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pawilkes
May 15, 2004, 6:14 AM
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i am finally getting over a broken knee but my epic is more of a blurb compaired to yours. i have found that the knee injury isn't that big of a deal to climbing but it takes longer to be able to do the approaches, which by the sounds of it is a big part of climbing. good luck with the healing.
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fullofit
May 15, 2004, 6:17 AM
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It's nice to know that you have time to post to community before (during, or after?) your 'wild ride' at 1705. Now that's true talent...
Best wishes for a speedy recovery, my hero.
mtngeo
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Location: Leadville, CO; elevation 10,420 feet.
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Posted: Sat May 08, 2004 5:05 pm Post subject: Re: Random s!@* everyone should know Part 1 of many
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actually, the connection to general hooker is well documented history.
here's an origin (also presumably based on historical fact) that has amused me for years:
back in the day of the wooden ship known as a man 'o war, the main defensive/offensive weapon used against another vessel was the cannon.
the cannon shot (cannon balls) were stored at the ready in racks that consisted of two parallel brass rails, with a rail to rail measurement slightly less that the size of the shot.
during especially cold weather, the shot -- being spherical -- would sometimes contract enough so as to fall out from between the rails of the storage rack.
the rack was known as a brass monkey.
and so was born the phase ... "cold enough t freeze the balls off a brass monkey."
_________________
"maui ... i'll bet it's warm in maui ..."
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kalcario
May 15, 2004, 6:23 AM
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what leaps out at me from reading this story:
father of 5 and 8 year old sons jumars on 3 knifeblades in vertical cracks in frost-riven choss
wonder how many people responding to this post have actually zipped people into body bags or tried to console bereaved relatives
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fullofit
May 15, 2004, 6:25 AM
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Oh, and I'm even MORE impressed that you were on the operating table at 1900, sunday, and were able to post on rc.com coherently an hour later... sheese... what vitamins are YOU taking?
mtngeo
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Location: Leadville, CO; elevation 10,420 feet.
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Posted: Sun May 09, 2004 8:14 pm Post subject: Re: I love you. I'll kill you.
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lambone wrote:
cool...
just one question, why carry a Beacon if you are soloing?
just good manners. if the worst were to happen, i would want the mountain rescue guys to be able to locate my body without undue fuss.
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"maui ... i'll bet it's warm in maui ..."
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socalclimber
May 15, 2004, 6:27 AM
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Hey Geo,
Glad your ok. I have a quick question/observation, do you think there is a chance the cracks you placed pins in for your belay may have been expando????
Just a thought.
Get well soon!
Robert
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curt
May 15, 2004, 6:40 AM
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In reply to: what leaps out at me from reading this story: father of 5 and 8 year old sons jumars on 3 knifeblades in vertical cracks in frost-riven choss wonder how many people responding to this post have actually zipped people into body bags or tried to console bereaved relatives
I thought too about questioning the quality of the knifeblade anchor, but decided not to because I am not an asshole and I was not there at the time. Were you?
Curt
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coldclimb
May 15, 2004, 6:50 AM
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Man Geo, quite the story for the grandkids! :shock: :shock: :shock: Glad you're still around to tell about it!
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epic_ed
May 15, 2004, 7:51 AM
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You're right, Joe. Any of us who something to live for should stop climbing immediately. Guess you'll be one of the few left out there at the crags.
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bobd1953
May 15, 2004, 12:57 PM
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In reply to: You're right, Joe. Any of us who something to live for should stop climbing immediately. Guess you'll be one of the few left out there at the crags.
I don't think Joe was thinking that. I think he was wondering why, with so much experience did George placed those pins and put himself in that position. After trad-climbing climbing for 34 years and setting numerous anchors, I know a bad one.
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timstich
May 15, 2004, 1:45 PM
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So that's why you aren't out at 11-Mile? Ha! Man, quite an experience on alpine choss. It's funny how I have to come here to read this stuff since our mutual pals kept it quiet. Obviously if it had been worse they would have mentioned it. That would explain why we didn't see you in Eldo last weekend, too. And it is great about how advanced knee surgury has become. My friend Dan got fixed up months ago and is probably still training hard for the summer alpine season.
Take care and hope to see you real soon.
