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campo
Feb 19, 2004, 4:38 AM
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Though it may be hard to put a finger on it, I was wondering what peoples opinions are concerning the best overall SPORT climbing area in the United States (I know it is hard, when you take in all the variables). Take into account crowds, quality and quantity of routes, etc... My personal favorite is Rumney, but I am not all that well traveled.
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campo
Feb 19, 2004, 4:45 AM
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Notice my great spelling..figures both my parents were english professors! :lol:
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sbclimber
Feb 19, 2004, 4:49 AM
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probably too tough to pick one.
I'm sure you will hear Smith Rock, Owens River Gorge, Rifle, The Red River Gorge, Rumney, MAYBE Red Rocks.
Virgin River Gorge maybe if you are a crazy hardman.
Having been to Smith, Owens, Rifle, and Red Rocks, I would say for just sport I LOVE Owens River Gorge. I've never had a problem with crowds, and one side of the gorge is always in the sun/shade (depending on how hot it is, follow the sun or the shade all day)
also sooo many routes within walking distance of eachother.
Mt. Williamson is nice to, but maybe not so much on a national scale.
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dynoguy
Feb 19, 2004, 4:54 AM
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Of course I have to vote for Smith because it has become my second home
But I give a STRONG second to the RED
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drkodos
Feb 19, 2004, 5:08 AM
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Red River Gorge
New River Gorge
[violet]Wild Iris[/violet]
Rifle
[indigo]Rumney[/indigo]
[brown]Mt Charleston[/brown]
Maple Canyon
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couloir
Feb 19, 2004, 5:08 AM
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Isn't "Best Sport Climbing Area" just an oxymoron. Well I would have to vote for Yosemite or Sam's Throne, because there's so many trad routes between the sport routes.
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crankenstein
Feb 19, 2004, 5:29 AM
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Depends on what you want out of a sport climbing area. If you want sheer difficulty then Rifle gets my vote. But if aesthetics are important and you like more moderate difficulty then I vote for City of Rocks. I'm surprised that no one else mentioned it. It's one of the most beautiful areas and the variety can't be beat, especially if you do trad also. Another noteworthy place in the aesthetics category would have to be Mt. Lemmon. I guess I could also throw in a sentimental favorite that is not well known, that being Reimer's Ranch in Texas.
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kalcario
Feb 19, 2004, 6:01 AM
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Gorges du Rive Rouge, Kentucky
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cfnubbler
Feb 19, 2004, 3:41 PM
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The New.
Rifle.
The Red.
Smith is contention too, though Smith style climbing is not really "En vogue" these days.
I know this will stir up all sorts of Eastern sporto insecurity, but as an eastern climber who's climbed at all of the above areas, I can safely say Rumney doesn't deserve to be mentioned in the same breath as these others. Popularity and hype aside, it's not even the best sport climbing in New England.
On the national scene, Rumney is a good 2nd tier area with one legitimately great crag (Waimea). But put Waimea at any of the above areas and it would be a single good wall in a sea of great climbing.
Sorry is that ruffles feathers, but that's the way I see it.
-Nubbler
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bighigaz
Feb 19, 2004, 3:45 PM
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Here's one for AZ: MT. LEMMON is definately up there with the best. Several thousand routes, many within a mile from the road, and plenty of undeveloped potential.
Though Lemmon is MY personal favorite, there is SOOOOO much more out there... all I can say is TRAVEL, TRAVEL, TRAVEL!!! (Oh, and Climb, Climb, Climb, of course!)
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maracas
Feb 19, 2004, 3:48 PM
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I have only been to Red Rocks and Rifle from that list, and I prefer Red Rocks.
A little question, if I was a wuss and would like to climb "comfortably placed bolts" sport 5.10 to 5.12a, would that change the order?
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socalbolter
Feb 19, 2004, 4:01 PM
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my vote would be for the red river gorge if only one area could be picked.
many of the others listed above would be close seconds though, with the exception of smith rocks. historical significance aside, smith is no where near the caliber of the other areas nor does it have the diversity.
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campo
Feb 19, 2004, 4:08 PM
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Just out of curiosity, what is the other sport climbing area in New England that beats Rumney. Ive been keeping my ears open, and as far as I know, there arent any other areas that offer the quality and quantity of routes that Rumney does. Anyone know of any other New England Sport Climbing areas?
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rrrADAM
Feb 19, 2004, 4:09 PM
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Of all the places I have been (climbed in more than 10 states so far), Shelf Road in Colorado. I just love that place.
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olderic
Feb 19, 2004, 4:19 PM
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In reply to: Just out of curiosity, what is the other sport climbing area in New England that beats Rumney. Ive been keeping my ears open, and as far as I know, there arent any other areas that offer the quality and quantity of routes that Rumney does. Anyone know of any other New England Sport Climbing areas?
I could tell you - but I'd have to kill you....
