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renobdarb
Jul 24, 2003, 12:45 AM
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In reply to: What do you consider runout???
The Needles in the Black Hills of South Dakota... anyone who has climbed there knows what i'm talking about... scary as s**t!!!
-brad
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climbhigher
Aug 6, 2003, 2:18 AM
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When i feel scared and all shaky inside and say to myself holy shit i better put a piece in before i die!!! otherwise it's just the distance between Pro. Keep it solid and don't rely on one piece when there's a chance of hitting the ground or a ledge if your pro blows. That's my 2 cents. Cheers.
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redpoint73
Aug 6, 2003, 2:25 AM
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Seems that runout ratings are given very conservatively to slab routes. I've done a few near or full rope length (60m, no less!) pitches with no gear. But they were not considered runout by the guidebooks. What the hell???
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alpinerockfiend
Aug 6, 2003, 1:38 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: What do you consider runout??? The Needles in the Black Hills of South Dakota... anyone who has climbed there knows what i'm talking about... scary as s**t!!!
I think the Needles and many other areas in the US were developed conservatively, with all bolts placed on lead. Conservative bolt placements lead to conservation with the "R" rating. In the City of Rocks, it's pretty standard to have 40+ feet of 5.6-7 terrain at the top of a harder route with no pro at all. None of these routes are given "R" ratings, and the runouts are rarely mentioned. But travel to a rap-bolted sport area such as Sinks Canyon or Wild Iris and a route that is a bit sporty between placements is given an "R".
An interesting side note: Paul Piana has written a few guidebooks in his day. One of his first was Touch the Sky, a guide to the Needles in SD. In this guide, he praises the traditional ethic in which the area was developed and claims that anyone who rap-bolts risks serious harm from the local climbers and will most definitely see their route chopped. Years later, he wrote Sport Climbs of Sinks Canyon, a guide to the classic sport area near Lander, WY. In his section on route development, he states that all routes should be rap-bolted and cleaned with the utmost care! An interesting fellow, indeed. But......
It's all about the character of the area.
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labmonkey
Aug 6, 2003, 1:48 PM
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When you lookd down at your last pro, and your boys retreat to somewhere around you esophagus, that's runout, IMHO.
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rrrADAM
Aug 6, 2003, 1:59 PM
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>20' between pieces on hard stuff.
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texasclimber
Aug 6, 2003, 2:10 PM
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In reply to: It totaly depends on the type of and dificulty of the climbing as well as how clean the falls are. A 10 foot runout over a nasty ankle breaker ledge wit hard thin moves is more run out than 40ft of easy slab or 20 ft of overhanging juggy face with a clean fall.
So true. In general though, I think run out is if your feet are way above the last bolt (if sport climbing) and you say to yourself that there should be another bolt where your feet are. Potrero Chico taught me about run out! :shock:
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alpinerock
Aug 8, 2003, 2:41 AM
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If the fall is X or R rated I consider it too runout, on easy stuff I can go 30 ft without feeling scared, but once I get into 9's it scares the heck out of me.
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mreardon
Aug 8, 2003, 5:42 PM
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Runout is the same as highball bouldering, it all depends on your comfort level and the pain potential.
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veggieclimber
Aug 8, 2003, 6:04 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: What do you consider runout??? The Needles in the Black Hills of South Dakota... anyone who has climbed there knows what i'm talking about... scary as s**t!!! -brad
No shit, I think your definition of runout changes with where you climb too. I've been climbing the old stuff in the Black Hills all summer. Went up to Spearfish canyon with my climbing partner's friends, there was ten feet between two bolts and they said, "This is a little runout". We just looked at each other because that is average if not short between bolts at Rushmore and needles. All depends on what you have climbed before.
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thegreytradster
Aug 8, 2003, 10:04 PM
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When I was in my 20's runout was "I might not pull this off, and if I don't I'll die" Later in life it became "There's a small possibility I might not pull this off and it'll hurt for a loooonnnng time"
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triznut
Aug 8, 2003, 10:30 PM
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In reply to: anytime the corner is twisted off my baggy I have definetly "run out"
:lol: :lol: :lol:
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venezuela
Aug 16, 2003, 8:03 PM
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I didn't read the other three pages of the thread, 'cause I'm just about to leave home....
to my understanding, a run-out is when a fall has a very high probability of resulting on a physical injury...this means that protection 20 feet apart, but with a "clean" fall is not a run-out. I believe that when a route has a run-out it's given an R on it's grade. i.e: 5.8r.
but, I'm not 100% sure....when I get back, I'll read the whole thread. If I'm wrong, please point it out.
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alwaysforward
Aug 17, 2003, 2:16 AM
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Dude, i think the question was how far do YOU have to be above a bolt before you're gripped. I think most posters are aware of 'R'.
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crackaddict
Aug 17, 2003, 2:50 AM
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When you hit that "pucker point!" After your last piece is below your feet.
So when ever that is. That is when you can say its run out.
Or after you climbed 10' past your last piece and you are sketching. You reach for that only piece that will work here. But then realized that you have used it already. You look up and realize that your next chance for pro is 15 more feet.
What do you do?
Run it out!
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adeptus
Aug 17, 2003, 7:43 AM
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On slabs runout would be one piece per pitch, unless you can hit a ledge in a fall. I find that even on slabs near my limit I don't mind to do runouts, because a fall would be more like a tumble down the rock rather that a powerful shockload like on vertical climbs.
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dbrayack
Aug 17, 2003, 12:22 PM
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Oh, its run out whenever I realize that I have to change my depends
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rocknut1
Aug 19, 2003, 3:52 AM
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15 feet , unless the holds are good. (or your only 12 feet above the ground.)
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ptone
Aug 19, 2003, 5:34 AM
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I guess I blend the risk factor with the head factor.
But that all boils back to risk...if your head goes, your body might soon follow!
It's runout for me if a fall will result in injury no matter what the belayer does.
It's runout too if when I look down and can't make out my last piece way below I get gripped, and suddenly find vision tunnelling, with my heart pounding loud in my ears and my death grip feeling weak as a kitten...leaning in, forehead on the rock, breathe, in through the nose, out through the mouth...
:wink:
p
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joegoesup
Aug 19, 2003, 11:23 AM
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For me it is anything that could result in a 30 ft fall or more.
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adamtd
Sep 6, 2003, 4:55 AM
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The term run-out is technically teh distance between two pieces of pro. When a climb is run-out, it usually mean that teh pro is spaced out pretty far apart. I've found that it all depends on teh consequences of teh fall. At Stoen Mt., NC, it's common for bolts to be 40' apart, but a fall there is nothing more than sliding down a slab with little consequence. On a shelfy wall where you're likely to deck out on a ledge, 5 feet might be runout. it's subjective. My partner says I run it out all the time, but he places his pro every six feet, which is over kill for me.
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herm
Sep 7, 2003, 6:22 AM
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Run out is a state of mind 8)
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onbelay_osu
Sep 8, 2003, 8:02 PM
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well in oklahoma runout RN=normal runout is about 5-11' and R= 11'-20' but the best is RX which is a 2 pitch sport climb ~300ft. with 4 bolts and two of them are for your belay!!!!!!! :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: CRAZY
check out Quartz mtn. it is on S wall
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sharpender
Sep 8, 2003, 8:23 PM
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I don't know the name and I've never done the route, but I understand there is a face climb at the Needles in CA that goes a 60 meter pitch with out a single piece of pro to the belay. That's run out! 8)
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jtreelizard
Sep 8, 2003, 8:36 PM
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When I start to whimper or cry, it indicates that I have most likely run it out.
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