|
rwaltermyer
Jul 2, 2003, 12:34 PM
Post #1 of 5
(3807 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 10, 2001
Posts: 1059
|
TO answer Glen's question regarding accuracy...
I've heard that who ever wrote the guide most of been an amazing crack climber, b/c all the crack ratings are a graded a grade or two easier than they actually are.
For example, I was climbing one day and saw a guy who leads 11s on trad regularly at the gunks, well he was hangdogging was supposed to be a 9. So at least, the "featherbagging" on cracks is his opinion.
r a n d y
PS: Glen, I knew you'd somehow fit the whipper into a post today. :) ;)
|
|
|
|
|
roclimb
Jul 2, 2003, 4:02 PM
Post #2 of 5
(3806 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 27, 2001
Posts: 452
|
Rich Pleiss (the guy who did the guide) is a real good climber. I think route grades for stuff like Stump Crack are right on, but some others seem a little sandbaged. I just had a struggle yesterday pulling off one of Bob D's routes there, but the grade seemed right on. Some of the cracks may be a little sandbaged but the bolted stuff seems right. Hugh Herr put up some difficult crack lines at Stoney and at the time he was doing 5.12x rated stuff.
~Rob
|
|
|
|
|
bobd1953
Jul 2, 2003, 5:29 PM
Post #3 of 5
(3806 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 3941
|
In reply to: I just had a struggle yesterday pulling off one of Bob D's routes there, but the grade seemed right on.
Hey Rob, don't feel bad, I had a struggle putting those routes in. The nature of the rock (steep) and short cliffs might have something to do with the ratings! As Hugh (Herr) said about Stoney Ridge: The clock starts ticking as soon as you touch the rock! Good routes on good rock with a big pump factor!
|
|
|
|
|
rwaltermyer
Jul 2, 2003, 5:56 PM
Post #4 of 5
(3806 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 10, 2001
Posts: 1059
|
In reply to: As Hugh (Herr) said about Stoney Ridge: The clock starts ticking as soon as you touch the rock! Good routes on good rock with a big pump factor!
Sounds like a familiar tone---> Birdsboro is the same way!
|
|
|
|
|
roclimb
Jul 2, 2003, 9:52 PM
Post #5 of 5
(3806 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 27, 2001
Posts: 452
|
Thats a good point Bob,
The rock is short. If you figure that in the grades seem right on some of the cracks. I took a photo of those two routes. I will send it out to ya as soon as I process them.
~Rob
|
|
|
|
|
|