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deleted
Deleted
May 15, 2004, 2:30 PM
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[quote:79d2663efd="fullofit"]It's nice to know that you have time to post to community before (during, or after?) your 'wild ride' at 1705. Now that's true talent...[/quote:79d2663efd]
[quote:79d2663efd="fullofit"]Oh, and I'm even MORE impressed that you were on the operating table at 1900, sunday, and were able to post on rc.com coherently an hour later... sheese... what vitamins are YOU taking?[/quote:79d2663efd]
sorry for the confusion. at first i didn't know what you were getting at, but then i went back and re-read my post. my exam in vail and my surgery were on [i:79d2663efd]monday[/i:79d2663efd]. i spent sunday here at home in a knee brace and on pain meds. i have edited my post to reflect that.
if you wish, please pm shorty. i was in contact with him at various times throughout the day on monday, as i asked him to send out a number of pm's for me.
as for coherency ... i agree, i'd like to have some of those vitamins. :wink:
if you wish for full confirmation of my story, i'd be more than glad to fax you my pre- and post-op reports (complete with pictures :lol: ).
regards,
geo
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tgreene
May 15, 2004, 2:49 PM
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maui ... i'll bet you wish you were in maui ...
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charley
May 15, 2004, 2:56 PM
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Great report.
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pornstarr
May 15, 2004, 3:01 PM
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Sounds like you were ON THE BUS!!!
glad all is ok GEO!!
be good at it ;)
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dredsovrn
May 15, 2004, 3:03 PM
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Glad to hear you made it. A harrowing tale. Thanks for sharing it. Your story certainly emphasises the importance of being prepared for self rescue. If you are going to stick it out there, be prepared to haul it back in on your own. I wish you a speedy recovery.
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climbinganne
May 15, 2004, 3:22 PM
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whew...geo
i'm so thankful you're alive!!
now, lets get you better
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karlbaba
May 15, 2004, 3:45 PM
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Great report and glad you made it!
Alpine climbing is naturally chossier and with that come dangers that are harder to assess. That said, for me, the bottom line is:
When the epic fairy comes looking for you, that's it! You take the trip with her.
Pretty dang "coincidental" that you should look up at the very second your anchor pulled so you could witness it!
There are accidents but there are no accidents
peace
Karl
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vulgarian
May 15, 2004, 4:25 PM
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"... leaving all my pins behind"
BOOTY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :D
Glad you're here to write it.
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timstich
May 15, 2004, 4:27 PM
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[quote="vulgarian"]In reply to: leaving all my pins behind quote] BOOTY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :D Glad you're here to write it.
Ha ha ha! Yeah. A whole $20 worth at least. Well, they were probably used anyway. "Three pitons. Used once."
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brittamac
May 15, 2004, 4:47 PM
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geo - following so close on the heels of your last TR, I'm glad you are on the road to recovery. Bet you'll have cool scars to show your boys.
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taorock
May 15, 2004, 5:09 PM
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Geo,
Your self rescue is in the best tradition - congratulations. It shows how deep we can go.
I know that in some of my own alpine experiences (a lot of them in your neck of the woods) that the only reason I'm alive now is that my hearing was unimpared. For instance, being able to hear rockfall and to react in a timely fashion. It stikes me odd that you climb with music. For myself, I'd feel like it would be the equivalent of blinders. On the other hand it sounds like it is motivational for you are helps with your rythm.
Sort of related; in Amber's account of her fall I was struck by the distraction of two way radio's. Maybe I'm too oldschool and feel that a lot of these modern devices detract from real communication and encumber us more than help us.
Anyhow, thanks for the great TR. I still hope to visit you someday in my former hometown of Leadville. Hopefully I'll make it through there this summer. I heard there is some booty to be had up on Twin peak :lol:
Brent
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redpointron
May 15, 2004, 5:25 PM
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geo...
based on these past two trip reports, i am starting to think you made need to revert back to your former, seemingly safer, pursuit...marine corps helo pilot. good to hear that you are on the mend...
and take care of yourself...i can't miracle myself up birdbrain. :wink:
r.r.
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voltzwgn
May 15, 2004, 6:11 PM
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Glad it turned out so well, the drive to survive worked well for you. That and having the knowledge to get yourself out of the mess. I just last week signed up for another self rescue class. I've taken one before but not having practiced what I learned much at this point I know the theory but couldn't impliment it without a fair amount of work. As I hope to get outside a lot this year I figure it's time to brush up and practice skills on a regular basis.
