiberglass front end i had to build somehting that wasnt a ac cobra rip off or a stock muscle car with some nice paint on it there nice but its been done and dont worry when this is all done im going to drive it everywhere just to show it off also let me know what time you plan on being at purg tomorrow and ill let you know if i an make it or not
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robbovius
Jun 27, 2003, 4:56 PM
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Jeremy, thanks for the clarification.
Patrick, turns out I have parenting stuff I have to take care of this afternoon which wouldn't get me to purgatory until the mid/late afternoon, if I do go. If so, I probably wouldn't get there until 5 or later, something like that (taking my son to see the hulk this afternoon)
let me know...
anybody else wanna brave the heat and git up at purg?
*edit*6:33 PM
oh well, "The Hulk" was wicker kewl! but I dind't get home until about 15 minuites ago, hope nobody went to Purg lookin' for me...if so, sorry! I'm probably going to be at CR tomorrow from 10 - 2 about and then sunday late afternoon as well...
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dovaka
Jun 27, 2003, 11:27 PM
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nope it was just to hot for me to go today but it is still nice and cool in a few certain caves at purg there may actually still be ice at the bottom of one ill have to check next time im there
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