|
justuspr
Aug 17, 2003, 7:38 PM
Post #1 of 12
(1964 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 4, 2003
Posts: 153
|
I have a 60m Maxim rope, about 1.5 years old, haven't climbed on it much the last 8 months or so (pregnant wife/ partner, and now a new baby) So we went out yesterday for a few hours and the rope kept twisting. I pulled it through and tried to get all the twists out 4 times, but each time I would wiehgt it, it would twist again. Any one have any ideas as to why this is happening and how I can stop it from happening.
Oh and NO I did not coil it, its flaked into my rope bag and has been since I got it.
Thanks
|
|
|
|
|
jughead
Aug 17, 2003, 9:02 PM
Post #2 of 12
(1964 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 23, 2002
Posts: 292
|
same thing happens to me and my partner i have a mammut flash 60m he has a beal galaxy 50m i think that its because of the way the ropes threads are twisted and when you ptu your weight on it it starts to untwist thats my guess anyway
|
|
|
|
|
alpnclmbr1
Aug 17, 2003, 9:17 PM
Post #3 of 12
(1964 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 10, 2002
Posts: 3060
|
If you haven't used it many times the twists are most likely from how you uncoiled from the factory coil. With a new rope you want to untie it to the point that it forms a big coil, place both arms in it and roll the rope out like a garden hose.
At this point find a big cliff to hang it off full length and let it straighten itself out.
|
|
|
|
|
addiroids
Aug 17, 2003, 9:38 PM
Post #4 of 12
(1964 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 11, 2001
Posts: 1046
|
Another thing that might help, is not tying in on the ground until the leader pulls up the rope. Yeah, you do have to tie a stopper knot while belaying for safety, and watch it while he is up roping, but it helps.
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
|
|
|
|
|
apollodorus
Aug 18, 2003, 12:18 AM
Post #5 of 12
(1964 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
|
Alpnclmbr1 has the answer. At the factory, the rope is wound onto a spool, then slipped off the end and knotted. You MUST unwind the rope before you use it, or even moderate loading can permanently kink and twist it. If you just pull one end off the factory coil, you will leave about 50 twists in the rope. Loading the rope with these twists forces the fibers together unnaturally, fixing the twists and kinks.
I don't know about other mfgrs, but Mammut is very high quality stuff, they've been making ropes as long/longer than anyone, and they use a balanced weave in both the core and the sheath to eliminate twist. If you unwind a Mammut rope before using it, it will not twist under load.
|
|
|
|
|
justuspr
Aug 18, 2003, 3:50 AM
Post #6 of 12
(1964 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 4, 2003
Posts: 153
|
Thanks for all the replies... so is it permanently twisted or will hanging it fix it? If it is permanently twisted does that decrease it's strength or anything or is it just anoying?
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
Aug 18, 2003, 3:53 PM
Post #7 of 12
(1964 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
i would say try to untwist it. or even better, hang it from a high position and leave unweighted (but make sure the sund doesnt get to it).
as for the strength reduction, i havent a clue, but twist sure are annoying.
btw, what kind of belay device are you using??? figure8 really twists the rope.
|
|
|
|
|
mike_ok
Aug 18, 2003, 3:58 PM
Post #8 of 12
(1964 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 21, 2003
Posts: 345
|
When I got my newest Blue Water, someone on this site gave me the idea of tying it around a tree (pole, whatever) and walking the distance of the rope to unkink factory kinks. Worked perfectly, and lets you fix the rope when you leave on the flatlands and only get to the crags on the weekends at best.
|
|
|
|
|
maculated
Aug 18, 2003, 3:58 PM
Post #9 of 12
(1964 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 23, 2001
Posts: 6179
|
I always obsessively flake out new ropes. Those things go through my hands easily fifty times before they every see rock. That works mighty nice. :)
|
|
|
|
|
alpnclmbr1
Aug 18, 2003, 4:54 PM
Post #10 of 12
(1964 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 10, 2002
Posts: 3060
|
In reply to: Thanks for all the replies... so is it permanently twisted or will hanging it fix it? If it is permanently twisted does that decrease it's strength or anything or is it just anoying?
I have never seen a permanently twisted rope.
I am sure that being twisted will not weaken the rope significantly.
As addiroid said everytime you lead a sport route, untie and let the rope hang just off the ground, then pull it and let the far end spin out also. It is good to pull it from the lead end fairly often as this will let you change then end you lead the next route on, which is good for your rope anyway.
Rappelling single line, full length or a regular rap with a atc type device will help. Munters or fig 8's will twist your rope.
|
|
|
|
|
rrrADAM
Aug 18, 2003, 4:59 PM
Post #11 of 12
(1964 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553
|
The core is twisted, and the sheath is not. When you load the rope, the core wants to unwind to allow for elongation, as this is one things that adds to the dynamic action of the rope. This is how it was explained to me.
All of my ropes get twisted easily till after I do a few double rope rappels... This allows for a balance to be achieved between the sheath and the core.
Works for me. :wink:
|
|
|
|
|
pehperboy
Aug 19, 2003, 12:01 AM
Post #12 of 12
(1964 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 21, 2003
Posts: 871
|
I was told to find a bridge or balcony, something high enough to let the full rope out, and tie about 20 pounds to the end. Just let it dangle and untwist as it hangs. That's about the best way. You can flake it out, whipping it in parts with your wrist, but that will only partially solve the problem. Mine was twisted after storing it too long in a butterfly coil.
And if you can do the same with a new rope, using a bridge or balcony , so much the better. At the very least uncoil it as described and don't use it until it's flaked out properly to remove factory coils.
|
|
|
|
|
|
