|
kman
Mar 27, 2002, 11:11 AM
Post #1 of 15
(11116 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 16, 2001
Posts: 2561
|
This question is for any one who has done trad on basalt.
How good are placements in this type of rock? Is basalt weak or strong? Good rock / bad rock?
|
|
|
|
|
kman
Mar 27, 2002, 11:13 AM
Post #2 of 15
(11116 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 16, 2001
Posts: 2561
|
Should have put this in the trad forum I guess. Oh well.
|
|
|
|
|
rrrADAM
Mar 27, 2002, 12:18 PM
Post #3 of 15
(11116 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553
|
Good... Hard...
Basalt - (noun) The most common type of solidified lava; a dense dark gray fine-grained igneous rock composed chiefly of calcium-rich plagioclase feldspar and pyroxene.
|
|
|
|
|
bigevilgrape
Mar 27, 2002, 3:30 PM
Post #4 of 15
(11116 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 4, 2001
Posts: 922
|
i've never trad led on trap rock (basalt and trap rock are the same thing) but trap rock is all there is in connecticut and we have almost no sport routs, so my guess would have to be that the placements can't be too bad.
|
|
|
|
|
its_me_drew
Mar 27, 2002, 4:21 PM
Post #5 of 15
(11116 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 13, 2002
Posts: 46
|
Basalt is a very strong rock which is excellent for placing protection, its really great for trad.
|
|
|
|
|
offwidthclimber
Mar 27, 2002, 5:31 PM
Post #6 of 15
(11116 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 13, 2001
Posts: 290
|
it all depends. columnar basalt is generally pretty good for climbing cracks and placing gear. nice splitter cracks that eat up pro.
however, basalt can be choss too. there is a popular area here (frenchman coulee, washington) that has its fair share of portable handholds and crumbly edges. bolts have even been pulled out with the surrounding rock. then again, there are some pretty solid climbs at this area too.
so, anyway, long story short, it depends on the nature of the basalt. look at the fractures and weaknesses and how they occur. don't place too close the the edge of a crack if it looks as though a section could blow.
peace.
|
|
|
|
|
phylp
Mar 27, 2002, 7:15 PM
Post #7 of 15
(11116 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 3, 2001
Posts: 175
|
I've climbed trad on the basalt cracks at Smith Rocks and the gear was fabulous; also solid and secure gear at a local basalt column place I climb in Sonora, CA. But the basalt at another place I've climbed in Truckee River Canyon seemed very slick to me - and the guidbook author, Mike Carville, warns that gear can skate more easily in that area. I also found the CT traprock at Ragged very slick feeling.
So I think the answer may relate to how fine the grain is. You can feel the difference at the places I've mentioned quite easily. camming units would be more affected than nuts and hexes.
|
|
|
|
|
kman
Mar 28, 2002, 7:38 AM
Post #8 of 15
(11116 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 16, 2001
Posts: 2561
|
Offwidth...I am heading down to Frenchman Coulee next weekend. That is why I was wondering.
Thanks guys
|
|
|
|
|
apollodorus
Mar 28, 2002, 7:56 AM
Post #9 of 15
(11116 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
|
Basalt is hard, mullah stuff.
|
|
|
|
|
roadtrip
Mar 28, 2002, 9:03 AM
Post #10 of 15
(11116 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 27, 2002
Posts: 63
|
I agree with offwidthclimber, basalt varies. Devil's Postpile is basalt, and its so chossy no climbing is allowed. A good rule of thumb is to look at the debris pile at the bottom of the cliff. A large pile of debris with a fresh color(ie, light) and a lack of lichen or desert polish indicates high rockfall potential, hence bad gear placement.
|
|
|
|
|
crackaddict
Mar 28, 2002, 9:53 PM
Post #11 of 15
(11116 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2000
Posts: 1279
|
Basalt! Ahh! One of my favorite rock types to climb. Hard stuff. But friendly to the hands. Like everyone has told you excelent cracks but face climbing can have some real choss piles. The cracks offer some of the best placements for all types of gear. Here in my home state of AZ we have some of the best Basalt areas. If you ever come down let me know I will show you around.
Later.
[ This Message was edited by: crackaddict on 2002-03-28 13:55 ]
|
|
|
|
|
krustyklimber
Mar 30, 2002, 4:43 AM
Post #12 of 15
(11116 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 25, 2002
Posts: 1650
|
Kman,
Our columnar basalt is generally pretty good, takes and holds pro well (even pitons) (but only in the good layers), depending on the elevation and which lava flow (chronologically speaking) you're climbing on.
Frenchmans Coulee (Vantage) is one of our finest accessable basalt climbing areas.
He's probably on the road already so this is mostly for everyone else's benefit, If you are coming to Washington PM me or e-mail me I'll hook you up with more beta than you'll believe, there is only a small handful of our nearly 100 seperate areas that I haven't been to.
Jeff
P.S. Saying "basalt" is like saying "chocolate", there's alot of different kinds, but you did clear it up by mentioning your destination.
[ This Message was edited by: krustyklimber on 2002-03-29 20:47 ]
|
|
|
|
|
radistrad
Mar 31, 2002, 4:38 PM
Post #13 of 15
(11116 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 25, 2002
Posts: 800
|
I think Basalt is Bomber for trad.
I'v lead a few trad routes at the Grotto, near Sonora, CA. The rock is strong, the gear seemed solid.
|
|
|
|
|
ravens_wing_jim
Mar 31, 2002, 6:11 PM
Post #14 of 15
(11116 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 23, 2001
Posts: 396
|
I'm on my way, to climb Basalt today.
Because thats all we have around here.
Where is here?
Look to your left.
ummm...then look up,
then look down,
lay down,
roll over,
sit!
heal!
...heh, just kidding.
|
|
|
|
|
crackaddict
Mar 31, 2002, 10:39 PM
Post #15 of 15
(11116 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2000
Posts: 1279
|
Is'nt it.
Look up
look down
look left
look right
What the heck are you doing?
Polish neck exercises!
|
|
|
|
|
|