This episode points out the importance of not only being able to get yourself up and down the rock, but the ability to get yourself out of trouble should you find yourself on lady luck's bad side.
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ginerbiner
May 15, 2004, 6:48 PM
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Geo, baby, I can't wait to meet your pretty legs!!! I'm so glad you're still in this crazy wilderness of ours. Your guardian angel must have been your partner that day :angel:
Great account of your epic.
:idea: Say, if you rework your account for more "general readership," it would be a great addition to our collection of stories being considered for our book for charity. See VIEW THIS WEBSITE for details. :idea:
Happy you're still kicking!!!
Peace, Gina :P
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May 15, 2004, 7:09 PM
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jeez, people ... like i said at the beginning, i wasn't looking to get any sunshine blown up my skirt, but thank you for your well wishes just the same.
i just noticed i failed to address a point made by fullofit concerning my having been logged on and having posted in community following my incident.
by the time i'd driven back to town i was feeling much better over all. i mean, i took a significant fall and was lucky to have limped away with a bum knee -- i'll take that any day. so, although my initial intent was to go to the emergency room, i started second guessing myself on the drive in. by the time i got to town i'd decided to stop at the house, clean up and further assess the damage. so that's just what i did.
i made some coffee, answered some emails while waiting for the esspreso to bubble out and logged on to my favorite climbing website. in short order, however, i decided that since my knee hadn't stopped bleeding, perhaps i should get it looked at after all.
the other reason i stopped at home is somewhat embarrassing (god knows i take enough flak from my climbing partners for it), but i'll share anyway. fifteen years in the marines made a stickler for personal appearance (as i believe even [i:e042ed73dd]fullofit[/i:e042ed73dd] can attest), and i wanted to clean up a bit and tuck in my shirt before beeng seen at the hospital. go ahead ... laugh if you will.
anyway ... i think some of you are losing sight of something, and that is (i'll say it again) i really wasn't that badly injured. sure, i felt like hell the next day because my knee looked like a small cantaloupe; i felt as if i'd been thrown down several flights of stairs; and i was stoned out of my mind ... i was mostly fine.
the whole thing about heroism absolutely doesn't apply here. not in the [i:e042ed73dd]least[/i:e042ed73dd]. it's not like i should have had my severely broken body strapped in a litter but instead dragged myself to safety. i assure you i'm no joe simpson.
i tumbled 50', slid another 75-100' and was fortunate to have a relatively easy time getting back to my gear and off the route.
it was an exciting day and made for a fun story, and that's about it.
to kalcario -- yes, i am the father of two young boys (and their 3-year-old sister), but the responsibility argument doesn't always apply. we could open an old can of worms and argue about the selfishness of climbing, but nothing has ever been resolved by doing so. my boys climb (as will their sister, im certain) and they love it. it is a wonderful lifestyle i hope they'll embrace for the rest of their days.
as for your concern about my jugging on three knifeblades ... the pins were classically solid: they went in the requisite depth and rang true as they were being hammered in. i've driven iron thousands of times. if i'd driven them into mostly ice, they would not have rung properly. bottom line? to the best of my judgement it was a patent anchor.
to bobd -- you wrote: "why, with so much experience did George placed those pins and put himself in that position. After trad-climbing climbing for 34 years and setting numerous anchors, I know a bad one."
which just goes to show that sometimes the finger of fate overrides good judgement. if i'd thought it were less than bomber i would have taken steps to make it better.
we all have our own upper limit for commitment, bob. i would never in my wildest dreams even [i:e042ed73dd]consider[/i:e042ed73dd] some of the lines you've done. but i certainly wouldn't impugn [i:e042ed73dd]your[/i:e042ed73dd] judgement for having done so.
finally ... again, to fullofit (a woman, by the way, with whom i'm intimately acquainted; who obviously carries a personal grudge; and who evidently wants to air some dirty laundry) ... the timelines of my visits to the emergency department here, and my day and night in the ortho clinic have been well documented by persons without a vested interest in whether or not i shared this. again, i extend my offer to fax you the reports, along with contact persons and phone numbers, for your perusal. perhaps i can save you a trip down the wrong road. :wink:
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