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ammon
Feb 29, 2004, 1:29 AM
Post #26 of 35
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Lambone said:
In reply to: I've tried both and I prefer the traditional daisy with the adjustable fifi
Yeah, I like this way too. I usually use two traditional and will float a third (adjustable) if the route is steep.
I don't use a locker, though..... and have lost an aider because of it. But, I unclip the aider from the daisy often (to remove tangles) and don't like the time that it takes to undo the locker.
I've noticed everyone does it a bit different and has their own little tricks.
Cheers, Ammon
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timpanogos
Feb 29, 2004, 1:58 AM
Post #27 of 35
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Ammon, Lambone;
So when you guys use regular pocket daisies and an Adjustable Fifi - I'm assuming you have one adjustable fifi tied to your your harness - and you actually only use this for high stepping.
Thus you are always in your steps (or basically free climbing and clipping daisies).
Is this correct?
Chad
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ammon
Feb 29, 2004, 2:27 AM
Post #28 of 35
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No, I don't use an adjustable fifi, just a regular one.
Usually, I walk up the aider and hook my fifi into the carabiner that is clipped to the gear in the wall. I hardly ever use the loops to hook my fifi into.
Also, I don't girth the adjustable daisy that I float. I clip it to a locking carabiner when/if I need to use it. That way I can easily remove it when I don't need it anymore.
When I high-step I don't fifi'd into anything. I hold on to the same carabiner that I would fi, with one hand and place the gear with the other.
Hope this helps.
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timpanogos
Feb 29, 2004, 3:07 AM
Post #29 of 35
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Ammon,
So your fifi is tied to your harness, long enough to allow for top most stepping - like 8" or so? Or do you keep it short and unhook it as you top step (no daisy/fifi high step support at all).
Chad
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ammon
Feb 29, 2004, 10:30 PM
Post #30 of 35
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Hey Chad,
Yeah, I keep the fifi tied really short to my harness and unclip it entirely if I'm going to top step. I either hold onto the carabiner with my other hand or try and find a feature on the wall to hold onto.
The trick with high stepping is to do it fast and have the piece already attached to your daisy. Make the high step move and let your body weight the piece. Make sure your feet stay in the aider's your hanging on. If the piece blows..... well, then you don't have to test it, huh? Just crouch back onto your aider.
This is what I do, anyway. There's MANY ways to do it.
Cheers, Ammon
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timpanogos
Mar 1, 2004, 7:03 PM
Post #31 of 35
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I got a chance to try the single set of aiders (not attached to adj daisy) method yesterday – very fast, tangle free and nice! I even stayed off my adjustable fifi – let out some slack on the adj daisy and tried some Ammon – hand on gear – top most stepping on the overhung wall. I could actually reach higher than my free adjustable daisy is long. Karl’s “escalator” ride up on these placements worked very nice and well worth the two clips. I also found Karl’s method of clipping the aiders to the rap ring on the adjustable very nice for some super reachy traversal moves that allowed me to more easily clip lead and remove the previous daisy and then pull my self over/up to the new daisy placement.
I’m not sure that even a third aider would be needed for big traversals? I only did a few moves left and right, but they were very reachy moves that required pulling/pushing on features to pendy enough to make the clips. However, these were still up and over - I need to try some straight overs
Thanks guys for the tips, I’m about to cut one Yates ladder off at the 3rd step. My speed and confidence has come way up working on this wall – interested to see how it will translates over to real rock – if it ever quits snowing here!
Chad
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timpanogos
Mar 2, 2004, 3:27 PM
Post #32 of 35
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We all should have realized that an adjustable daisy only has one "pulley" and hence is only a 1:1 - however, this link gives a good example on how this actually works out to be a 2:1 advantage.
It also shows how even if you did setup a 2:1 on yourself, it would not double the load felt by the anchor.
http://www.supertopo.com/...html?m=32719&f=0&b=0
Have fun
Chad
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imnotclever
Mar 26, 2004, 1:32 PM
Post #33 of 35
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In reply to: Then I clip my adjustable daisy to that biner. .... I would suggest reaching down (or over) and clipping the daisy from the last piece to the aiders and moving them to the next placement. Peace Karl
Thanks for the info, I can see how the "Baba way" reduces clutter. One more question for you. Do you clip your aiders into the daisy biner, and live with losing 3" a time, or into the piece and just live with the biner shift?
Thanks to everyone for your responses.
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timpanogos
Mar 26, 2004, 3:14 PM
Post #34 of 35
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Make sure you have a nice keyless binner on your aiders - In my last few outings, I've found that I can usually always clip the piece - even though I'm weighting it with the daisy.
Surprisingly I've found it easier to clip hook slings (and mine are tied very short) than small HB brassy wires - whos loops pull very tight when weighted. But in both of these cases, I've typically been able to clip the aiders under the daisy - thus having a better weighted position (in closer to rock) when you end up high stepping on the thing. This also reduces the binner shift a bit - but you still get it - yee haw - half the fun.
Of course cams are an easly clip to piece - once again - what's a little binner shift verses lossing that 3"?
Only really freaks me when it waits for those high steping moments to shift. I typically talk to mine at that point. Instant eye to piece focus with HEY what the fecth are you doing there?
Chad
Chad
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karlbaba
Mar 26, 2004, 3:16 PM
Post #35 of 35
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In general, I deal with biner shift. It's not too bad since I clip one aider to another, so there's only the daisy biner and the aider biner.
On some pieces, there are two places to clip in, the biner on the cam sling and the cable. I can clip the daisy to one and the aiders to the other. SInce the piece is unweighted when I remove the daisy and aiders, it doesn't matter which gets clipped where except in what configuration helps me stand higher int he aiders
If the next placement is reachy, i try to mazimize reach, if not, I go for efficiency. I usually clip the aiders and daisy to a free biner on the piece.
Peace
karl
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