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flagpolewizard
Feb 19, 2004, 4:39 PM
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unless I just missed it, how did no one mention joshua tree, just for the sheer volume of climbs it has, I doubt there are many areas, if any at all that can match the number of quality climbs, if you had a whole life time to climb I still don't think you could get it all done
I mean, yeah, jt sucks, stay away, its really hot and there are mean people there, climber beware, just stay away, packs of rabid coyotes ate someone last week, oh the horror of jt
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rrrADAM
Feb 19, 2004, 4:43 PM
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In reply to: unless I just missed it, how did no one mention joshua tree, just for the sheer volume of climbs it has, I doubt there are many areas, if any at all that can match the number of quality climbs, if you had a whole life time to climb I still don't think you could get it all done I mean, yeah, jt sucks, stay away, its really hot and there are mean people there, climber beware, just stay away, packs of rabid coyotes ate someone last week, oh the horror of jt
Because while JTree has some "sport climbs", it is mainly a Trad Area and now a Bouldering Area also, and the thread asked for the best "sport climbing area". Even many of the bolt protected climbs at JTree are not "sport". There are over 3,000 Trad routes in Jtree, and probably less than 200 true sport climbs, and that is a large estimation I think.
Just like Tuolumne is a Trad Area, but does have some "sport climbs"... It is not a Sport Area.
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jkarns
Feb 19, 2004, 4:46 PM
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Just because Smith is not trendy should not take it out of the running. Personally I absolutely love the climbing there. There are endless sport routes with a lot of diversity. There just aren't many (any) super steep jugfests, like everyone seems to be after. There are loads of technical, thoughtful, precision-oriented climbs at a decent range of angles with plenty more room for development if anyone ever gets around to it.
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cfnubbler
Feb 19, 2004, 4:48 PM
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In reply to: Ive been keeping my ears open, and as far as I know, there arent any other areas that offer the quality and quantity of routes that Rumney does.
Quantity, no. Quality, yup. Look harder. There are published guidebooks which feature at least a couple New England sport areas that I prefer to Rumney. But then I prefer granite and its metamorphosed relatives to schist any day.
As for J-Tree, I wouldn't ever go there for a sport climbing trip. Don't get me wrong, I love the place, but it's the trad that put it on the map, not the relative handful of clip-ups.
-Nubbler
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miuralover
Feb 19, 2004, 5:23 PM
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In reply to: Just because Smith is not trendy should not take it out of the running. Personally I absolutely love the climbing there. There are endless sport routes with a lot of diversity. There just aren't many (any) super steep jugfests, like everyone seems to be after. There are loads of technical, thoughtful, precision-oriented climbs at a decent range of angles with plenty more room for development if anyone ever gets around to it.
I agree, this place has great sport routes at all grades. Vomit Launch (11b), Heinous Cling (12c), Agro Monkey (13b), Oxygen (13b, best route there)... the list goes on and on.
I've climbed in Red River Gorge (tons of steep routes), Rifle (tons of fun/tricky hard routes), Maple (soft grades, skin friendly, lots of climbing), Red Rocks (soft grades, fun routes) and several other places. In my opinion Rifle was the most fun so far, but I still have tons of places to go to. Wild Iris next!!!
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easyclimber
Feb 20, 2004, 4:47 AM
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Well i am a beginner so i cant say yo much. I have been to smith. it is fun there. I think any where is a great place to climb as long as you enjoy it.
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din
Feb 20, 2004, 4:55 AM
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rockreation.
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dynamicpanda
Feb 27, 2004, 4:13 AM
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I've never been, but Obed and Foster Falls in Tennesse are supposedly really good. Im not sure if you can really count the New River Gorge as a sport crag, but I love the sport climbs that I have done there.
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fredbob
Feb 27, 2004, 4:45 AM
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For sport climbing, few places beat Rifle, steep, steep, technical, pumpy and physical; everything good sport climbing should be.
Smith is too slabby to be the best; and
Owens doesn't really have any hard stuff that isn't crimpy vertical stuff.
Red Rocks is too much fluff (most routes are way over-rated), but certainly fun.
Shelf Road is nice, but a bit chossy and not nearly steep enough.
And Josh? (You must be kidding!) Though it does actually have hundreds of sport routes now, most are not super steep and they are scattered all about amongst 6,000 trad routes. But, there are some sport routes there that are stellar and unlike most areas, the routes actually involve doing hard moves (not just lots of easy stuff without a rest).
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yevquest
Feb 27, 2004, 5:10 AM
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Having climbed at most of the major sport climbing areas around the country, I think the answer is...it depends on what grades you're interested in and what grades your friends/partners want.
Some areas (Rifle) really don't have much in the way of easier routes while other areas have a good mix of hard and moderate routes throughout the areas.
Best Easy sport routes: Rumney, hands down. Lots of them, well bolted, and fairly thought provoking. The roadside areas can be crowded but there's lots of other places all over Rattlesnake Mtn. A good area for a mixed bag of grades.
Best 10's and easy 11's A random shout out goes to Horseshoe canyon in Arkansas. I was very pleasantly suprised at the quality of many of the moderate routes there. The harder routes weren't that great (feast wall excepted) but the 10's and easy 11's are excellent.
Best easy 12's. The Red. Great steep routes as well as some suprisingly technical routes hidden here and there.
Best hard routes: Rifle. period.
Best Multipitch: the Potrero. Some of the single pitch stuff is good too (Mileski Wall, Surf Bowl)
The New has some great routes but they're too spread out. Summersville has a great crag (the Coliseum) but the rest is ho-hum.
Charleston is beautful, a wild escape considering it's so close to Vegas but there was just too much glue and drilled pockets for me to put it on the list.
One area that I haven't been to is Maple so I can't comment on that. Maybe this summer I'll make it out there.
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